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Showing results for tags 'miter'.
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With the club's long time charity deciding they don't want wooden toys any more, we needed to find a new place. One current place is the local children's hospital taking 30 small boxes a month for the patients to decorate while there and take home. So I started making some. The first batch (6 of them) was mitered corners with a sliding lid, used keys on the corners. Second batch (5) finger-jointed and solid top rabbeted. Looking for something a little more efficient in production. Third was a prototype with an inset lid held with a brass rod as pivot hinge. Ok, but finicky. Forth was today. Mitered corners and inset plywood top and bottom panel. Biscuits to reinforce the miter joints. I did another groove on the inside near the top. Then once the box was assembled and glue dried, did another pass with the 1/4" bit on the router table. This made a double rabbet to hold the lid in place. Saves having to do an inner layer insert. I'll do a run of these when I get some more lumber and plywood. I talked to a local furniture shop last week and they told me the set out their scraps on Monday afternoon for the trash man. I was there and picked some of their cutoffs from the scrap bin;. Most of it was 1/2" poplar, probably drawer sides. A bit of maple and some cherry. In another adventure, I got a bunch of leftovers from red oak flooring (one time find) . Well, started today to rip off the tongue and groove edges so I could do glue-up. Then I thought, hey, the ends are going to be hidden by miter joints, just use them to align the glue up and rip off only the top and bottom edges. Lesson learned. It appears that the groove side is slightly wider on the top than on the bottom. I'm thinking that's so the top joint is tight and the bottom does not matter so much. I got a lot of "cup" in the top that I needed to get out with cauls and now I looks like there's a gap on the bottom of that joint. Well, nice try. Wait for the glue to dry and rip them apart. On the other ones, I will try just trimming off a bit on the groove side to align it up.
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From the album: A Wedding Cross
24" by 24", it will have a top and bottom, the miters will be secured by glue blocks at the inside corners.- 1 comment
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- wedding cross
- walnut
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From the album: A Wedding Cross
Cross base with wrap around grain. -
While waiting for some finish to dry today, I decided to upgrade my 30 year old miter key jig that's starting to get worn. In addition, I read an article recently about making a jig to cut spline mortises in box corners. And I've admired using dovetail keys on corners. So off we go. Raided the pile of plywood cutoffs. Glue is still drying so the thru cuts will be done when I need to use them for the first time. (in my terminology, a key is across the joint line and is visible, so I use contrasting wood. A spline is inside the glue line and is not usually visible from the outside) One for keys that are straight. I can use a rip blade for 1/8" keys, or a dado set for something larger. One for the router table for straight or dovetail keys. I will remove the fence and the guides will slide in the miter gauge slot And one for stopped splines. Put down stops and drop the piece into the bit and side to the other stop.
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I thought I'd change the blade on my General 10" scms. Unfortunately when doing so I mistakenly disassembled the housing which houses the blade fence return spring. After hours of trying, I have yet to figure out how to reinstall that spring. Seems various brands have different set ups and after trying to get help on line, nothing matches my saw. I've seen what is supposed to be this model of my saw, but the spring configuration and setup is totally different . Please help!
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Some basic gluing videos by one of the PopWood survivors https://www.popularwoodworking.com/experts-guide-to-gluing-clamping-wood/?fbclid=IwAR02zssWUnzXJClxG3seSDmLnE8QffcD-ynNyC2a0KlaHm3xmq3kOVr7o5Y
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took a couple of pictures of this saw and miter box - still in the previous owner-built box. didn't see any marks on saw blade and the whole thing appears to be in fairly decent condition. have not priced and put on floor yet at the restore. someone will get a deal i suspect.
