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Michael Thuman

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Posts posted by Michael Thuman

  1. I have a plate to mount but it has .350 dia thru hole  with 82 deg countersink.  Supposedly for #12 or #14 screws but no vix bit for that size hole is available.

    So how to accurately find the center of the hole?

    The #12 screws fit but are recessed below the surface of the plate which is desired.

    Note even sure if #14 screws exist maybe it is then measured as 3/16 or 5/16 or just what is the next size up.

    Any ideas on how to find the exact center of the holes?

    There are 6 of them in the plate and I am to make sure the plate is parallel to the bench.

    but any little 1/64" off center and it does not work.

    Any and all help appreciated.

     

  2. On 12/1/2023 at 3:30 PM, kmealy said:

    I built a Tage Frid workbench from FWW plans maybe 40 years ago, one of my first "serious" woodworking projects.  It has cross-grain caps on both ends and have not had a problem.

     

    image.png.cddd94cd88a46091d95967864068b5de.png

     Yes my end caps are cross grained also but when you cut a slot in cross end grain what you get is long grain.  Then glue in a board into the slots of both end  blocks and table.  Then for good measure bolt it in place.

  3. I had a very unfortunate visit to Northern tool.  I had a electric chain saw to get repaired.  They said over the phone bring it in.  Then when I got there after a hours drive it was a no go because it was electric.  I completely dissembled it and found that the bearing on the shaft had over heated and the plastic housing deformed badly.

    So in the end it was not repairable. But the way I was treated left me with I will probably never go back.

     

  4. 9 hours ago, Grandpadave52 said:

    Profiteering I suspect. I saw Home Depot shows "out of stock" at all locations. Wondering if this product is going the same route as Johnson's Paste Wax?

    Johnsons paste wax was replaced by natural wax paste and is very available.

     

  5. 3 minutes ago, lew said:

    Agree with @Gerald about the loose tenon. Also, it looks like the top sets ON Part I so. I would fasten with screws to Part I and elongated holes in Part I to allow for slight movement. The other thing you could do is glue the top pieces as "edge" grain up. That way any expansion would be minimized and occur vertically.

    Thanks i think I to D with a pocket screw and I to e with a pocket screw then also screw I to J which is glued to D.

    Thanks all now back to work!

  6. 20 hours ago, FrederickH said:

    I use both, depending upon the number of thicknesses of wood that I'm joining together. This can also apply to the different number of mortise and tenon joints that have to be made.

    I also asked in hand tools and most replied the wheels are for cross grain only.  Knives are best for in grain and pins are OK because pins deform the wood on both sides where knives don't but what mortise was ever put together without some type of overlap that would cover up the pin deformation.

     

  7. 1 hour ago, John Morris said:

     The really cool thing about making your own dowels or plugs like I showed, or any method for that matter, you can use any species of wood, you match your wood your working with to hide those holes. You are not restricted to the dowels they sale at the store, typically birch or poplar.

    Well my material is quarter sawn red oak.  So the plug cutter for the 1 3/8 CB will be expensive but worth it. as it will also cut in the grain direction.

    The blanks i made are in tight but are perpendicular to the grain direction.

     

  8. This process worked out great.  As he said drill a hole in some steel with the bur side up.

    Clamp the steel so the hole is centered in the DP and lock it down.

    Center the blank in your drill press and taper the end to fit inside the hole.

    Set the drill press so a slow speed.  

    I cut 3/8 x 3/8 wood then cut to about a inch longer than I needed.

    Cut off the corners with a razor.

    Put the thick end in the DP and in the hole.

    Advanced the drill press until the jaws barely miss the steel.

    Remove the wood from the DP then turn it end for end and re insert it.

    Cut off the tails that form.  

    taper that end just slightly so that it centers itself in the hole.

    Then advance the DP until tails separate from the shaft.

    Now cut it to length and dab some glue in the hole you are plugging then put glue on the blank.

    Then drive it home with a hammer.  

    I think I am going to purchase a 1 3/8 pluger so that I can plug my CB and start over.

    Worked great thanks much for the tip.

     

  9. 6 minutes ago, John Morris said:

     

    And quick, you get em today.

    I may work on them tonight and the holes it turns out is 3/8" but the process is the same.

    As for the CB turns our it is 1 3/8 supposed to be 1 1/8 so the misalignment should not cause the trouble as the holes of off by 3/32 but the counter bore is 1/4

    But for appearance sake I may get a 1 3/8 hole dowel from wood craft.

     

  10. 20 minutes ago, John Morris said:

     

    By the way, the side the drill bit exits out of the steel, you'll have a ragged edge, keep the edge, it cuts. And ram those 1/4" sticks through the hole from the ragged edge side.

     

    You can also chuck those 1/4" sticks up in your drill, and drill them through that hole in the steel, and you'll have some nice dowels/plugs.

    Thanks home made dowel.

    Certainly less expensive

     

     

  11. I need help only one of my four holes came out center on the mortise.

    The mortise is centered.

    Evidently my marking was off and now I need to fix it.

    The final hole size is 9/16"  with a CB of 1 1/8" on other side.  I also accidently made that 1.25 but in hindsight it may have just saved me.

    What you see from the pictures is that I am off center.  how best to recenter?

    gule in the dust from the first drill press DP operation and then redrill?

    The first picture is centered  the next 2 are not by about 1/8" of an inch?

    For reference that hole is 1/4" and the mortise are 3/4"

     

    20230926_135005[1].jpg

     

    20230926_135015[1].jpg

     

    20230926_135010[1].jpg

     

  12. On 9/11/2023 at 5:28 PM, kmealy said:

    5/16"   ( or 8 mm)

     

    Resawed down some quarter-sawn white oak.

    Corners were reinforced with triangular blocks and then keys. If you look carefully at the photos, you can see them.   I tried doing box joints but by the time I did 35 or so of them, they were just a bit tight and I decided to give up on that idea.

    Thanks Keith if i ever want to create this box I think my porter cable dovetail machine may get a workout.

     

  13. 19 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

    Your proposal will work well. Just be careful that the shims don't shift the tenon off center. It might have been easier to adjust the tenon to fit the mortise, but there's no loss of strength doing tit the way you suggest.

    Thanks fred that is why i was going to glue in the tenon first to secure it in place then pack it off with only hand force no hammers to break the glue joint in the first inch or so.

    Thanks again for the quick reply.

    I only get an hour or so a day to work on my new classic bench but so far I am progressing pretty well.

    I plan on posting pictures of the repair when done so all can see.

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