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Everything posted by difalkner

  1. It just occurred to me as I looked at the photos that I didn't mention, nor does it show, but the figured Walnut border on the lid is angled 7.5°. I cut those strips about 1/16" thick and then had to miter them at the corners. With very thin veneer that's pretty quick and easy but with pieces even 1/16" thick that has to be a compound angle. Came out ok, though. Also, I used rare earth magnets on either side of the Red Palm to keep the lid closed. David
  2. A friend builds some very nice custom knives and we've been talking about a collaboration on Etsy, for him to build the knife and me to build a box. He didn't have a knife ready but I built a box anyway. And I built a knife... The box is Walnut with Figured Walnut accents and Red Palm handles, finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. The knife is Curly Maple, Red Palm, and Figured Walnut, finished is French polish Shellac. Enjoy! David
  3. This was not a difficult project but the Walnut is so pretty I figured I'd show y'all. Originally they wanted me to cut all the detail in the IG Badge but it was over 19,000 nodes and it brought Fusion 360 and my computer, which ain't too shabby a computer, to its knees. Each time I would make a slight change in the file to clean up a jagged edge or something it took my computer and F360 about 15 minutes to refresh and hand control back to me. Ultimately we settled on the trophy shop doing the detail on the laser and I would just cut the outline and add the block on the bottom for a brass plate. This has a couple of coats of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and gloss lacquer and it's about 14" tall x 9 1/2" wide. The knot and cracks look far more pronounced in the photo than in reality and are very smooth. There will be so much laser burning in this area that I don't think it will be noticed anyway. When I talked to them a couple of days ago they indicated they'll probably want 10 to 12 of these. Here's the graphic - Front view - Close up - Back - Like I said, not difficult or really worth of a thread but I just love the Walnut so y'all get to see it. David
  4. Thanks, Dave!! To be clear, I don't have an ATC (Automatic Tool Changer) so the bit changes are manual and I have to set zero each time. Bit and collet changes take about 30 seconds and setting zero takes another 30 seconds so the time for bit changes is low. I have cut Walnut at 200 ipm a few times but usually cut at 175 ipm. These trivets represent such a small area that going much faster than 125 ipm is pointless and actually causes the CNC to jerk around quite a bit with the higher speeds and I don't think it cuts any faster. It is typically cutting less than 2" before picking up and getting a new bite so it may not even be reaching 125 ipm even though Mach4 is reporting back to me that it does hit that occasionally. Now on the perimeter cuts and full depth clean-up cuts it definitely reaches 125 ipm. And I am in agreement on the speed vs. me trying to do it by hand - it seems awfully fast relative to how I use my plunge router and router table. I just don't get anywhere near that speed when I cut by hand. David
  5. Thanks! I'd love to tell you I've never had the two touch but if you look at the end of the nozzle you'll see that would be a hard sale... Davd
  6. Here is the video for making these trivets - David
  7. Thanks, Dave! The guy who ordered them said his wife has 6 sisters and all names start with 'B'. Their dad nicknamed them B1 through B7 according to birth years. I guess it worked for them. David
  8. When we opened our Etsy shop a year ago I offered a Superman style trivet and the option to have it customized with the letter of your choice. I had made one with the S for my son because he likes to cook and I thought it would be cool. Turned out the very first order we got was for a customized trivet with a 'C' instead of the S. The finish is straight mineral oil and the notches are to allow air in/out since these are trivets for hot pans. This is the 'C' we did - This is the original - Nobody has asked for one since that first order but all of a sudden this week we've gotten two custom orders. The first one was for a set of 7 trivets with B1-B7. Doing one letter is easy because I can fully support it around the perimeter but doing two meant thinking through the support to keep the numbers from breaking off or chipping while cutting so I added a cross-grain triangular piece on the back side. These are the B1-B7 trivets - And the back side with the cross-grain piece - The next order came in the day I finished the Walnut set and this one is Maple with cherries. I had to make sure the stem of the cherries was thick enough not to break off during cutting but not be so thick that it looked odd. I'm working on a video of the cutting and should complete that soon. What's neat about that is I used the CNC to cut all the way through the 3/4" material in one pass. In addition to the table saw, planer, drum sander, bandsaw for resawing and other tools in the shop there are 11 different steps in cutting these on the CNC with a lot of bit changes so it wasn't really a simple 'push the button and wait' sort of project. Enjoy! David
