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Showing results for tags 'band saw'.
Found 20 results
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New to the site and hopefully I am posting this in the right forum. I have a 12" craftsman band saw, 1/2 hp. I don't do a lot of serious band saw work but do build self bows. I find that this saw is a little lacking when I try to cut red oak that's 1" thick and 36" long, very slow and getting a lot of burnt wood. Question: Can I up the HP or do I need a new blade (got the blades with the saw 6 months ago) or both? 2nd issue. Have 2 B&D 1/4" routers that I use once or twice a year for small jobs. My issue, I only have 1 and half of the collets that hold tension on the cutter shaft. Have searched the internet till I am blue and cannot find one. Are there substitutes available? See pictures Note: I am 75 and can't see myself spending a lot of money for a new router for as little use as it gets. just need a collet Thanks in advance for any help with either of the 2 issues.
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As you know, I've had to end my woodworking days because of age issues. I've been offered $800,00 for the Laguna 14/12 bandsaw- I feel it is a low offer. Just wondering what everyone thinks. Selling it is difficult, but I know I won't be using it again myself.
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I'm looking for advice and suggestions about how and where to sell. Do I refurbish, all or partial? What about shipping away from my location? How to price? I have my father's woodshop equipment bought in 1948 (have original invoices). Includes table saw, scroll saw, band saw, shaper, wood lathe, grinder, drill press, and belt sander, located in Washington State.
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I am experiencing very rapid dulling of standard band saw blades during the resawing of the blanks for the ceiling tiles in the media room so I decided to try a carbide blade. I just installed it and did a few test cuts. It seems to cut at about the same feed rate of a brand new standard blade when resawing the 7” black walnut. It definitely leaves a better surface on the cut. The kerf is slightly wider but not nearly as wide as I expected. The plus side so far is that the band itself is much heavier gauge and therefore able to take more tension. The cost is about 3-4 times a regular blade so the big question will be how long it will last. I still have quite a few to resaw. On the plus side they are resharpenable at least 2-3 times. Paul
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While I was working on my boat last weekend I had to run over and use my sons shop and while I was there I noticed he was setting the drift on his band saw blade/fence and using a tool I have never seen. It’s made by Carter and it works very well. I brought it home to try it and it makes for very fast and accurate alignment of the fence to the blade drift. Really beats my old method of making a trial cut and then adjusting the fence. Paul -
Thought some might find this interesting.
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The last couple days I've been firing up the old SS for some multi tasking. One thing I noticed is that the accessories -- band saw, jointer, and disk sander use a rather large dust collection device -- the floor. And my pants and shoes. Back in the day, very few tools incorporated any kind of dust collection capabilities and SS was no exception. I've got a Delta band saw that has a dust port but 90% of the dust gets scattered, an oscillating spindle sander with none, and I remember the old Delta and Craftsman "contractor" table saws that just dumped the sawdust out the bottom. Even my Unisaw just has a tray at the bottom tilted to dump the dust out the side I fitted a box around the opening and connected up to a dust port, but ended up with pants full of sawdust yesterday coming out the arch for the blade tilt mechanism.
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This past Sunday I ordered the Shop Fox Mini Base for my Grizzly G0555 Band Saw. I have had my band saw up on casters for years, and it's always been a tad high. The casters are about 3" tall, so the band saw is kind of a good fit for a 6' tall woodworker at this point, I am only 5'-9". Also when pushing material through the resaw blade, the band saw wants to walk and rock a bit because of the height of the casters, so am hoping the low profile mobile base will stabilize the saw. I should be getting it this Thursday, I'll let ya all know how it feels and works! -
For years have been snagging clothes and apron on the pin on Grizzly BS that keeps the table flat. Have made two new pins and today got an idea to never have that problem again. I made a new pin from all thread and then got a piece of oak from scrap bin and drilled a hole and threaded on .
