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Found 26 results

  1. I have some ideas on doing this but thought there may be a easier way. I am taking down a bookcase 36 x 52 and making it a fold up display to make portability easier. Now what I am doing is a fixed frame about 2 inches deep to mount the folding shelves. Then the folding side supports will hold these up twhen the case is setup. Now what I am working on is the pins to pivot the shelves on . With this pivot the shelves fold flat and the side then fold onto them to make a package about 4 inches thick. I was going to use solid pins set into the shelf and frame at construction making them permanent. However construction would be simpler and adjustable if I could screw pins in from outside the frame. Any ideas on a way to accomplish this?
  2. Hi, I’m back looking for more advice. My nephew is autistic. My SIL (sister-in-law) showed me a picture of an awards shelf from a catalog and asked me if I could make one for Nino (nephew). He is active in the Special Olympics, and has lots of medals to display. Basically simple, maybe a 3 foot long x 3/4x 16 inch back board, with 2 side brackets, and a top shelf across. 24 pegs, staggered for the medals to hang on. I can do this, My question is-I’m thinking of using pine for this, the local Lowes has some really good, no knots, pieces. I have some cherry stain left over from last years mangers I made. Any issues staining pine? Sand it down to 220, glue/assemble, stain?
  3. Years ago I made a cabinet for a local customer, who became my friend. I have the cabinet in our gallery here. I put out the call on Facebook to see if any of my local buddies had a truck leaf spring I could have to build a Froe with. My buddy who I made this cabinet for answered back with a big yes. He is restoring his 1942 Ford Jeep he's had since he was a teen and he purchased new springs. He's 69 years old today. My son and I went over to his home this morning to pick up my leaf spring and while there I found the cabinet I built right where I installed it a few years ago. Just thought I'd take a couple pictures of it this morning and show it off here, I still love this piece. This project was one of those times I really hated seeing one leave my shop. He collects Pewter Molds among many other interests. Curly Maple purchased from Bob Kloes Lumber, dyed with Transfast Colonial Maple, one coat of BLO, one coat of shellac, and one coat of oil based varnish. I don't remember the cut of shellac I used, and I don't remember the varnish brand.
  4. Well, was looking for a small project to use up the left over Pine...Had a 1 x 8 that seemed to be long enough...and cut up a 1 x 6 for a couple curvy legs... Notched to fit over the backsplash...nothing real fancy, as it will get painted, anyway....had a second notch to cut.. To fit around the window sill. counter-sunk screws, and a bead of glue...again, nothing fancy...maybe an hour of shoptime... Spent as much time going back and forth from the shop to the kitchen...as the building... waiting on the paint, now.
  5. Friends son has expressed a interest in woodworking. As Ralph cannot nail two boards together he asked could I give his son some shop time and see where this leads. I suspect this was to keep him from investing a lot of money on something that was nothing more than a passing interest. Brent, his son, came over for a few nights and I mapped out what I needed for a storage bin. Sat him down and asked him to draw out details. He got the basics and then set about finding scraps I had of plywood and set to the task of making this storage bin. Learned all about each machine before I let him touch it. I won't cover in a short description near what he and I went over but he learned about a few types of joints, how to attached edge banding to boards both with pin nails and just glue. Lots of mistakes we had to fix or just cover up. Finishing was frustrating for him, but hey we got to start somewhere and this is a shop fixture not a frame for a painting at a museum. More than once he gave me this look of why not fix this. Had to point out to him that along the way I referenced several shop fixtures that had mistakes. Yeah, I use them for reference as well. Normally I am not much for company in the shop so this was a bit out of my comfort zone. But with today's educational system in the state that it is where else can he explore this skillset. He installed this evening while I worked on a fixing a drawer for the neighbor. Not bad, not Tal Mahal either but hey it works, is well built, as in plenty of glue and screws, and has plenty of coats of poly. Bit shiny but I let him have at it explaining as we went how to improve. Still have to do some touch up work on the insert for the brushes but I have time. Oddly his favorite part was removing a section of the pegboard wall and installing a stud and bracing where one was not. Only had one available stud to attach to because some moron built this garage with 24 inch centers..... So now he wants to build a back shed for his Dad's lawn equipment this summer.
  6. I ordered the Shopsmith accessories shelf last Sunday and it arrived yesterday. I am very happy with this new addition to my SS. I could have made one, but I did not want too, plus I wanted the factory fit and finish with the CNC slots for many of the basic accessories for my SS. The shelf is made of solid Pine at 1 1/4" thick, very sturdy. It bolted up to the lower legs very nicely. I am impressed with the SS quality thus far, all the way down to this shelf. My small things were starting to get scattered in my work area as I am completely unorganized right now, and I needed something quick to organize before I started losing "stuff". This did the trick, very pleased with it.
  7. Started on this back in the summer and had it shelved til some other things got done. Son bought a new house in NC and Dil wanted shelves to match stair rail. So we went and found this mahogany 14 foot by20 inch by 2. Had to cut it to get into his suburban. Then I get the"privilege" to bring it home to work on. Took them til last month to decide on shelf brackets . Yes I am making those too. Ordered the stain that was used for existing Cabot mahonany flame in the old oil formula ( read the new is WB and not good). It is labeled outdoor use only, must be a CYOA. So got the stain on today and waiting for decision on clear. The second pic is prototype bracket.
  8. As some of you know, my sister has made it her life's work to make sure I get to heaven- fat chance! This time, she has me making a tithe box and shelf for her minister's church. I worked with him thru emails and Sketchup drawings to get the approval on the design/materials/hardware. The box is 1/2" thick birch and walnut stock with hand cut dovetails. Top and bottom are mounted in dados. The top is flush with the sides and the bottom is slightly recessed. The shelf is 3/4" birch plywood with shop made walnut edging. The hardware is a half mortised lock and a 110° stopped piano hinge. The minister has someone in the congregation do the finishing. The box is about 14" L x 7" W x 6" H. I did hit the walnut with mineral spirits to see what the grain would look like with finish- Thanks for looking!
  9. Starting a new project a head shaped bookshelf made from red oak. The customer could not find anyone that would even consider doing this project for him. I got the design finalized and emailed the itemized bid to him and I was kind of hoping my bid would scare him into not doing the project but all he said was do you want half to start. This is the design he accepted. It will be about 3 1/2 feet wide, 5 1/2 feet tall and 11 1/2 inches deep.
  10. From the album: DerBengel's Scrapbook