  9. The laser shop sent me a photo of the finished boat prop with the Walnut plug I cut. They used their new color machine to match the colors and artwork of the boat name. The boat owner was ecstatic, so on to the next project! David
  10. I had a request last week to cut some Enigma cipher gears - two sets of 5 with 12", 6", and 3" gears. I also cut a drill guide for them so they could properly place the dowel axles (or spindles) I provided. One set has an anchor cut into where one spoke would be because the theme for the room is submarines. They're going to paint these and didn't want engraving on the teeth. These will be for an Escape Room. Fun job, actually, so we're going to offer these in our Etsy shop. David
  11. These are fluorescent and don't get very warm, Gerald. And to me they were pretty inexpensive. My daughter spent about $80 for the backdrop cloth, stands, umbrellas and stands, and all the related gear to stow it away in a neat and tidy carry bag. When she moved out few years ago she didn't want to take it with her so she gave it to me. It's always hers to me and if she wants it I'll package it up but she used it once and I've used it hundreds of times. The lights aren't very bright but the setup is nice for shadow-free photography. David
  12. But you DO have a CNC, improvise! I was asked to make a plug to go into the end of this boat prop so the plug can be engraved with the boat name. An older couple sold their large boat to a younger man and they told him of all the times they went on 3 and 4 day trips out into the Gulf off the coast of Louisiana and took their kids and grandkids. Because the new owner planned some upgrades, including newer props, he thought it would be a nice gesture to have a Walnut plug put into one prop and give it to the older couple as a sentimental keepsake. So I cut the plug on the CNC and now just have to shoot some lacquer on it so the laser shop can engrave the boat name. They'll epoxy it into place. Not worthy of a video but an odd request, for me anyway, so I figured I'd share it with y'all. David
  13. Almost two years ago I fired up the CNC for the first time and right away decided to cut a sign with several bit changes, varying depths of cut on the letters, generated in one G-code, and no clue how to make bit changes once it took off. But, it was an inexpensive and soft piece of WRC so I let 'er rip. Well, I completely messed it up and kept the piece as a reminder as to what happens when you get in over your head. The other day I decided I would modify the file because I know a WHOLE lot more about Fusion 360 now and thought I'd see if I could cut the sign properly on the other side of the same board. Here's the one from Dec. 2016 - And the one from this week - I haven't decided whether to paint it, stain it, or just leave it alone. If I hang it on the house it will be out of the weather and away from the sun. You have my permission to laugh at my expense - I did! LOL! David
  14. This is something I came up with a while back and have made a few but I thought I'd post a few photos of this one. It's a marriage, wedding, or anniversary sign (plaque?) in Walnut with a Maple cross. This can be hung on a wall or set on the easel I also designed. It's got one coat of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and one coat of gloss. Enjoy! David
  15. In the summer of 1974 I took the shop tour at CF Martin and got the bug to build. Then in December 1974 I traveled to Wartrace, TN, to visit JW Gallagher & Sons to visit their shop and place an order to have a guitar built for me. Seeing both in the short period of time, huge production facility but still hand made Martin guitars and Gallagher's small shop building about 75 guitars each year, just drove it home for me that I really need/want to build guitars. I had a small shop, about 10x20, in 1985 and a sacrificial guitar with a top that needed replacing, a back that was split, and a fingerboard with issues. So I replaced the top, the back, part of the neck and headstock and then refinished the guitar. It sounded very good and I still play it. But life got in the way and I didn't get to build again. So I started acquiring woods and tools and finally reached the point where it was either 'now or never' - I chose now. I want to build many guitars the first one took a while because I was building templates, fixtures, forms, jigs, etc. for each step. What took me 6 months to do on the first one I accomplished in a week on the second one. I've had to put it aside to work on other things but when I get back on it I expect it to go much quicker. And I have to tell you it is doable, not that difficult, and extremely rewarding! The biggest tool in my shed is patience - I have a ton of it! David
