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Found 32 results

  1. Just came across this...CPO clearance if anyone is interested... https://www.cpooutlets.com/bosch-1617evstb-2-1-4-hp-fixed-base-electronic-router-and-router-table-base/bshn1617evstb,default,pd.html Bosch 1617 w/router table base...10% off. Not bad when you consider 10% off, no sales tax, and free shipping. I didn't do a street price comparison, so do your own research...
  2. Well my carpenter skills are being called up yet again to build some furniture for our Land Surveyors Field Office. I have been tasked to build a set of 6 lockers to house each crews equipment, the equipment consists of levels, transits, GPS equipment, radios, and other misc gadgetry that we need to get our job done. These lockers will be locked, and the shelves will be adjustable with one fixed shelf towards the bottom quarter of each locker. Here is a overall drawing I made just to get my material list together and to create a cut-list. The ply I am using is really good quality, some of you may remember the crud I used to build the Surveyor's trucks boxes, it was pure crud. I told the command that if they want me to build more for them, I need to have good material, so I was able to get this 3/4 Maple ply that is very tight in ply's, voids are rare, and a pleasure to use. Also, the ply is pre-finished, it has a wonderful factory satin clear coat both sides, so I do not have to finish these cabinets but for some of the trim and face-frame. The pre-finished was an extra 15 dollars per sheet, we purchased 16 sheets, do the math and its only 250 dollars more, that's half a days wages for me, and it would take me much more time than that to finish the cabinets as we normally would. I ripped down the sheets to 24" each, this ply is great to work with in another way as well, they measure 48.5" by 96.5" leaving extra to trim off bad edges created during travel and to also get a full 24" width on the table saw. After I ripped down the sheets, I had to cut them down to 80.5" as the lockers will sit on a 3.5" toe kick frame, we'll have an over all height of 7' per my drawing. I made the cross cuts on my CMS, cut it once, then flipped it over to cut the rest of the way, it worked great. Typically I'd set my straight edge up on the full 4' by 8' sheet and cut the length with my Skil saw, but I wanted the cleaner cut that the CMS gives, so I chose to rip the sheets down first, then finish the cross cut length on the CMS. 1st cut Flip and ready for the 2nd cut I assembled the first locker in no time, I am building two lockers at once, two lockers will be in one unit, each unit at 48" wide. I did not take pics of the assembly of the case, sorry, I'll get some on the next case. The pic below show the back panel I am installing, it is 1/2" thick, and I am using it to square up the case, I use the factory edge to secure one side of the case, then I use the end factory edge to square up the top, or bottom, doesn't matter. This way I have a case that is squared up to the back panel, it's very convenient to use this method when working with large case work, as the case can be floppy and racky. I left the back panel run wild, once the case was squared up to the back panel, I used a flush cutting bit to cut the end off, and everything was perfect, I pulled my diagonals with my tape measure and everything was spot on, both sides. Once the end was cut, I screwed it in place as well. This locker is almost done, I have the oak face frame secured, no images sorry, the divider installed, and now I need to route the grooves for the shelf standards. The doors soon to come, but I'll do the doors all at once, after all three 48" wide units are complete and installed. I have three days to complete three units, we'll see, but it's looking good. See ya'll tomorrow with more progress shots.
  3. Good morning to all the mothers out there. I'm in the market to buy a set of these bits, I'm leaning towards the Whiteside 470 set but was looking to see if there was any others that might be good as well? Any special place to buy to get a good deal would be really appreciated. Pat
  4. Grandpadave52

