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Found 266 results

  1. Well, still had a plank of Walnut sitting around in the shop. 6/4 by 10" by 4' long. Decided (for some strange reason) to try to resaw the plank to something a bit thinner..... Clamped it up on the bench. Ran a jointer plane along the edges. End closest to the camera? I wasn't about top plane THAT much off. Found a stick of Oak, and a couple c clamps. Plan was to go as deep and straight as I could, and work my way around all four edges.....that WAS the plan... Saw didn't like this kind of work. Either bogged down, or pulled to one side. Tried an end cut Not the best. Once all four edges wer molested...er...cut. The plan was to use the bandsaw or a handsaw to finish the through cut.....handsaw was a fail...need a real one of about 4-5ppi. Bandsaw? Plank was about 1" too tall. #@#@@! So, slapped the plank onto the bench, marked a line right down the center, and used the circular saw to rip in into two halfway sawn planks. Tried the smaller pieces on the bandsaw, again....blade seems to be duller than Ferris Bueller's High School teacher......merely wanted to do curves......Resaw fenced the circular saw? Nah, just mark a line and saw with the circular saw... These are the "good" sides....the other faces will need a LOT of scrub plane work to get flat....I will also need to joint the edges a lot better. Then, with the rest of my "leftovers' A little fuzzy, was a bit tired and shaky.....Also have a 8/4 plank of Oak to mill down a bit. Single Brain Cell Sketch Up is working out the details for what to do with this pile of......wood. Might take awhile.....hard to tell what will get cobbled together......of course, that is what i said about the table I just finished up......stay tuned, the cussing has already started...
  2. From the album: John Morris's Hand Tools

    I built this square from left over Walnut from some project eons ago, and the Curly Maple is scrap from a Shaker Rocker I am currently building. The two pins are of Walnut as well. They are through-pins.
  3. Again. Not quite sure what will come out of there...yet. Have a lot of candy bar sized pieces of Walnut.... Couple pieces of Curly Maple.... A few pieces of White oak and some Pine.. Most are about ..1/2" thick or so. Been using a plane to square them up a bit......have to watch when I pull the plane back......the front end of the plane would slip off the end of the board, and then a finger gets cut from the sharp corners of the board. OW! needed to slow it down a notch. No pictures just yet, still not sure WHAT sort of thing the Single Brain Cell Sketch Up will come up with.....stay tuned.
  4. Yesterday I managed to extract myself from the busy life of Honey Do's and kids daily events and get a little time in the shop with our Claro Rocker. A week ago when I started laying out the arms ontop of the arm pads that are basically the top of the front legs, I realized I made a major mistake in my calculations for the arm rests to meet up at the proper height to the joint at the rear leg/backrest area. I was a full 1/4" too low, the joinery was not going to meet up where it was supposed to by my previously laid out joints. After much thinking and tinkering with ideas and layouts, I finally came to the conclusion that I'll simply increase the height of the arm rest by adding a 1/4" block to raise up the arm rest. Since this is walnut, the newly added pad will be un-noticeable. In some regards these rockers are un-forgiving in errors, but in many regards these rockers are also very forgiving in the sense that this is in essence a sculpted work, so errors and mis-steps often times can be carved, shaped, and filed away or to blend, and in this case, it is a forgiving error/ Images below are not exciting, they simply show my modified pad glued up to the top of the front leg pad to increase the height of the arm rest. First image shows my pad glued up and secured with my quick grips just to get them in place. One thing I like to do is save sawn cut-outs from a piece I shape so we can use them as clamping cauls, you'll notice the blocks at the bottom of the shaped arm pad, they were initially cut out for the the preliminary shaping of the arm rest block, I held on to them to use as I clamp up the arm rest to the block, but I was also able to use them in this fix for clamping cauls. Next images show the clamps all in place on both arm rests pads. Unrelated to the arm rest FUBAR, are more images showing the preliminary shaping of the front leg seat joints. I rough and blend the joints in with a 4.5" right angle grinder. But first I need to secure the chair to my bench. Next I take to grinding the general shape of the joint. As it takes shape I'll then finish it up with a combination of my ROS and some files. Image below shows the joint blended and formed, no gaps in the glue joint either, this is a successful chair joint. To reach the other side of the joint, I need to position the chair on the floor, and brace it with my legs and feet, and work on the joint from a comfortable height as I sit. The joint is not finished, but it's coming along. I use the same technique as I did with the other side of the joint in images above. Thanks for following along, now contrary to popular propositions and laws being formed and voted on, I feel these are some "joints" we can all get behind!
