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Found 19 results

  1. Steve Krumanaker

    Still With The Cryptex Boxes

    Last one of these for a while, or maybe not. They're fun to do. Maple with ash end caps. Five letter code. The pattern on the border rings was drawn in Delta Cad and Inkscape, I call it "star chain". The pointer is a generic Celtic pattern I cabbaged off the web. It's crazy how some projects get almost addictive. I have other things I need to be doing but these are just so much fun! Steve
  2. steven newman

    Will be a project for 2018?

    Per orders of the Boss. There is to be a skinny "pantry cupboard" made. It has to fit in a corner of the Dinning Room next to the chimney. Kind of a dead space, not much seems to fit in there. Picked up a few boards the other day... Flat sawn, 4/4 by 6" by 5'-6' long. Thinking I can take the four longest slabs, and do a glue up into the two side panels. Size of the space I need to fill? 26" in width, 12-13" in depth.....between 60-67" in height. Thinking a single raised panel door..... The Infamous Single Brain Cell Sketch Up is now hard at work......Have enough 3/4" plywood for the shelves......May need one more plank for the face frames and door frames.....May go back out to Southern Logan County, OH....and buy a couple more planks.....we'll see. Still in the plan(??? What IS a plan)stage.....stay tuned
  3. Smallpatch

    I started this box

    I couldn't find any hinges then misplaced the lid when I started putting the 100 % Tung oil on. And it has sat there looking heart broken and dejected ever since. I still can't figure out what or why I had started building it! I finally asked the one who knows everything and she said she had requested a tape dispenser like the one I built for me...
  4. Checked McFeeley's to see if their 1/1/4" ash dowels were still the most reasonable priced dowels on the market and hey, McFeeleys has changed ownership and don't ever list lots of things they used to sell..including dowels Their 3 foot ash dowels uses to sell for 3.35 each in lots of 50 and were super straight. I have a few more of the 100 I bought from them but now need more. They told me at the time they didn't stock the large sizes for they would be straighter leaving it up to the supplier to keep and send only the straight ones to McFeeley's customers... Shucks!!
  5. John Morris

    Ash Feet for Steam box

    From the album: Steam Bending Wood

    I have some ash sitting around so I decided to add a little weight to my box by adding some ash feet to bottom.
  6. John Morris

    Steam Box Feet

    From the album: Steam Bending Wood

    Ash feet. One is taller than the other to allow for condensation to drain out of the box.
  7. John Morris

    My Big Ash Mallet

    I had a little fun in the shop this morning. Soon I'll be firing up some chairs to build, and right now I am kind of jigging up and tooling up for this big project. Besides the jigs my son and I have been working on, today I got in the shop and made one complete mallet, and I have a couple more in the wings that need to be made as well. Before I took these images I had already made my layout lines and cut the mallet handle slots on my table saw. I simply set my table saw t-slot miter to 4 degrees and cut the slots in from one side then I set it at 4 degrees the other way and cut the other slot in the other side, then I hogged it out with several passes over the table saw blade. My 12" blades have 1/4" wide teeth so it didn't take long to hog the slots out. I laid out 3 mallets and gang sawed them. I cleaned up the slots with shoulder plane, the slots were heavily kerfed so I used the shoulder plane to knock the kerfs down, not all the way, but just enough to clean it up. I cut my lay out lines to produce the mallet blank halves. The key angle here is 5 degrees on the face. This allows your mallet to be used flush on a bench without your knuckles hitting the bench top but at the same time to have a sweet spot at the arc of your swing or tapping. Blanks ready to be glued up The handles are just dry fit into the slots. To get a great fit I had to sneak up on the handle widths, as not all handle slots in each mallet were the same as the next, because I cut these on the table saw without any jigs, just eyeballing lines is all. So each mallet was a tad different. I had to plane each handle to fit each slot right. I'll have a better assembly process next time, I plan on making many of these and pass them out as gifts and possibly sell them as well. A dry fit looking at the top of the mallet, the slot is tapered, so the bottom is tight and snug, the top is flared out leaving room for the wedges to secure the mallet. When I do these again I'll cut the slots so there is not much of a flare out at the top, it's really not needed. I think a 2 degree slot flare would suffice next time instead of the 4 degree. Lots of glue in around the handle, and on the wedges, I wanted the entire slot filled with either wood or glue, securing it for life. I tapped the outer wedges in just a tad, and I drove home the two center wedges pretty hard. Keep in mind, if you make a mallet, the wedges must be tapped in perpendicular to the grain to avoid splitting the wood. Cleaned up the glue a tad I used my bow arc to make the arc on the top of the mallet. Was an arc needed? No, but the mallet looks better with some shape to it. The arc All the edges of the mallet were chamfered with my block plane and the handle of the mallet of was shaped using my draw knife and a card scraper. The finished mallet at the right, and my two roughs waiting in the wings on the left. I put a very heavy coat of Watco Danish Oil on and wiped off. Here is a fun picture showing the hand tools I used to help make this mallet, it took a combination of my table saw to make the slots, the shoulder plane to clean up the slots, the miter saw to cut the blanks at 5 degrees, and my hand tools to shape and make it interesting. It's hard to see, but the chamfers I put into the handle and the edges of the head, are less than perfect, but that's alright, it's a mallet! The most difficult part was shaping the handle with my draw knife, ash is so brittle and grainy, it shapes horribly with hand tools, so I had to follow up my draw knifed handle with a card scraper. I'll be finishing the other two tomorrow. The main reason I built this mallet was for my chairs, I can't use a regular steel hammer without leaving marks, and a rubber mallet bounces too much. I already gave this mallet a test drive and I also used it on some chisels, I love it. I did not use any plans, I just read up on the required angle of the face of the mallet, and made my mallet thicker than the average. Most mallets I looked at were in the 2 3/4" thickness range, I made mine at 3 1/4", and I am glad I did, it has a nice big face. Thanks for following along!
  8. Just a quick hit and run from the ol shop. A collection of forms and jigs for my shaker chairs. Left, rear post bending form. Next, front post drilling jig. Next, back rest slat bending form. Last at far right, side rung mortising jig. Fun huh! All made from Ash but for the mortising jig. They should last as long as I live! As you can see, the bends are not radical at all. Kiln dried in the steam box will work just fine.
  9. John Morris

