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xtal_01

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About xtal_01

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    Gopher

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  • First Name
    Michael
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    Jeri
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    Male
  • My skill level is
    You got me, you figure it out!
  • Favorite Quote
    The improbable we do right away ... the impossible just takes a little longer

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  1. I am not sure of the ceiling ... it is high .. 16 ft ... I will put about 24" of insulation in it. Maybe thin plywood or even hardboard ... just something to seal it up and hold up the insulation. Yes, I did that in my last shop .... conduit on the walls and plugs everywhere. Definitely air. I worked for a compressor shop once and picked up a good cast iron pressure lubricated two stage.
  2. OK ... maybe I should start from scratch here. After building the house, I think I have made every mistake I could ... and the ones others made I had to repair (that is a long story ... even had to go back and double up the floor joists and replace two 12" LVL's with three 16" LVL's) So, that pad is floating (ok already a mistake ... I was talked into it by the concrete guy) ... it has a thickened edge (almost 16") ... it has a lot of rebar in it ... has cracks all over but has not moved. It is 64 x 52 plus the small just out ... door going into the office area. I am planning three bays .... each about 20 x 50. I need to be able to drive the RV into it .... so 16' walls ... 14 ft doors. One bay (the one at the end without the office) will not have garage style door. The office is in front (about ) and the area behind (about 36 x 20) is the metal working shop. The middle bay is for wood working ... or any other large project ... the end bay is storage for the RV and ??? The power panel is already it ... 400 amp service ... 200 went to the house .. 200 amp breaker already has conduit to it and comes up inside the slab. I already have a water line and a natural gas line run out to the slab. My thinking is with a typical roof, I will have about 1000 sq ft of usable storage above the center bay. I was planning typical 2 x 6 construction. Here is where I begin to "cheat" The budget is tight. Rather than sheet the house then put on siding, I was thinking of just the T1-11 right on the studs ( well over tyvek). I am looking at something like Roseburg DuraTemp. 7/16" ... $34 a sheet from HD. Comes preprimed. I can use standard fiberglass insulation in the walls .... Cover the inside with "real" ... upainted wood .. T1-11 .... very durable and give an old time workshop feel. Attached are some of my parliamentary drawings. I dropped the ideal of stamped stone on the bottom (again, cost) ... I will probably just buy doors rather than make my own. Maybe drop the large overhang in the front. Also no posts or LVL's inside. I will be putting up a 2 x 6 wall separating the bays so don't need them. I figure I have two months to get my butt in gear. I need to be ready to go when the snow clears. For the past two summers I got distracted (twice by work .. once I ended up in the hospital) ... I got to get this up. I have a complete machine shop sitting in a tractor trailer beside the house. I am completely open at this point in time ... any and all ideas welcome .... just remember, money is tight
  3. Sorry ... I meant on the interior. I am using the engineered T1-11 on the outside and will give it two coats of latex paint. It is on the inside I am trying to figure out what to do. I don't like the look of drywall ... and it is not very durable in a shop where it will get hit and such. I am thinking real wood T1-11. To keep it looking like wood, either light stain or linseed oil. Just thinking which will be better and why. Mike
  4. ... man have I got a lot to learn about wood finishes ...... Well first thing is to clean it up and see what I have to work with. My fear is making it look too new. Steel wool or sandpaper makes sense. Just to kill the finish a bit. We do have a few Sherwin Williams in our area. I have gone to them for industrial primers and paints for steel. Everyone around here carries Zinsser ... I learned the need to use a shellac based sealer when the knots on my new steps bled through the paint. OK .... let me turn the page and ask you guys a completely different question .... I am building a workshop. The pad is poured (3500 sq ft) ... as soon as the weather breaks, I am outside building (built this house through three winters ... the weather here in VT is so rough in winter, I think we spent half the time just shoveling out the house ... I said no more winter building). Basic construction ... 2x6 walls .... I am using improved T1-11 (the fake stuff .. rot proof) and painting the exterior. For a lot of reasons (looks, durability, ...) I was going to use "real" (wood) T1-11 on the inside (I really don't like drywall). I want it to look like wood. I don't want to paint it. I know I can use some kind of stain but I was thinking of linseed oil. I used it years ago on a tool chest I made ... looked great ... smelled great ... is there a reason I would not want to use it? Can it be bought in large quantities (5 gal pails) ... I checked Lowes and HD, both had 1 gal cans and it was fairly expensive. Is there a better option? The wall area is about 3500 sq ft and the ceiling another 3500 sq ft.