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"Back From The Archives " I wasn't looking for another project, I already have to many machines in que for restoration, but I received a phone call from my friend Andy the other night. He told me that someone had just listed a huge band saw for a hundred bucks on the classifieds, so I called the owner right away and told him I'd take it and I would be there Saturday to pick it up. I figured if it was in rough shape I could scrap it for that much. The saw is a 36 incher, in rough but mostly complete shape. It's made by Enterprise MFG. Co. Here is a picture of the badge. Strange that no serial number was ever stamped on it. I did a little research and didn't find much info on them. The Vintage Machinery site states that Enterprise Manufacturing Company was established in 1878 and was later changed to The Enterprise Company in 1913. They made sawmills and engines, but I could find no info about them ever making band saws. I thought maybe they just rebadged the machine, which was common practice back in the day, but I looked at every single 36 inch band saw on the Vintage Machinery site and couldn't find another one, nothing even similar to this one. The saw is heavy duty and very well made. I'm guess the weight around 1400 lbs. The bottom wheel is solid cast iron and weighs about 200 pounds, the table top just a little less but not much. The blade guard, small table, and weight for the blade tension can be seen leaning against the saw at the bottom of this pic It's hard to judge the size of the machine from the pics but the guide column is 1 1/2 inch solid steel and the cast iron wheel to adjust the column up and down is 8 inches. One thing that I found to be cool is they used a lot of cast bronze or brass in the machine. It will look great all cleaned up and polished. The long handle you can see in front of the wheel to adjust the blade tension is solid brass and is used to adjust the tilt of the upper wheel. A shot from below shows the trunnions, which are in great shape, and the hand wheel to adjust the table tilt. The tilt scale is also brass and a 1/4 inch thick. It took about 2 hours to get the machine stripped down to a manageable weight so I could get it off the trailer. No access to a fork lift this time so it was unloaded using a cherry picker and a pallet jack. The next pics were taken by my daughter,who picked up the photography bug from me … she does a great job. My wife and I getting the saw up in the air. Getting the saw down the steep slope into my shop with the help of my step dad and my wife, who is always willing to help me out when restoring a machine. Working hands The babbitt bearings are in descent shape but I think I will repour them. The lower blade guard is missing, along with the levers to move the flat belt from the idler pulley to the drive pulley. The worse thing is the upper wheel has a crack in it across the rim, thank god it wasn't on the hub, but I think I've come up with a way to fix it. If not, I will be looking for a replacement. Oh, I also picked up a nice 5 hp 3 phase Westinghouse motor to power it Thanks for looking. I will post the restoration pics when I get it done. Shane -
I inherited this beauty from my uncle, who inherited it from my grandfather, who I believe bought it new. All i know of it so far is it is a Duro desktop band saw. I am planning to do a total restoration on it, and need some advice on how to approach prepping the cover for primer and paint. I may have access to a soda blaster to gently remove the small amount of paint, and surfact corrosion, but if not i need to know how to properly removed the age without damageing the cast iron. I want to return make this back into a working piece, and so will be doing a full disasemble and repair/replacment of needed parts. Does anyone know of a parts guide or owners manual that may exist for these old units? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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From the album: Gene's Stuff
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bandsaw box for a friend. last names starts with W. Cherry with Wenge accent. top is held on by 4 little barrel magnets, so you can display it this way on a shelf if you wish.
