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MountainGaurdian

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About MountainGaurdian

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    Gopher

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  • First Name
    Ed
  • My Location
    Deary, Idaho, US
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Beginner
  • Favorite Quote
    "I believe two things to be infinite the universe and human stupidity, and I am unsure of the universe".. Einstein

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  1. The lathe already runs in a counter clockwise direction of rotation. The drill press will be in line with the lathe head and also turning in a counter clockwise direction. I was even thinking last night that I might consider bringing some old trailer frame that I welded together into a wood splitter many years ago and use that as a lathe bed to mount the drill head too permanently, and have two dedicated machines both run from the Shopsmith. This would have the advantage of being able to permanently mount things up to the metal lathe without worry of interfering with my wood turning process. The pulley set I am using to run the drill press head is easily put on and removed it just slips over (okay taps on with a hammer) and set with a set screw so that is easy and running a belt between the two and tensioning it between two heavy pieces of equipment should be easy enough to swap back and forth. Down the road I could I could still find another motor to run the metal lathe deck with as well. I will have to get the boys to help me with this one as that wood splitter frame weighs in around 500 pounds or so. I wasn't joking around when I built that thing lol... I put on a 3 inch by 18 inch 20 ton two way hydraulic piston on that and ran it off the pod control of my Case backhoe. I built a giant head for it about 12 inches tall and maybe 10 inches wide at the back and maybe a foot long. Once I idled up the tractor a bit to get good hydraulic pressure I could slam that head into wood at about 40 to 50 miles an hour, and with that wide head it would split basically anything on the first hit. The only issue ended up being safety as it wasn't uncommon for pieces of wood to fly 20 to 30 feet from the splitter as I split them. lol Yet again I had lived up to the nickname my little brother gave me years ago... Maximum Overkill... LOL... It was a very handy unit though, I just installed quick disconnects on that one pod controller and you simply disconnected the pod and plugged in the wood splitter. I would just haul the wood splitter out in the woods in the bucket of the backhoes and use the backhoe to tear apart my slash piles and when I had everything set out I would cut it up and split it up. Instead of burning those piles which terrifies me I was instead able to sell all of that wood at $100 a cord.
  2. LOL.... I spent the morning cleaning and getting that motor ready to work with and wired it up and it doesn't work.... I am sure it worked the last time I used it when it was running my old large meat grinder but it has clearly died out in the mean time. After realizing that I laughed a bit and was sitting back in my chair looking over at my lathe and thinking about old washers and dryers I have laying around and I suddenly laughed out loud when I realized...... I can just use my wood lathe to power the darn thing.... Not sure how that thought escaped me throughout all of this process. I definitely had to laugh at the stupidity of that though. Here I was wishing the 1/3 horse dryer motor was a 1/2 horse and wishing that it had a lower rpm range than 1,720 rpm. I was also taxing the brain a fair bit coming up with an efficient means of mounting the motor to drive this without interfering with my wood lathe operations. The Shopsmith motor is like 3/4 hp so it is plenty powerful enough to run this especially being geared down another 17 to 1 for the metal lathe portion. I was already designing this to be removed easily and reset up easily as the majority of the time I will be using the wood lathe, and I will never be using both wood and metal lathes at the same time so using the Shopsmith lathe to power this will work out just fine. The awesome part of that is, my lathe has variable speed and a low rpm rate of 700 rpm. If I leave the 6 inch pulley attached to the pulley set I will have a 6 to 1 reduction in speed on the first belt and then my 2.86 reduction on the second belt. This will allow me to get all the way down to 41 rpm or so on the metal lathe setup.
  3. With a little ingenuity you can redesign most anything and make it work the way that you want it to. I bought a cheap Chinese tool show stand up floor drill press for $110 back in 1996. I unpacked it and put it together and then spent a week redesigning simple little things that were poorly designed or poorly made. After two weeks I had a great machine working just as I wanted and every bit as accurate as I needed. Considering the main stream quality floor presses were running $400 to $600 I would say I came out well. I used that press regularly up until 2 years ago when the motor died, everything else on it is still in good shape so I am now using it on the end of my lathe. Cheap tools are cheap tools, but if you are willing to go the extra mile and have some ingenuity you can more than make up for the cheap design or components in the unit.
  4. I tore down my old dead rototiller yesterday to see if I could make use of the pulleys, but the largest was 6 inches in diameter and was unusable for shaft size, plus the issue of figuring out how to mount it to the existing pulley set. The uhmw worked out incredible though, I am amazed at how relatively simple that was using the lathe. I have many times tried to mount one thing to another and "attempted" to get them centered and balanced, until now I have never actually managed to accomplish this feat. As of today I have done it, and done it well.... If I thought I was impressed with lathes before, I am thoroughly impressed now.... This is three pieces of 3/4 inch uhmw plastic attached together to make this addition. The first piece is stepped in two sizes and fits inside the top of the pulley set in the hollow. I drilled tapped and mounted that inner piece with three small bolts, then I drilled and tapped a 6 inch diameter piece to the inner piece. The 8 inch piece is also drilled and tapped and held on to the center piece with four small bolts. The thing fit perfectly on the first fitting, no play no wobble no nothing, I was blown away... This addition is balanced, centered and smooth turning. I couldn't count the number of times I have "attempted" such a feat in the past and failed miserably every time. I never realized how easy it is to center and balance on a lathe, man the wasted effort and time I could have saved over the past 40 years had I been aware of that...
