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Found 101 results

  1. This video is a really slick way of finding and drilling true center without the lathe. We all have had a piece that we couldn't find center after removing from the lathe, because of poor planning.
  2. I needed to mount various vices and jigs to my drill press; this is what I came up with: I mounted a 1 1/2" floor flange to 3/4 ply with #14 screws, ground one side of a 1 1/2" nipple to fit the clamp on the DP. Now when I need to change jigs I loosen the DP clamp, lift the current jig and replace with what I need tighten and away I go. thoughts?
  3. Well, I had three chisels in need of a bit of work. A Buck Brothers 3/8" Mortise chisel, a Witherby 1/2" paring chisel, and a "Work Zone 8mm Aldi's chisel. While I was down in the shop, a little prep work was done. 8mm chisel was badly chipped on the end. Ground a new edge. Beltsander to re-do the other two edges. Who ever had done these two before me...did not have a clue. Mortise chisel was @ 45 degrees? The Witherby was a very short 35 degree bevel? Brought the chisels and the "supplies" up to the work zone on the dining room table.. 600 grit stone, 1K grit, and 2K grit sandpaper, a leather belt for a strop, and a Veritas MK1 honing jig. Found out, right off the bat, the Mortise chisel does not work with the guide. Way too many angles going on. Lot of free hand work with that one. There is an area between the front wheel and the platten on the beltsander, that does work nicely for the bevel I needed... Starts out at about 25 degrees, then towards the edge, "morphs" into a 35 degree edge. Hand work to polish this one up. I'd set the sandpaper on the stone, and work the bevels, and the back.. Til I could run the two down the strop..20-30 times. Next was the Work Zone 8mm. This one I could use the jig.. Set it at 30 degrees.....it was at 25, but the edge wouldn't hold up. 35 was a bit too steep. I'll try 30 for a while and see how it does.... Stone, then the two sandpapers, then the strop, on the strop, it was free-hand. As for the Witherby? Since it works as a paring chisel, I could lower the bevel to 25 degrees. Belt is an old leather work belt, used to hang my nail bags on. Now all three are sharpened up. Need someone to haul all this back to the shop. Not sure what "grit" the strop is, the highest grit I use on the wet or dry is 2000 grit, Stone is just a 600 grit Medium India oil stone. About all I have to sharpen with in this shop.....oil is just 3in1 oil.
  4. I got a little shop time yesterday! So I thought I'd make a little something for our daughter's violin teacher, she has taken it upon herself to give our daughter lessons pro bono, but we could not have that so I told every now and then I'd get something out of the shop for her. We are starting small at first so I can get an idea of her tastes, once I know what she likes in her home (mountain cabin with cedar walls) then we'll get more extravagant. I decided on a simple little shaker style wall shelf with sliding dovetails. Of course every project starts out with a plank of wood! Then with a couple simple layout tools we can commence to just having some fun and layout some lines. It takes me a few tries before I get something that looks pleasing. It is purely a personal thing, and even after I do the layout and it all looks good on wood, I really don't know what I will think about it until I get it cut out and set it up to see how the proportions look. The idea here is to just have fun with it. After about a dozen tries I finally came out with some lines I enjoy. This photo is the bottom of the wall shelf. You can click on this one to view it larger to see the line. This next photo is the top of the shelf, I loved how this one turned out, I tried some tighter radius's and a thinner top portion, but then I went bold and just used my string bow for the radius. Click on photo for larger image. I cut the first half out on the band saw, I only like cutting up to the line about a 1/6th proud, I am horrible at following a line on the line, if I try to cut to the line I typically cut over it and blow the layout, I am one of those unfortunates that do not have a good eye and steady feed to be able to cut right to the line so I leave the line in place, and spindle sand or plane to the line. Below you'll see the first half is finished, and it is laid up over the second half to mark out. I am pleased with the appearance of the layout after it has been cut out. I have a Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jig that is really handy for these smaller jobs. I like to use the sliding dovetail feature instead of dadoing the shelves in. I like the way the sliding dovetail lends that extra level of assurance that the shelves will not separate from the sides of case work like this. Think about it, an interlocking shelf that with all your might you could not pull apart even before it is glued up, then you add glue, and it would take a herculean effort to pull the sides away from the shelf, I like to make projects to last lifetimes, to hand down to generations. I know this is just a simple shelf, but 150 years from now, it will still be in one piece bar any disaster such as fire or landfill. You could drop this from 10 feet up and it will not separate. I like to think that anything I do will age and gain a rich patina, and the marks of wear from a century of knick knacks along with salt and pepper shakers that will have inhabited the shelf. I like to do my runs in sets, to assure that the two Dovetail slots will line up perfectly. So I clamp my halves together and then I insert the halves in the jig. These halves will stay clamped together for the duration of the slotting operations. You want to be sure you position the clamp in a manner that you do not have to