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Showing results for tags 'pen'.
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Got addicted to making pens when I got my Shopsmith. Don't recall seeing many on here so was wondering if anybody else has had to deal with the pen turning addiction. This one was for a swap on another site. Had to be made with construction grade pine as the main ingredient. The dark wood is cocobolo. I think. Got over this obsession when I acquired my Ringmaster and headed off down that rabbit hole.
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Perusing the www and looking at turning projects, and within our own community here, it appears the pen turning craze has subsided? I remember when we fired up our community here folks were turning pens like crazy, and that led to other craft items such as bottle stoppers, scoops and such. I loved seeing the pens and crafts folks were turning, was this a fad that has faded? Or do folks still turn pens and just not talk too much about it?
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From the album: Ernie's pix
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There are some programs out there that get turned pens out to the people currently serving in the our military. It was always on my bucket list to participate. I think some of the programs actually send the kits out no charge to be turned and returned for distribution. I happened to have a few kits on hand so I decided to just turn them and get them sent out to someone who could get them to the right people. They are on now in transit. These are mostly Cherry with a few Purple Heart and some Brazilian Cherry. The dark brown are from a dowel rod I purchased at a hobby store. I have noticed that the dowels hobby stored have are usually different species of wood but they are not defined as to what they are. Doesn't hurt to take a look when you are there if you turn pens. Anyway, here they are.
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Here's a chance for our turners to help make a difference in the life of a service person- Click on the above image for the complete details. You don't have to visit a Woodcraft store to participate!
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So tonight I decided to turn a couple of acrylic pen barrels since I just got a shipment in today. I also tested out a new camera for recording that was COMPLETE and utter trash. So I will be sticking with my iphone from now on. Either way I think I hit a few air pockets in the acrylic. It just wanted to chip I will leave the video from the turning in here. But the quality is NOT as great as my Iphone. Tomorrow I'll be starting off on some new bowl projects since those will get in. So I'll get to try out my new EWT Mid sized rougher. Can ya see the huge difference in the video with the Iphone and this camera. DONT BUY IT.
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Either way with all of the information I've gathered about pen turning, watching quite a few youtube videos on basics and assembly, I think I'm at the point where I can get a functional pen made. I was out in the shed this morning I got the pen barrels turned out sanded and 1st coat of stain on in less than an hour and a half. Which is pretty good considering. I'm doing this one as a test run since I'm out of brass inserts and parts which are on order but wont be here for a week or so. I think my main goal is to stick with this for now until I can accomplish the task of getting this right.
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I have never even thought of turning a pine cone. I saw this picture and was amazed. I think It looks like most of it is 2 part epoxy. Anyone ever turn one?
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Anyone can join in to this fantastic tradition since 2004. Walk into any Woodcraft Store and turn pens for our troops!- 2 replies
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I have been making pens with bullet shells and then went on to nickel plating them. After that I tried the same method with copper plating. It didn't work out as well as I had hoped. I decided to go with the original formula using copper acetate and distilled water. Success! Should not have varied from the theme. The pictures don't do them justice but believe me they look like a shiny new penny. I also found out that the copper goes over the grass well but does not go over the nickel at all. Here are the best I could get for pictures. Here are all three. Polished brass, nickel plated, copper plated.
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When making the .30-06 pen with the Zebra F-301 pen I start by taking the pen apart and removing the stainless tube. Take the pen apart and remove the tube with the logo on it. There is a detent on the tube so a half twist before pulling works best. I use a small pair of end nippers to grab the tube. I slide them into the hole the open pliers make and they clamp around the tube just enough to get it off. The lower ribbed part has to have 3.5 ribs turned down to fit into the shell where the bullet was. This makes the length right and the nib protrudes the correct distance when the clicker is pushed. Mount the drill chuck and hold the ribbed section in it while the ribs are turned off. The Easy Wood Tools Ci1 square cutter works wonders for this. Next pull the clicker piece from the top of the pen. Mount a 9/64 drill bit in the drill chuck backwards and push the clicker onto it. It is a loose fit and needs pressure from the tailstock to turn it without it spinning on the bit. I have a Oneway live center and found a pencil fits into it with the center tip removed. I put enough wraps of some plastic tape on it to keep it out a small distance and turn the clicker until the chrome is sanded off to the brass underlay. I start with 220 grit and sand through 400 grit and then polish with 0000 steel wool. Be careful not to get the piece too hot as the plastic will melt. For the pen nib I took a plastic dowel I had and turned the end until it fit inside the threads and used a pointed live center to hold it in place while sanding the same way as described above. A 5/16 wood dowel can be used as well. The end of the dowel should be perfectly flat. For the .30-06 shell I remove the primer and mount it in the chuck and take the letter "O" size drill to drill through the end. To mount it for sanding I took a 5/16 bolt that was long enough to have a shoulder above the threads and cut the head off. I took a nut and ran it up to the shoulder and tightened it with a wrench so the shell wouldn't slide between the nut and bolt threads. Might want to do that before cutting the head off so it is there to hold onto. Now it is time to put the pen together and write all the love letters you been meaning to write to your significant other. I took one of the pens and made a stick pen and holder. I ran a drill bit through the bullet end of a shell to get the crimp section straight and turned the rib section as described above until it was a press fit into the shell. Put it together and found the ink cartridge was too short. I found a nail that was a tight fit into the cartridge after removing the plug and pushed it in until the right length was achieved. I DID NOT remove the primer for this one. And there you have it. No rocket science involved and a nice pen has evolved. I've already made over 80 of them. Everyone loves them. Enjoy
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You guys helped me find pen parts from Berea Hardwoods, Now, if instructs says to press parts into wooden pen parts, do you use super glue on them?
