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  1. Yea, it stands for what you think it does. When I finish a bowl on the lathe I first finish the bottom and then hold the bowl with a vacuum chuck to finish the rest of it. I've been wanting to try the technique with brush on lacquer and I guess I was thinking about that and not much else. This bowl has one coat of shellac for sealer on it. I started it spinning and applied the shellac, then went in the house for a bit. When I go back out to the shop, the bowl is laying on the floor with several pieces of bark broken off. Luckily I keep a messy shop and there was a bed of shavings or it probably would've been worse. I have several lights over my lathe which are plugged into a switchable plug strip. I normally plug my vacuum pump into a separate outlet but not thinking I plugged it into the one I use for the lights. I ALWAYS turn my lights off when I leave the shop. Amazingly I was able to get the pieces glued back on and it's hard to tell they were even broken. Thank goodness for super glue. Steve
  2. Well I made it through the Christmas holiday- mostly by hiding out in the basement shop! Member @Cliff posed a question about salvaging a warped bowl blank. Check out some of the suggestions and see if you can give Cliff some help- @Steve Krumanaker posted a beautiful natural edge walnut bowl. Keeping that much bark intact is quite a feat!! Check out his post and the comments here- @HandyDan set me a link to a really cool video about making multiple copies of little wooden horses- on the lathe! Although the audio is in German (I think), it is really neat to see how they duplicated the horses. There are additional items being made on the lathe- all from a log round! I found a couple of videos on making platters. I think they are easier to make than bowls. First from Carl Jacobson- And the second one from Tim Yoder- Tim's video is a two parter and the second part is linked on his YouTube site. Also, check out Tim's use of the Easy Wood Chuck! While hiding out in the basement, I had the chance to experiment with a new (for me) turning media.I wanted to try my hand at some acrylic casting/turning. During a visit to Hobby Lobby, I found some "Alumilite" brand casting resin- Hobby Lobby has 40% off coupons which brought the price down to about $20. I've had a little experience with casting in the past. I really didn't want to have to buy molding materials for a simple turning so I stopped by the "Dollar Store" and bought a 3-pack of plastic cereal bowls- I figured this would make a fine mold to cast a blank for turning another bowl. Even if the resin didn't release the casting, I could just turn away the blue plastic. I must admit, that most of these ideas came from Carl Jacobson and Peter Brown's YouTube videos. Anyway, The little blue bowls held 2.5 cups of liquid. The resin pack was enough for 4 cups of liquid. Using Mr. Brown's idea of including a wooden lathe mounting piece molded into the casting and some extra filler, I figured I could get away with 2 cups of resin. I turned a bowl shaped piece of wood- not hollowed- for the mount and used a bunch of lathe shavings for the filler. Mixed up the resin and poured the blank. The instructions indicate that the ideal temperature is 70° or higher for the chemical reaction/hardening. Hmmm, 60° in the basement- the solution- My seed starter heating pad and a cardboard cover to trap the heat and 24 hours later, the results- Unmolding wasn't a problem either. I drilled a small hole on the center of the plastic bowl and used air pressure to pop the casting free. When I worked making casting, years ago, we either used vacuum chambers or pressure chambers to eliminate any tiny bubbles that may have been trapped in the casting material. I had neither method so I expected a few voids- I think if the casting would have been done in a warmer environment, there would not have been as many of these defects. I used the chuck screw to mount the blank to the lathe/chuck Turned the outside to shape and created a recess to reverse the blank. Sanded the outside to 12000 grit and then used Turtle Wax swirl and scratch remover. Reversed the blank and turned away the wooden insert leaving a support post to help hold the blank with the tailstock. Never having worked with this material before, I wasn't sure how thin I could make the walls. I left them a little over 1/4. Sanded/finished the outside the same way as the inside I think I need to run it through the dishwasher to clean out some of the tiny air bubble holes that trapped the Turtle Wax compound. Turned completely with Easy Wood Tools!! Safe Turning
  3. Dane Franco

    Walnut Chair Plans

    From the album: Dane Franco

  4. From the album: Dane Franco

  5. From the album: Dane Franco

  6. Just pulled this off the lathe. Walnut is just the most amazing wood to me, the grain in walnut is always different and always spectacular IMO. Tried a new finishing technique(to me) on this piece. Left it spinning on the lathe and applied tung oil with a foam brush. That allows a wet heavy coat with no drips or sags. It's a technique I'll be using again I'm sure. This piece is 13" tall and about 7" major diameter. It's a pretty consistent 1/4" thick. Steve Just realized i didn't take a picture of the top, it's hollowed through 1-3/4" hole if I remember correctly.
  7. I was given a sketch and asked to build a replacement for this trophy for a General at the base. I think he just wants to refresh the look of the trophy, change some info on plates, etc. While it is some really pretty Walnut about 90% of it will be covered with engraved plates - ugh! But it's finished and they can do with it what they want, I guess. The base is 17" square, the next level is 15 1/2" square, and the top 2" section on which the cup locates is 10" square. The one critical dimension I was given is that it has to be 21 1/2" tall to the top of the cup. Everything is just setting in place, nothing fastened down in the photos. The missiles were taken from the old trophy and the cup is new. Original trophy - New trophy - Enjoy! David
  8. Well folks, the cradle is mounted in the frame and it even quietly rocks. For the record, I burnt candle wax into the pivot pins. Now on to a quilt rack for a customer.IMG_1565.MOV
  9. As some of you know, my sister has made it her life's work to make sure I get to heaven- fat chance! This time, she has me making a tithe box and shelf for her minister's church. I worked with him thru emails and Sketchup drawings to get the approval on the design/materials/hardware. The box is 1/2" thick birch and walnut stock with hand cut dovetails. Top and bottom are mounted in dados. The top is flush with the sides and the bottom is slightly recessed. The shelf is 3/4" birch plywood with shop made walnut edging. The hardware is a half mortised lock and a 110° stopped piano hinge. The minister has someone in the congregation do the finishing. The box is about 14" L x 7" W x 6" H. I did hit the walnut with mineral spirits to see what the grain would look like with finish- Thanks for looking!
  10. Ron Dudelston

    Back Side

    From the album: Walnut Cradle

    Back side of the cradle.
  11. Ron Dudelston

    It Rocks!

