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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

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Fastback

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About Fastback

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    Gopher

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  • First Name
    Paul
  • My Location
    Attleboro, MA
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    You got me, you figure it out!
  • Favorite Quote
    When there is a will there is a way.

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  1. Excellent job for sure! A good place for that attachment would be with the drill chuck at the spindle. Maybe, I'll have time to make one sometime. Paul
  2. Thanks Grandpadave, I really have been busy and things are going well for me. I finished building my sawmill this spring, and I hope to get some wood sawed this fall. I also hope I have not hi-jacked the thread. I do have to admit that I could not have built the mill without the lathe etc. Paul
  3. Well it looks like you have the material to start you on a new hobby. I can offer one machinist site that will be helpful and that is the "Machinist Web". This is a site that will not look down on you as new to machining an help with any questions you may have about your new acquisition. Paul
  4. Grandpadave is right I have not been here for some time. Being retired takes all of my time and energy. Yes, I do have a 9 inch South Bend as well as a 10 inch (10L also called a heavy 10) . Irishwoodcarver, you have a real nice lathe there It is a model A, which is the top model of the 9 inch lathes. This thing can do a ton of work. It has power longitudinal as well as cross feed. What makes this the best model is the quick change gears. This is used for feeds for turning and threading. My model is a model B which is the same as yours with the exception of the quick change gears. They also made model C which is a manual lathe no power feeds except for the threading and I guess you can also use it for turning on the longitudinal axis. I do wish you luck finding a class on lathe operation. We do not have much of anything around here. However, there are a ton of informational videos on you tube that will help you out. Look for Mr. Pete on you tuber. Also, there is a book that was put out by South Bend that is great. Its " How to run a lathe" not a large book but has all the information to get started. I think you can even download a free copy of an early version. You lathe may be from the 40's you can find out for sure with the serial number. I think you can still get the original shipping sheet from Grizzly for a price. I think I payed $10 for each of mine. Grizzly bought the South Bend brand a few years back. Good luck, Paul
  5. I don't have a DRO, but I do use a 4 inch digital caliper on the tail stock to read the quill movement. In addition, I made a holder for a dial indicator to measure the cross slide. My lathe is a 1942 Heavy 10 or 10L, with 4 ft bed. It was originally built as a Tool Room lathe, it also has a taper attachment and a 1 3/8 inch spindle bore. This old lathe has a plaque on it that indicates that it met the war boards requirements. I can't turn in reverse because it has a threaded spindle end. I can thread reverse threads by starting at the chuck and turning towards the tailstock. I did install a 2 axis DRO on my mill and really like it. Oh, I will check out the machining site. Thanks.
  6. I also am not a machinist I just try to do the best I can. Sometimes the projects come out well and some times they don't. No, I have not tried my hand at casting. At the present, I have way too many hobbies I am trying not to add any more to them. I can't say I work a lot with aluminum. I have a very good inventory of cold roll steel, probably 2 and 3,000 lbs. I also have some A2 and O2, but nothing to harden it with. That 1440 will do most anything you need to do. I have heard that Matt does a nice job setting them up before they are shipped. Nothing wrong with the Jet mill either. Had my surface grinder given to me. Its a decent machine 6 x 18, manual.
  7. Well no I am not a machinist, but I did sleep in a Holiday Inn last night, not really. I did work in my uncles tool room for a couple of years on Saturday mornings. He asked me to come and work for him, but it was the money and retirement thing that keep me out. Actually, I come for a family of tradesmen. On my mother side her brothers were mostly tool makers (as well as their children) 2 of my uncles had their own businesses and 1 was very successful and is still in operation today the family took over. My uncles are all gone now. On my fathers side they were all carpenters, builders or cabinet makers. They also have all passed. My trade, well I was in the water and wastewater industry. I retired in 03 at the age of 54 and have been playing ever since. I guess love for working with my hands came from them and I am proud to be able to somewhat carry on from what I have learned in both the wood and metal trade. I also attended a welding school for a few years and did work doing that for a year or so. Paul
