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Found 21 results

  1. I have been meaning to build a table around my band saw for some time. Tonight was the night. It was hot, but I decided to go into the shop and knock it out. I need to cut up some logs to get the blanks so I can finish the apples that have to be turned. I also got an order last night from the First Friday show for a Chess Board so I need to do some re-sawing. Cut out the table slot and routed the miter slot. Added plywood legs and just clamped it under the table. I made it so I can take it down and store in the corner and not lose a lot of shop floor space. Here with my re-saw jig. Now I have support in the front to start the cut and support in the back so I don't drop it as it goes off the table. Just glad to have this one off my ToDo list. John
  2. Anybody know why my band saw likes to burn wood? I am cutting 1 1/2 inch oak. I am using a 1/4 inch blade. Am I using too many teeth? Not sure of the TPI on the blade but I've attached a picture. Never had this problem with re-saw, only cutting a pattern. Any help much appreciated.
  3. I found these videos interesting. Hope you all like them, too. Number two. The restoration.
  4. "Back From The Archives " I wasn't looking for another project, I already have to many machines in que for restoration, but I received a phone call from my friend Andy the other night. He told me that someone had just listed a huge band saw for a hundred bucks on the classifieds, so I called the owner right away and told him I'd take it and I would be there Saturday to pick it up. I figured if it was in rough shape I could scrap it for that much. The saw is a 36 incher, in rough but mostly complete shape. It's made by Enterprise MFG. Co. Here is a picture of the badge. Strange that no serial number was ever stamped on it. I did a little research and didn't find much info on them. The Vintage Machinery site states that Enterprise Manufacturing Company was established in 1878 and was later changed to The Enterprise Company in 1913. They made sawmills and engines, but I could find no info about them ever making band saws. I thought maybe they just rebadged the machine, which was common practice back in the day, but I looked at every single 36 inch band saw on the Vintage Machinery site and couldn't find another one, nothing even similar to this one. The saw is heavy duty and very well made. I'm guess the weight around 1400 lbs. The bottom wheel is solid cast iron and weighs about 200 pounds, the table top just a little less but not much. The blade guard, small table, and weight for the blade tension can be seen leaning against the saw at the bottom of this pic It's hard to judge the size of the machine from the pics but the guide column is 1 1/2 inch solid steel and the cast iron wheel to adjust the column up and down is 8 inches. One thing that I found to be cool is they used a lot of cast bronze or brass in the machine. It will look great all cleaned up and polished. The long handle you can see in front of the wheel to adjust the blade tension is solid brass and is used to adjust the tilt of the upper wheel. A shot from below shows the trunnions, which are in great shape, and the hand wheel to adjust the table tilt. The tilt scale is also brass and a 1/4 inch thick. It took about 2 hours to get the machine stripped down to a manageable weight so I could get it off the trailer. No access to a fork lift this time so it was unloaded using a cherry picker and a pallet jack. The next pics were taken by my daughter,who picked up the photography bug from me … she does a great job. My wife and I getting the saw up in the air. Getting the saw down the steep slope into my shop with the help of my step dad and my wife, who is always willing to help me out when restoring a machine. Working hands The babbitt bearings are in descent shape but I think I will repour them. The lower blade guard is missing, along with the levers to move the flat belt from the idler pulley to the drive pulley. The worse thing is the upper wheel has a crack in it across the rim, thank god it wasn't on the hub, but I think I've come up with a way to fix it. If not, I will be looking for a replacement. Oh, I also picked up a nice 5 hp 3 phase Westinghouse motor to power it Thanks for looking. I will post the restoration pics when I get it done. Shane
  5. I inherited this beauty from my uncle, who inherited it from my grandfather, who I believe bought it new. All i know of it so far is it is a Duro desktop band saw. I am planning to do a total restoration on it, and need some advice on how to approach prepping the cover for primer and paint. I may have access to a soda blaster to gently remove the small amount of paint, and surfact corrosion, but if not i need to know how to properly removed the age without damageing the cast iron. I want to return make this back into a working piece, and so will be doing a full disasemble and repair/replacment of needed parts. Does anyone know of a parts guide or owners manual that may exist for these old units? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  6. For years have been snagging clothes and apron on the pin on Grizzly BS that keeps the table flat. Have made two new pins and today got an idea to never have that problem again. I made a new pin from all thread and then got a piece of oak from scrap bin and drilled a hole and threaded on .
