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Found 3 results

  1. From the album: 18th Century Connecticut Blanket Chest

    This is a pine chest I made and what a fun project this was. I was perusing an older issue of American Woodworker and found this amazing chest that the author and maker reproduced from an original chest made in the 18th century by John Wheeler Geer of Preston Connecticut. The hinges are hand forged, I purchased them from Fisher Forge, The forge is run by David Fisher and he makes everything you see on his business site. I made the dovetails with my Keller 1601 jig. I cannot hand cut dovetails to save my life, but I do love my Keller! Just like the original chest, the drawer is on wood friction slides, there is nothing of modern technology on this chest. When I took the images of this chest I had the colonial handle pulls and half mortise lock set on the way to my home, on other words they were not installed yet.
  2. I've done loose tenons because (a) I can make tenons stock to very precise tolerances and (b) I built a slot mortiser / milling machine that does a great job making slots. I tried the traditional tenon cutting rig and never could get results that I liked. The problem for me was the doubling of error due to the flipping of the stock. Any error is always compounded. I have seen guys who use a shaper to cut tenons and using shim stock they can make 'em any way they please. I've considered doing the same thing with a table saw arbor using spacers shims and twin blades. Never actually tried it, but I know I ain't the only person who considered it. Somewhere I saw a vid of some mexican luthiers using twin stacked circular saw blades (really big ones) mounted on what looked like a shaper to re-saw wood for guitar fronts and backs. They had to have at least a 10" depth of cut. it looked scary. Recently I stumbled across this 1992 American Woodworker article on exactly this: Cutting Tenons And of course there's a more recent incarnation of it here http://www.woodcraftmagazine.com/posts.php?id=218 Not that long ago the dopes at FWW got themselves all in a tizzy over something I've been doing for as long as I've owned a table saw (more than 40 years), and years they called it the speed tenon. I call it a bit rough on the blade, because it dulls one side lots more than the other making it cut funny after not too long. Set the rip fence for the length of the tenon, set the blade height to cut the shoulder, slap the wood in the cross cut fence and use the rip fence as a positive stop. Most of the cutting is done with the edge of the saw blade. http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/42295/behold-the-speed-tenon It is a little more precise than the traditional tenoning rig because you can control blade height nicely, but any error is still compounded. Everything old is always new again.
  3. I just renewed my subscription to Fine Woodworking, and I tried to start a new subscription for American Woodworker, and I found out that American Woodworker is now in cahoots with Popular Woodworking! Call me lame! I did not know this! I love Popular Woodworking, so it's a win win, but I also loved American Woodworker! Anyway, I started a new subscription for Popular Woodworker as well.
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