  16. Thanks, John! The guitar is close to the sound I want but I need to work on the intonation. It's close but I want it closer. Once I get that right, if I can ever get time to get back on it, I'll do a video of me playing it unless I can find a real picker. The sound is bright, clear, with a lot of sustain. I can strike a chord and still hear it 20 seconds later. At this point I'm glad it hasn't self destructed by the string tension! David
  17. Had an order for another stripes plaque in Walnut and Maple. This one is an SFC Stripe, about 12" x 18", finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. And for a size comparison here it is in front of the guitar I recently built - David
  18. Thanks, Lew! I get mine from a guy on eBay and the reason I use silicone rubber and SS screws is because that's FDA approved. Plain rubber or vinyl and regular screws that are cadmium plated or zinc plated, etc., are not FDA approved. The last time I bought I got a boatload of these so I'd have to find the order and see who I bought from. David Edit: I forgot how easy it is to look up old purchases on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Cutting-Board-SOFT-Bumper-Feet-Small-1-2-Medium-5-8-Large-7-8-XL/222334068775?hash=item33c424a827:m:mebGJbdrp0ieQwgvsyvNVIA:sc:USPSFirstClass!71111!US!-1
  19. Yes, another cutting board thread... sorry. This is an all Maple board 12" x 15" x 1 1/4". The top 1/2" is bookmatched with some nice ribbon in a few spots, mostly toward the left side. The reason I'm posting yet another cutting board is that I've never done one like this and that's typically what I post. I don't see any point in showing y'all cutting boards just like the last 10 or 20 I've made so you get to see the new ones and then I won't bother y'all again. Well, unless it's sort of the same with a new and interesting twist. I cut the board, drew the design in CorelDraw X8, and took the CorelDraw artwork to the laser shop I do work for and they cut it for me while I had a cup of coffee and waited the 30 minutes it took to burn the design. This was cut on a 60 watt Epilog and done in one pass. I lightly sanded the whole board with 400 grit when I got back to the shop so the tree and other burn areas would take on a bit more character. Then the standard 2 coats of mineral oil the first day followed by our Beeswax and mineral oil mix the next day. On the bottom are silicone rubber feet attached with stainless steel screws. Anyway, here's the board. David
  20. Actually took an order today to do another, albeit slightly different this time. SFC Stripe? I wasn't in the military so no idea what any of these mean but I have the artwork and will get started. David
  21. To me it's just another tool in the shop. I use it when it makes sense for time, accuracy, or repeatability. A few weeks ago I cut 30 plaque bases (posted it here, as well) and someone locally commented that I should have cut the entire piece on the CNC but all I cut was the slot for the acrylic plaque. My reasoning was simple - it took all of 10 minutes to cut the 25° taper on the front of the base for all 30 pieces. It would have taken a whole lot longer on the CNC and I would have had a lot more wasted material. But I'm ok with the CNC hybrid moniker - it's still just another tool in the shop. David
  22. Thanks, Guys! Gene, I started to put it there but I also used the planer, jointer, tablesaw, drum sander, spindle sander, chisels, and Dremel. It's not just a CNC piece that I drew and cut in an hour. Lots and lots of hand work to get it to that point. But that just tells me that the CNC guy isn't very good... these pieces should just 'fit' right out of the CNC. David
  23. I had a request to make a plaque for a Command Chief and this is what we came up with, an unsteamed Walnut and Maple plaque. It's pretty large, actually, so I included a shot of it by the guitar I just finished. The plaque is about 12" x 21" and the Maple inlays are about 1/8" thick. The finish is Nitrocellulose lacquer. David
  24. Thanks everyone! Herb, the Padauk is for a highly technical reason - I like Padauk. David

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