  8. I agree, my thought is that it may have fallen of a truck. Oh, it was 14 awg wire. I ended up getting a 9 foot replacement type cord. It was the cheapest way out. I should have gone with a 15' extension, but I Iet the price rule the day. All and all I have $30 into this saw and I must say I am liking it. The model tag has been scraped, but I think it is a model DW 708 Type 1. It was assembled in the USA. So now I am on to the next project of making a Gray Hoverman TV antenna. I getting tired of the high cable bills. I believe I can save $150 per month. I cut some of the pieces yesterday with the Dewalt to try it out. Thanks for the support, Paul
  9. OK, I'm back. I finished up on the bushing and dry fitted the table to the base and it really worked out well. I have no play what so ever. So I started to reassemble the saw. Unfortunately, I found that I had another issue that needed to be addressed and that was the vertical and bevel alignment pin. It look to be a 1/2 inch in diameter and about 3 inches long t)hat had a bend in it . The bend was out at about .250 ( I for got to measure when I first started. I had to decide if I wanted to turn a new one or try to straighten the old one. I opted to try to straighten. Well after 3 tries using my 12 ton hydraulic press and couple of Vee blocks I was able to get it within .010. I think this will be OK, but if necessary I guess I can always turn a new one. I meant to take pictures of the saw reassembled, but forgot so I'll see if I can get one the next time out. Anyway, I did get a couple of pictures of the pin. I never took one when it was finished but you get the idea. BTW, the saw does work well. Noticed that you can not read the dial indicator because of the lighting, but I believe the reading at the end (picture 3) was about .075. An that was after the first press try. The fist dial picture shows where the bend started. Paul
  10. The saw draws 15 amps and #14 technically is only for a max of 15 amps. There is no marking on the wire that was left on the saw, but it sure looks like 12 AWG. I am looking to put a 10 ft cord and I don't want to be affected by voltage drop. I don't think that the upgrade will cost all that much more it is only 2 conductor with no ground. I was going to check the price of extensions and see what they are getting for a heavy duty cord so I think we are on the same wave length, thanks. I do like the idea of a sealed plug. Oh, I did a little more on the aluminum replacement part tonight. I was able to cut a cove on the mill the remove some of the excess material. I also pressed it in place and used some Lock Tite to solidify the fit. I still did not get any more pictures of the project. Paul
  11. No pictures today, but I did get the bronze bushing made up and installed. I did a dry fit and everything seem to be good. I still new to remove some material from the top of the new piece and then I can Lock tite it in place. At that point I can buy some replacement 12 AWG cord and plug and I should be good (I hope). I'll try top take more pictures tomorrow. Paul
  12. So today I made the bushing and got it bored. I also started on the base setting it up an boring it over size so I can make a bushing and get get it fit. So here are a few more pictures. Picture 1 shows the new part with the bushing installed. Picture 2 shows the turntable right side up and the new part extending upward. Now you may notice the black mark lines in the picture this is some of the material I will need to remove. Picture 3 show the base set up in the mill with a center finder set up. The center finder's increments are in .0005 (or 5 ten thousands) of an inch. I was able to get it within 2 tenths (.0002) The center finder was bouncing, but this should certainly be accurate enough for this job. .
  13. So I did not get much time in the machine shop today. I have some other projects that are higher priority. Anyway, I spent a an hour finishing up the bore on the part that takes the place of the original cast aluminum. The bore is deep enough to keep the bolt and nut recessed so the saw blade does not come in contact with them. So here are the pictures. You will notice that I left a small shoulder to act as a stop at the table. I am hoping to be able to TIG well the new part in place on the other side of the base. That would make the pivot very solid. If I get a chance I will work on making the bronze bushing for the over size hole and reduce it to 3/8 inch to match the bolt. I am also thinking of installing a bushing on the base for the bolt hole. The hole is a bit oversize and is not really centered. That will need to be done in the mill. Paul
  14. Hey P_toad, I juat saw your post and your right (LOL) they had a sign up looking for volunteers. I'd be afraid because I would end out buying everything. I did ask about the drill press and they said it worked. I failed to ask about the saw and that is my bad, but I only paid $15 for it. I'll chalk it up to a learning experience and leave it at that, but I'll know better next time. Did not get a chance to work on the piece today but will try for tomorrow. Paul
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