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Phil Rasmussen

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About Phil Rasmussen

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  • Birthday 11/13/1947

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  1. On the surface, one might say that it is a medical exam table. However there are three giveaways that point to another use for the "table." The first giveaway are the large spindles on each corner of the table indicating that something heavy is probably placed on the table. The second giveaway is that one end of the table could be lifted up and is wider than the rest of the table. This implies that the table may actually be a bed without a mattress on it. The part that can tilt up is where the torso, arms and head can be partially raised. The third giveaway are the horizontal boards, near the floor, on each side of the table. Given the height of these boards from the floor and the approximate distance from the boards to the table top, my guess is that the boards were used for kneeling. Thus my deduction is that this is a viewing table for someone who died, where people can kneel down on each side of the platform to pray while viewing the body. Phil Rasmussen The Mountain Woodworker Hendersonville, NC www.mountainwoodworker.com
  2. This is a 1 minute grocery ad but that is not what is important in my mind. On my first leave in 1964 I came home to this as well. Enjoy and if a drop or two of tears fall, smile and give thanks for your serviceman/woman.
  3. Lew, How nice of your lovely wife to want you to make one of these. Â For some of us, If it were not for dear spouses, we may not be so highly challenged. Â LOL Any way, about your sanding situation, you can go it by hand or as Spence mentioned the drum sander on a drill press. Â You can also use a Dremmel or like item to can. Â Sometimes one of the electric carving machines with the flex cable can give you more control over sanding and allow fairly easy work on curves and roundovers. My favorite approach is using those 1x3 sanding pads you can get at the big box stores. The easiest approach though is to hand it off to a child of yours, or better yet get your wife involved so that she can better understand the time and effort put into her projects. Phil Phil Rasmussen, US Army-retired The Mountain Woodworker Hendersonville, NC www.mountainwoodworker.com
  4. Fred, Sorry to hear that you are having this problem.  I had one where the the bushings went out and it took awhile to get them replaced, but that doesn't help with your problem.  Just know thatyou have many brothers and sisters in the same boat. There are several possible solutions to your problem. The first question I have is: "Are the router and lift mechanism integral to each other?"     If yes:      a.  you may have to replace both router and lift.      b.  you may be able to replace only the motor. (There are web sites where you can order only a router motor.)   If no:      a.  you may be able to replace only the motor. (There are web sites where you can order only a router motor.)      b.  you can buy a router at a big box store and use it. If you can replace only the motor, check with the manufacture to see if they have a replacement or Google "router motors." If you have to replace the lift, there are quite a few available and some even have the abiity to lift the router electtrically.  The problem that i run into with router tables where the lift adjustment is on top, is that the lift handle can be a nusiance, especially it you use a bit extension on the router.  On the other hand, there are now lifts where the handle is on the side or front of the table.  My next table will be a combo of electrical lift with a front hand crank. Above I mention replacing just the motor.  I have found that this is a cheaper approach to buying a router kit and using its router.  By cheaper I don't necessarily mean in the cost of the motor.  There are three aspects to buying just a motor:    1.  you may be able to increase the horsepower    2.  you don't have the other parts that come in a kit to deal with    3.  you may be able to buy a motor that has a longer shaft (be careful on that because a too long shaft may not lower your bits down enough. Over the years I've replaced the motors twice.  Once because the original motor burned out and the second time because someone did not follow shop rules of no food or drink in the shop. Good luck.  Remember that this is a great time to upgrade horsepower and possibly the lift.  If all you are going to use the router on the table and do not anticipate hand routing, getting the motor only may be your best avenue. Phil Phil Rasmussen The Mountain Woodworker Hendersonville, NC www.mountainwoodworker.com pmrii@aol.com
  5. Lew, I know to us woodworkers, the import of knowing what type of wood we are using but to the consumer I find that most couldn't care less other than is it pretty and does it suit them. I have a client who was going over the woods I use for pens. I had regular, spalted, ambrosia, burl domestic and exotics. And what did she pick? One that I have no idea what it is. I think it is bamboo but am not sure since it was one that came out of a box marked free wood. I don't care what it is as along as she is happy with the purchase. My reply when asked was that it was a rare, unique find and I was not sure what it is, and other wood experts don't know what it is either. I've attached a photo. Phil
  6. Lew, I've turned several fruit woods but usually there is more grain in it except for some pear that I've turned. Having said that, I would suggest smoothing down the the wood and then apply clear shellac to bet a better idea as to color and grain.  You can also test a portion of the wood in the kitchen by boiling it in  a small amount of water to for the aroma or try it on the BBQ for the smoke.  Most fruit woods give off a distinctive "fruity" small/taste. Aside from any testing, I would suggest contacting the local forest service people and asking them if they thing the wood is indigenious to the state/area and their opin on what it might be.
  7. I use both the easywood tools and standard lathe tools. I have lots of the standards from different mfgs. Here's my take: I don't pay much attention to brand. Almost all of the standards skews, scrappers, gouges, etc. are made of HHS or are carbon tipped. What I look for is how the tools feel and handle. If I goe to a woodworking store chances are they have a lathe set up somewhere where I can test drive a new tool. I take my own wood or buy it at the store. I do not expect the store to provide the wood unless they are doing a demo. I have some Sorby tools which I don't like much because they don't feel right when holding them. And I have some cheap Harbor Freight chinese tools which I use a lot. The standard tools all sharpen pretty much the same way brand to brand. For the easy-wood type chisels it is important to consider the brand. Not only do the same looking cutters vary in size they also vary in availablity. These tools are used a little differently than the old standeard skews, gouges, and scrappers.  I choose what tools I use according to what I am turning. If I am turning pens, I tend to use the easy-wood tools more. On the other hand If bowls and vases, I tend to use the old standard one.  Hope this helps.  Phil  Phil Rasmussen, US Army-retired The Mountain Woodworker Hendersonville, NC www. mountain woodworker.com 828-890-8058 Â