  5. This is the first piece of three, I will make my six inch pulley and then the piece that will fit inside the top of my original v belt pulley assembly. All of them with a snug 3/4 inch hole in the center that I can run a 3/4 inch hardwood dowel through to keep them true while drilling and tapping them for the screws to hold them together. Then on to coming up with a way to attach my driver pulley set onto the dryer motor, those dang things always seem to have a weird shaft size on them. Once that is done it is but a short step to having metal/plastic lathing capabilities on one end of the lathe and wood lathing on the other end. It took a bit to figure out a way to mount the drill head without it being complicated to setup and remove but I have it figured out now. The only time I would need to remove it anyways is if I am doing full bed length work, for most things I can simply use the drill head as my live center. Quite happy with how it is all going thus far.
  6. I remembered I had some 3/4 inch uhmw plastic that I used many years ago to build my dad a fancy saddle horse that had adjustable wings made of the plastic sheets that he could screw and mount the saddle skirts and whatnot too as he built his saddles. He gave it back to me a few years back as he is unable to work on saddles anymore along with about 50 saddles and a truck load of old horse tack and leather and whatnot. I am never going to use it for saddles so I repurposed the plastic to use for making my new pulleys. I have almost finished the 8 inch v belt pulley, I need to kick it out an extra 3/4 inches from the original pulley set so I figured I would go ahead make that spacer a 6 inch pulley in case I may ever need a higher rpm range later on down the road. I remember Dave at Howell cnc always complaining about how tough it was machining that uhmw plastic for us when I worked for Golftek, I was a bit concerned about tough it might be to turn that. It actually hasn't been that bad yet, it is definitely a bit grabby especially considering these were old machine bases originally that reclaimed and then I drilled and tapped more holes in them for the saddle unit. When you cut into one of those screw holes it becomes a tad interesting...... I figured out if I use my cutter upside down I can cut without any concern for gouging, the same cannot be said for cutting with the tool right side up.... You also have to give the tool and the plastic a break pretty often to keep it from heating up too much. Overall I am quite happy with how this is turning out, and I think this was a far better way to go than using wood for a pulley. This stuff is great for drilling and tapping threads into it.
  7. Been working on setting up my old drill head on the end of my lathe and powering it so that I can use it for low speed lathing such as metal. Trying to design it so that it will be plenty sturdy and solid enough yet easily removable has been a tad tricky but going pretty dang well overall. I have an old dryer motor that I had set up years ago on an old washing machine lid to run a meat grinder that I though I would use to power the drill head, after two hours of lightly sanding the case to see what the rpm range on the motor is it wasn't friggin marked on it... lol... It looks like 1750 rpm from looking up the part number on the internet at 1/3 HP, so I am going to have to do some gear reduction even with the built gear reductions of the drill head. If set to the smallest pulley selection on my drive pulley to the largest pulley on my idler pulley and then run the smallest from the idler to the largest on my drill shaft pulley I still can only get down to 153 rpm. 1750 rpm on 1 inch pulley to 4 inch pulley... 1.75 inch out put pulley to 5 inch pulley.... Should be reductions of 4 to 1 and then 2.86 to 1. If I could make an 8 inch diameter wooden pulley to set atop my idler pulley set I could drop the minimum rpm to 76-77 rpm which would do most any small metal lathing that I would need to do. Anyone here ever made a v belt pulley out of wood before? What considerations should one take into account on a wooden v belt pulley?
  8. Our last two potato mashers have been about 2 1/2 inch diameter pieces of firewood that I sanded down smooth, they work great. For cleaning them we wash them a few times and then I run them on the sander again to remove anything that has potentially embedded into the wood. That is all I have used for mashing potatoes for the last 12 years or so. After getting the basic mash then I move on to the electric mixer to get that nice fluffy creamy texture going. I also use the potato masher when I make my refried beans as well, I cook them over night in the crock pot and use the wood/stick masher to break them all up and then I run the electric mixer through them to make them nice and creamy and mix in the spices and ingredients properly. I can't say that I had ever thought of making one that fancy though, I have just removed any bark that might fall off and sanded them smooth.
  9. LOL... When I was a kid and they xrayed my teeth the dentist would literally call every dentist for miles around and they would all come over and look at my xrays. Apparently that many teeth is rather uncommon especially the fact that mine were also fully formed teeth, I guess malformed teeth are more common, none of them had ever seen a person with a full extra set of teeth. At school the kids called me "shark boy" as I had teeth everywhere in my mouth.