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Picked a Craftsman Miter box, for $5 at a barn sale. A bit on the rusty side, seemed to be a home for wayward spiders Lovely, ain't it? Sitting on my Saw Bench, too. Well, I took the saw itself out of the box/base. Took the tote off. Shined up the three bolts. Medallion just says CRAFTSMAN. Sanded the tote a bit to clean it off. Wire brush in the drill press to get rid of the top layers of rust on the plate. Brought the plate back out to the saw bench, hooked up a palm sander and some 220 grit. sanded down to bare.clean metal. Wasn't worried about any etch. Too rusty, and Craftsman used a silk screened logo. Set the pieces to dry a bit, since I used a pad of Never dull under the sander as a last step. Buffed that out. put the saw back together Yep, it is a biggie. 22" saw. Maybe 11 or more tpi. Looks a little better? Ok, next the base. Old broom to evict about ten resident spiders, and demolish their homes. Had a sprayer cleaner from odd lots, gave the base a good soaking down. Then a wipe down. Couple places had some rust going on, sanded that off. About time to put this saw back together Does look just a little better, don't it now. As for the base Yep, you can read every degree on that scale. Rollers work nice and smooth. Still learning about all the locks this thing has. The levers seem to lock the rollers in the "up" spot. That thumbscrew thingy seems to be some sort of depth stop? No, I haven't found a motor under there, nor a place to plug in a battery. Not too bad, for a $5 saw?
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My table saw is a 1947 Delta Uni and is extremely accurate. I had been using a digital Craftsman miter and it did the job well but I wanted to upgrade my miter. I looked at several Incra models as well as the new Kreg KMS7102 and after reading the Kreg reviews, I opted to buy it. The pricing wasn’t hateful at $140 and I was hoping that it would be as accurate and repeatable as promised. The assembly took about 20 minutes and wasn’t rocket science. There are 5 adjustable nylon set screws that you tension the slide in the miter slot to get a nice tight but movable fit. In my mind, the best option on this miter is a flip down stop that really makes short work of accurate and repeatable pieces. I cut 4 3” pieces of oak off the stop and checked the lengths of all four with a digital caliper. There was only .006 difference in the length of all four. I can live with that. The angle of the miter cuts is set with a pin that drops into a pilot hole. That is, you turn the miter to say 45 degrees, slip the pin in the pilot to secure the position and the lock down the miter. I cut a 22.5 and a 45 and checked them with a digital protractor. Both angles were spot on. The only potential negative that I can see is that you must be careful not to lose the brass locking pin. Or buy a spare. My final word on the miter is that it proves to be as good as the reviews and it is made in the USA. Another plus.
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Hi, new to this forum. Have been working on restoring hand tools and developing skills for a couple of years. Thought you might be interested in a project from last year. These Eleven Grooved Boxes are made, with the exception of preparing the original stock, entirely with hand tools. A big Stanley miter box, planes 4, 5 1/4, 18, two 45s, and a round side 606. Love them all.
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I found out about this MiterSet jig on another forum and had to get one. https://miterset.myshopify.com/pages/demo?AFF=41 Yesterday I tried it out and wish I would have had one years ago. It took me seconds to set the miter gauge and 5 minute max to cut and glue up a 7 sided polygon. There are formulas on the web if you know the radius they will calculate the length of the sides of any regular polygon. I worked in metric, it is easier to set up for say a 3.462" side by setting the stops on the table saw at 8.793 cm. https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-plane/polygon.php Don't worry about a "T" slot miter gauge as the MiterSet goes in the middle, it worked for my craftsman, Bosch "T" slot, and Incre 2000 too. the slot is .733 for a shopSmith but will fit just about any miter gauge. If the bar is a little worn it can be shimmed to one side with a thin shim, no biggy. Herb
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Got some Christmas money to spend-- Help Me
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- incra
- incra 5000
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I received my new Incra Miter today. My old miter had no slot adjustment and too much slop. It was also cheaply made. I decided to do the full adjustment cycle on the blade angle, blow and clean the adjustment screws, etc. The Incra was easy to set up and I did some testing and it was very accurate with simple adjustments. The slot adjustments seem OK, but cheaply made. After ripping some angles and checking them, I do like it. I was using a thin kerf Frued blade. When you cut angles or you really want very good close fit, is it better to use a thicker blade? I would see a very smooth area and then an area that showed some slight roughness Probably time for a new blade
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Anyone who has been wanting an Incra 1000HD miter gauge but balked at the $200 price tag here's your chance. Rockler has them on sale from 10/1 to 10/28 for $129.99. I bought mine about 5 years ago when they went on sale for under $100 and totally love it. With the adjustable miter bar it fits my 1986 Craftsman saw perfectly.
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