  8. What about an air stream across the teeth? There are a couple of ways of doing this with and without a compressor? This would be similar to the air stream process that is used on scroll saws.   Gene Howe said:
  9. Gene, Here is one thought I had that you might want to consider -- split the collection hose. What am I talking about?  Many woodworkers will split the collection hose on their router benches -- one line goes to the fence and the other to the box under the router. I've been thinking of doing something similar to this. The only drawback is how does the line follow the blade when you tilt the blade, or is this even something to consider. What I'm thinking of is a 4-6" main line at the bottom of the saw box and a 2-3" line up close to the blade and near the top of the zero clearance insert. I think this will be workable especially if you do not do that much blade tilting.  Phil  Gene Howe said:
  10. It's good to see so many innovative woodworkers sharing their collection systems. Over the years I've thought about adding an overhead collection system to my table saw.  I have rejected the ones that come up and cross over the extentsion table mainly because it reduces the size of wood I could cut. Also I cannot come straight down over the blade because of a garage door that open up over the table saw. Yes I could move the saw but that would not be practical and would lead to inefficiency. So what have I done to control the tabletop sawdust? Well so far nothing. After looking at the many photos provided in the forum, I am getting some ideas. The main idea that keeps coming to mind is attacking the problem from the bottom of the tablesaw top with either compressed air or vacumn. My reasoning for this is that the sawdust does not come from cutting the wood but from the dust that is "trapped" in the sawblade's teeth and then released above the table top. When you think about it, this makes sense.  Phil Rasmussen, US Army-retired Mountain Woodworker www.mountainwoodworker.com pmrii@aol.com
  11. Dear Friends, As I get older I am not sure if I get wiser or not but one thing is is for sure, my eyesight is not as good as it once was, nor are my reflexes and coordination. Like many of you I have used push sticks but have now opted for safer means of cutting lumber on my table saw. Three things precipitated my move from push sticks to safe methods. First while cutting a board, I hit a knot and got a good portion of a 2x4 in my stomach. That left not only a nice black and blue bruise but also some pain. The second precipitant was a friend who also experienced kickback but in his case he also has a 2 inch scar where the push stick penetrated his stomach about 3 inches. Not the best thing to have happen. The final precipitant was one that none of us would expect in a thousand years. I was cutting some Styrofoam, you know that stuff that comes in sheets and is often used for insulation, the stuff that you cannot put a real sharp edge to, the stuff that you can crumble in your hands, yes that stuff, on my table saw. Not paying much attention to what was happening, toward the end of the cut a piece of the "stuff" broke off and became the subject of kickback. Well, like I said, I never would have thought it could or would happen but I guess it was the "perfect storm" for that piece of Styrofoam broke though one side of a hollow core door. Now those 1/8 inch sheets of luan are much harder than our skin. That was the last straw for my push sticks. Now I am using a safer approach. Get rid of your push sticks, especially those with nails or screws in them. Also at the same time be sure to wear eye and hearing protection, stand to the outside side of the saw blade and wear a thick leather apron. Phil Rasmussen, US Army - retired The Mountain Woodworker 123 Haywood Park Dr Hendersonville, NC 28791 828-890-8058 www.mountainwoodworker.com
  12. John sent out an email about Woodcraft's sale on the GRR-riper. Folks if you don't have one yet, don't waste another minute, go an order yours now. This is one of the best safety items that you can have in your workshop. You can use it on your table saw, band saw, router table, joiner, and probably other power tools in your shop. Aside from its great gripping capability it is very adjustable and can meet a lot of your safety needs. I would like point out another great push stick. This is one that you make. In the latest issue of American Woodworker on page 2 or 4 is a photo of the push stick. It is an over the fence stick. I made my own this past weekend and it is very stable. I ripped on 8" boards and 1/8" strips with it. The strips were up against the fence. If you decide to make one, move the handle forward some. Later on I will upload a photo and article on it describing how I made mine. It is easy to make and it can be made from scrapes. Phil Rasmussen, US Army - retiredThe Mountain Woodworker 123 Haywood Park Dr Hendersonville, NC 28791 828-890-8058 www.mountainwoodworker.com Revealing nature's secrets through art and craftsmanship.
  13. That is a great looking sander. I like the idea of the bed moving up/down instead of the sander component. Easier to make sure you are exactly parallel which I cannot adjust on my Jet 16-32. It drops down at the outside end. How are you attaching the "sandpaper"?  Phil
  14. My initial guess is that this is a bender to birng two wood strips into alignment and hold it there. I base this on two things. First is that there is the bottom mortis that could hold a strip. Then there is the top mortis that will rotate. Since there is a pin in the middle, I would assume that this would apply to the ends of the woods.
  15. I know that feeling of how you make something for one purpose only to have it used for another. Looks like there are some beautiful quilts. I had aclient who was a quiltmaker and wanted to sell them also. She wanted a display rack. After much discussion we opted out for a combination of quilt stand and newspaper hanging stand like what you find in libraries. I wish I had photos of it but I did not take any at the time. The hangers consisted of 3 rods in a triangular shape when views from the ends. Easy to make. The support was slanted so that you could get an idea of what the quilts might look like. When she was with a customer they would lift out the various quilts and then rehang them. For her larger quilts I made her something like what you find in the big box stores where electrical wire was stored. I did not use a motor but a nice plastic in a similar set up for those chain garage doors.  Just a couple of thoughts if your wife decides to open a store or take up part of the garage. LOL  Phil Rasmussen
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