pull it off to make room for the next operation. If you do have to pull it off, you'll need to use a second clamp to secure the boards before you pull off the first clamp. Click on image to enlarge. Just another shot of the two boards in position, the dovetail slot is the longer narrow area in the middle of the template. Now the Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jighas a handy little feature just like the bigger jigs do, a router bit depth stop. The depth stop is marked out accordingly, 1/4" for routing dovetail slots in 1/2" lumber, 3/8" for routing slots in 3/4" lumber, and 1/2" for routing slots in 1" lumber. I forgot to say, the PC 4210 comes with bushings and a dovetail bit that are suited for this jig. In this case I set my router bit depth to 3/8", I planed my lumber for the sides to 5/8" to give the shelf some depth and difference in the parts, and I wanted the slot to be routed as deep as possible without compromising the integrity of the sides. Click image to enlarge. With the halves in place and the boards set to the line in the jig ,and the bit depth set, the operation was completed, I am sorry I did not get any pictures of the actual operation, but it would have been difficult to hold the camera in one hand and the router in the other! TIP:When you route the slot, come in from both sides as to prevent tear out. Start from one side, cut the slot length about 90 percent, back your router back down the slot to exit, then come in from the opposite side, this will prevent unsightly blow out of the edges. One slot cut one to go. As you can see the two halves are still clamped up! You want to keep them clamped up until your finished with the slot cutting operations. Now the two halves are rotated 180 degrees (on this piece because of the location of the slots, yours will differ) with some operations you can keep feeding the work in one direction until you run out of room or support, but with this small shelf, it had to be rotated. The opposite end is now in the jig, and just for assurance, even though I drew my lines out accurately, I check the board for squareness in relation to the jig. And the second slot is cut just as the first one was. TIP: Do any sanding of the surface of the slotted boards before you slot them! If you sand them after you slot them, you'll ruin the reference to the dovetailed boards, and you'll create an unsightly gap between the ends of the shelves and the surface of the slotted board. Now with my slots cut and clamp removed I set the two halves out of the way and I get set for the routing operation of the shelf ends for the dovetail style profile. I start off with a piece of scrap the exact same thickness as the shelves. TIP: If your going to thickness plane the shelves, make sure you plane a piece of scrap at the same time to use for a test run in this procedure. In my case, I did not plane the shelves, so I was able to use a cutoff from the band saw operation. This portion of the entire operation is the only time you'll need to make some minor adjustments. The routing of the slots is straight forward, it is what it is, set the depth of the bit, line em up and cut. Routing the ends of the shelves is where all adjustments are made. Set the scrap piece in the jig up to the template, keeping your router bit at the same depth throughout the entire procedure, make your first test cut. Remove your test piece and see how it fits! As you can see my first test run turned out a sloppy fitting joint. Click image to enlarge. To adjust this slop out, you'll need to adjust the black knob, then the brass knob, it only takes a slight twist clockwise of both knobs on each side of the jig to take up the slop, what this does is cut less of the material away by putting more of the lumber under the aluminum jig. You'll have to flip your test piece over or cut off the one end to make a new cut. Since I have slop, there is no re-using the same cut end. If it were too tight, I could turn the knobs counter clockwise, bring the board out from under the template thus cutting more away. Sorry for the poor picture quality on this one, but you can see the adjusting knobs. Ahhhh, perfect fit now!!! You don't want the fit to be snug, you want to be able to slide the piece with some resistance, but not a whole lot, you'll need some room for the glue, and if your doing a multiple shelf glue up you'll be thankful you gave yourself some room, if you don't leave the room, your glue can freeze up the joint before you get it all in place. Now we are ready for the actual shelf to be cut, the shelf is in place. And the first cut is performed. Click on image to enlarge. Once you get it all set up, the rest goes quickly, I routed the ends of my two shelves in 3 minutes. So, with the shelves now routed, the sides are slotted, we are getting ready for glue up. The rest is academic, we all know how to spread glue and insert board "A" into board "B". The only thing I would recommend here is to do a dry fit first, sometimes the boards might fit a little too snug, in which case all I do is wrap some 220 sandpaper around a paint stirrer sized stick and sand the insides of the slots to allow a little more room for the board to slide in. Use plenty of glue, to allow for lubrication while sliding the joints in place. The natural instinct is to use too little,we think that just because it is an interlocking joint that a lil dab will so ya. That may be so, but that lil dab will do ya philosophy will get you in trouble as you slide the joints in place and it freezes up on you half way through. Once the boards are in place, clamp it all up! This project up to this point took me about 2 hrs to complete, it is a simple project, fun to wind down with and you are able to freestyle it. No plans, just your eye. If I would change anything about this one, I would rip the board down to 4" instead of 6" for proportional sake only. Nevertheless I think she'll be happy with the small shelf for the wall of her mountain cabin. The dimensions are 28" tall by 18" wide and 6" deep. Though the routing setup and operation seemed like it took awhile in the tutorial, it actually only took about a half hr for setup, test cut, and final cutting. Once you get to know the jig just like with any jig, it all goes fast. Today I will sand it out to 180, apply some TransFast Early American Maple Dye and we'll talk about the rest of the finishing process in the next post! Thanks all for reading!
