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Found 12 results

  1. So as I use my shop more and more I find myself using the Dewalt DWS779 sliding compound miter saw more and more for cutting my wood down to finished sizes. A prime example is while building the workshop stands and needing to cut the maple boards to finished length. What is questionable is the quality of cut the blade is giving. What is a good blade to use that's reasonable in price and quality to use on this 12" saw? I've been looking at a zero clearance plate for this saw as well to help. Suggestions?
  2. took a couple of pictures of this saw and miter box - still in the previous owner-built box. didn't see any marks on saw blade and the whole thing appears to be in fairly decent condition. have not priced and put on floor yet at the restore. someone will get a deal i suspect.
  3. I searched the site for ideas for dust collection on my compound miter saw station. I started work on a bandsaw blade storage rack yesterday and used the cms for the first time in a good while. It's a barely used Dewalt model DWS780 12 In. Double Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw, barely used because of the mess it was making and waiting on me to remedy the situation. My first inclination was to use the miter gauge and table saw but realized how ridiculous that was when I had a perfectly good tool well suited for the job right behind me. The table saw could do the job but not as safely or quickly as I needed angle cuts on small pieces. Anyway I've pondered this subject for some time and need to do something right or wrong. A bit of info, I have a 6" DC line at the station from the ceiling. My thought was that the sawdust would be collected from the top but now I think that's wrong. Gravity wins in all these cases. While the sawdust may be airborne for a short while it always falls to the base. While constructing a sanding box it dawned on me that maybe that's what I needed fro the miter station but on the top or bottom? Maybe both? I have that 6" DC pipe above and a dual 4" blastgate to run 2 separate 4" lines just like I did for my router table (fence and router enclosure) which works extremely well. On the miter station hood I have tapered the walls to allow full range of the saw but restricting the volume. The real question now is how to use the utilise those two 4" lines? Initially I was going to go from the top with a drop at each side but away from the corners. The problem with testing this is once you cut the holes there are there some testing is a bit of a problem. The hood is on top of course and the bottom of the cabinet is open at this point. The saw sits on the base that has 3/4" plywood and 3/4" MDF. I may have to install some stretchers as I think the width is 34". I have access from top and bottom and a 4" piece of PVC can fit behind the unit as it's 5-1/2" off the wall. I'd have to cut a square access in the back and then make a cover to clean it up after the pipe/hose is run. There's no way I'm moving that 16' station even with 2 people without disconnecting each piece. They are basically 4 base cabinets attached to each other with a wider mid cabinet for the saw. The opening in the hood for the saw has some heavier plastic cut into strips like the warehouses use as door curtains and solid panels where movement wouldn't restrict it to contain the sawdust while being flexible to allow the saw to be positioned as needed. So do we have any air dynamics experts here to solve the puzzle or for that matter anyone who has beat this beast? The DC is a CV1800 with a 16" steel impeller and a 5 HP motor. The installed unit is shown here and the next 2 pages. So for as much clarity as I can achieve I've uploaded another page on the miter saw station. Somewhere I may have stated it was 16' but in actuality it's 10'4" overall. Not sure where the 16' was, maybe the last fish I caught.... Anyway the miter station page is here Any suggestions would certainly be welcomed,thanks. -Steve
  4. We just got a new Makita LS1219L compound miter saw. Seems pretty nice. Replaced a not-so-nice DeWalt. Test cuts using the factory blade were surprisingly good. (Most factory supplied blades are not so good.) The 90 & 45 degree stops were dead on as it came! It has dust pickup from the blade guard and also from a funnel at table ht. The two connect together with the supplied Y connection but they don't include an adapter to fit shop vacs. I turned one, hooked it up and again was surprised at how well it picked up the dust. We will only be using it in the shop. At 65#s it isn't exactly portable, maybe on a wheeled stand.
  5. I was just down at Lowes to buy some epoxy and they Have a Dewalt 12" dual bevel sliding compound miter saw on sale for $399.00 and get a free stand with it. Seems like a deal if one needs it.
  6. Any commerical solutions that work at low cost for dust collection of my sliding miter saw. Also what are your homemade and proven dust collection for a miter saw solutions.
