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Showing results for tags 'router'.
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I'm having trouble with my router Plunge Locking Lever not fully locking. There is nothing in the manual for repairing this is there a solution somebody can give me? Thanks Pat -
To make those shallow rabbets, here is the tool you can make yourself.
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Thanks to being in too big a hurry. Grooves off-center, tenons not centered or square. More cracks and gaps than a Plumber's College. Dug around, found a 3/8" straight cutter bit for the router. Re-set the fence as well Re-cut ALL the grooves i had made up. Then went to work on those tenons. Do have a few test fits going on. Will try to post a few pictures tomorrow.... HATE RE-WORK!
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I had to get a bunch of shelf-pin holes in the current cabinet I'm building. I used to use a piece of pegboard. a drill bit, and some masking tape. I threw out the particle board when I moved. So I looked into something a little more professional. Kreg only did 5mm and I have a bunch of 1/4" supports in stock. Rockler had a bunch of options, most of which need a special self-centering / depth stops. Well, then I found this one on half-price sale for the price of one of the drill bits. And it works for both 5mm and 1/4" pegs. It also seemed to make cleaner holes with my mortising bit than with the drill bits. Used it today and did 140 holes, 5 at a time. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-shelf-pin-routing-jig
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From the album: Router table / cabinet drawer mounted
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From the album: Router table / cabinet drawer mounted
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From the album: Router table / cabinet drawer mounted
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From the album: Router table / cabinet drawer mounted
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From the album: Router table / cabinet drawer mounted
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From the album: Router table / cabinet drawer mounted
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I am not in the market for a router table, I sold mine last fall, don't need one, but I just thought I'd share my amazement with what Shopsmith has available for our machines. I did not know they made a router table, very cool. Anyone own one? @Artie ? http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/rm_routertable.htm -
I took the saw off the Dewalt radial arm and built a plate to hold a router. Next I used a geared down forward-reverse motor and put it in the place of the hand crank back on the top rear that use to raise and lower the saw. I then mounted the forward -reverse switch under the table in front so I could raise and lower the router with my knees as I held the wood I was working on... So instead of on and off, it raises and lowers the router.. I quickly learned I needed some help so I wouldn't forget which knee made it go which direction...the reason for the up and down on each side... The glove is there to keep my head from banging on the end of the arm while concentrating on what the router and bit is doing. This set up did take away trying to free hand a router on certain task...
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It worked great for regular size routers then made a larger size hole for the Porter Cable big dog. And it had a slight vibration with that much horse power.. I think I made this in about 2003. I saw this contraption in a popular mechanics many years ago. All it takes to build is some smooth rods, a few pieces of all thread and some nuts and bolts. But this is my most used router and how it is mounted I will not sell this idea to anyone.. You will have to come up with your own invention. Its not near as expensive to build one of these setups..This one I noticed is leaning a little but that don't cause no problems... I do wear my heavy leather gloves when in use... I have it mounted on my 12" table saw....
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It's been years. I have put up with a cluttered sloppy mess of bits in pill bottles poly wrappers making this drawer a complete unworkable disaster. Finally I got fed up with the madness and drilled a few holes in a hunk of ply I've seen People pooh pooh those router bit collections ( see the ones in red) I bought one for 30 sumpin bucks at a show and have never regretted it. I use the daylights outta them.
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What is the difference from a mortise router bit and a spiral up cut for box joints? Can they both be used to make a box joint?
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My first router table was an over-engineered bench top affair. (Ever hear the saying that an elephant is a mouse built to government specifications? Well, I'm that guy.) I didn't have a sophisticated system to store my bits, so I used empty prescription bottles. No way the plastic would damage the edge of the bit, the bit was protected from damage by contacting anything else in the box or drawer into which the bit was very carefully placed, , and the bottles were free. A piece of masking tape took care of labeling. Downside was that most of the bottles not transparent, so a lot of picking up and reading the label was involved. Worked good until I built my current router table, and started using blocks to hold each bit.
