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Michael Thuman

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About Michael Thuman

  • Rank
    Apprentice

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  • First Name
    Michael
  • My Location
    Laporte Indiana
  • Gender
    Male
  • My skill level is
    Intermediate

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  1. My saw just uses a tapered pin with a hex end so you can grab it with plyers to get it out when you change the blade. Then you bang it in with a soft blow hammer.
  2. The Shaper interests me. Are you getting out of woodworking altogther? The G1035 is a 1 1/2 HP shaper.
  3. All as a final update by cross cut panel sled worked great and I had forgotton I made one. Similiar to the cross cut sled but only one guide and cuts flush to the blade to it is very easy to allign if the mark on the wood of accurate.
  4. All my fence can be retracted backwards behing the blade so that the dager of the kick back is removed.
  5. I have a panel sled but I need to clamp the 4 peices of wood together to cut them and one board. I can do that by clamping them all together and hopefully they do not move relative to each other. Thanks I will give that a shot.
  6. I have a table saw with a 32" right had table. That works if my peice to be cut to length is shorter than 32" . If I am cutting something 36" I can use my chop saw but that is not accurate unless you have a stop. I can use my band saw but again that can be trouble some. How do you accuratly cross cut to the final length when the length is longer that your normal tools. Because this is a stand I need 4 peices the exact same length 32 1/2" and 4 other peices the same length 36". Any advise would be highly appreciated.
  7. Most people prep their boards this way. 1. Joint one face 2. Joint one edge. 3. Plane to desired thickness. 4. Rip to Width. Here is my method. 1. Joint one face 2. Mark the Jointed face so that the grain is orientated to way I need it for my project and mark in chalk my board width. 3. Band saw the chalk lines. 4. Joint once edge. 5. Plane to desired thickness 6. Rip to width. You do waste more wood but you get much better looking projects. How do you do board prep?
  8. Well the splitter is the blade guard and they cannot be seperated. So any third party suggestions?
  9. Is it certified to be responsible harvest?
  10. Great atricle thanks for me because white oak is both plentiful around here and fairly cheap I will also add then when quartersawn it is great looking. Teak and Mahogony are too expensive. Ipe not normally harvested responsibily. Cedar light and good for outdoor furniture but it is soft so be careful. Redwood also faily soft and work well with split proof stainless steel nails. But it is from out west so its cost is higher the WO.
  11. Panel 101 construction by me. 1. Size the panels so they cannot fall out of the groves in the frame. 2. Finish completely and fully cure before assembly. 3. install in the door with anti rattle devices (balls, weather stripping, screen rope). Keeps the panel center in the frame and never allows contact between the door and panel and creates a great feature of a shaddow line. 4. Carefully finish the door masking off the panels. 5. Has worked on shop cabinents for 20+ years. 6. Because the panel never touches the frame and no finish is permitted to bridge the gap you never has any glueing on latex paints but I always use acrylic paint anyway.
  12. Thanks the allignment process is straight forward however if any of the metal is bent that getting it back to straight will probably not be worth the effort.
  13. Confirmed the splitter is causing the bind. Just did a rip with no wood on the left side of the blade with a feather board and a push stick. It cut flawlessly and left no marks on the wood. Now I ask I have never feed wood so badly that it kicked back so do I need a splitter or a splitter with a blade guard? If so go get the same one from Delta or find another where?
  14. Steve, hope it works well in the long term. What I was taught long ago if your are going to fasten the porch to the house or in your case the concrete then the posts must not heave with frost. Thus 4' deep footers are required or when the posts heave they will tear the concrete /house or rim joist apart. For surface mounted posts like yours you should construct it as a free floating deck. That way if a corner heaves the frame of the deck moves with it. I really hope this works out for you and i wish you the best of luck.
  15. I would get a garbarge can and a dust deputy or something like a cyclone to removed all the heavy debris in the can and that way the filter in the vacum last a very long time. I have one for you if you like but it was used with a delta blower style dust collector also for you if you like but it is 4" not 2" like the shop vac is. I have since upgraded to a full blow dust collector system.
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