  7. OK, so today I listened to my wife and stopped at the new in my area Habitat for Humanity store. Well, I ended out getting a Rockwell 15 inch bench mount drill press (15 090) and a Dewalt 12 inch sliding miter saw. Here is where I am questioning my actions. The drill press runs fine with the exception of the quill return spring. The spring is missing. I did a quick check for one on the net and they want about $65. I'll check again and look for a used one. Other then that it works fine. Keep in mind that I already have 4 others and really don't need one. I only gave a quick look at the Dewalt and decided to buy it. When I got it home I noticed that the cord was not even present. Someone had cut it off right at the rear of the saw. What I originally saw was the rest of the cable as it snaked through the saw. So now I am questioning is it even works. I know it not a big deal to check I can just remove the existing wire and jump it. The saw was not sliding on the rails so I had to adjust and lube (OK, so not problem). I then noticed that the table was just flopping around so I disassembled the saw. What I found is the aluminum casting had been broken at the pivot point and no longer worked. So this requires some studying. I am thinking that I can do a decent repair by turning a piece out of aluminum or brass and make a press fit on one end and a running fit on the other. I will need to set both the table and base on the mill and bore the two pieces to ensure they are clean and perfectly round. I may be able to Lock Tite the upper table section to the new piece as it is pressed in. At least that is what I am thinking right now. I really don't want to spend any unnecessary money on this project. I guess the first thing is to make sure the motor works. This is another project that I really did not need. I already have 3 chop saws, but none are sliding. I have a radial arm, but it is hard to keep in alignment so I don't use this either. Its a good thing that I did not spend a lot of money, $50 total. I just did not need the additional work. I'll let you guys know how I make out. Paul
  8. I have plans to build a miter saw station, but it's pretty far down on the list. Anyone have one of these and/or comment on suitability? Not sure I could build one for $99 unless I get a lot of free material somewhere. https://www.ruralking.com/universal-miter-saw-stand.html?utm_medium=email&utm_source=2017-06-24+Product+Spotlight&utm_campaign=34450013&utm_contnet=34450013&_bta_tid=40394734835476410414092769078826458601265630212476166980842161197823536953237897877835910512335843805801
  9. I have a craftsman 10 inch compound miter saw (model MODEL NO. 137.212360 SN#041300896). A few weeks back i noticed that when adjusting the angle of the blade it was becoming increasing hard to turn the blade assembly whether it be to 45 degrees right or left. today I got motivated and disassembled the (part X3RS - TABLE) from the (part X3SS - BASE). There is a (part X3SQ - SLIDE PLATE) between the two. I noticed that it looks like the saw has been 'rubbing' one side of the slide plate to the point where it has made a groove in the metal. The table now falls into this groove and is what is making it so difficult to turn. I tried lubricating it to cut down on the friction which made it slightly better but didn't solve the problem so I am asking the larger community for any suggestions. I looked up the part and while it is an inexpensive fix I would still like to know why its doing this. parts diagram attached. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e22/flagshipone/Untitled_zpsviypp5vt.png <a href="http://s36.photobucket.com/user/flagshipone/media/Untitled_zpsviypp5vt.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e22/flagshipone/Untitled_zpsviypp5vt.png" border="0" alt=" photo Untitled_zpsviypp5vt.png"/></a>
  10. Made a trip to Menard's today. They have a 2 gallon shop vacuum on sale for $19.99, then another 11% rebate. I got tired of stretching a hose 20' to the miter saw, and having to turn it on, then do the walk. Got my old master-slave switch for wiring, connected hose up to the miter saw's dust port and now when I turn on the saw, the hose, sitting right there on the wall switches on and runs 5 seconds after the saw shuts off. Doesn't catch everything, but "it couldn't hoyt" Oh, and POS = point of sawdust http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools-accessories/wet-dry-vacuums-accessories/vacmaster-reg-1-5-gallon-2-0-hp-wet-dry-vac/p-1444426622304.htm
  11. Dad is coming down this morning to pick up some saw blades for his Radial Arm Saw. I have some 10" blades sitting around that I have not used in a while, and he needs them. As I was sorting through my blades, and picking out some that would work well on his RAS, I was thinking what a neat subject this would make here in our community. I am not going to get into the differences between the blades and submit my knowledge of the differences, I wanted you all to contribute your own knowledge on the subject, meanwhile also staying away from linking to outside articles on the subject if you will. I would love to see the opinions and knowledge of our contributors here, for others who may happen onto our woodworking community, to benefit from and read up on. So, what is the difference between the various types of blades for our Radial Arm Saws, Miter Saws, and Table Saws, and even the hand held Cabinet or Wormdrive Saws? Why would you use one blade over the other? Why do these blades have different rakes? Why does tooth count matter? Thanks everyone for your contributions to this subject, please submit supporting images too if you like, but again, try to stay away from linking to outside sources, lets make this our own topic of knowledge on the subject!
  12. In this video I share how I cut small parts on the miter saw. I am sure this one will be cause for active commentary from the safety police and maybe the hand tool junkies for not using a fancy hand saw to cut small pieces. Well, this is the way I do it in the American Craftsman Workshop. Because if the tool doesn't make any noise and throw a rooster tail of sawdust, how am I supposed to know that any work is getting done? Hope you enjoy the video and find it helpful;) Remember to let your work be your signature. Your friend in the shop, Todd A. Clippinger Share the Love - Share the Knowledge
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