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Found 16 results

  1. I planned on remodeling the kitchen a year ago January but was informed that our Goddaughter's wedding was in April and Patti was baking the cookies for the cookie table. 2020 being what it was scraped the wedding plans. Decided to redo the first floor bathroom instead. Me personally I wanted to eliminate it and use the space in the kitchen but with family members getting older we have the need so it stays. Original owners paneled this room and covered a window in the back wall and then build a closet on that wall. When looking at the back of the house you'll see two windows & a door, more than once the missing window came up in conversation. We decided to make a true water closet and use the extra space and window in the kitchen. The window next to the closet was removed. Upper shelf held more games that it was rated for. I cut the wall into the kitchen to give her the feel of what 40 sq. ft. of additional space could feel like. Insulated and temporary wall cover since June. Removed the door jam instead of the frig door. Moving forward to 2021 and we are ready to start fresh. Removed all the underlayment & flooring. Back of the house faces west & door leads to enclosed back porch. We use it more for a pantry and rarely went out the back door, side door was easier. After several days we are at our goal and an empty room. Start new framing next week.
  2. Joe Zeh has released CabWriter 4 for Sketchup. If you use Sketchup to design kitchen cabinets, this extension/addon is a great idea.
  3. While we are waiting for the glass to arrive which will complete the liquor cabinet I started the next project which is a cabinet for the wine fridge. It is a fairly straight forward cover and I will be using African mahogany with some brass inlay on the legs. The brass is 1/4” square brass stock set into a 1/4” routered groove. Paul
  4. I am starting to build kitchen cabinets for my sister. I've started cutting all the parts from the 3/4" prefinished maple plywood for the cabinets and will use 1/2" prefinished maple plywood for the shelves. My question is how much shorter do you cut shelves to fit inside cabinets on adjustable shelf pins? 1/8, 1/4??
  5. Maybe getting old , maybe tired , maybe it just is not that important. Oh you say what am I referring to. One I used wood and find jointery to make shop cabinets and fixtures. Having accumulated a fair amount of counter tops and divider panels from drugstores (MDF and particle board) it is time to use it. Started some cabinets with all screws, not much that could be glued. Various colors and even some covered in Formica. So you be the judge......,.lazy, tired, thrifty, or just don’t care. more later as this is the best materials I had.
  6. The rage today is to use painted cabinets not stained. Is this just to spend money? Cleaning is painted or stained easier to clean? Repair is painted or stained easier to repair? Most painted cabients are in the light zone because they tend to hide dirt better. What are your thoughts? For me it may not be the grainy oak but maybe a less figured wood. Or maybe oak stained to highlight the grain.
  7. Guys, haven't been around for quite a while and was hoping someone might be able to steer me in the right direction. My son and I will be building out the interior of a van (Sprinter type probably) and I have build plenty of standard cabinets but am looking for ways to save weight but still be structurally sound and be able to handle the bouncing of an RV. Thanks for any input, links or advice.
  8. Here's a new video on the room I worked on last year with two other friends -- wainscoting all around, built-in cabinets, altar table, and lectern made and kneeling bench re-upholstered and refurbished wood. I posted some progress photos on this but didn't look up that post. This was done while I was in the process of moving (and had limited shop set up), so we've transferred to the neighborhood church here. I also made those bookcases in the library photos as well as a number of them for the offices shortly after joining that church in 1994. Thirty-five of them in total, and about 10 with cabinet doors on the bottom. http://sharonville-umc.org/upper_room
  9. in the shop why do you use overlay or inset cabinet doors or drawers? In my case inset is the perfection of the cabinetry mountain. Overlay is allowed for less that perfection. But does overlay seal the cabinet or drawing better then inset for dust issues?
  10. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    This kitchen was made from solid pine and pine laminated ply, with walnut accents. This was a really neat project, the customer let me have a ton flexibility in the design of the cabinets, so I was able to inject some creativity into this job, and I had a blast. I will find more images!
  11. I ask this question on here a long time back about where to get good full extension drawer slides at a good price. Someone gave me a link and I purchased some and loved them. Now I ain't located my bookmark for the site and my mind is going so I don't remember where it was. So I'll start over. Can anyone tell me where you get full extension 150 lb drawer slides at a good price?
  12. I spent the last two days building a new cabinet. I had all of my 10" saw blades stashed in my router table storage so I decided to build a cabinet to relocate the blades by the table saw. Next I'm going to re-work the router table cabinet and build three more drawers for more router bits. How long do you think this cabinet will stay empty. BTW, I got lazy on this cabinet and bought the doors. $3 apiece. Couldn't build them for that. As a point of interest, the shelf full of cutoffs in the left side of the picture decided they liked the floor better than the shelf about 5 minutes after I took the picture. Sigh..
