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Marv Rall

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About Marv Rall

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    S W MN
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  1. Dad and I have something in common--- I will enjoy my 86 on this Sunday--best wishes to dad and were thankful were on the green side of the grass.
  2. This post has caused my guilt to diminish somewhat----at least I am not alone in my guilt of not making sawdust every day----the calendar is relentless.
  3. Only in America------great story--- really admire such talent.
  4. Over the years I have eliminated "that's good enough" from my vocabulary. From my viewpoint I always do things the vary best I can----never leave something as "that's good enough"
  5. Many years ago an old electrician demonstrated a neat way to install a ground rod--- in non rocky soil----start by installing the rod about a foot -than withdraw the rod- pour in some water-and by hand start pumping the rod up and down-and the rod will easily go down-many times to the full depth. Really it works and am still of good mental capability.
  6. You have listed several friend sources-----another option would be to check out a local cabinet shop that uses an oscillating wide belt sander---did that for my one quarter sawn wide project top-----no flaws,15$ and I was on my way. Worked well for me.
  7. Been with Makita lithium since 2008----couldn't be more satisfied---in fact the original 08 batteries still perform very well-----I have a full stable of Makita cordless tools, all which have been used hard and have not failed me-----Works for me
  8. Just a thought----Maybe using thin kerf blade with original blade guard splitter?
  9. I find that I probably be swimming upstream here-- but here goes. It is my belief that a splitter on a saw is the most important safety device one can utilize. Like many I do not use the blade guard----in place of which many shop made push sticks and related safety devices are used. Also I have made blade inserts each of which carries its own splitter. For thin kerf blades specific splitters are necessary---also the same for zero clearance blade inserts. As for binding and burning generally this blade condition, splitter alignment, blade alignment, or fence setting. Over the years my practice is to set the fence .005 out. Seems to work the best. I will add that I have been at this for over 50 years---works for me.
  10. My solution to the battery problem has been Makita lithium-----bought my first in 2008----still going strong----and I have used them hard--works for me.
  11. Years ago my kids got me on the coarse----all the while I was there I kept thinking " why am I not doing something I really like to do" Have not been back since--sure did free up a lot of free time in the shop.
  12. Many yeas ago I owned a Sears chop saw------needed help with motor electricals-------learned real fast about terrible service. Adopted a conclusion--- never buy any tool from Sears with a cord. Has worked well for me.
  13. Have used a 14' Rikon for many years----really like this tool. I paired it with a Carter blade backup accessory---- don't use any blade guides, top or below the table----works very well with 1/4th blade or 1/8th . Sharp blade, as always is critical to top performance.
  14. I have moved to all lithium brand name---have no problems with leakage--yet
  15. This may be a bit off topic but------- If one ever needs to cut cast iron, or steel, try this-----with stick welder turn amperage to 225 or higher if your welder has that option-----use some 6011 rod and prepare for some excitement. Be sure to have your pant leg cover your shoe tops---those little hot buggers do burn. Back in the days when I didn't have a cutting torch that was how all my metal was cut.
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