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About dmypub

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  1. My countertop is 24 inches wide. I have cut all my tiles and have them laid out on the countertop and have done a level check. There is one area where there is a bulge in the cement board that I never noticed - There's a 1/8 inch drop over the distance of one foot. Do I buy tile levelers, or is there another way to fix this problem ? I don't see any shims advertised that install under tiles. It looks like I need to build a very small area up about 1/8 of an inch. Do I just add more mortar to my cement board or is there a better method to bring the surface up 1/8 of an inch
  2. The best I could come up with was Formby's. I put a coat on, let it dry, added another coat, then came back the next day with my rotary sander. This worked for me. I never found any detail sanders I liked. I didn't want to spend my entire summer detail sanding my cabinet doors so I lowered my expectations - I don't care if the cabinets aren't perfectly polished. Also, the stain I chose was pretty forgiving - areas where I didn't completely sand the existing finish off just came out looking a bit darker, but I decided I don't care as long as the area was prett
  3. Reno. I usually just go buy what I need for each project. Probably will just find a vendor who sells cabinet doors and see if they can provide in needed dimensions.
  4. Yes, I see some links doing a google search - I'd rather find a place that has a good track record than just roll the dice and hope for a good experience with an unknown internet vendor. Thanks for all your responses. My oak veneer plywood (house built in 1983) looks pretty cheap. I'll take a look at some new product at HD !
  5. I am in need of some plain old red oak slabs for end pieces in my kitchen cabinets - right now I have plywood oak veneer. Dimensions are: 12 by 30 inches 24 by 54 inches 24 by 84 inches 24 by 36 inches Any leads where I can buy this, much appreciated ! Doug
  6. Shopping for "furniture strippers", I have narrowed down my research to two products. My local favorite paint store sells "Jasco", which I understand has some MC. The alternative is "Formby's Refinisher", which I see gets some good reviews. Anyone use either of these two products ? Thanks
  7. Been out on medical leave the last several days, but I'm finally back on this. Thank you for your responses. So my house was built 35 years ago and I have no idea if my cabinet doors have been replaced sometime. The existing doors (look like red oak) have a "golden oak" finish. It took me one hour to sand the finished door - hoping I can cut this time down somehow. I have 30 doors to refinish. I put "WATCO Danish Oil" stain on the door I finished. I'm not worrying bout being super perfectionist - I'll be happy with a rustic look. Here's a side by side pictu
  8. I'm sanding off a golden oak stain and varnish and replacing the stain with a mahogany Danish oil stain. I think the Danish oil is a combo of stain and a finish. Great suggestion on possibly stripping - will check that out.
  9. Thanks stick486. The foam mold idea looks like a great solution..
  10. I'm a newbie to this task. I have red oak kitchen cabinets that I want to sand and restain. My problem is the length of time it takes to sand down ONE door. and I have about 35 doors to refinish. They are what I believe are called "raised panel" doors, but there are about 6 different edges - 4 are about 1/8 inch. In addition, the surface of one inset has a curved profile. I bought a rotary sander that works great on the flat areas. BUT, I am shopping around for "detail sanding" tools and not having luck finding the right tool. Yes, I found a sanding sponge with an edge - still a lo
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