Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'live center'.
Found 3 results
-
So I received an order of blanks today from Cook Woods. I'm being a bit crazy with this one here I've started on a purple heart blank. How ever I AM NOT using the face place to start it off. I off set the blank a bit and went with the live center option. I wanted to try for a bit of a different pattern with the way the grain looks in a finished product. I'm not sure if this was just down right risky or plain stupid of me to do. How ever the main issue I've been having is the fact that the live center wants to slip on occasion when I'm cutting into the wood so its been a slow going process. Yes I've made sure the tail stock was tight into the blank giving it support. It would still slip. I'm just hoping I can get a good cut on the tenon. Any suggestions on making this work?
- 25 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- purple heart
- live center
- (and 3 more)
-
I saw a thread at another site about the removable center point in some live centers. I have the One way live center. I lost the point once a while ogo but did find it hiding in a drawer. I had often thought about making some extras on the metal lathe and decided to go ahead and do it. I found out that it is a "zero" Morse taper. Didn't even know there was such a thing. Jump to Morse - The taper angle of the Morse taper varies somewhat with size but is typically 1.49 degrees (around 3 degrees included). I figured setting the angle of the tool post slide would be almost impossible so I chucked up a drill chuck with a #2 taper and mounted a dial indicator to copy the taper to the tool slide and cut a taper on some round stock I had. Well it still wiggled around in the hole so I set upon the task of getting it right and kept moving it a few thousandths Until I got a snug fit as needed. Made up a bunch of blanks for use too. The one mounted in the live center is threaded with 1/4" thread and is removable. The center can be mounted in the metal lathe and any tip I wish to make can be turned to exact center for the live center. A pin can be inserted into the hole to lock the live center from turning. This end is made to fit in the pen nib holes to for use while sanding the plating off. I double nutted it so it will be the same when removed and replaced. The other blanks can be use for other purposes later on. While I was at it I put some larger stock in and made some #2 taper blanks. I didn't change the angle and turns out it was close enough. Drilled and threaded holes in the ends of these for a draw bar which will be a great help when I go to turn them later on. In my searches I found Morse Taper blanks are also available form various places. Here's a link for reference. https://www.victornet.com/tools/Blank-Morse-Taper-arbors/20.html
- 4 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- morse tapers
- metal lathe
- (and 1 more)
-
Hey guys, I am making a small stool today for my first shaker chair project, it's a warm up to get me used to using the lathe, and weaving the seat. The stool will be similar to the one below. My question is, the tops of the legs are rounded. And obviously exposed to view. When I turn these legs, which end should I mount to the lathes spur drive. I am using a traditional spur drive with a live center, if my terminology is even correct. Thanks for any help.
.thumb.jpg.573d1497d0675219908c85aabefd797a.jpg)