  5. Gents, can you tell me what the most common bowl diameters are, if that exist, and if any of you have a bandsaw bowl blank cutting jig to show off I'd sure appreciate it. I know I can turn bowls from any diameter, but if I have a jig that I can use with my 14" bandsaw to cut blanks to round at common diameters, than I think that would be a good thing no? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  6. Back before Christmas, I posted a link to an article by Popular Woodworking. The author built a sturdy and versatile bench clamping jig. Here's the link to part #2 of that build- http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/bench-bull-the-jack-of-all-bench-jigs-part-2?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=pww-jru-nl-160103&utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=pww-jru-nl-160103&utm_content=810159_PWE160103&utm_medium=email The article demonstrates various clamping techniques and includes dimensions.
  7. Just received this in an email from Popular Woodworking. Looks like it might be handy for some woodworkers. The entire article is here- http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/bench-bull-the-jack-of-all-bench-jigs-part-1?utm_source=Newsletter&utm_campaign=pww-jru-nl-151220&utm_content=807959_PWE151220&utm_medium=email
  8. I love visiting our sponsors "Woodcraft Magazine" site, it's such a cool place to peruse and just hang out, and it looks great! Here is a cool jig I found, thanks Woodcraft!
  9. Yep, drawer Wars. As in, a fight to the finish between me and that evil dovetail jig. Fought to get the router set up, fight to get the jig set up. Fight to get two drawers to go together..... The Jig in use I figure at least I could try to do both drawers at the same time.. Not the greatest of fits, Got the sides and front ripped and planed to size, then this mess starts up. Well, coping saw to close a few gaps. BIG ball pean to close others. Getting late Well this morning, I moved that jig out of my sight, needed to room on the bench. Drawer sides were almost 3" too long. Trimmed them for length. Ripped and crosscut a board to get two pieces for backs, and set them aside. Set up another router, hoping it would do it's job. Needed grooves for the plywood bottoms. Set up the fence and the height of the bit. Then hunted for the cord to plug the router into. Yep, that $23 router table and router. Had the bottoms cut to size and even sanded it a bit. Needed that to check on the width of the groove. Took a second cutting. Then two clamps, and a bunch of glue for the front, and some glue and screws for the backend. Once I had found how wide the back needed to be. One screw to hold the bottom to the back, two on each corner, The doveatils were on their own, though sat the completed drawers in their new homes, once I figured out which went where. Needed to make something for them to slide around on. Some OLD 1x2 strapping, with the staples removed, four pieces were cut. Drilled three pilot holes in each. Set one end even with the front runner/stretcher, and finger clamped it in place. Set the combo square to set the height for the rest of the runner, three screws, and some Elmers. Finger Clamps? By Visegrip of course.. This was after the fourth runner was added. Next? Well, the BOSS wanted a cabinet on one end, so Had some extra plywood and some cleat stock sitting around, cut one panel for the drawer end. Had to notch for the runners, as the front one would be where a few screws would wind up. Panel is a bit shy of full width, by a 3/16" or so. Screwed to the legs and the front runner. One end is done, needed a back as well. It needed a cleat or two, but it is now in place And have added a cleat for the other side panel...that I still need to cut out. Then maybe, just maybe, build a DOOR for this thing? I am thinking this will be more for "Cookie Sheets and the like" and might not need a shelf inside. Don't think shelf pins will hold in 1/4" ply, anyway. Still have to final fit the drawers, and sand them to paint grade ( Guess who wants to paint it?). Even found two Kanoobies that match the ones in the kitchen! Have until Thursday afternoon to get something else done. On Med Leave right now...
  10. Well, I have a "chute-ing Board" to refine sawn edges with. Made from a scrap of 2x6, and a couple hardwood cleats. Wasn't quite set up right. Took a jack plane to the flat area where the parts sit Then put the jig in the vise on edge. Time for the Wards #78 rebate plane. Had to remove the fence, and the depth stop. Worked on both faces of the rebate, to get them at a 90 degree corner But the stop was getting in the way. Took the screws out, and removed the stop. It's rebate was a bit out of whack, too. A Saw, a chisel and the 78 brought it back to square to the jig and almost flat Re-installed the stop in the jig, a little "fine tuning" with a hammer. Hmmm, sticks out into the track. Grinder made that go away. Time to try things out? A Sargent #3416 Trans. Jack and someone's ham-fisted hand. Couple of c clamps to hold things in place. Not too bad, just a simple little jig Anyone can make one. Just have to pay attention to a few angles..
  11. Charles Nicholls