  7. "Back From The Archives" So did Santa treat you all well? He left me a new-old crew member. So without further ado here's the newest-old member of my old machinery work crew! It's a model 785 Delta 10" bandsaw that was available between 1931-1937. This is an early version of the saw due to the stamped steel wheels, later versions had cast wheels. It will need to have the resto-mod treatment done to it to get it running again, but that's half the fun of owning old machines. I'll be upgrading the blade guides to the ones from a 1950's Homecraft bandsaw. I also have to give some attention to the lower drive shaft. At some point in it's past a previous owner had replaced the ball bearings with bronze bushings. The lower shaft has some damage that was done to it. The bronze bushings appear to be from a later Homecraft bandsaw, they are bigger in diameter then the shaft size, so there is some wobble. I'm trying to locate the lower shaft from a Homecraft bandsaw at the present time. I would like to give a big Thank You to the following TPW members for thier assistance in getting this machine to me. First off I would like to thank Ken Rasmussen for the kind offer of selling this machine to me. It was one of his own machines that he actually never saw in person. I'd been trying to get one of these for close to a decade, and Ken offered it to me after reading one of my resto-mod blogs. I'll do it up proud Ken! Second I would like to thank John Morris and his Family for picking it up in San Diego, during a visit to John's Mother. John then took the time to package it up and get it shipped here to me in S.E. Wisconsin. Not even the FedEx people could destroy the packaging. I now know what a newspaper from San Jacinto, California looks like. John must have used the Sunday edition of the paper, we got a kick out of all the sale adds. I'll be doing a write-up on this machine, just as I do for the rest of the old machines that become members of my crew. So it will join the lineup of machines to be featured on TPW's Old Machinery Forum.
  8. On August 07, 2012 I purchased this Rikon 10-325 14-Inch Deluxe Band Saw from Amazon. I had been wanting to get into making some furniture but it never happened. So over the last 5 years I have used the saw a total of 5 times. My wife and I are looking to be moving out of Corona, Ca 92881 and moving to Kentucky as my wife is retiring. Due to the move I cannot keep this so it needs to go. So if there are any woodworkers located in the Riverside/San Bernardino/Orange County California area that would be interested let me know. The original purchase price in 2012 was $960 plus $70 for a mobile base I will sell the saw with the base and a couple of new band saw blades for $400 to get it out of my garage.
  9. bandsaw box for a friend. last names starts with W. Cherry with Wenge accent. top is held on by 4 little barrel magnets, so you can display it this way on a shelf if you wish.
  10. A couple winters ago, I made my neighbor and his wife an "initial plaque" because of his help blowing out our driveway all winter. I just made set number four for folks we know, and I thougt I would share some of my crazy design and build techniques for those who may want to venture into abstract things. Here's two images of what I'm talking about. Then I'll describe the steps for your consideration. The first image shows the front side of the initials plaque. All three initial are raised, using a 1/2"diameter x 3/4" long dowel stanchions recessed into the initials using a Forstner bit, 1/16" deep. There are no plans. Ever. I just grab some 1/4" plywood and sketch some initials on it. Three rules. The last name initial is always the biggest. The man's first name initial is always second. And.. The woman's first name initial is always first. (What's new?) Each initial is hand drawn and rough cut out on the bandsaw. Proportions are somewhat important here to ensure a nice looking result. Then, using the proper size Forstner bits, cut each small corner where the initial "curves" meet to ensure a nice smooth arc. Then, using a small diameter drum sander in your drill press, finish sand the piece prior to painting. I use three different colors of latex paint. Colors your choice. Image two shows the backside of the plaque. The top two stanchions have holes in them to hang the plaque on nails. The bottom one on the "C" is a stabilizer with no hole. The bottom, tapered pin on the "S"is another stabilizer. I like to "stagger" the initials using the spacer pin locations to maximize the exposure to each initial. This kind of project will embrace your creative "juices' to the point where you can make just about any design you want. Have fun! Larry
  11. I recently found a pretty nice (at least I thought it was) Delta 785 10" Bandsaw. Got it home and took a closer look. Missing the upper blade guard assemble which I found over on OWWM. Removed the upper wheel due to awful sounds from bearings (I thought it was bearings). Bearings are bicycle type so I am rebuilding them, but that's not the problem. The wheel seems broken??? By that I mean the outer tin shell rotates on the bearing housing. I don't think its supposed to do that. You can see the problem in the photo. The bearing housing is not connected to the wheel. Soo, any ideas on how to repair that problem?