  5. My Mom is 91 (this past Monday) and she still sews and makes clothes. I noticed she had an the same seam ripper for years so I thought I'd make her a new one for Christmas- but it turned out to be a birthday gift. However when making one it's just as easy to make two so the other one will be for my sister for Christmas. I bought the kits from Craft Supplies because I needed some other stuff that I can only find at their site. Making the rippers is pretty straight forward, especially if you turn pens. I had some walnut pen blanks I found in a box of scraps. Drilled them with the proper sized bit using the lathe. One trick when drilling pen blanks is to not drill the hole completely thru the blank. Using a brad point bit will have the point punch thru before the bit actually exits the blank. This process keeps the blank from being blown out when the bit would exit. Once the brass tube is glued into place, the end of the blank can be trimmed near the tube- I trimmed mine on the band saw. Then used the sanding center to bring the wooden blank flush with the brass tube on each end. I planned on doing a CA finish on these. To keep the CA from gluing the bushings to the blank/tubing I apply a coating of bumble bee butter to the bushings. Then mounted the blank and bushing to the pen mandrel. Then the assembly on to the lathe Rounded the blank with a roughing gouge Shaped with the skew Sanded the blank to 400 with Abranet mesh to 400 and finished off with Abralon pads to 4000. Applied some sanding sealer. Then about 40 layers of thin CA- Assembled the parts with my shop made pen press One gold and one silver I still have a bunch of wooden scoops to turn for the nurses at my doctor's office and a few other people.
  6. lew

    Turned Kitchen Scoops

    So I'm down to making gifts for the nurses at my doctor's office. I rarely visit the office for a "Sick Call" but I do take care of their computers. It's always an inconvenience for the nurses when I have to interrupt their routines, so I try and make up for it by making each of them a little something every year. My sister gave me this idea a couple of years ago when she gifted me a turned scoop and I've been meaning to make some ever since. I had some walnut and maple boards left from previous projects so they got glued into turning blanks. Some were all walnut and some were walnut and maple combinations. Mounted between lathe centers, I turned a chuck tenon on each blank. Over the years, I got tired of measuring the calipers every time I turned a chuck tenon so I made this quick little helper jig to make the measurements. One side is for the tenon, the other side of the jig is for measuring for the outside of the chuck mounting. Sizing the tenon As I was making a bunch of these, I do each operation to all of the blanks before moving on to the next step. Next, removed the drive center and replaced it with the chuck and prepared to drill out the bulk of the material for the scoops. The first hole was just under 2" in diameter (my largest Forstner bit) this hole set the depth of the scoop. Because I wanted the "back" of the scoop to be more rounded, I needed to also set the depth limit of that portion as well. I used my shop made drilling gauge to finish out the settings. Finished drilling The blanks were then remounted in the chuck in preparation for completing the insides. To assure the blanks get centered properly, I made a cone adapter that fits over the tail stock live center Once securely chucked, The cone is pulled out and work can begin enlarging and shaping the inside. Each of the square blanks were slightly different dimensions, so every scoop was unique. I did sand the inside of each blank as it was shaped using my shop made ball sander. The ball sander is from Mr. David Reed Smith. You can read the free instructions here- http://www.davidreedsmith.com/articles/foamballsander/foamballsander.htm. Once the inside was sanded, the outside of the blank was rounded, using the cone for support. I have several of these cones- of different sizes- and they really come in handy. To be able to shape the outside of the scoops, I needed to reference to depth of the rounded "back". A simple depth indicator does the trick. (Notice the black indicator mark near the chuck end of the blank. I have gotten into the habit of marking my blanks with a reference mark that aligns with a reference mark on the chuck. This assures the blanks are always remounted in the same orientation in the chuck.) The depth of the recess is transferred to the outside of the rounded blank. The blanks are all marked and read for shaping. Set the overall length, and shape the scoops When I finished the shaping and sanding, I had 9 "bells" of which I forgot to take a picture. Anyway, To convert the "bells" into scoops, I needed to cut each one on the bandsaw. Problem here was trying to safely hold each one and to be sure the cut was vertical across the scoop opening. To accomplish this I made a jig to hold the scoop. The following pictures describe the process- This hole was drilled almost through the blank and then enlarged to match the average diameter of the scoops. A piece of 1/4" plywood in tacked to one of the jaws of the wooden screw clamp and one half of the drilled block is also attached to that jaw. The opposite jaw with attached half block is free to move. The jig and its' base made it easy to cut the curved profile on the scoop opening. All cut and ready for finish sanding With the hot bee's wax/mineral oil finish I think the presents are done for this year. A few extra scoops in case we need a quick present- or I forgot some one! Thanks for following along!