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A couple winters ago, I made my neighbor and his wife an "initial plaque" because of his help blowing out our driveway all winter. I just made set number four for folks we know, and I thougt I would share some of my crazy design and build techniques for those who may want to venture into abstract things. Here's two images of what I'm talking about. Then I'll describe the steps for your consideration. The first image shows the front side of the initials plaque. All three initial are raised, using a 1/2"diameter x 3/4" long dowel stanchions recessed into the initials using a Forstner bit, 1/16" deep. There are no plans. Ever. I just grab some 1/4" plywood and sketch some initials on it. Three rules. The last name initial is always the biggest. The man's first name initial is always second. And.. The woman's first name initial is always first. (What's new?) Each initial is hand drawn and rough cut out on the bandsaw. Proportions are somewhat important here to ensure a nice looking result. Then, using the proper size Forstner bits, cut each small corner where the initial "curves" meet to ensure a nice smooth arc. Then, using a small diameter drum sander in your drill press, finish sand the piece prior to painting. I use three different colors of latex paint. Colors your choice. Image two shows the backside of the plaque. The top two stanchions have holes in them to hang the plaque on nails. The bottom one on the "C" is a stabilizer with no hole. The bottom, tapered pin on the "S"is another stabilizer. I like to "stagger" the initials using the spacer pin locations to maximize the exposure to each initial. This kind of project will embrace your creative "juices' to the point where you can make just about any design you want. Have fun! Larry
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I recently acquired a slightly used Craftsman BAS350 14" band saw. It is the same saw as the Rikon 10-321 band saw. It is equipped with a one horse power motor and a very nicely machined cast iron table with a rip capacity opening of 8.5". I got a 5/8" 3TPI blade and ran some firewood pieces through it to make turning blanks and was very pleased with the performance. It has a 2" dust port below the blade and a 4" port at the bottom of the lower wheel. I connected a dust collector to the 4" port with great results and see no need to hook up the two inch port. With the 4" port hooked up air was being sucked into the 2" port effectively sucking any dust the 2" port might have yielded. I really liked the idea of blowing the dust out into the back yard. No muss no fuss. The red knob on top of the saw is the blade adjustment knob. It is easily removed which is a nice feature. Once the tension is released the knob can be removed and laid in plain sight on the table as a reminder that the blade needs tensioned before using. It has roller blade guides which are bearings mounted to adjustable pins. One of the bearings was making noise so I oiled it. I got the number off of it to see about getting some spares and found they are inline skate wheel bearings which makes them readily available. In fact, I had bought a set of cheap skates to use the wheels to make a lathe steady and had five extra wheels I could get the bearings out of. I did and sure enough they were the same. All in all, I am happy with the saw.
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Simple survey. What should be the next tool band saw or bench drill press? If it's band saw, bench top or floor model? My primary source of wood are old pallets. my next big project will be a long book case with doors and offset shelves -
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I am looking for a set of guides that would be an upgrade from what I have now, which is just the stock roller guides for my Grizz 14" Ultimate Bandsaw. I have folks say they love the freeze blocks, and then there are some nice bearing guides too. My saw is this one at http://www.grizzly.com/products/The-Ultimate-14-Bandsaw/G0555?utm_campaign=zPage A 14" with riser block. Does anyone have any recommendations for a new guide set? Thanks! -
Laguna Tools is one our biggest donors to our charity events for the veterans projects we are involved in. Laguna Tools, owners Catherine Helshoj and Torben Helshoj, are both dedicated to the men and women who have served our nation. We are very fortunate to have them by our side in all we do. Please support Laguna Tools with your purchases, as they support us, and our veterans.
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A few years back, I received a huge chunk of Gaboon Ebony. It originally weighed in around 60 pounds. Over the years I've cut small sections off for trim, pen blanks, etc (at the most, 3/4 inch thickness per cut). For my current project, I ripped two 6 in wide boards, using the band saw with a 3/4" blade. About a 1/2 inch into the cut, sparks began to fly. As the cut progressed I began to wonder if I was grinding metal versus cutting wood. Upon inspection, there is no metal in the wood, that can be seen. A friend suggested that its the density of the ebony that causes the sparks. Before I ripped the 2nd boards I took time to clean up all the sawdust, just in case. The second rip did the same thing only the sparks were immediate. Is this normal? There's no burn marks in the wood and no sign of any metal. The sparks lasted throughout both cuts, so it wasn't like hitting a nail or other object. I cant replicate it with any other type of wood. I later ripped oak, walnut, and poplar with no sparks. .
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Actually, I just need an opinion. I have this older Craftsman benchtop band saw and I'm curious of it's age. Take a look at the photos and tell me what you think. Oh yeah, it is for sale, maybe.
