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Grandpadave52

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Grandpadave52 last won the day on January 21

Grandpadave52 had the most liked content!

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About Grandpadave52

  • Rank
    Master Carpenter
  • Birthday 12/07/1952

Profile

  • First Name
    Dave
  • My Location
    West Central Indiana
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    You got me, you figure it out!
  • Favorite Quote
    If you keep cutting corners you end up going in circles

Recent Profile Visitors

4,742 profile views
  1. I enjoy the spring for lots of reasons but especially when the crab-apple trees start blooming. The bees show up for a few days. I often will stand under the tree canopy and just watch & listen; very mesmerizing. I've only been stung once doing so. I guess bees even have a bad day now and then. When we still had our Bradford Pear tree, hundreds, maybe thousands of bees would engulf it during the bloom. I never understood that so much since the flowers smell like puked-on sweat socks.
  2. Saw this elsewhere but thought it worth sharing. Too much You-tube video drama IMO, but the guy is talented and the "build" creation was interesting.
  3. I don't like any snake that can eat me or poison me. I'm not particularly fond of the ones that can't either.
  4. @Artie, @Roly @DuckSoup...can you weigh in on Smitty's questions? Thanks in advance for your input.
  5. I see them listed on the "bay" periodically. 101's were manufactured 1877-1962. Yours is pre-War (pre 1940) since the "lever cap" is black. After 1940 it as red. I'd have to do more in-depth research, but based on the marking on the blade, I'm guessing yours is early 1900's to mid 1920's. Sweet find. The other block plane appears to be a Stanley #61 assuming it's ~6" long x 1-3/8" wide. from the mouth opening as well as when assembled, it's obvious a low angle plane. Your's does not appear to have an adjustable mouth (portion in front of mouth opening movable) along with the metal knob indicates it's likely a #61. Actually quite rare plane due to low production numbers versus those with an adjustable mouth (much more preferred) #61's were manufactured 1914-35. Based on the adjusting knob, I'd guess early to mid 20's which may then better date your 101. If from the same owner, likely purchased at the same time or fairly close time frame. Ya' did good finding and preserving these.
  6. Same here being surrounded by farm fields. I use this . Available here in farm supply stores, e.g. Rural King, Big R, Tractor Supply.. I've never found anything better.
  7. I've seen it do that with cast iron & cast steel but not with tempered steel. A good scrubbing with WD-40 & steel wool should restore it. You might try some automotive polishing compound with the steel wool.
  8. I was wrong...just returned from the H.S.; it's raining again...temperature dropped a degree...wind is up to 20-25 mph now...real feel of 35o. So much for spring.
  9. same here,...except 5:30 PM EST; rain has about vacated but not after leaving a little sleet to officially welcome spring.
  10. Good to see there's still some humor left in the world.
  11. @Kenny Tarmack.... Best wishes to you today "Kenny" Hope it has been a great day thus far with many more to come. Hope all is well? Haven't seen you post for a while.
  12. Welcome John to The Patriot Woodworker. Great to have you join us. Looking forward to seeing more of you scroll work and other projects as well.

    Many great & talented folks here (sadly I'm neither:P) to help, answer questions and just hang out with.

     

    Jump in and joy the learning & fun.

     

    Dave

  13. Sweet finds Steve especially the No 4 Stanley. Me being me, I'd spend some time "flattening" (more of a clean up of the rust & pitting) on both once your shoulder is up to it. My first approach of late to removing the rust is spritzing the sole with WD-40, then scraping as much as possible using an old box cutter blade, then scrubbed with green Scotch-briteTM or equivalent. For the nasty ones, I'll soak in Evap-O-Rust...removes the rust but will not harm the paint or japanning. However, if there are any decals, it will remove them. VOE. Like Steven, I'll use an old belt sander belt to begin with...even as low as #36 or #50 grit to start then, like Bill gradually moving up changing over to Wet/Dry #100-#120, #220, #320, #400, then finally sometimes #600. I use either a 50/50 mix of Simple Green/water or straight up LA's Amazing Cleaner for the lapping/cutting fluid. Once done, I use a flat file to slightly relieve the perimeter of the sole removing a little extra on the toe & heel. I agree with Bill...I've yet to see any difference have the plane fully assembled versus body only when re-furbing the sole. While looking at the plane pictures, I took your full blown shop tour...hope you don't mind? NICE, VERY NICE! I couldn't help but notice this little beauty in your "collection" too. Certainly looks to be a Stanley 101 block (model makers) plane although Millers-Falls had a very similar model. I've only seen two of these in the wild...I own one of those now...still kicking myself for not buying the other. Cleaning the top of the blade (iron) should reveal which yours is. BTW...take care of that shoulder and hand first & foremost...those planes will be there when you're ready.
  14. Who told you that? Well, whoever it was may just find a broken rock on their pillow tonight.

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