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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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Everything posted by PeteM

  1. I made two gkids sets of basic blocks (the first photo in this conversation). I used food coloring. It makes pastel colors. Let it dry for a couple days.... or a Mom will share pics of pink tongues with you! The colors are not vibrant, but realize that to a 2~3-yo kid, esp one without any other toys, even the simplest item is a wizzard.
  2. Let's do this! And after they top out, let the plumber start soldering pipe on the ground floor. Try for July 4.
  3. PeteM

    Wooden Hinge

    Oh goody, someone left pizza in the fridge
  4. Dust: you might consider the PURPOSE before interviewing equipment. From my experience (personal and professional), I find there is a progression of dust handling. --Housecleaning: shop vac connected to tool: keeps the dust from getting too deep. Good for small volumes, hobbyist. If the space is decently vented (two doors open), the fact that the shop vac doesn't capture the fine dust isn't a big problem. Biggest drawback is the frequency of emptying the canister and cleaning the cartridge filter (you can clean them forever, don't need to replace). Handy to roll around, don't need piping installed. Good starting place, gives experience with how tools/dust interface. --Volume dust buildup: tapered centrifugal separators (dust deputy, etc) make accumulation of dust easier to tolerate because they end up in bigger cans (often a 30 gal trash can) that don't need so frequent service. The c-separator does NOT improve the final dust particulate size ejected from the fan. --Fine dust control, volume increase, but still portable (wheeled): Portable (wheeled base) DC fan/bag combo: While there are a lot of variations, these usually have plenty of on-board storage for light commercial/hobbyist volumes, and they have more control over the dust particle size ejected. Most of these start from factory with a rating of "3 micron" (or thereabouts); the rating is pretty meaningless, but it tells you the starting point. Most of these can be converted to "1 micron" bags (in a two-bagger, the upper bag has the 1 micron rating, and has to be sized for the fan volume; the lower bag is lined with an impervious trash bag). Unless you have unusual allergies or sensitivities, a "1 mic" rating is good. The portables do pretty well as compromise between air volume, storage, particulate control. They definitely are a "one tool at a time" app. Manufacturer rating of fan is about 800 cfm: ignore the reality, it won't go for that much air flow in operation, but it's kind of a benchmark. Fan inlets usually 4" or 5". --Higher volume, multiple tool capacity: stationary DC, permanent duct (pipe). Mfr rating usually over 1000 cfm*, and 5" or 6" inlet to fan. You have to be making a lot of dust (or be obsessive) at this end of the spectrum. Lots of variations on ducting. --One most important thing in ducting: look for "long radius" elbows; they're not commonly found in ww or big box stores, but you'll find them on line. Straight (smooth, not flex) duct/pipe has a trivial pressure loss compared to a standard ("short radius") elbow; a bend in flex material can be a killer to air flow. So putting your DC in a corner and running more straight pipe isn't a problem....unless it forces more elbows. Bang for buck: figure out the benefits you want before picking the equipment. Luck! *manufacturers in this industry actually have no idea what they're doing with fans, ducts, pressures. They seem to pretty much just copy what others have done.
  5. PeteM