  5. WOW ... learned a lot about wood! I would hope I can find a few small pieces of white oak around me somewhere. I will make the missing part from one and then use the others for testing the finish. So two questions .... 1) to get the color right (and I only have a few cans of Minwax stains on hand) ... what should I buy? Do I go out an buy a few cans of stain? You guys mentioned dyes? 2) I read the article on saving a finish. I had guessed this would have had a finish coat of shellac on it. Is there a chance it could have been varnish? I can try the test they talk about. The phone looks like it has a dull finish ... I am sure it is just age. Do they make a matte finish shellac? I just checked checked Home Depot. When I search shellac, it brings up gloss and semi gloss lacquer ... is that the same thing? I am guessing it is not. I search varnish on the HD site ... lots of strippers came up ... only one I see is Spar Varnish (available only by the case), a varnish topcoat at $82 a gallon and some kind of echo friendly varnish (betting it is not real varnish).
  6. Awesome! Now I have a starting point !!!!! Thanks again for all the advice !!!!!!!!!
  7. Thanks so much for all the help! I got another picture for the seller ... it has some issues and we are dickering on price ... you can even see the break out from ??? coming through the batter area/ I think the inside of the cover may be unfinished. This might help identify what kind of wood it was made of. Thanks!!!!!!!!!! Mike
  8. I am still new to this hobby. I have learned there were many many makers of phones back then. Each maker did things just a bit different. Some were just painted metal ... some brass ... some plated with nickle ... some chrome. These are actually the last ones made ... all from the late 20's. By then they were pretty common. The earlier ones are much fancier. Both of these have "three bar" magnetos. Two others I own have "five bar" magnetos. When I first wired these two together, I got frustrated ... bells rang but now sound! It was not till a few days later I found a guy who told me they had to stand up to work. There is loose carbon between plates in the transmitter that won't touch both plates if they are not standing up. All kinds of little things people have forgotten to make old items work. As a history buff, I enjoy tracing down the history ... Like I said, I still need to make some reproduction batteries for them. They use two or three 1 1/2 volt #6 batteries. I used these same batteries as a kid to start my model airplanes. Years ago a gentleman scanned about 5 different labels. If you take a plastic tube and wrap it with a label (put a few D cells inside) they look pretty good. So question for you guys .... how can one wood from another? I know the case is a hard wood. No red hue so not red oak. Maybe white oak or maple?
  9. Hey guys .... just between plow runs .... 12" - 18" of snow here in VT today. Thanks so much for all the information !!!!!!!! The page on cleaning or refinishing was also exactly what I was looking for!!!!!! My dad and I would always argue .... in my mind he would destroy everything he got his hands on. He loved nothing better than to take a great piece of furniture and strip it, stain it and cover it with poly. This usually meant all the hardware so so it didn't tarnish. He eve took an old stand up gramophone ... gutted it ... refinished it ... and stuck a record player inside of it. I am much more the conservator ... I try to make things either as found (well in most cases cleaned up) and only complete rebuild in necessary. I have three of these old phones now ... I have gotten to of them rebuilt electrically .. and they work ... but I haven't touched the wood yet. I really need to clean them ... I think the finishes can be saved ...but I want them as much "as found" as possible. I have one that really does need stripping ... the finish is almost none existent. This one I will strip down but still want to refinish it as close to "as built" as possible. My wood finishing knowledge is limited ... thus searching for somewhere like this to ask questions. I have used all kinds of stains ... mixed and matched ... but never thought about dying wood. Just FYI .... I am a bit of a history buff ... my wife says one day I will open my own museum. These phones are great ... with two of them hooked up, neighbors and especially their kids can come over and see what it was like to make a phone call 100 years ago. I have about a dozen rotary dial phones here also ... I got through them one by one ... get them working and the put them out for everyone to try. My wife loves watching people just about jump out of their seats when they all ring. Last year I got her an old Juke Box for her 40th birthday ... it is up and running ... there is an old pinball game here waiting for me to go over ... a dial pay phone, old cans of oil, my old steel pedal fire truck ... all decorate the place. My biggest problem is that of all things, after 7 years of building, she expects me to finish the house . My wife was paralyzed in a from the shoulders down in a diving accident when she was 12. We needed a custom house and the only way we could afford it was if I did most of the work myself. We even lived in a 20 year old RV (well froze when winter temps hit -30) so we didn't have to pay rent. House is almost finished ... just a bunch of trim work yet. I have 3500 sq ft of concrete poured just outside the house for a workshop. With some luck that will be this summers project. Oh ... and I still use my old flip phone. Thanks so much again for all the advice ... now that I found you guys, I am sure I will be asking a bunch more questions! Mike PS ... attached are pictures of the two I have wired together and working (this was when I was still testing them). I am also making reproductions of the old #6 batteries that belong in the bottom of each (not he D cells for testing)
  10. Hello all! I have collected a few old wall crank phones. I have one with a problem ... the bottom piece on the shelf is missing. No big problem ... just a single piece of wood ... stops things from sliding off. Now the bigger problem ... how to make it look old and match the rest of the phone! The phone was made in the 20's and I don't want to refinish it ... just get the new piece to match. Any suggestions? I have included a picture of the phone missing he part and one with it. Thanks .... Mike
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