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Found 10 results

  1. Okay, so my wood bowl finish has already begun to congeal and it wont be long before it goes bad entirely. I got some good use of it while it lasted. Oh well, I'll have to order more at some point. How ever I still have a ton of boiled linseed oil left. I've heard rumors that the stuff tends to rot because it is a plant based product made from crushing plant seeds. How ever I'm wondering if any of you had any problems with it via turning pens and using it as a finish. Thanks.
  2. My wife and a good friend have a birthday coming soon and I wanted to make them something different/special. The 3/8” thick tray sides are splayed 20 degrees with box joints. The splayed box joints are inspired from a project in a 2009 Woodsmith magazine. The woods are walnut and cherry. The finish is (1) coat BLO and (2) coats clear shellac. Thanks for looking. Danl
  3. TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that help it cure faster, in days. Tung oil has a mystique about it (probably due to promotional literature*). It is more difficult to use, takes more days to dry between coats (and if you don’t, you have to strip and start over), needs sanding between coats, and requires five to seven coats. In my opinion, there’s little reason to use it. “Oil Finishes” cure just like varnish – they absorb oxygen and cross link. There are also a handful of "polymerized oils" -- those heated in an oxygen free environment. This starts the polymerization and these can resemble varnishes. The other “Oil Finishes” Unless it’s really labeled 100% tung oil or boiled linseed oil, you are getting one of the oil look-alikes* One type is simply the wiping (thinned) varnish discussed in the last topic. The other type is an oil-varnish blend. Oil and (oil-based) varnishes are quite miscible and manufacturers, or you, can combine them in any proportion, and thin then with mineral spirits to any amount. You will find these labeled things like Tung Oil Finish*, Danish Oil*, Teak Oil*, <namebrand>-Oil*, or just about anything. Waterlox is a fine product, but if you read through the dozens of web pages, they will usually refer to it to as “tung oil finish.” In one obscure spot, it does confess, “what we make is a varnish.”(1) You can buy an oil-varnish finish, and never be quite sure what you’re getting. Or you can mix your own. The time-honored “secret recipe” is equal parts varnish, BLO, and mineral spirts. You can also buy an off-the-shelf product and change its proportions by adding varnish, BLO, or mineral spirits in any proportion. For example, you can fortify up a Watco Danish Oil by adding some varnish. The higher proportion of varnish, the more you will get a bit of a film finish. (this is what I did when I was in my novice, confused, deer-in-the-headlights, starting out phase of finishing) So, how do you tell what you have? Linseed and (100%) tung oil are generally labeled correctly. It if contains “resins” or thinners like mineral spirits, aliphatic hydrocarbons*, etc., it’s probably one of the imposters. A good way to tell is to put a puddle on some smooth surface like a piece of glass. You will see one of three results: The finish remains soft and lots of wrinkles - it’s an oil The finish is smooth and hard – it’s a wiping varnish The finish is smooth in the middle and wrinkled at the edges – it’s an oil-varnish blend and the more wrinkles the higher proportion of oil. Last I checked (and it’s undergone many owners, mergers and acquisitions along the years), Watco Danish Oil was approximately. (from the MSDS) 6/9 (=2/3) mineral spirits or other evaporating thinners providing nothing to the final finish 2/9 BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) 1/9 Varnish (trace amounts of coloring if not in the natural color) So it’s not very heavy in the varnish component and heavy in the thinners. Below are some samples. Note that the BLO is still soft after 7 years of being on this glass. How to apply Applying an oil or oil-varnish finish is dead easy. Get it on with rag or brush, let set up for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. The more varnish in the oil-varnish blend, the faster it will tack up and the sooner you need to wipe. Don’t leave much on the surface – this is not designed to be a film-forming finish, and if you leave too much, you’ll just end up with a soft and wrinkly finish like shown in the slide above (2). On porous woods, like oak, you may experience “bleed back” where as the finish cures it bubbles back out of the pores. The cure for this is to wipe for every few hours after the initial wipe. And apply a bit less the next coat. Provide the finish in an area with fresh air and room temperature. Between coats, you can sand with a fine (600 grit) wet or dry sandpaper to smooth the surface, then apply the next coat as the first. Usually, 3-4 coats are plenty. These are good finishes if you are doing a quick project with a child. It is very important that you take the rags you use outside and spread out to dry. The oil in oil finishes will heat as they cure, and the more heat the faster they cure, creating a chain reaction of more and more heat to the point where they can spontaneously combust, starting a fire. The result The result should be a smooth, in the wood finish. While it looks nice, it has minimal protection against water and water vapor presentation (3). It will also not be very protective against dirt and abrasion. So it would be fine for a product that does not need a lot of protection – bookshelves, artwork, boxes, etc. Not so good for dining tables with kids, handrails, chair arms. Some woods will darken/amber with an oil finish. Here is a “Keeping box” I made a few years ago. Two coats of BLO, four afternoons on the back patio and I had 10 years of patina in a week. Top coated with a couple of coats of blond shellac for sheen and protection. After a few years, an oil finish may start to look dull. Easy enough to fix – clean, lightly sand if you wish, and apply another coat. This can also conceal some superficial scratches. More reading (4-7) References and notes (1) https://waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=55d7f899-9e95-430b-9788-6ee59ed27e30&q= (2) Tales from the repair guy: A few years ago, I got a call to refinish some teak furniture that the owner had religiously “teak oiled” annually. The result was a soft, sticky mess, full of link, hair and fingerprints. Not too surprising, she built up a thick coat of soft oil (probably linseed). I stripped and refinished it. When I returned it, she asked how often she needed to re-apply the teak oil. I told her, “Never again.” (3) USFPL Wood Handbook, Chapter 16: Finishing of Wood, https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100 (4) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use (5) http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/choosing-best-wood-finish (6) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil (7) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/teak-oil-oil-doesnt-exist
  4. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    Finished and ready for delivery. My go to finishing schedule for most of my flat work is water based dyes for color, followed by a coat of boiled linseed oil, then oil based varnish. I still love the warmth and glow of oil based varnishes, it has a warmth that I love.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  5. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    Young Patriot Woodworkers, they are not ready to see this one leave our shop. As with any project that takes time, it becomes part of the family, and the kids always hate to see it leave the shop.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  6. John Morris

    Walnut Rocker Finish

    From the album: Walnut Rocking Chair

    The grain really pops in these chairs when the first coat of oil is applied.
  7. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    The cabinet in place at its final resting place, with pewter molds in place. You'll see the tails are cut into the side of the cabinet and exposed, I set the tails on the side of the cabinet to lend it downward strength, the mechanics of the joinery will not allow any weight to push down and separate the corners.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  8. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    In place at a home where the resident loves colonial works, and this piece fit right in.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  9. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    The customers pewter molds on full display. The pewter molds are one area of his vast collections of antique in his home. These molds were used to make breads, bread puddings, and puddings, in the shape of the molds.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  10. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    The curls are wonderful in this lumber, thank you Bob Kloes.

    © Courtland Woodworks

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