  12. I recently acquired a slightly used Craftsman BAS350 14" band saw. It is the same saw as the Rikon 10-321 band saw. It is equipped with a one horse power motor and a very nicely machined cast iron table with a rip capacity opening of 8.5". I got a 5/8" 3TPI blade and ran some firewood pieces through it to make turning blanks and was very pleased with the performance. It has a 2" dust port below the blade and a 4" port at the bottom of the lower wheel. I connected a dust collector to the 4" port with great results and see no need to hook up the two inch port. With the 4" port hooked up air was being sucked into the 2" port effectively sucking any dust the 2" port might have yielded. I really liked the idea of blowing the dust out into the back yard. No muss no fuss. The red knob on top of the saw is the blade adjustment knob. It is easily removed which is a nice feature. Once the tension is released the knob can be removed and laid in plain sight on the table as a reminder that the blade needs tensioned before using. It has roller blade guides which are bearings mounted to adjustable pins. One of the bearings was making noise so I oiled it. I got the number off of it to see about getting some spares and found they are inline skate wheel bearings which makes them readily available. In fact, I had bought a set of cheap skates to use the wheels to make a lathe steady and had five extra wheels I could get the bearings out of. I did and sure enough they were the same. All in all, I am happy with the saw.
  13. Simple survey. What should be the next tool band saw or bench drill press? If it's band saw, bench top or floor model? My primary source of wood are old pallets. my next big project will be a long book case with doors and offset shelves
  14. I am looking for a set of guides that would be an upgrade from what I have now, which is just the stock roller guides for my Grizz 14" Ultimate Bandsaw. I have folks say they love the freeze blocks, and then there are some nice bearing guides too. My saw is this one at http://www.grizzly.com/products/The-Ultimate-14-Bandsaw/G0555?utm_campaign=zPage A 14" with riser block. Does anyone have any recommendations for a new guide set? Thanks!
  15. Laguna Tools is one our biggest donors to our charity events for the veterans projects we are involved in. Laguna Tools, owners Catherine Helshoj and Torben Helshoj, are both dedicated to the men and women who have served our nation. We are very fortunate to have them by our side in all we do. Please support Laguna Tools with your purchases, as they support us, and our veterans.
  16. A few years back, I received a huge chunk of Gaboon Ebony. It originally weighed in around 60 pounds. Over the years I've cut small sections off for trim, pen blanks, etc (at the most, 3/4 inch thickness per cut). For my current project, I ripped two 6 in wide boards, using the band saw with a 3/4" blade. About a 1/2 inch into the cut, sparks began to fly. As the cut progressed I began to wonder if I was grinding metal versus cutting wood. Upon inspection, there is no metal in the wood, that can be seen. A friend suggested that its the density of the ebony that causes the sparks. Before I ripped the 2nd boards I took time to clean up all the sawdust, just in case. The second rip did the same thing only the sparks were immediate. Is this normal? There's no burn marks in the wood and no sign of any metal. The sparks lasted throughout both cuts, so it wasn't like hitting a nail or other object. I cant replicate it with any other type of wood. I later ripped oak, walnut, and poplar with no sparks. .
  17. This past Sunday I ordered the Shop Fox Mini Base for my Grizzly G0555 Band Saw. I have had my band saw up on casters for years, and it's always been a tad high. The casters are about 3" tall, so the band saw is kind of a good fit for a 6' tall woodworker at this point, I am only 5'-9". Also when pushing material through the resaw blade, the band saw wants to walk and rock a bit because of the height of the casters, so am hoping the low profile mobile base will stabilize the saw. I should be getting it this Thursday, I'll let ya all know how it feels and works!
  18. I've never been ecstatic with the re saw performance of my 11" Shopsmith band saw. First of all, it only has a 6" clearance. Not much to be done about that, though. But, the cuts have always been far less than perfect. No amount of fiddling with the tension, speed, and fence alignment ever produced a decent cut. Yesterday, I installed the Carter band saw guides. It's a whole new world! Always previously, I had to determine the drift of any blade used for re sawing, then set the fence accordingly and I was always off. And, no matter what I tried, the blade (3/8" thru 5/8") would want to kick out at the bottom of the cut, especially with 5"-6" material. Carter had assured me that there was no need to accommodate for drift so I set the fence square to the blade and proceeded with the cut. Using a 5/8, 4TPI blade, the cut was flawless. I am a happy camper!
  19. I was out picking last weekend and ran across this really cool looking home made bandsaw. I didn't see a price in it and couldn't find the owner to give me a price. Anyway I just thought it was very cool looking. Happy Patriot Picking!
  20. Actually, I just need an opinion. I have this older Craftsman benchtop band saw and I'm curious of it's age. Take a look at the photos and tell me what you think. Oh yeah, it is for sale, maybe.
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