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About rlpeterson

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    Logan, Utah
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    We see further on the shoulder of giants

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  1. Well, I went back to my shop and took everything out of it and got down to the motor. All of the bearings were okay, I guess you only been could have been the brushes or the motor, but every thing that I would need.....are no longer being made. Anyone want a Porter Cable paperweight? Thanks for everyone who posted, but it is beyond being able to repair. best regards, Ron
  2. I was using my Portal Cable quicksand orbital sander today and as I was sanding, the sander began to loose power, and it eventually stopped working. I had it hooked up to my shopvac during this time so it wasn't being clogged by dust. It went completely dead. I turned it on and off and it didn't turn on. I checked the power to see if a fuse had blown and when I turned the sander on, Upside down, it started and got the speed going, but when I turned it right side down it stopped. I started to take it apart but when I was trying to take the outside of the unit off, it was still connected to the bottom. I gave up to do a little more research on how to dissemble the unit. I am a bit perplexed on why the sander turned on when it was upside down. I was thinking perhaps a wire became loose. Any ideas why this could be happening? Best regards, Ron
  3. Hello, I am to the stage of finishing the kitchen cabinets I have been making for my sister ski condo. In the first time in my woodworking life, I have purposefully attempted to contain as many knots in the wood to make it rustic. The wood I have used to make them is rustic hickory. I need to fill most of the knots before I can finish with a clear coat. I have seen some YouTube videos of filling gaps with black tinted epoxy. This is what I know; you put tape on the back of the board to keep the epoxy in the gap and mix up black epoxy and pore it in the knots or gaps. Has anyone out there done this? I need some pointers where to get the epoxy and the black colorant. Best regards, Ron
  4. I am making some hickory doors for cabinets with raised panels. I had my router bit sharpened and it did a good job, but the end grain needs to be sanded. How do you go about sanding the end grain on raised panels? Best regards, Ron
  5. Hello all, I have a router bit that I think I bought from Jasada. They are now out of business. It his a rail and stile bit combined. I put it in my table last night and tried to put some Hickory trough it and it needs to be sharpened. It is a carbide bit and I would like to send it out to be sharpened. This would be the first time that I have sent out a bit and I was wondering if someone would be able to steer me towards a quality shop? Best regards, Ron
  6. rlpeterson


    A number of years ago, Wood Magazine did a review of a number of HVLP turbine systems. Based upon their "Top Tool" criteria they chose the Turbinaire system and I bought one. I have only used it once, to paint water born paint and water born poly on poplar for a dressing, make up desk for my daughter. I'm currently in the process of building kitchen cabinets for my sister condo in Dillon Colorado. I am thinking ahead and think of using the HVLP to apply the stain and poly. But I think Turbinaire went bankrupt (anyone know more about this) and wonder where to get parts for my gun if I don't have the right parts for particular finishes. Any body know if you can still get Turbinaire parts? Best regards Ron
  7. Ok, first to answer a few questions. I am making the pocket hole through the end grain into the edge of the straight grain. I have stiles of 31" and the bottom rail for the base cabinets is 2 3/4" wide, so I had drilled two pocket holes in it. The bottom screw was splitting the wood. I took Sticks suggestion to do the upper hole first and that solved the splitting problem. The other rails are 1 1/2" wide and the pocket holes in them seemed not to split the wood. If it did split the wood, I backed out the screw and got some glue in the split then clamped them and drilled the screw in and let that cook 4 hours. That seemed to correct the problem. I will have to see how the look after I do some sanding. Best regards Ron
  8. I have finished making the carcass of the kitchen cabinets for my sister (the corner cabinet was a challenge to make). I have cut all the rough hickory up into the pieces for the face frames, doors and drawer fronts. Yesterday I took out my Kreg pocket hole jig that I have had for many years but just recently attached it to a sheet of plywood. I only have a box of coarse pocket hole screws and when I started attaching the rails to the stiles, the screws split the wood on the stiles. Is this due to using a course screw? Would a fine srew be better? So Kreg jig experts, what do you think? Is there a way to join the pieces with course screws? Best regards Ron Peterson
  9. I'm finally done with making all the boxes for the kitchen cabinets. Thank you for all the suggestions to my question. Here is an update. I need to glue a 1/4" rough hickory veneered mdf on some end cabinets or other cabinets that their sides are exposed. I cut one of the sheets of the mdf cored plywood and used a scrap piece of the prefinished maple and a scrap piece of the mdf cored plywood and used DAP original contact cement to join them. I did not scuff up the prefinished maple plywood, just put contact cement on each and let it dry. It WORKED! Below are some photos of my test piece. So if you need to add something to prefinished maple plywood, DAP original contact cement will adhere it without any prep to the finished side
  10. I am starting to build kitchen cabinets for my sister. I've started cutting all the parts from the 3/4" prefinished maple plywood for the cabinets and will use 1/2" prefinished maple plywood for the shelves. My question is how much shorter do you cut shelves to fit inside cabinets on adjustable shelf pins? 1/8, 1/4??
  11. Dab, kudo's on those cabinets, they look good. But I am making the cabinets out of hickory. I haven't seen the prefinished maple plywood, it is getting delivered to my shop next Wednesday but I have bought rustic hickory 1/4 veneer plywood to cover the exposed areas. But I like Fred's suggestion. I have used rubber cement to cover some table tops in my shop with laminate. So thanks Fred for pointing that out. I will certainly come back and let you all know what I ended up doing. Best to all, Ron
  12. Hello, My sister has done some much for me in my life that I am going to make her some Kitchen Cabinets for her ski condo in Colorado. I am going to make them out of prefinished maple plywood with a rustic hickory face frame and doors. This will be the biggest project that I have ever done. For the sides of the cabinets that will be exposed, I am going to cover them with a 1/4" one sided rustic hickory on MDF. I have worked with MDF before but not the prefinished Maple plywood. I would want to glue the MDF to the sides of the prefinished maple plywood (I could only get the maple plywood 2 sided) and want to know if anyone else has faced this issue? Would I have to scuff the finish up with a low grit sandpaper, or can I use tightbond III glue straight? Best regards, Ron
  13. Hello, I have been asked by my son to build some nested tables for him and his wife. I glued up some oak panels for a tops a few weeks ago and I see now that one has a slight bow in the center. The plans my son gave me has cross pieces that you use to attach the tops to the tables. I was only going to put glue only in the center of the cross piece, and hopefully screw the bow down at the front and the back. Then at the sides I was going to put a slight slot in the cross piece and put a screw in it so it can move around. Am I thinking correctly about getting rid of the bow and wood movement? Best regards, Ron
  14. I have been looking for my jigsaw, it was a Bosch that I got from a pawn shop on eBay a few years ago and it looks like it has been stolen. I really liked it and it had the original owners name carved into it and came with many blades. It was a top handle one but can't find any information what model it was. I've been looking on line to have Santa to replace it. I see a JS260 for a good price, but wonder if is a good one for a hobby woodworker? I hadn't used my old one for a long time so I don't know when it disappeared. But when you need one, you have to have one. I can't find any information on if it is at the bottom of their line of jigsaws. Anyone out there have a JS260?
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