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difalkner

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About difalkner

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  • Birthday 07/18/1953

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  1. difalkner

    Laser Etched Cutting Board

    Thanks, Lew! I get mine from a guy on eBay and the reason I use silicone rubber and SS screws is because that's FDA approved. Plain rubber or vinyl and regular screws that are cadmium plated or zinc plated, etc., are not FDA approved. The last time I bought I got a boatload of these so I'd have to find the order and see who I bought from. David Edit: I forgot how easy it is to look up old purchases on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Cutting-Board-SOFT-Bumper-Feet-Small-1-2-Medium-5-8-Large-7-8-XL/222334068775?hash=item33c424a827:m:mebGJbdrp0ieQwgvsyvNVIA:sc:USPSFirstClass!71111!US!-1
  2. Yes, another cutting board thread... sorry. This is an all Maple board 12" x 15" x 1 1/4". The top 1/2" is bookmatched with some nice ribbon in a few spots, mostly toward the left side. The reason I'm posting yet another cutting board is that I've never done one like this and that's typically what I post. I don't see any point in showing y'all cutting boards just like the last 10 or 20 I've made so you get to see the new ones and then I won't bother y'all again. Well, unless it's sort of the same with a new and interesting twist. I cut the board, drew the design in CorelDraw X8, and took the CorelDraw artwork to the laser shop I do work for and they cut it for me while I had a cup of coffee and waited the 30 minutes it took to burn the design. This was cut on a 60 watt Epilog and done in one pass. I lightly sanded the whole board with 400 grit when I got back to the shop so the tree and other burn areas would take on a bit more character. Then the standard 2 coats of mineral oil the first day followed by our Beeswax and mineral oil mix the next day. On the bottom are silicone rubber feet attached with stainless steel screws. Anyway, here's the board. David
  3. difalkner

    Command Chief Stripes Plaque

    Actually took an order today to do another, albeit slightly different this time. SFC Stripe? I wasn't in the military so no idea what any of these mean but I have the artwork and will get started. David
  4. difalkner

    Command Chief Stripes Plaque

    To me it's just another tool in the shop. I use it when it makes sense for time, accuracy, or repeatability. A few weeks ago I cut 30 plaque bases (posted it here, as well) and someone locally commented that I should have cut the entire piece on the CNC but all I cut was the slot for the acrylic plaque. My reasoning was simple - it took all of 10 minutes to cut the 25° taper on the front of the base for all 30 pieces. It would have taken a whole lot longer on the CNC and I would have had a lot more wasted material. But I'm ok with the CNC hybrid moniker - it's still just another tool in the shop. David
  5. difalkner

    Command Chief Stripes Plaque

    Thanks, Guys! Gene, I started to put it there but I also used the planer, jointer, tablesaw, drum sander, spindle sander, chisels, and Dremel. It's not just a CNC piece that I drew and cut in an hour. Lots and lots of hand work to get it to that point. But that just tells me that the CNC guy isn't very good... these pieces should just 'fit' right out of the CNC. David
  6. difalkner

    Command Chief Stripes Plaque

    I had a request to make a plaque for a Command Chief and this is what we came up with, an unsteamed Walnut and Maple plaque. It's pretty large, actually, so I included a shot of it by the guitar I just finished. The plaque is about 12" x 21" and the Maple inlays are about 1/8" thick. The finish is Nitrocellulose lacquer. David
  7. difalkner

    1st Acoustic Guitar Build

    Thanks everyone! Herb, the Padauk is for a highly technical reason - I like Padauk. David
  8. difalkner

    1st Acoustic Guitar Build

    I've seen that when I post but haven't used it before. Tags, hmmmm… Acoustic guitar, French polish, bending wood, inlay - that sort of thing? Add 'em if you're able, fine with me. David
  9. difalkner

    1st Acoustic Guitar Build

    That must be visible only to mods. Do I make up the tags or are there some from which to choose? David
  10. difalkner

    1st Acoustic Guitar Build

    Thanks everyone! It is definitely fun to build these and I'm looking forward to the next one. I'll be happy to add some tags, Gene. Where do I do that? David
  11. difalkner

    1st Acoustic Guitar Build

    Ok, I've mentioned this many times and it's finally to a point where I can post photos. Over the last 30 years or so I have replaced tops, backs, done fret jobs, inlay, glued braces and lining, refinished, made bridges, saddles, and nuts, replaced tuners, and all kinds of repairs, etc. but this is the first guitar I've built from scratch. I cut all the wood for this including resawing the back/sides/top, cutting the binding and bracing from lumber or billets, etc. Along the way I've designed and built my own modular cantilever side bending fixture that will accommodate sizes from Jumbo down to 0, possibly smaller like a Ukulele. I'll post photos of the side bending fixture later and also built all the forms, fixtures, templates, and jigs for the build. I started the build a couple of years ago just working an hour in the evening, sometimes two, and some on weekends, but I put it aside and didn't touch it for about 8 months. I'll tell you ahead of time that it sounds good, is bright, has great sustain, and plays very easily with good action. But it may be a while before I make a video of it being played. Back and sides - Honduras Mahogany Top and bracing - Sitka Spruce Neck - African Mahogany with Maple and Honduras Mahogany center pieces Headstock, rosette, arm bevel, heel cap, and tail wedge - Walnut burl Headstock inlay - Zebrawood Fingerboard, bridge - East Indian Rosewood Binding, purfling - Zebrawood and Maple Sound port lining - Macassar Ebony Solid lining - Honduras Mahogany Side braces - Honduras Mahogany Finish - Shellac (French polish), measured just over 1 mil at the bridge The neck is bolted on and I devised a way for it to be completely removable. It can go from tuned to pitch to neck off in about 5 minutes. In the week that the guitar has been tuned to pitch it is holding its tuning as good as my other guitars. The intonation still needs some minor tweaking but I'll play it a while before working on it again. Assuming I like it enough to play in church I'll install a K&K Pure Mini pickup. If I decide to just play it at home and with friends I'll save the pickup for a future guitar. In the meantime, here are a few photos of the build and some of the finished guitar. Back bracing with Padauk glue strip - Top bracing - Gluing the back in place - Finished guitar. I didn't want a super high gloss finish but rather decided to do an old world vintage patina. Nothing against the super high gloss finishes but I have 5 guitars with high gloss finish and wanted this one to be different. Now that I've done it this way I like it even better than I thought I would. So feel free to comment, ask questions, critique. I have about 1,500 photos of the build and good documentation but these few photos tell the story just fine, I think, so I'll spare you the copious extras. Enjoy! David
  12. difalkner

    Happy Birthday David

    Thanks, Larry! It was a good day, indeed. David
  13. difalkner

    Happy Birthday David

    Thanks, guys! It's been a good day - I've been out in the shop ever since Sandy left for work. David
  14. difalkner

    High Gloss Sanding Tip

    That's the slurry from wet sanding. It's basically shellac 'dust' but since water is used for a lubricant it creates a slurry that helps fill the pores. So I don't completely remove it, just sort of wipe across the grain and that helps with the next coat of shellac. No sir, no brush. French polishing uses a pad to apply the shellac. You can see the pads in the jar to the left on the last photo. I put them in there so they don't get hard and I can use them again. David
  15. difalkner

    High Gloss Sanding Tip

    Shellac is the only finish that I'll be using. I may use lacquer on the neck for the next guitar because the shellac will wear quickly. But I've designed a completely bolt on neck and if I want then I can lacquer it later. David

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