  7. While I was building the humidor, a friend mentioned he had acquired a shotgun. He wanted a protective case but not the typical soft sided type. We measured his gun and calculated what size the case it would take. Not too large but enough room for a couple of accessories. Using Sketchup, we eventually came up with an appropriate design. While he hadn't decided on the hardware, I now had enough information to begin working. The box is solid walnut with inside dimensions of 10" x 32" x 3 1/8". All stock is 1/2" thick. The top has a raised panel. The interior will be filled with FastCap Kiazen Liner. There was enough walnut left from the humidor to make all the necessary pieces, with the exception of the bottom. The bottom is actually two thinner panels glued together. The design of the bottom installation hides the seam. My friend wanted the sides/ends joined with dovetails. The bottom and top will set in dadoes. In the next part- layout and cutting dovetails.
  8. After milling and sizing the sides and ends, it was time to layout the dovetails. I use a shop made angle layout jig for the tails. I'm a tails first dovetail person. I know there are folks who do the pins first and there are valid arguments to each procedure. This is how I learned to do them and it works for me. I use a marking knife for laying out the dovetails and a marking gauge to locate the dept of cuts. As for cutting the the dovetails, I really like the Japanese pull saw. I only have the Dozuki (cross cut) but it works OK for all of the cuts. Maybe one of these days I'll get a Ryoba and do things the correct way. Layout of the location of the dovetails was straight forward- I didn't take a bunch of pix during this part- One of the design problems was that I wanted to keep the tails fairly consistent in width. However, the box will be split after the assembly so the saw kerf will change the dimension of the tail width. To compensate, I needed to make one of the tails slightly wider. I made a full size template in Sketchup to help me figure it all out. A white artist pencil for labeling all of the pieces to maintain the proper orientation. A mock-up of one of the corners helped me see how things were going to go together. Including the cut that would eventually separate the top and bottom You would think, at this point, I would see the giant mistake staring me in the face- but Nooooo! Next part, the near fatal error and how I fixed it
  9. The sides and ends needed to have dados to accept the top and bottom. So as not to have the dados extend through the pins, stopped dados would do the trick. These were made on the router table. 1/4" wide and 5/16" deep. It was time for a little finessing of the joints to assure everything fit. Yes, there it was staring me right in the face! How could I not see what I did. Worse yet, how am I going to fix it now?!?!?!? I picked up the test piece and it finally hit me! If I cut the top completely free, there will only be one pin for the lid "tail". There will be no structural element (second pin) to hold them together. Even the best glue won't hack it here. Hmmm... can't weld wood together. Maybe a glue block on the inside corners. There's not much material between the top and the edge of the lid. At this point I stopped and went for a long walk. Several thoughts went through my mind- including selling all my tools and just sitting on the porch watching cars go by. But then it came to me- After assembling the box, I could drill a hole in each corner. The depth of the hole would be just shy of the saw kerf. Gluing a dowel into the hole should provide enough strength to make the joint stable. Next time- making the top and bottom.