    Past Picks First Showing

    Earlier this spring I made a few picks at yard sales and the "Flea Market Warehouse." Pictures were taken, but things got busy with the wreck, dealing with the that, kids activities, mowing, mower repair, more mowing, etc. well you get the idea... Anyways, since things are a little less hectic, a few more shots of the every growing "treasure trove." I'll try to be considerate and only post a couple threads a day less I bore you...Thanks for looking. These items were in the Craftsman Router case below...$2...I've hidden the router plate inserts from myself since this picture...could use them since I misplaced the ones that came with my router table The Massey-Ferguson magnetic clip was an extra 75 cents. It's from an area dealership from back in the 60's-70's...compliments my John Deere smalls collection I had an old school Craftsman router which needed a case...fit perfectly in this one...it also needed the base and collet wrench This collection set me back $13.25 with tax. Like new, 1/4" drive Craftsman ratchet, with full set of 1/4" deep metric sockets, the extension and a shallow well, 1/4" dr. 10 mm socket...The picture of them is after clean-up and time at the buffer; T-15 Craftsman driver...came in handy during the Jeep Ignition switch replacement; Kobalt 10" pipe wrench with minimal use; picture of it is after clean-up; a coupe more collet wrenches for ???; faucet wrench; the rust on the handle swing has been removed and polished since this; Stanley 3 pc chisel set minus the 1" The shaft stop collar has a 5/8" bore ID...I've used it in a couple of temporary fashions, but it became a valuable asset when I figured out how it could be used to repair a mower deck idler arm. I bought a couple more from the local Fastenal, welded to the idler arm and fixed a poor design, plaguing problem on my J.D. F510...Saved about $35 and works better. The stud is 5/16" NC threads with a 7/16" hex...I'll use it for something sooner or later. Will need a little work; the 3/4" might have been used to remove siding nails, IDK; other than the edges, both still have the protective varnish on the shafts
  5. Good video. Glen did a seminar last spring for the Cincinnati Woodworking Club and included techniques such as this.
  6. Recently Infinity tools brought out a mutiradius router bit. It will cut 1/16" r.1/8" r.,, and 1/4" r.. Also 1/16+1/8r, 1/16+1/8+1/4"r. And a 1/4"bead,+ 1/8r., and a 1/4" bead,+1/8" r, +1/16'r. Also a 1/4" bead,+ 1/8"r, +1/16" bead. That is 8 different profiles and there might be more. I cut some test cuts in a piede of hard white oak scrap and it cut nice and smooth no burns. The the higher profiles I cut in some Doug fir 2X material. It cost $48. including shipping. ,which amounts to $6.00 per profile and maybe less,which is not bad. Here are some pictures, apologies for the blurry ones.
  7. kmealy

    Mortising?

    I'm trying to decide what I want to do about efficient mortises Fe$tool Domino is out of the question unless I'd get a super deal on one. I don't see that happening. Same for a dedicated mortising machine. Super fast, though. I attended a Glen Huey seminar last spring and PopWood recently reposted an old video of his using the same technique. Basically a plunge router with a fence. I do see a lot of scorch marks on his faces. Matthias' Pantarouter is nice, but overkill for me. Thinking of making a sliding horizontal router jig, but have not looked up the pattern in a recent Wood magazine, or even sure I have it. I have a "Bead Lock" that I've used for a few things. It has inserts to drill the overlapping holes, then another to guide a chisel square. Maybe too slow for a large number of them. Stock gets expensive for a large number of them, and custom router bits to make the stock crazy expensive. Hand mortising, again, too slow (at least at my skill level) Then it occurred to me, my Shopsmith has a router chuck and I could use it to plunge out the mortises. Hmm. What to do, what to do? Are there other options I have not considered?
  8. Trying to save some money ....... I THINK. Is there a 1/2" collet and necessary accessories that will fit the B&D 11/4 hp, Type 1, CAT 7614 router(it still works great). I find no reference through parts lists, so that may be the answer. but woodworkers, like any other group of like minded folks usually find that way to adapt, improvise and overcome obstacles. OR, is it not worth the money to try adapting this old lunker. Regs, Tim
  9. I just stumbled upon a used ShopSmith router table where a router can be mounted under or over the table.
  10. New member here and in need of help ASAP. I have an old black and decker 1hp hand held router and can't seem to get the collet to release the bit, using two wrenches. When I hold a wrench on the bottom nut and try loosen the top nut on the collet the shaft spins and the collet doesn't loosen. Anyone have any advice??
  11. Ron Altier

    Oh no, router adj gone

    I have been working on a cross for my grandson's confirmation. I've cut and glued up some Yellow Hart and Purple Hart. Did some sanding and then to the table router, small table top from Sears. Set it up and started to adjust the height. Something fell out of the adjustment and it all came apart. It is old, but i liked it. I found a spring and during reassemble, I lost the spring, e ring and a gear. I know not where. I give up. I am thinking about a Porter Cable replacement, I don't want any more Sears tools. And so it goes.
  12. Is there a link or can someone give me information on a good Wood Router. I'm looking into building a router table and mounting it so I can make kitchen raised door panels and more. Or your own personal experience with a good router. How big a router I would need.
  13. I inherited from my dad a Black and Decker 7614 Router, Type 1, 1-1/2 HP, 25,000 RPM, 9.0 amps, that runs exceptionally well. I would like to find a Straight and Circular Guide that fits this router. Any suggestions on a Black and Decker or any other brand that might be a fit?
  14. Good morning all. Was working on some fluted columns for my daughters house yesterday with a Bosch 1617EVS router. I turned the router over (plate up) and swapped out the bit. Now when I plug in the router and go to switch it on, it does nothing. I know there is power getting to the tool and can state with 100% certainty there is no way this machine should be worn out. So two things; I'm now in the market for a new router so any thoughts on a good replacement? I've been happy with Bosch in the past, but based on this router not sure I would buy another one of their products. Second, anyone have experience sending in one of these to be fixed? Is it expensive? I really don't want to spend $100 plus to get this one fixed when a new tool can be purchased for a bit more. Thanks.
  15. Before I fall into the Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor I thought I would ask here. My router has variable speed. Does anyone have a good formula or memory jogger as to when to use which speed? I did a little round over work this past weekend and discovered all the cuts with the grain were smooth and crisp and all the across the grain cuts were burnt. Maybe it's the operator's head-space and timing issue.
  16. John Morris