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Earlier this spring I made a few picks at yard sales and the "Flea Market Warehouse." Pictures were taken, but things got busy with the wreck, dealing with the that, kids activities, mowing, mower repair, more mowing, etc. well you get the idea... Anyways, since things are a little less hectic, a few more shots of the every growing "treasure trove." I'll try to be considerate and only post a couple threads a day less I bore you...Thanks for looking. These items were in the Craftsman Router case below...$2...I've hidden the router plate inserts from myself since this picture...could use them since I misplaced the ones that came with my router table The Massey-Ferguson magnetic clip was an extra 75 cents. It's from an area dealership from back in the 60's-70's...compliments my John Deere smalls collection I had an old school Craftsman router which needed a case...fit perfectly in this one...it also needed the base and collet wrench This collection set me back $13.25 with tax. Like new, 1/4" drive Craftsman ratchet, with full set of 1/4" deep metric sockets, the extension and a shallow well, 1/4" dr. 10 mm socket...The picture of them is after clean-up and time at the buffer; T-15 Craftsman driver...came in handy during the Jeep Ignition switch replacement; Kobalt 10" pipe wrench with minimal use; picture of it is after clean-up; a coupe more collet wrenches for ???; faucet wrench; the rust on the handle swing has been removed and polished since this; Stanley 3 pc chisel set minus the 1" The shaft stop collar has a 5/8" bore ID...I've used it in a couple of temporary fashions, but it became a valuable asset when I figured out how it could be used to repair a mower deck idler arm. I bought a couple more from the local Fastenal, welded to the idler arm and fixed a poor design, plaguing problem on my J.D. F510...Saved about $35 and works better. The stud is 5/16" NC threads with a 7/16" hex...I'll use it for something sooner or later. Will need a little work; the 3/4" might have been used to remove siding nails, IDK; other than the edges, both still have the protective varnish on the shafts
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Recently Infinity tools brought out a mutiradius router bit. It will cut 1/16" r.1/8" r.,, and 1/4" r.. Also 1/16+1/8r, 1/16+1/8+1/4"r. And a 1/4"bead,+ 1/8r., and a 1/4" bead,+1/8" r, +1/16'r. Also a 1/4" bead,+ 1/8"r, +1/16" bead. That is 8 different profiles and there might be more. I cut some test cuts in a piede of hard white oak scrap and it cut nice and smooth no burns. The the higher profiles I cut in some Doug fir 2X material. It cost $48. including shipping. ,which amounts to $6.00 per profile and maybe less,which is not bad. Here are some pictures, apologies for the blurry ones.
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I just stumbled upon a used ShopSmith router table where a router can be mounted under or over the table.
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New member here and in need of help ASAP. I have an old black and decker 1hp hand held router and can't seem to get the collet to release the bit, using two wrenches. When I hold a wrench on the bottom nut and try loosen the top nut on the collet the shaft spins and the collet doesn't loosen. Anyone have any advice??
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I have been working on a cross for my grandson's confirmation. I've cut and glued up some Yellow Hart and Purple Hart. Did some sanding and then to the table router, small table top from Sears. Set it up and started to adjust the height. Something fell out of the adjustment and it all came apart. It is old, but i liked it. I found a spring and during reassemble, I lost the spring, e ring and a gear. I know not where. I give up. I am thinking about a Porter Cable replacement, I don't want any more Sears tools. And so it goes.
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Good morning all. Was working on some fluted columns for my daughters house yesterday with a Bosch 1617EVS router. I turned the router over (plate up) and swapped out the bit. Now when I plug in the router and go to switch it on, it does nothing. I know there is power getting to the tool and can state with 100% certainty there is no way this machine should be worn out. So two things; I'm now in the market for a new router so any thoughts on a good replacement? I've been happy with Bosch in the past, but based on this router not sure I would buy another one of their products. Second, anyone have experience sending in one of these to be fixed? Is it expensive? I really don't want to spend $100 plus to get this one fixed when a new tool can be purchased for a bit more. Thanks.
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Before I fall into the Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor I thought I would ask here. My router has variable speed. Does anyone have a good formula or memory jogger as to when to use which speed? I did a little round over work this past weekend and discovered all the cuts with the grain were smooth and crisp and all the across the grain cuts were burnt. Maybe it's the operator's head-space and timing issue.
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I am starting a bookcase This is the beginning of the base unit and I've finally taken a short vod of my slot mortising machine / milling machine. The head tilts the power head is a Triton plunge router The miller Some components of the bookcase little tenons I can make 'em any size I need