    I decided the space above the sink could use a shelf and I decided to use plumbing instead of normal brackets. A typical bracket would take up too much length not allowing clearance for my tall bottles. I used 2 1/2" floor flanges, 2 10" nipples and 2 end caps. Just cut a board to size and made a permanent home for a few items.

    © © Cindy Trine

  11. I was recently contacted about building a Walnut vanity and a Walnut Shelf to fit over a range hood. So so I was sent these two pictures and ask if I could do these. So I got started by gluing up several boards to make the vanity 24" deep and 41 3/4" wide. The boards are 1 1/4" thick and a piece is glued on the front to give it the appearance of being 2 1/2". finish was applied this week and it was picked up today to install. The Shelf is 1 1/2" thick 7" deep and 32" wide. It to was picked up today and installed. So i can now mark this one off the list and move on to the next one in waiting. I love it it when a plan come together.
  12. steven newman

    bottom shelf detail

    From the album: Pine Kitchen Island

    A look at the bottom shelf ( Mountain Dew Storage). Had to BUY some 1x3 pine. Made a rebate with a Wards #78 rebate plane to house the 1/4" thick plywood panel. There is just a thin (1/8") lip around the edges, to hide the plywood's end grain. Glue and brads to attach.
  13. Getting a bit closer to the finish line, now. Got the top all fsatened down. But, it didn't go without a fight... Made some cleats, one for each end to also act as kickers for the drawers and one for across the center. Hmmm something a little off here...ok. Put the top top down on the bench. Put the base into place....ah, base is "racked" a bit. Got the center line set, and added a screw through the cleats ( and, it turns out, right on through the top..oops) then grabbed a long clamp. set at a diagonal, the idea is to pull the "long" direction back into square. Well almost. And then, after grinding the screws a 1/2" shorter and making skinny pilot holes, screwed the rest down. Cleats were screw and glued to the aprons, a ;look at the mess? The center cleat. Note on the apron where two holes are? Counter-bored to accept plugs later( Walnut, Cherry, or Pine?) The cleat on an end? Ah, three holes? well, when the center strips out, one adds a few more. Someday, this shop will have the right sized screws for the job, maybe. Flipped the unit up on the bottom stretchers Looking a bit better? The ugly hole will get a drawer in it later, I HOPE. Anyway. with the unit sitting up where I can actually work on it, and see what I am doing. Needed to size, at least roughly, a plywood panel. Tape measure to find the length and widths. A 4' level as a straight edge ( works good, as long as it doesn't MOVE on you) and get out a vintage saw or two... Yep, an all metal Sears Craftsman 7-1/4" saw. Sitting on the off-cuts. Never mind that can... Needed to cut notches, though, as the legs wanted to "intrude" on things Took the now sized panel and marked where the notches will be Once all four were marked up, clamped the panel back down to the bench, again. And grabbed yet another "Vintage saw" When was the last time B&D made an all metal sabre saw? Ok, got the four notches cut And tried a test fit.....hmm, straight edge must have moved? Needed to scribe a line from 1/4" down to zero along the one edge. Clamped the panel back onto the bench, circular saw to cut the line. Another test fit....will work, IF I set it in a certain way. Filled the rebates with Elmers, set the panel in....and reset the panel in, Hammer to persuade things a bit. Nailed the panel down with 5/8" brads held with needle nose pliers ( aka finger savers). Then a palm sander to sand the plywood a bit as it was rough. Went over all flat areas with a sander and 60 grit squares. Looking a little better, now and added some feet to the legs To save the kitchen floor. Next up? Well, after all that dust settles, might try my hand at drawer making......stay tuned to this Very Batty Channel.....
  14. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    Young Patriot Woodworkers, they are not ready to see this one leave our shop. As with any project that takes time, it becomes part of the family, and the kids always hate to see it leave the shop.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  15. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    The customers pewter molds on full display. The pewter molds are one area of his vast collections of antique in his home. These molds were used to make breads, bread puddings, and puddings, in the shape of the molds.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  16. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    The curls are wonderful in this lumber, thank you Bob Kloes.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  17. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    In place at a home where the resident loves colonial works, and this piece fit right in.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  18. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    The cabinet in place at its final resting place, with pewter molds in place. You'll see the tails are cut into the side of the cabinet and exposed, I set the tails on the side of the cabinet to lend it downward strength, the mechanics of the joinery will not allow any weight to push down and separate the corners.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  19. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    Finished and ready for delivery. My go to finishing schedule for most of my flat work is water based dyes for color, followed by a coat of boiled linseed oil, then oil based varnish. I still love the warmth and glow of oil based varnishes, it has a warmth that I love.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  20. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    In all my work, I always make the unseen areas just as finished as the seen areas, I think it makes it more custom and refined when you can look all over the work, and see a finished side instead of unfinished.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  21. John Morris