    CNC Router Plans

    A great website to get your feet wet for the DIY CNC router builder, and free plans!
  17. John Morris

    CNC Woodworking

    After reading @Steve Krumanaker blog on his laser, it has interested me greatly, but on the cnc router level. But Steve's blog really got me thinking on this. Been looking at CNC Router home made plans and there is a whole community out there for this type of do-it-yourself and they are very supportive of one another, very open source, free plans, open source software, and just a neat community altogether. Thanks Steve for showing me.
  18. Last night I had just started to run a large batch of cutting boards over the Router Table to round over all the edges. As I got a few done the router speed started fluctuating and then the shop lights flickered and then the router stopped. I checked inside the router table cabinet and did the typical checks on the power, saw dust build up and such and found that the power and outlet were fine as I could plug in something else and it would work. So it was definitely a router issue. I had this happen once before a few years back and it was caused by dust build up. So I got the router out of the table and pulled off the covers for the switch and motor and blew things out. So looking at the motor and the schematic in the manual, I found that the motor was indeed fried. The router is a Freud 3.25HP beast which I bought back in 2007 from Rockler as they had them on sale and I had a coupon and I got a killer deal on it. It has been a real workhorse all these years and I have ran hundreds of cutting boards as well as many children's rocking chairs and the plethora of other projects that needed rabbits, dados, edge details, pattern making and other fun stuff and it just plowed through it all without even breathing hard. Fortunately for me I have a back up router set up in the extension of my table saw that is set up for my trusty Porter-Cable 690 so I was able to get the cutting boards all routed. But now I have to look into getting a new one for the router table. I would like to get another 3.25HP router, but may just step down to a 2-2.5HP model. I will also have to get a new router plate for it as well to fit my table.
  19. Cliff

    a bookcase begins

    I am starting a bookcase This is the beginning of the base unit and I've finally taken a short vod of my slot mortising machine / milling machine.  The head tilts the power head is a Triton plunge router   The miller Some components of the bookcase   little tenons I can make 'em any size I need          
  20. Battle of the century!!!
  21. Yesterday my Freud 3.25hp router that I have had for 8 years died. So I did some research on routers and have a budget of $350 to get a new router and a new mounting plate for the router table. Being that this router will be only for router table use and not hand held use, and that I really wanted a router with adjustments from the top through the plate, I had few options. So I decided on the Triton 3.25hp plunge router with through the plate and the price for the router and a new plate to fit the router and my table out the door was $330 from Rockler. I got it home and spent a couple of hours getting it all set up in my router table and running some test pieces of wood and it works great. I really like the top adjustment and it works great. When you raise the router up to change bits it automatically locks the spindle and you use a single wrench. So hopefully the Triton will be as good as the Freud it replaced.
  22. Well, lots of problems to fight through today. Door has been fine tuned to fit it's new home. Involved a lot of handplane work, I centered the panel to get rid of the gaps, then pinned it place. Was going to use the router to edge the sides and top with.....Could not get that #$@#$ collar out of the fixed base. Ok, we have ways.... Since I had bought this as a kit, I had a plunge base with it. Look right below the left handle, there are two plugs there. Matched the grain exactly between the plugs and the spot where they went. Pared off flat, sanded smooth( dried glue is a bear to get off planes) Got some cleats installed, and installed a floor, of sorts.. Didn't have enough plywood, so I hope this will do? Last two corner blocks were installed, with glue & screws.. And I cut some slots in all four of them. Easy enough to do, just drill a through hole, then rock the drill back and forth until a slot shows up. Reaching inside to screw the backtwo corner blocks in place was...interesting. Good thing the screw held on to my driverbit. Got the door hung, adjusted, and a handle on board. Rounded the corners of the top with a beltsander. Could have used the sabresaw, but the blade would deflect too much. Installed the handle on the door. Set this thing up on the bench, run the router around the sides I could get to, lift the beast up, roatae 180* and do what was missed. And ( drum roll, if you please) a PIP of this Enad Table in Oak I even made a sample, for the Boss to lok at, of a coat of BLO....it looks a bit on the light side. Up to her. Have it sitting beside her chair right now. Kind of leaves an empty feeling... Been awhile since I've seen that much open space.... Awaiting Boss' orders on what to finish it with, then I might post as a Project, IF anyone wants...
  23. Yep, drawer Wars. As in, a fight to the finish between me and that evil dovetail jig. Fought to get the router set up, fight to get the jig set up. Fight to get two drawers to go together..... The Jig in use I figure at least I could try to do both drawers at the same time.. Not the greatest of fits, Got the sides and front ripped and planed to size, then this mess starts up. Well, coping saw to close a few gaps. BIG ball pean to close others. Getting late Well this morning, I moved that jig out of my sight, needed to room on the bench. Drawer sides were almost 3" too long. Trimmed them for length. Ripped and crosscut a board to get two pieces for backs, and set them aside. Set up another router, hoping it would do it's job. Needed grooves for the plywood bottoms. Set up the fence and the height of the bit. Then hunted for the cord to plug the router into. Yep, that $23 router table and router. Had the bottoms cut to size and even sanded it a bit. Needed that to check on the width of the groove. Took a second cutting. Then two clamps, and a bunch of glue for the front, and some glue and screws for the backend. Once I had found how wide the back needed to be. One screw to hold the bottom to the back, two on each corner, The doveatils were on their own, though sat the completed drawers in their new homes, once I figured out which went where. Needed to make something for them to slide around on. Some OLD 1x2 strapping, with the staples removed, four pieces were cut. Drilled three pilot holes in each. Set one end even with the front runner/stretcher, and finger clamped it in place. Set the combo square to set the height for the rest of the runner, three screws, and some Elmers. Finger Clamps? By Visegrip of course.. This was after the fourth runner was added. Next? Well, the BOSS wanted a cabinet on one end, so Had some extra plywood and some cleat stock sitting around, cut one panel for the drawer end. Had to notch for the runners, as the front one would be where a few screws would wind up. Panel is a bit shy of full width, by a 3/16" or so. Screwed to the legs and the front runner. One end is done, needed a back as well. It needed a cleat or two, but it is now in place And have added a cleat for the other side panel...that I still need to cut out. Then maybe, just maybe, build a DOOR for this thing? I am thinking this will be more for "Cookie Sheets and the like" and might not need a shelf inside. Don't think shelf pins will hold in 1/4" ply, anyway. Still have to final fit the drawers, and sand them to paint grade ( Guess who wants to paint it?). Even found two Kanoobies that match the ones in the kitchen! Have until Thursday afternoon to get something else done. On Med Leave right now...
  24. steven newman