  13. I ran across an interesting question on Facebook, a poster asked what would be more reliable, french cleats made from ply wood or solid hard wood? Any opinions most welcome.
  14. Upon further review. Seems a better stash has been found. tore down a bed frame into usable parts. Oh, I will still use some of the metal parts. But the metal parts are just to reinforce the workbench. What you see here are six raised panels. Never mind about Buster sitting there. There are also some other parts worth saving some of them a bit long. LOTS of staples that need to go...elsewhere. Will have to bring the saws up out of the Dungeon Shop, and a few clamps. Clamp a piece to the saw bench, and rip or crosscut until I have all the parts for another Tool Chest build. With some better trays, I hope. Oh and there are a few that need to be split Those aren't solid 4x4s, and some are delaminating. Going to split them into the three pieces they are made from. Some will be corner posts. Along with the 1 x 12s, and all that extra Barn siding stuff. It might take a while, but I think I might have the time right now to build it. As for Buster? Brand new handle for a $1 head. Went to Lowes to buy a handle.....nope, they don't sell those kind of handles. However, they would be more than happy to sell me a 2 pound Kobalt version.....for $17...Yeah, right. Took my 2.9 pound hammer head just up the road to the local TSC store, yep even had the correct handle with wedges (3) for.....$5.99 + tax. got it home, installed the new handle, and put it to work, breaking down a bed frame. Must have done it right ( for once) since the head never moved, or flew off. Some days.. you just get...lucky.
  15. Last week we wrapped up our pine cabinets and the final coat of pain on them, and final rub down of the interior shellac finish. That weekend I was able to get the cabinets installed with the butcher block counter tops over the lower base and over the washer and dryer. Here a couple links of the cabinet build from an earlier time. Pine Cabinets Shaker Style Part 1 Pine Cabinets Shaker Style Part 2 How to Make an Adjustable Sawtooth Shelf System Photo below is the upper cabinet, doors yet to be installed. I like to back my cabinets, most folks do not. They'll leave the backs off leaving the wall behind exposed. I don't like seeing walls, I like seeing something really nice behind the dishes and glassware, in this case it is being used for storage in a wash room, but I'll still pay the same attention to detail, Photo below, I just set one of the doors in place so we could see what is going in. I cut the doors the exact same dimensions as the openings, then I planed each one down to fit exactly in its assigned opening. The doors are inset flush so the reveal (gap) around the door had to be perfect, if not it stands out like a sore thumb. There are advantages and disadvantages to the inset door, as mentioned, the reveal has to be perfect, but the advantage is easy hinge application, in this case I used colonial style butterfly hinges surface mount. Photo below, the two main cabinets installed, the lower and upper along with the butcher block counter top. These are shown with out any trim-out to hide the unsightly gaps at the ceilings and walls, where the drywall is undulating. I trimmed it out with 1/4" by 3/4" strips of wood. Very simple, no crown, the entire home is Early American, the customer is an antique collector and loves simplicity. Photo below, butcher block counter over the appliances. I routed in some 3/4" dadoes at the bottom ends of the counter tops and secured cleats to the side walls, the counter tops are sitting on those cleats, I was able to get the counter top virtually on top of the washer and dryer by routing in those dadoes and resting the top on the cleats in that manner, also since the top is only resting on the cleats, it can be removed for appliance service if need be. Since these photos were taken, I have installed all the trim, back-splash's at the sink cabinet and the appliance counter top, the doors are installed, and it looks very nice. I also built onsite the upper cabinet over the appliances above the window two weeks ago, and I'll need to go back and install the door for that cabinet, at that time I'll get some finish shots, it looks awesome right now. Thanks for hanging in there!
  16. Well we got the rear boards up on our base cabinet, the front feet on the base cabinet, and we also go the upper cabinet constructed with the rear boards installed and the face frame ready to go. Pine Cabinets Shaker Style Part 1 I cannot install the face frame yet as I need to install the saw-tooth shelf supports and put the floating shelves in first, then the face frame can be attached, coming along! I almost got to the doors this weekend, it'll have to be next weekend. During this week I am going to start construction on a shaker wall shelf for the Laguna Tools auction event to help our veterans. Here are a couple shots of the base cabinet with the rear installed and the little feet in front. Rear of the cabinet, individual pine boards, random widths, I like random widths when doing the rear panels like this. Evenly width boards bore me! The upper cabinet, with face frame leaning up against it. Thanks for looking folks, this has been a really fun project, I forgot how fun pine is to work with, and how forgiving it is!!!
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