    Built Up Crown Molding

    From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    The crown is built up, by using traditional methods of building crown, just as it was done the old days, they did not have power nor molding knives, so just as they did, we did, by shaping each facet of the crown as an independent piece, then applying them on top of each other.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  22. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    After the shelf was assembled I shot the customer some progress images, I put a nice Lie Nielsen No.4 Bronze on the second shelf along with a couple of his pewter molds in the cabinet. The joinery used for this project was sliding dovetails for all shelf's to side wall joints, and dovetailed carcass corners.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  23. From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    This image was supplied by our customer, he wanted us to capture the feel of this 18th Century English China Shelf. He saw the shelf at auction, the auction was taking place in Europe, but he thoughtfully realized that the cost of the shelf, including shipping to the states, was getting a tad high, so he sought us out as we had done work for him in the past, and thought of us as his builder. And we are glad he did, we had a blast making it. I used the image to scale the shelf, considering his desire to make it 48" wide by 40" tall, I was able to scale it out on grid paper and duplicate much of the details and the proportions.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  24. Last week we wrapped up our pine cabinets and the final coat of pain on them, and final rub down of the interior shellac finish. That weekend I was able to get the cabinets installed with the butcher block counter tops over the lower base and over the washer and dryer. Here a couple links of the cabinet build from an earlier time. Pine Cabinets Shaker Style Part 1 Pine Cabinets Shaker Style Part 2 How to Make an Adjustable Sawtooth Shelf System Photo below is the upper cabinet, doors yet to be installed. I like to back my cabinets, most folks do not. They'll leave the backs off leaving the wall behind exposed. I don't like seeing walls, I like seeing something really nice behind the dishes and glassware, in this case it is being used for storage in a wash room, but I'll still pay the same attention to detail, Photo below, I just set one of the doors in place so we could see what is going in. I cut the doors the exact same dimensions as the openings, then I planed each one down to fit exactly in its assigned opening. The doors are inset flush so the reveal (gap) around the door had to be perfect, if not it stands out like a sore thumb. There are advantages and disadvantages to the inset door, as mentioned, the reveal has to be perfect, but the advantage is easy hinge application, in this case I used colonial style butterfly hinges surface mount. Photo below, the two main cabinets installed, the lower and upper along with the butcher block counter top. These are shown with out any trim-out to hide the unsightly gaps at the ceilings and walls, where the drywall is undulating. I trimmed it out with 1/4" by 3/4" strips of wood. Very simple, no crown, the entire home is Early American, the customer is an antique collector and loves simplicity. Photo below, butcher block counter over the appliances. I routed in some 3/4" dadoes at the bottom ends of the counter tops and secured cleats to the side walls, the counter tops are sitting on those cleats, I was able to get the counter top virtually on top of the washer and dryer by routing in those dadoes and resting the top on the cleats in that manner, also since the top is only resting on the cleats, it can be removed for appliance service if need be. Since these photos were taken, I have installed all the trim, back-splash's at the sink cabinet and the appliance counter top, the doors are installed, and it looks very nice. I also built onsite the upper cabinet over the appliances above the window two weeks ago, and I'll need to go back and install the door for that cabinet, at that time I'll get some finish shots, it looks awesome right now. Thanks for hanging in there!
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