  10. Having solved the problem of the non-supported dovetails in the lid, I made a dry fit of the sides and ends Most often, I like to make actual measurements rather than rely on what I calculated the size of the pieces I'll need. The good old Stanley Folder is my go-to tool for this type of measurement. Once the dimensions are taken, I can size and create the top and bottom. Both pieces were made from glue-ups. The top is 1/2" stock. The bottom is created from some thinner stock glued up to make the panel.; then planed to 1/2" thick. The bottom and top set in dados. The bottom is rabbeted to make a 1/4" tongue for the dado. The top is a raised panel made on the table saw. To make the top, the first thing is to create a crisp edge for the raised portion. The cuts are about 1/16" deep and will form the lip of the raised portion. The distance from the edge of the panel to the cut is sort of a trial and error method. Layout on a test piece, cut, check. I make my raised panels with a 7° angle. It seems to work best for me. To make the angled cuts, I use a shop made raised pane jig. It is sort of an overgrown tenoning jig. The down side of this method is that it requires a fair amount of sanding on the bevel to get rid of the saw marks. The up side- I don't need to buy a giant router and a set of raised panel bits. Don't get me wrong- I'm not opposed to buying more tools. However, a bigger router means I'd have to rebuild my shop made router table lift. Now it is just a matter of dry fitting the entire unit together- Next time, the glue-up, fix for the dove tail mistake and splitting the box.
  11. Once everything was properly fitted, the case was disassembled and prepped for gluing. I had previously sanded all of the pieces to 150 grit- except the top and bottom. Those two were sanded to 220 grit due to the difficulty of sanding them in place. I taped the locations where the dovetails intersected- on the inside of the box- to help eliminate a lot of glue squeeze out cleanup. Assembled one end and two sides. Dropped in the top and bottom. Then glued in the last end piece. Some clamps, checked for square then set it aside for a day- Next up, was fixing the dovetail error. I went back and forth between matching or contrasting dowel pins. Finally settled on walnut. My first idea was to create dowels, that when installed, had the flat grain exposed. This would make them almost invisible. However, my goal was also to increase the strength of the joint. With the grain running across the dowel diameter, the dowel could be easily snapped in half. Back to the lathe- Grain running lengthwise. Drilling the corner holes was done on the drill press. My drill press table sets slightly off center. This presented a little bit of an problem when drilling two of the holes. The case extended quite a bit off of the side of the drill table and needed to have additional support. I used to have a shop made adjustable support just for this purpose- but I never used it. NOTE TO SELF- Don't throw anything away! Dowels were then glued into place and trimmed with a flush trim saw. Sanding all of the dovetails flush and the case was ready to be split. Using the table saw and a really thin blade- actually the blade off of my miter saw- I made a cut around the outside of the box. The saw cut did not completely separate the top and bottom. I left a little bit of material to hold the two pieces together throughout the cut. To complete the separation, carefully cut through the material with a sharp utility knife- The completed cut- Finally, sand the excess material left in the cut (I don't trust myself with the hand plane). The blue tape on the inside corners needs to be removed. That really facilitates cleaning any glue squeeze out. When the hardware and liner gets here, we'll continue. I'm not sure what my friend has picked for hinges/latches or what kind of finish- just hope he doesn't want latex paint!
  12. The final installment of this project is just a little follow-up on the last details. My friend supplied the hardware and liner for me to install. The latches snap securely and installed easily, as did the hinges. The only caveat was that the sides of the case were 1/2" thick and the screws were a little longer. The difference isn't noticeable due to the type of liner he chose. The short protruding nibs actually help keep the foam in place. I had never worked with this material. There are a few videos on the Internet explaining how to cut and shape it to your needs. Because I was placing it inside a box and the fit needed to be perfect, I cut the foam to size on my table saw using a fine toothed blade from my circular saw. Worked Perfectly!! I was able to get both the lid and bottom liner from a single sheet of 58mm material. The box bottom used the piece's full thickness. The lid, however, needed the material to be a little less than 1" thick. The plan was to simply separate the 58mm foam into a thinner sheet. The foam is manufactured in layers. The concept is to cut out an outline of the item you want to store and then remove the foam layers to create a cavity. My thoughts were- "Hey, I'll use the same idea and just thin down the thick piece." Not so fast, pilgrim! Let's just say it sounded easier than it turned out. The surface where the material separated is extremely rough. Fortunately, that surface is not seen. He still hasn't decided on a carrying handle. He is thinking of something like a woven becket- My friend comes from a family of "finishers", so I think that part of the project will be handled by them. Well, that's it! Thanks for reading along
  13. A couple of turned salad bowls needed utensils. Made from thin scraps of walnut, glued, laminated and bent. After drying- cut to shape and sanded. Mineral oil finish. About 1/8" thick and 12" long.
