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FrederickH

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Everything posted by FrederickH

  1. Thanks. Drawings took about 2 weeks, off and on, or 10 hours of drawing, measuring and erasing(lots). The actual build was around 4 months, again off and on, or about 100 hours. I've got two other spice chests that I've built and one relates to the Philadelphia style. I'll try to post a few photos of that one later today. The other chest was a copy of one that was built in York County, PA(according to the photo in MAD).
  2. It wasn't a surprise that I found a project in the catalog "Spice Chests of Chester County". I had been looking for a challenging project and found one in the duplication of one of the spice chests. Using only photographs, I proceeded to draw up a full scale drawing of the chest. This alone was a challenge and took me many tries to get the drawing to look right in both size and proportion. Little did I know that the rosettes and finials were Victorian replacements. When "Fine Woodworking" came out with articles on Philadelphia finials and rosettes, I removed the Victorian ones and replaced them with period correct ones. The primary wood is walnut, the secondary woods poplar. The chest is a 1/2 scale of a tall chest-on-chest(tallboy) made in Philadelphia, c. 1775 and is made in two sections.. the lower and upper portion. Unfortunately, I didn't think to take photographs during the build.
  3. This project started when I saw a similar carved tray, at the local auction, that has been done by Jim Smith, from Shippensburg, PA. I had carved a similar tray, like this one, several years previously that I had seen in Maine Antique Digest(MAD). A friend of mine had gifted me a walnut leaf, from a 150 year old dropleaf table, and I had been saving it for that "special" project. Jim allowed me to photograph the tray at the auction and I proceeded to carve a "larger"version of his tray. The tray is called a cutlery tray and was designed to hold knives, forks, and spoons and right now, this tray is holding candy and is on our dutch cupboard. The wood was so hard, anything beyond razor sharp wouldn't do the smaller, detailed cuts. The corners have been dovetailed to hold the sides together. I also did a "practice" copy in basswood.... remember that both sides of the divider had to be carved. It was finished with 3 coats of shellac, rubbed out in between coats, and then lightly buffed to remove the final shiny finish.
  4. Thanks and this was done over a two week period. Probably 20 hours in all? While I was doing the gilding on everything, I decided to try to gild two Nantucket sea shells, to see how the process would work. I think that they came out well and were gifted to my two grown children. Christmas gifts for this year???
  5. Thank you. Eventually, I'll get the layout of forums.
  6. I've always admired the Rhode Island group of cabinet makers/carvers, especially the Goddards and Townsends. Viewing their work is looking at pure Americana and I wanted to try some of their more elaborate carvings. Hence, the concave/convex shell that they are famous for. Here's a short series of photos showing how this was done. The carving was followed by gilding.
  7. Thanks, the workbench from a tool dealer named Ben Alexander, near Carlisle, PA. I was told, and found evidence, that it was from a defunct woodworking company in Hanover, PA. The bench has some "waves" in it from someone trying to level it with a belt sander. I keep an assortment of shims that use to level out any boards that I'm working with. The paint is some "Old Strubridge" paint that I have.... oil based. This "box" is one of the more simpler pieces that I've done over the years. I'll try to find photos of some other pieces that I've done and post them here.
  8. My wife has /does collect artwork and she is always in need of storage chests. I decided that my next chest would have 12 raised panels, be painted, and made to her specifications(to fit some artwork). I selected poplar wood because it works/planes well and I have a few 100 board feet of it. The construction was a combination of power tools and a finished surface with hand planing of all of the surfaces. The chest is made of solid wood.... nothing plywood. Mortise and tenons were used to join the frame members and then pinned together. A half mortise lock secures the contents. The photos show the parts of the construction from beginning to end.
  9. Here's a vise that I picked up this weekend for very little money. I'm told that this is a "removable" vise for farm/field work and that extra holders/bases could be purchased and placed in different locations. The vise can be swiveled and rotated 360 degrees, removed from the base, and used as a giant clamp.
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