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Found 11 results

  1. In an odd moment or two, I though there would be a better way to make a jig for box joints rather than the jump over a spacer version that you can use on a router table or table saw with dado blade. I figured if I made a jig with a bunch of guides of the same width and just ran a zero-clearance router bearing router bit down each side, I'd get well-matching finger joints. With that in mind, I cobbled the jig below. Ripped a piece of maple and glued it together, offsetting each side. Stop block at the end and just a piece in the middle to hold it down. You can do two adjacent sides i
  2. Put the hardware on the totes this morning. One each for two of my grandsons and one for me. Roughly based on Frank Klausz's article in PopWood a few years ago, with lots of thing to be decided by the builder (only went from rough dimensions, and a note that if he made another, he'd make it smaller). and a picture or two. https://cdn.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/YourFirstToolkit.pdf Around the edges are spots for screwdrivers, awls, chisels, nail sets, pencils, etc. Inside is a removable till for whatever and can be centered, or pushed to front or back. Real
  3. Had a pile of scraps from the last projects. Some of the wider ones needed ripped down a bit for width, as the tablesaw only goes so high... One board had "issues" Bandsaw removed most of the bad stuff... Which left a few good pieces.. I cut the skinny one in half. Set up the zero clearance plywood panel, and then the fence to cut about 1/2" thick slices... Which left a mess of 1/4" thick stuff (0.290" thick)..as opposed to these 0.445" thick parts.. Most of these two stacks were less then flat....leaned a bit from the fenc
  4. What the title says. Wasn't without some troubles, but..made a start. had some "Project Boards" from Lowes...supposed to be Pine, seems closer to Poplar... Decided to pick out the best 2, and build a box....1/2" x 6" x 24" boards. Issues? Well, that Stanley #358 mitre box had a problem... test cut in the new location showed this to be a "Weeble Saw" Wobbled all over the place in the cut. Pull the saw out, turned the frame over...not only the King bolt was loose, so were the knurled bolts that hold the guides in place...torqued them down as tight as I cou
  5. OK, OK, I'll start it. How do you make them? I've made some using an IncraJig and a router table with a straight bit. These worked well. I can probably make them with my SOB dovetail joining jig, but it's so complex, it makes my head hurt every time I use it . There was a video a couple of years ago about how to set up a guide on a table saw and dado blade. I used it once and it worked well and with little fussing. The idea was you set up an auxiliary miter gauge fence with a key that just fits the cut. Then use that key to offset the fe
  6. I think this was a project that I got done during the blitz last year. Wife's sewing machine (well one of 8) is the one she takes out every week to a "sewing bee." It's a Singer Featherweight, ca. 1940 and is light and compact. Does a great job on basic straight stitches. Anyway, the old case was getting a bit ratty, so I made her a new one. One admonition, "Don't make it too heavy." So I ended using 3/8" q/s white oak. I tried doing box joints on the corners by my dado blade was not a true, even amount. And by the time I'd made 30 cuts, it had trouble aligning. You
  7. to quell or to add fuel to the fire er discussion what do you guys say... is this a box joint or a finger joint or both??? and this one.. finger joint only???
  8. Hi I am new here buy want to use this site for info on wood working. I want to start using box joints for some small boxes I want to build. I plan on using my table saw. with a sled Want to be able to do 1/4" and 3/8" joints. So here is my questions. How do I tell which size opening I need to use. Related to the width of the wood. All the videos I have watched no body says a thing about how they came up with the proper spacing on the last cut. Jeff
  9. Ok, I have four pieces of 3/8" thick pine.....all nicely sized, and planed smooth... All have been planed to the same sizes. Part of this project is to serve as a how to......at least the way I hand cut box joints/finger joints. The 2 longs are up, first. Square a line on one end, showing the thickness of the mating part.. Top line is from laying the short side piece and marking a line, lower one is with a square. Next, I get out the "layout tool"... Yep, just the same chisel I will use to chop out the waste with.. Spacing is just a pencil li
  10. Nothing exciting just sharing what is on my bench and what is going. I am trying to teach myself woodworking and hand craft. The attached photos are of box joints I am hand cutting. The box joint will be used in a drawer I am making for my table saw to catch the saw dust. In addition to this box joints, I had to make a jug to hold the work. Further, I sharpened up my tools. It is amazing how easy things are when tools are sharp. I sharpened my chisels to 2,000 grit wet-dry.
  11. Think your dovetail and box joints won't come apart? My study of antiques says otherwise. But I have a solution to lock your dovetails and box joints permanently.This is my favorite woodworking tip and technique of all time. I hope you enjoy the video and find it helpful. I am looking forward to hearing feedback on experience and observations of these joints. Your friend in the shop-Todd A. Clippinger
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