    Need a Froe

    ooooooh, I love happy endings
  6. I do/have done a lot of energy analyses. Two things emerge: it always costs MORE than expected and the savings are LESS than expected. So I tend to be conservative, but there are many good ideas out there. However, going into competition with an electric utility isn't one of them. I only spend about $1700 per year on electricity, but our utility is known for low cost base (hydro: Arizona). But double my cost to $3500 per year for talkin' purpose. Peak loads here extend to 8 pm (equals 9 pm for all you on daylight savings time!), so daylight-only don't cover the spread, have to go with batteries. I figure a "whole house" approach to completely divorce from utility would upfront for about $25--30k. IOW, 7--9 years payback ("simple payback") for a more expensive utility than mine. My criteria for personal, residential and small commercial proposals is 3 year payback (because beyond 3, really hard to hold the variables in place: people die, move, sell the biz). At more than 5 years analysis, have to start expecting component failures, which then extends the payback. At 10 years, major component replacement becomes likely, pushing it further. Half-way measures such as 5kW solar have a high initial cost for a low savings, and utilities are starting to charge for "connect only" costs (minimum charge even if you use NO power; this is pretty typical for commercial rates, but starting to get popular in residential). The scenario that would cause me to do a stand-alone: belief that utility power might be in jeopardy. Can't live here without power unless we move to Outer Montana and live in a log cabin. At the moment, looks like we (literally) won't live that long. Cheerful news!!! ?
  7. It's like finding a piece of pizza in the fridge, and after taking a bite realizing it's a couple of months old.
  8. Course instructor recommended this book, and I found it for under $10 (with shipping), and well worth the effort. I haven't implemented all the ideas I'd like, but the first few have been very handy. It's amazing how many wood books are out there, and real bargains if you scratch around a bit.
  9. Wow. "Burn Barrel": takes me back to oooooold days, burning classified docs and PAL cards. Sarge confirmed that gasoline is not a good fire starter (he lost his eyebrows...I already knew the trick).
  10. Well, I never. Intriguing. When you decide what it is, would you share that info with the rest of us? :-)
  11. Sneer not we at Engineers. There is a whole industry (including me) employed in fixing their errors . Credit where credit is due: they break things faster than we can fix. It's called "job security".
  12. Text says 1946 NEC. Since code is updated every three years (altho not sure when the interval was back then), slide rule itself dates to the late 40's? There is a museum devoted to slide rules, and I noticed they have electrical ones. If you want history, https://www.sliderulemuseum.com/MiscUSA.htm
  13. I try to "shop local", but increasingly places like HD and Lowes don't stock things, offering to ship it in to the store (or for a premium, to my house). Or I buy something not as good that they have in stock. And of course, going to the BB store, searching the aisles, discovering that they inventory is wrong (again) and it's not there....increasingly I'm letting my fingers do the walking. For better or ill, Amazon has changed the metric. It doesn't hurt that the Phoenix area has 6 or 7 A-warehouses (and my company built 5 of them...so my retirement was partially funded by Jeff's Gang). I swim upstream just so long.
  14. WE HAVE A WINNER! I go away for a few hours and you guys all go get drunk. <sigh> Just like in Scouting. Artie, thanks for the clarification. I've been using the same little plug-ins in the house, but didn't take long in the lightless Shop Dungeon to make me regret not putting them in the shop too.
  15. Ever had a power failure at night while in the shop? 'Round here we get "monsoon" storms, and the occasional power failure. Caught me at the far end of the shop area: had to negotiate the DC duct, step down/over obstructions, bump past work table, table saw. All the while remembering how many sharp things I'd left laying about.... Bought a 6-pack at Amazon for less than the average tool. Put two in the shop spaces ('cause I don't never never never want THAT again!).
  16. My dad was proud when I graduated from OCS (in '68, right after Tet), but I never really understood how proud until my oldest son volunteered for Army (Intelligence...yes, I've heard them; he says they're partly true). The Army made me the man I am today, but they can't take all the blame! I was a C- student before joining, A+++* after getting out. It was all motivation: I just told myself that if I didn't do good in college, I could go back in the Army. That's what you learn in The Real World: not facts, not really skills, "just" motivation. *A+++: I picked the courses worth getting an A, and the others got B+ or A-. It was all transactional: I knew what I needed to get a good job, and I wasn't about to do any more work than that. What the Army gave me was the insight of what to target and how to get there. THAT is priceless. THAT is what no school teaches. I feel sorry for kids who dodge public service: they really don't know what they're missing.
  17. Heavy, dude. I'd think heavy is ok, light not so much. Time is kept by the action of the pall (?) or pendulum swing. My only experience with complex clocks was my grandmother's, so it's probably completely different than your grandfather clock. Grandma's was a cuckoo clock. When I was stationed in Germany I found that an awful lot of people in the north German woods had cuckoo clocks. Very confusing.
  18. Video shows that playing heat gun across the grain gradually turns it purple. You all owe me 7 minutes of your life, and some indeterminate amount of cheesy music. Well, maybe less. I fast forwarded. I jump through videos to get to the good parts. Oh.
  19. KIS: I already had the roller stand, and two machine screws fix wood to flange. Not shown in these pics, but I eventually put a hole in the end and hang it on the wall. Easy peasy, out of the way.
  20. Problem is that contractor style saw's motor is in the way, can't hinge.
  21. I think it depends on what you're cutting. I found I do a lot of ripping, max 48"L, up to 24" W, and I want it to disappear at times. I tried rollers, but I had a lot of trouble finding the "sweet spot" where the work just kissed onto the roller without tipping it over. So, I made a platform that's held by two machine screws + wingnuts, on top of the roller. I found that I didn't need to exactly match the TS table height, so I used 3/8" ply, and that's enough that the workpiece doesn't fall onto the floor or try to tip up while still being cut.
  22. Must be using my Garmin GPS: It likes to route things around the horn, too. Gloves: I'd wear 'em too if I was handling factory milled edges, which can be razor sharp. It's a slick system, but like all snap-together, it rarely survives the third move. Those fasteners in MDF abrade over time, but there's a good rationale for buying "one and done". Note that all these fastener concepts depend on dead-on milling, and that equates to "factory" and sophisticated automation. You can do it by hand, get the special router bit, make the jigs, but unless you're making 10,000 of them the juice ain't worth the squeeze. I agree it's clever, but I don't agree it's a universal solution. Of course the blanket box I'm planning for the spare bedroom might be a good test: what's the cost of shipping to....well let's not go further than Baja California (it has a horn) and back!
  23. Whenever looking for gentle abrasion, I start with a toothbrush, then a brass wire brush, gently and not scrubbing.
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