  14. One Christmas I made a bunch of Walnut veneer scrapbooks.
  15. My son approached me last month and asked if we could build a desk for his bedroom for this upcoming school year, he is planning on a ton of homework and being in 10th grade and all, the work is going to get harder and harder. He asked me to help him build the desk just before I went into the hospital back in early June, I was in bad shape for the first few weeks coming out of the hospital and meanwhile he was asking me when we can start the desk, bless his little soul and heart, as crappy as I was feeling, he felt that ol Dad could get up and go and power through it all with a desk build. I had to put it off, with the way I was feeling, it wasn't even safe for me to be out there in the shop, and the fact that he asked me during that time period, and asked a few more times, indicates I was putting on a pretty positive attitude show for the family, despite how I was feeling. So, now that I am feeling pretty ok, much better than before, me and the boy went to the lumber yard and picked up a few cherry boards. The desk will be cherry, with walnut legs, he wanted two tone. Actually he wanted a Walnut desk, but once we got to the yard, the walnut was just too expensive, so he came around to cherry. We have a budget and we needed to stay within. And it so happens that I had some left over walnut so we'll incorporate the walnut into the mainly cherry desk somehow, thinking possibly the legs will be walnut. I had my boy rip down the boards on the Shopsmith, he did pretty good, burned the cherry on one edge and I then I took the second board and showed him how to use moderate steady feed rate and also keeping it against the fence. Once we had the boards sized, we chose one edge to join, the boards will be cut in half, and folded against each-other and glued edge to edge. I showed my son Jeroid how to handle the big No. 8C, he knows how mostly as he worked with me often years ago, but many years have gone by since he's been by my side in the shop, so picking up the plane again took some practice, fortunately we left the board wide by an 1/8" because I knew Jeroid was going to need practice room to get the edge right. Jeroid took a few passes on the edge and did pretty good, he had a few issues keeping the plane in constant contact with the edge, but he figured it out, I just stood back and let him error, and figure it out. He did. He really got the hang of it, and started to enjoy the process. By the last couple passes he had some shavings singing from the plane, I could tell he felt really good about what he was doing. The edge did get a little off, so I showed him how to get back to 90 with a little lateral adjustment of the plane iron, and he brought it back to square in about 4 or 5 passes. After he joined the boards, we cut them down and glued them up, that is where we are at right now, we have two desk ends, next we'll get the inner dividers joined and glued up. Thanks for reading along, seeya all next time!
  16. This project started when I saw a similar carved tray, at the local auction, that has been done by Jim Smith, from Shippensburg, PA. I had carved a similar tray, like this one, several years previously that I had seen in Maine Antique Digest(MAD). A friend of mine had gifted me a walnut leaf, from a 150 year old dropleaf table, and I had been saving it for that "special" project. Jim allowed me to photograph the tray at the auction and I proceeded to carve a "larger"version of his tray. The tray is called a cutlery tray and was designed to hold knives, forks, and spoons and right now, this tray is holding candy and is on our dutch cupboard. The wood was so hard, anything beyond razor sharp wouldn't do the smaller, detailed cuts. The corners have been dovetailed to hold the sides together. I also did a "practice" copy in basswood.... remember that both sides of the divider had to be carved. It was finished with 3 coats of shellac, rubbed out in between coats, and then lightly buffed to remove the final shiny finish.
  17. My wife and a good friend have a birthday coming soon and I wanted to make them something different/special. The 3/8” thick tray sides are splayed 20 degrees with box joints. The splayed box joints are inspired from a project in a 2009 Woodsmith magazine. The woods are walnut and cherry. The finish is (1) coat BLO and (2) coats clear shellac. Thanks for looking. Danl
  18. Keepsake box for the grand girl. 10.5 x 6.5 x 4", cherry oak walnut & mahogany.
  19. I get Tom Fidgen's Newsletter in my inbox and I always look forward to it. Tom is a hand made by hand tool guy, long story short, great stuff, beautiful work, I have been following him for along time. In the most recent newsletter he is advertising his new Two Handled Rasps, these are beautiful tools, I want them, I gotta have them, don't know how yet, but some day I'll have them in my shop. These tools just make sense, with their two handles, stitched rasp, these are made for accurate stock removal. I have no horse in the game here, I just love beautiful tools is all. Here they are. Just thought I'd share them.
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