    Another Big Ash Mallet

    I really enjoy making these mallets. Something about it that is very relaxing. I'll just have to find some owners for em since I can only use one at a time! Here are my first two. Just doing a hit and run topic from my shop. Don't you just love how you can start topics and upload images all from a smart phone in our community. The software we are using is most excellent.
  10. John Morris

    Chamfering the Edges

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    All the edges of the mallet were chamfered with my block plane and the handle of the mallet of was shaped using my draw knife and a card scraper.
  11. John Morris

    Just a Fun Image

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Here is a fun picture showing the hand tools I used to help make this mallet, it took a combination of my table saw to make the slots, the shoulder plane to clean up the slots, the miter saw to cut the blanks at 5 degrees, and my hand tools to shape and make it interesting.
  12. John Morris

    Ash Mallet is Done!

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    The finished mallet at the right, and my two roughs waiting in the wings on the left. I put a very heavy coat of Watco Danish Oil on and wiped off.
  13. John Morris

    Wedging the Mallet Handle to the Head

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Lots of glue in around the handle, and on the wedges, I wanted the entire slot filled with either wood or glue, securing it for life. I tapped the outer wedges in just a tad, and I drove home the two center wedges pretty hard. Keep in mind, if you make a mallet, the wedges must be tapped in perpendicular to the grain to avoid splitting the wood.
  14. John Morris

    Checking the Slot Width Fit

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    A dry fit looking at the top of the mallet, the slot is tapered, so the bottom is tight and snug, the top is flared out leaving room for the wedges to secure the mallet. When I do these again I'll cut the slots so there is not much of a flare out at the top, it's really not needed. I think a 2 degree slot flare would suffice next time instead of the 4 degree.
  15. John Morris

    Test Fit

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    The handles are just dry fit into the slots. To get a great fit I had to sneak up on the handle widths, as not all handle slots in each mallet were the same as the next, because I cut these on the table saw without any jigs, just eyeballing lines is all. So each mallet was a tad different. I had to plane each handle to fit each slot right. I'll have a better assembly process next time, I plan on making many of these and pass them out as gifts and possibly sell them as well.
  16. John Morris

    Mallet Heads

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Blanks ready to be glued up
  17. John Morris

    Cutting Mallet Blanks from Billet

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    I cut my lay out lines to produce the mallet blank halves. The key angle here is 5 degrees on the face. This allows your mallet to be used flush on a bench without your knuckles hitting the bench top but at the same time to have a sweet spot at the arc of your swing or tapping.
  18. John Morris

    Checking Handle Slot Alignmnet

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Before I took these images I had already made my layout lines and cut the mallet handle slots on my table saw. I simply set my table saw t-slot miter to 4 degrees and cut the slots in from one side then I set it at 4 degrees the other way and cut the other slot in the other side, then I hogged it out with several passes over the table saw blade. My 12" blades have 1/4" wide teeth so it didn't take long to hog the slots out. I laid out 3 mallets and gang sawed them.
  19. John Morris

    Shoulder Plane and Mallet Blanks

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    I cleaned up the slots with shoulder plane, the slots were heavily kerfed so I used the shoulder plane to knock the kerfs down, not all the way, but just enough to clean it up.

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