    Paper pot jig

    From the album: Turning Jigs

    Completed paper pot maker jig. Made with Apple (left) and Maple (right)
  12. From the album: Pine Is Fine Shop Jigs

    Here is another quick and easy jig I made today. It is a Stop Block Table Saw Jig. Used to make all your cuts identical.
  13. From the album: Pine Is Fine Shop Jigs

    Here is a quick and easy raised panel table saw jig I made today. The raised panel is just a test cut using 3/4 birch veneer I had laying around.
  14. lew

    Adjustable Jig 9

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Disassembled jig
  15. lew

    Adjustable Jig 8

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Disassembled jig
  16. lew

    Adjustable Jig 7

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Disassembled jig
  17. lew

    Adjustable Jig 10

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Disassembled jig
  18. lew

    Widened Cut Rear

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Widened Cut Rear
  19. lew

    Widened Cut Front

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Widened Cut Front
  20. lew

    Trim Jig2

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Trim Jig2
  21. lew

    Trim Jig1

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Trim Jig1
  22. lew

    Trim Jig

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Trim Jig
  23. lew

    Trim Jig Raises Blank1

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Trim Jig Raises Blank1
  24. lew

    Trim Jig Raises Blank

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Trim Jig Raises Blank
  25. lew

    Trim Jig Bottom2

    From the album: Celtic Knot Rolling Pin

    Trim Jig Bottom2
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