    Shaker Table...top got made

    Weeeell, one of THEM days..... Figured out I needed three boards, 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 25" to have enough for a glue-up to make the top. Dragged the 1x6 down to the shop, made a few cuts with the old circular saw. Had enough left over to make the back apron, one of the few good things to happen today. Left the boards to cook in the clamps awhile. Brought a couple legs over, and figured out the two side aprons. Got those cut, and stacked over with the back apron, Also cut the drawer front. Took a break for awhile. ...... Ok, time's up, time to surface the top. Found a couple marks that just had to go, though this and a neon green crayon mark. Hmm, sand them off? Nah, we have ways of dealing with this.. A Stanley #70 Label scrapper plane. Notice that the black brand is gone? Got after the surface with a few other planes. From the 22" long Try plane down to the #3 sized #122. Marked out for a bread board edge's tongue Set up the Wards #78 To cut each section of the tongue. About...1/2" wide, maybe 1/4" deep. More of them dang knots, too. Anyway, here is what it looked like when done Next, found some 1x3 that needed planed down a bit and cut to length. Cut two sections with a high tech mitre saw GEM mitre saw. 18" backsaw did not take very long to make the cuts. And this is where I should have stopped for the night....but Those two 1x3s needed a groove to match the tongue. I thought to use the old Plough Plane to cut the 1/4" wide grooves. Set things up, tried different ways to hold things in planes. Plane was not helping matters. Setting won't hold, iron won't cut, stuff getting knocked around.....#@#$#@@#!! Plane went flying to parts unknown, never to return. Dragged out the Craftsman router, dug up the edge guide, and even found the 1/4" bit! First jig....still hitting the guide fence. That part of the jig joined the plough plane in exile... Finally, a bench dog along one side, a drywall screw head at the end of the board, with a second one along the guide side cutting barely into the part. Three passes to get the right depth AND a centered groove. After a few test fits.. I'll fit the second one tomorrow, I am dry as a .... and plain tuckered out. Maybe tomorrow I can try to get the aprons and the legs to go together? Stay tuned, it going to get battier...
  25. Fred Wilson

    Project for Router Guys

    Hey, Router guys - found a neat project for ya - if anyone tries this, I hope you will post pictures Can you imagine a wooden chain made from different species of wood???? Check out the video to see how. A Router Chain

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