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"Of course I have Plan.." Or so Boris always said. I took the time out today to do a bit of drawing on paper, using a pen and a straightedge. Resting the knee, of course. Anyway, I start with a few lines.. What you see here is the front edge of the corner post. The horizontal lines are webframes, with a face frame attached. . I will be using a couple 1x8 x8' planks to make the bottom two drawers. So that is where the 7-1/2" comes from. Face frames are dovetailed into the corner posts. Hashed lines show where the webframes sit behind the face frame. That little square is a Kicker, I add two to the undside of the bottom frame, and one in the middle of each webframe above it. After a while of doddling.. I come up with this...mess More to find out how long to cut the corner posts, and to get the spacings for the drawers. I also have to get a couple 1 x6 x8' planks, and a 1x4 x8' or two. Top will be a 4 /4 frame, with a plywood insert. I get one drawer out of each 1 x plank, and then add a 1/4" plywood bottom. All of this, to find out what size to cut four 4/4 x 3" posts. ( 42-1/2" long) So...about the sides these posts will make? Well, I mitre cut the foot. The Horizontal here is a rail/stile (?) that will connect the front and back posts at each spot where a webframe will be on the inside. I intend to use the sash cutter on the Stanley 45 to make a molded edge on the outside of both the stiles and rails. It will also give me a rebate on the inside. I can then add a plywood panel into the rebates. About five panels on each side. A tenon will connect into a mortise, the tenon on each end of the cross piece, and the mortise into the corner post. Page two also shows a few details of the webframes... Center piece is a kicker, to keep drawers from tipping down. Counter bores for screws, I can attach each webframe to a side with two screws. I can then come back after the case is squared up with a back, and add the face frame pieces. Dovetails on each end, and a line of glue to attach to the webframes. . Long time ago, IF I have all the lumber on hand in the old two car garage workshop on a Saturday morning.....by supper time that night, a chest of drawers would be completed, awaiting a finish on Sunday. Might take just a wee bit longer, now?
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I saw these at Woodcraft and just had to make one.
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Just got this pen done today
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Hi guys and ladies. For those that do not follow me on Facebook, I wanted to show something that I created for a friend. This is Corian, that is patterned to what looks to me like cream of wheat of some sort. It was sanded and polished, no other treatment (like CA) was used. This is mounted on a Slimline twist pen kit from PSI, which uses a Cross refill. It comes with a black ink refill, but you can probably get blue and maybe even red if you want it, from basically any office supply you frequent. Thank you for looking
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Well the historic wood pen turning project is moving along, slowly, but moving. Part of the deal was to make two special presentation boxes for those responsible for securing monies. The main turner involved doesn't have many wood working tools so the box making fell on me. No one had a plan as to what they wanted the boxes to look like. OK, I've made some boxes but I don't feel my skills are really up to what I think they should be for this type of project. Especially with this precious wood. My original design was to have the box larger, but the size of the beams and the number of defects, cracks and nail holes reduced it to around 4" x 7"x 1.5". The pieces are 1/4" thick. The old pine is very brittle but it still contained a surprising amount of sap. The number of knots would not allow me to use the planer and get this thickness, so I used my thickness sander. I had to clean the belt 3 time during the thicknessing process to remove the built up pitch. All of the dovetails are hand cut using a Japanese pull saw. The above picture show one of the "hinges". I used tiny cut nails salvaged from the original structure placed into pre-drilled holes. Right now they are just finger tight. The lid lift is also a little nail. I think this one has to be in a little deeper. I hate it that the round hole shows on the front. Although you can't tell from this picture, the bottom is thicker than the dado it fits into (bottom = 1/4" dado = 1/8"). About an inch of the perimeter is tapered to the edge allowing the fit. I'm not sure what to do with the inside. Maybe a couple of "U" shaped risers to hold the pen off of the bottom. Covering the interior would make for a nice contrast but it almost seems sacrilege to hide the patina. At this point, I am stumped on my next step. My original plan was to inlay a "Carpenter's Mark" in the outside of the top. I made an oval inlay pattern and cut a sample from some Poplar to see how it would look- I made certain I salvaged all of the carpenter's marks, before I made the pen blanks from the beam. Now, the problem. The pine is so brittle- even more so near the surface, that I fear the router inlay kit will splinter the the wood. To help strengthen the "mark", I covered the back of the piece with painters tape and saturated it with thin CA. I'll need to stop at Hobby Lobby tomorrow after school and pick up another bottle- thank goodness they send me 40% off coupons every week! So that's where I'm at, with this part- still needs more sanding! I was thinking about making the second box with a "pencil box" sliding lid.
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Hi Folks, Turning a lot of pens the last several weeks, I got to looking for the various ink refills, to offer on my site, and I am running into brick walls trying to find a wholesale source. It seems one can get the knock off, no brand, made in china refills for about 25 cents each (parker style ballpoint) or in excess of $5 each for carded singles. I looked at my normal sources but they dont post bulk discounts on refills. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Hi guys, i started on this project several days ago and just got it finished today. It is one of the pens I recently purchased a kit for that I hope will be a good seller for this time of year. The pen is quite heavy due to the wood used which is Bocote, but mainly because it is brass too. It's sure to get a few looks
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- antiqued brass
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Here is the first pen I have made from the surf gel blank. It was very hard and brittle but turned out well. Comments and such welcome.
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From the album: Pens
Showing off the other. side -
From the album: Pens
Sierra/Gatsby twist pen that I finished last night -
From the album: Pens
Side 2 from a slightly different angle.
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