  10. I always have a high pitch in my ears, but it gets far worse when the infection gets up in there. Last time it got bad it burst my eardrum, that was not a pleasant experience... As for the extra 46 teeth I no longer have them, they were slowly pulled from about age 6 to age 13 then I had braces for 7 years to move the remaining set to where they should go. The only molars I have had pulled were my four wisdom teeth, they had to pull them before allowing me out in the fleet. Like yours mine had to cut into four pieces and removed. Even then it was tough as I have roots that curl in towards each other. The Navy dentist was yelling and throwing crap around the room he was so frustrated trying to get those teeth out. He asked me several times... "are you part black or something"?... As it turns out.... my great grandmother is of north African descent so apparently I am... I am little fearful of a dentist getting in there and potentially breaking my jaw again, it is already in bad shape as it is, if they get in there jerking around like that Naval dentist they could potentially break it again, as it is I am missing two chunks of jawbone that I know of that were eaten away by infection and that was 30 years ago. I hate to imagine what all could be eaten away at this point.
  11. I rinse with salt water and baking soda every little bit. I also use thin slices of ginger root on the gum as well, but this a pretty bad bone infection. I have been dealing with it since I was about 6 or so from combination of previously broken jaw and having an extra 46 teeth in my jaw. After 44 years of dealing with the infection it is pretty much constantly there at all times and then if get sick or don't get enough rest it flares up and runs into my neck and up into my ear and down the right side of my throat to my chest. As for the two abcesses I have coming out of the gum I just use a needle and pop them every couple days when they fill up with puss. Eventually I am going to have to have them go in and do a debridement surgery on my jaw, but the VA is a bit of a pain in the butt on such things so I have been avoiding it. My wife is paraplegic and had her right leg amputated 4 years ago and has been on bed rest since. I just don't really have the time to be down myself or I can't care for her, but it is getting to the point that I may have to get the jaw worked on before it gets too much worse.
  12. Haven't been able to do anything on the lathe the last few days, jaw is so swollen that the swelling has traveled into the cheek up into my ear, the back of my neck and up the back of my head... Think I may have to go the friggin doctor for this again, I hope they listen better than they did the last time 4 years ago. Being unable to sleep for the last couple days I have had the chance to watch a "lot" of videos... lol... While the bowls and cups/vases and ornaments and all look cool and will be great practice for me to learn "how" use the lathe, my end interest/goal is more along the lines of this type of activity. I am quite fascinated in ancient technology, you see skill and capabilities approaching that of what most modern folk can do literally thousands of years ago. This has always quite impressed and fascinated me. These are two videos showing pump hand drill "use" in one video and an ancient Greek reproduction in another revolving around the the technology that was around and being used in the time period that the Antikythera mechanism was built. I was quite impressed with this mans skills and engineering savvy. This is a Japanese abacus maker, he has an entire series of videos showing his production methods, some of the most amazing videos I have ever seen. He is still using a pump drill for much of his work just as was used literally several thousand years in the construction of these. The craziest part to me is how effective, accurate and easy the tool is to use, they are actually quite comparable to modern electric drills. This next video of the manufacture of an ancient style of pump drill as would have been around in ancient Greece 2,00 to 3,000 years ago. As I said, this guy astounds me with his skill and ability, and his pump drill design is pretty friggin amazing. I would love to try a similar design idea in wood as I become more skilled.
  13. I have seen a guy on youtube does "pohl barn" something or other and he uses the pastes and cremes and he seems has used some some sprays after having used the pastes and whatnot. While I am new to turning, I have been actively woodworking for well over 40 years and I have always avoided wax on anything that I was going to coat with a finish, I can think of many a warning on a can to be sure to remove all wax residue before applying. Once something is finished then sure, you can wax the heck out of it but I was pretty certain that you cannot wax before if you want it to stick to your work properly.
  14. The wife wants me to make a top for this and shape the edges like an acorn and put an acorn stem on it as a handle. Trying to think exactly "how" I would go about doing such a thing. Was thinking I could put the bottom of the lid to the face plate and then tool in with a flat bit from the side and leave the central piece the same diameter as the inside of the first piece. Then as I get toward the middle of the next burl I can leave an umbrella shape facing the faceplate. Tool out the top almost smooth leaving some irregularities. Then cut off the center piece attached to the faceplate and run the edges on the small table top scroll saw to get the acorn top shape and then do a little bit of hand carving. I can carve a small acorn stem top out of a separate piece of wood and drill and glue that in as a handle set at a bit of an angle to the top maybe. Then color the top a slightly darker color. Still working it out in my head, to see if there are going to be any hidden surprises with that... lol... Yes pine can be terribly sappy, the Scots pine I have growing here on the farm is so bad that as I am milling it you can see the sap literally "pouring out the side trailing the cutting blade. After a day of milling that stuff I am literally covered from head to toe in sap. The only thing I have ever found with even close to that much sap is a spruce that I cut up from the front yard. These pine burls do not have a huge amount of pitch in them, though you can smell pitch strongly in them as you are turning and when they are done. They remind me of a little hand carved frankincense box that I bought at a market in Abu Dhabi in the UAE, with the crazy and lasting strong scent of the wood. I will have to experiment with different ideas on these, I certainly have no shortage of the things.
  15. So you can spray finishes on after applications of wax into the wood surface? That was my concern, with most things that I have dealt with outside of this arena you have to be sure and clean all waxes and oils etc from a material before most sealers and varnishes and the like will properly adhere to your material.
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