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ehbowen

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About ehbowen

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    Gopher

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  • First Name
    Eric
  • My Location
    Houston, Texas
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Beginner
  • Favorite Quote
    "And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 NKJV

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  1. The general plan was to cut and miter the mahogany for the frame, then dado or route a groove in it for the poplar. If I understand you correctly, I should first make sure everything fits, glue the mahogany perimeter together (possibly using splines), then mask the groove with masking tape and apply a dark stain to the mahogany. After it dries, remove the mask and glue in the poplar. Could I then apply that clear coat finish to the entire completed frame, or would it be better to coat the poplar before gluing it in place?
  2. So I work at a large and rather fancy hotel, in the maintenance department (I'm a boiler operator by trade). We use a lot of wood trim, enough to where we have a small carpenter's shop. I mentioned to our lead carpenter that I'm getting started in woodworking, and he offered me a box of scrap odds and ends that he was getting ready to throw out...mostly 1x4 mahogany, and 1/4" thick poplar strips. No piece is longer than about 18" or so, but they're about the right size to make keepsake picture frames for 5x7 or 8x10 photos. I was thinking that what might work well would be to use the mahogany for the base of the picture frame, and then glue a strip of poplar into it as an accent. My question is about finishing; I'd like for the mahogany to be dark and the poplar to be light. Would it be best to finish them separately and then glue the accent strip in once completed, or is there a way to finish the colors separately and make it look good?
  3. Well, when you do find someone concerned about quality, they tend to generate business...enough to where they get noticed by someone with $$$, who buys them out. But then the new owners find out that quality costs $$...so guess what gets cut?
  4. Already tried that. I've hit the limits of the adjustment, and the table is still out of true left-right. Clamp a rod (Allen handle) in the miter gauge touching the saw blade on the front side, run it to the back side, and there's about a 1/32" gap...maybe a little more. Already checked the saw blade for flatness. Actually, two different saw blades on two different arbors; one of the arbors and one of the blades was brand new, never used. Same result. It was much worse when I first bought the machine, over a 1/8" gap. I loosened the trunnion bolts and tapped the table as far counterclockwise as it would go. But I hit the limits of adjustment, and that's where I stand at the moment.
  5. Well, I went with what was available at Big Blue Box; the poplar. It's not like this is a lifetime investment. Here I am set up for molding: Some lessons learned: It is much easier to make a dado which was too small a little wider than to make a dado which was too large a little narrower ...especially when you are using a Shopsmith with adjustable quill feed! (Fortunately, the board had two sides....) I am afraid that my table is out of true by a noticeable amount, and I've followed the alignment instructions to the letter. I could take out the Dremel tool and try wallowing out the inside of my carriage trunnions, but I think that I'll first call the factory and see if they have any suggestions. When you go to the trouble of setting up a shop vac and Dustopper for dust collection, remember to turn it on before cutting... Any day when you make a lot of sawdust and spill no blood is a good day. This was a good day!
  6. Off-topic Diversion: Here are the routers which I'm most familiar with!
  7. I believe that some pieces of that came with the machine I bought, but I thank you for the catalog entry; it's not visible on the main web site. I'll add that to my very long "wish list"...
  8. I've just received a molder set and dado set; I'm planning to use them on my Shopsmith Mark V/500. I'm wanting to build a rip fence (vertical) extension which can also be used as a sacrificial for work right up against the fence. Right now I'm planning to use a 1 x 8 x 2' piece of lumber and dado out a 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep slot lengthwise where I can mount a pair of featherboards to help control the work as it moves past the heads. I have one featherboard from Shopsmith already; I was planning to mount that horizontally before the blade. Last I checked Rockler had some featherboards on sale; I was going to get two from them and then cut my slot so that they come down within 1/2" of the saw table at maximum extension. First question: Does this sound like a good plan? Second question: What kind of wood would the more experienced hands here recommend? I should be able to get poplar for $7.88, oak for $11.28, and then of course there's always whitewood or softwood. I'm new at this and I'll always be able to go back and re-do it in the future if necessary, but what would the old hands suggest to a beginner?
  9. Obligatory saa-lute! to Hee Haw and Grandpa Jones. This thread is intended for sharing good (or otherwise notable!) meals which you've had recently. Recipes, photos, and/or restaurant/chef referrals are welcome! I'm actually starting with breakfast, not supper. A minor obsession of mine lately has been to duplicate, as closely as possible, the traditional Santa Fe recipe for Railroad French Toast. I have the ingredients right, I believe, but the execution is taking a while to perfect... I started with HEB (grocery store) brand "Texas Toast" bread, cut into triangles and trimmed off the crust, then dried out all day in a paper bag. For the custard (single serving) I used one egg, 1/3 cup half & half, and a pinch each of salt, nutmeg and cinnamon. Mix it up well with a wire whip and allow the dried bread to soak in it overnight, turning once. In the morning, heat the oven to 450 degrees and heat olive oil in a small cast-iron skillet to 325 degrees (or until small droplets of water 'pop' when sprinkled in). Fry the bread in the hot olive oil, turning with tongs. When golden brown transfer the toast to a shallow baking pan and set in the oven for six minutes to 'puff'. That's been my problem, holding the 'puff'. The original recipe I'm working from (from The Harvey House Cookbook) calls for 3 to 5 minutes at 400 degrees, but that doesn't raise the bread at all. I'm getting a decent puff in the oven with what I'm doing now, but it collapses when removed from the oven and the bread is still very moist inside. Possibly a higher temperature (I believe I once read 500 degrees in a prototype source, but I can't find the reference) or a slightly longer time. Still, it's delicious...call it a successful failure! Served on reproduction railroad china, with powdered sugar, genuine maple syrup, Earl Grey tea, orange juice, and a side of "Lit'l Smokies". Yum, yum!
  10. Well, he kept it within the building line. Some places they're strict about that!
  11. According to the story I saw (Interesting Engineering web site), he already had the car (if you notice in the video, it's a little dinged up). He already had the house, and he had some space under the stairs that he didn't know what to do with. He realized, "Hey, if I just tilt it a little bit..." and, voilà!
  12. So what do you do when you need to park your car off the street but have no space to build a garage? From YouTube - Unusual Engineering
  13. Trying to stay dry. With a tropical storm moving ashore south of us, that's no small feat. I did a little work on my project to build a car-top carrier so that I can transport 4x8 sheets atop my shorty minivan. The new bandsaw blades which just arrived in the mail could be a big help with that.
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