    From the album: Walnut Cradle

  12. A few ornaments from the latest run. There were 17 in this batch. Actually have started another 10 or so, that will probably be the last of them for this year. Steve
  13. Just finished up 12 more ornaments, I think that will do it for this year. That will give me about 45 altogether. Some will go in gift shops but many will be gifted. Anyway, I had a piece of spalted beech, heavily spalted but still solid enough to hollow, kind of unusual. Did one with walnut accents and one with maple. I like the walnut one for the contrast but then, I like the maple one too. Steve
  14. Ron Dudelston

    Cradle Front

    From the album: Walnut Cradle

    This is the front of the raised panel/spindle cradle.
  15. Ron Dudelston

    Right End

    From the album: Walnut Cradle

    This right end also has a pin to restrict the rocking action.
  16. Ron Dudelston

    Left End

    From the album: Walnut Cradle

    Left end of the cradle.
  17. I actually need to make 20 of these but will do 5 each week until I get them finished. I simply don't have room to store enough lumber, to clamp them all, and to finish them to do all at the same time. The finished size will be 28" x 17" so they're basically like an end table top. They'll get a Roman Ogee edge treatment and finished in clear gloss Nitrocellulose lacquer. There will be channels screwed to the front side so engraved name plates can be interchanged. The good part of that is if there's a slight blemish with a knot hole or crack it won't show so I won't have to spend much time fixing those. The bad thing is that this beautiful Walnut will be mostly covered with plastic name plates. Anyway, this isn't any special technique or job, just gluing up boards and then trimming to size and spraying finish on. But, all 5 are glued up, I'm waiting on my wife to get home, I have supper warming, and there's not a lot I can do right now in the shop so I figured I'd post some photos. Cut to length and width, still in the rough - Surfaced (I really wish I had an 18" or 20" helical head planer! - this takes a while with a lunchbox planer) - Gluing - All 5 glued and drying - Enjoy! David
  18. Some may remember I posted pictures of a hollow form I was drilling and the forstner bit got stuck deep inside. Happily, I eventually got the bit unstuck and was able to continue. Even more happily, the vessel was dry enough to finish this week. Here it is, third coat of oil just applied. It will probably get two or three more coats before I'm done. Keep in mind, the oil is freshly applied so it will lose a little shine. It's about 14" tall and 12" major diameter. I have to tell you I was nervous, nervous while turning off the bottom. Afraid I was going to through. Walnut, what can you say? Steve
  19. When I picked up the lumber for the 5 Walnut plaques (just posted about those) I noticed a 'nugget' on the end of one board. So I cut that off and resawed it today and it's gorgeous! It ended up about 17" x 20" x 1/4" thick in its bookmatched and sanded to 220 form. Now I have to decide what to do with it... I have a few ideas but nothing concrete yet. The boards were very straight except for right at the end on this particular one so I had to be careful resawing it. Opened up to reveal the nugget - Lots of surfacing needed to get them equal and level - Glued - Bookmatched, sanded to 220 grit - More later when I figure out what I want to do with this - David
  20. steven newman

    front view.JPG

    From the album: Maple Chest of Drawers

    Front view, showing off the grain and the trim
  21. THIS is why Dang, hate it when that happens. Have done a few successful forms the last couple of weeks and I guess I just got to aggressive on this one. Didn't have any idea I was in trouble until it separated. I was really pleased with the form on this one too. Oh well, it's how we learn!! Movin' on Steve
  22. Walnut vanity is coming along today. This will go into our quarter bath. The slides are self closing Blu Motion. Base coat of Watco Teak oil followed up with General Finishes Gel Top Coat. Two more coats to go with a 320 grit sanding between coats. My family loves it. I do too! It will be free standing, or floating about 8" above the floor secured in a corner.
  23. Finally got the walnut hollow form off the lathe, actually, it's been "off" the lathe several times over the past couple of weeks. Gerald had mentioned in another thread I might have problems with my laser and he was right, it was too heavy and wanted to move all over the place. Had to address that. Had some other issues and some other projects got in the way. This is my second attempt at hollowing something deep and it was probably a little too ambitious for me. Have to keep telling myself, this is a learning process and that was the main purpose for this piece. Next one will probably be smaller. Anyway, here's a pic, it's about 16" tall and about 14" major diameter. It will go in a sack to dry and then get remounted for turning off the tenon and sanding. Close to 1/4" through out, a little thicker here, a little thinner there. Still learning you see. Steve
  24. I've still got at least dozen of the natural edge walnut pieces to finish up. Was kind of between projects and decided to sand and finish this one. I chose this one because it looked like my cuts were decent and it wouldn't take as much sanding as some of the others. It's about 16X12X5.5. The bark is just really nice on this one I think. It was just about to big for my little photo booth. Steve
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