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Showing results for tags 'warp'.
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Hey everyone,got a good question?how do fix warped cedar,I have an old cedar chest my parents left me and the top got wet an warped the wood top,now it looks like a pirates chest LOL,need ideas on how to un warp it
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yup I got some ideas about bending and turning. . First though is a big bowl I started and then put away to dry and it warped so badly that I can't turn it right. So I'm going to try to unwarp it. The box is huge 24" on the side but it's knock down the clamps are just so I can carry it around to get some paint on it. The paint is just so i can see my magic marker well . HERE it is collapsed for storage
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Been working on my first chess board. Made from 5/8" Maple and Mahogany. Glued to a 1/2" MDF Backer. Turned out great. Made the frame for it out of bass wood. About 5 days between making the frame and ready to glue up the frame to the board. In the mean time, the chess board has begun to warp. ! ! ! ! All grains are lined up (didn't think about crossing the grains of the pieces for the board. Warping is almost 3/8" from end to end. Afraid to glue up the frame to the board as it might also warp the frame. Does anyone know how I can get the warp out of the project ? ? ? ? ? This one has me stumped. The only thing I can think of at this point is to sand off the MDF and find 1/2" plywood and try glueing it up cross grained. Even thought about a steam iron. Help
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Our wood turning club meeting is today and the demo is my responsibility. I am doing a Glenn Lucas project(sort of) a "traditional Irish platter". I downloaded his video on it a year ago or so. Over the last few weeks I've turned probably 10 platters while practicing, editing notes, etc. etc. Most of the ones I've turned are from plain soft maple and are nothing special. I wanted to do one out of a nice piece of wood and had a walnut platter blank just had some really nice grain in it. Moisture meter said it was ready so I went after it. This piece of wood fought me through the whole process. There were a couple areas that no matter what I tried there was still tear out. Tried sheer scraping, stiffening the fibers with finish and/or oil. Push cut, pull cut, sharpen tools, no matter, there was just tear out. Eventually, I had taken so many cuts, thickness became an issue and I couldn't follow the profile of Glenn's design. Still, after MUCH sanding it looked pretty nice I thought. It had everything, some really nice feathering from a crotch and it just glowed. I could tell it moved a little while turning but I wasn't worried. I'd left a decent raised rim on the bottom and the very center was mortised. After finishing, it just kept moving and moving. You can see it a little in this picture This picture gives a better idea just how much this piece of wood moved. It has a serious cup and I have to say "this platter rocks" LOL. I will still take it for my demo. Glenn actually talks about where to get a platter blank from a log and what can happen otherwise. This will illustrate his point nicely I think. Steve
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Once the legs were completed, I started on the aprons and stretchers. The stretchers are to be mortised and tenoned into the legs. The long stretcher needed to be securely fastened into the side stretcher but their thickness was only 3/4 ". That meant a very short tenon (1/2") on the ends of the long stretcher. I decided, mistakenly, to use a fox tenon and a dovetail style mortise, with tapered sides and wider at the bottom. It took a little work to get the mortises chopped. I even had to make a small measuring tool to determine the width of the bottom. My inside calipers were just a little too big. Next, I calculated the wedge size and then modified the tenons to accommodate the wedges. My mistake here was failing to take into consideration the amount of spreading vs. the hardness of the wood. Fortunately, I had the foresight to try a test piece and discovered as the tenons halves spread, they cracked at the shoulder. Insert a long string of Navy language here. Back to the drawing board. Early on in the project I had considered using a sliding dovetail for this connection. Hindsight being what it is, that's what I ended up using. The other failure, at this stage was when I ripped the materials for some of the aprons. The wood was plenty dry but internal stresses caused the some warping and twisting of several pieces. Allowing the pieces to set for a couple of days only made matters worse. I ended up ripping more pieces and then creating the tenons. Used a stop block/miter gauge to create to shoulder cuts Then the old Delta tenoning jig for the cheek cuts And finally nibbled away the remaining material to complete the apron and stretcher pieces. I cut all of the tenons a little over sized so I could trim them to get a really snug fit during assembly. The minister said this table would serve multiple duties. I wanted to be sure nothing would work loose over time. All that's left for the base, I hope, is a final dry fit and then a glue up.
