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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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Everything posted by lew

  1. OK, I'm officially jealous! SQ said:
  2. Maybe super glue and a couple of screws. I have been thru several versions of this jig before finally getting one I like. Maybe a quick build just to see if it is going to solve the problem. If you find it works, then a more elaborate, permanent build. Charles Nicholls said:
  3. If you some Tightbond II or III, that would be best. If not, then super glue would be my next choice. Screws, from the back will also work- you don't want the heads of the screws on the front - they would cause unnecessary friction. Charles Nicholls said:
  4. Charles, No need to buy a new fence. I was just using that as an example because I was having difficulty describing what the thing looks like. It is very easy to make your own single point fence. It doesn't have to be elaborate or fancy. Here are 2 pix of mine: I made mine as tall as possible to be able to resaw up to about 6"- the max my saw could handle. If you are cutting pen blanks, the fence would not have to be nearly this tall. I split a 3/4" dowel to create the pivot point. That can be done with a triangular piece of wood glued onto the vertical portion of the fence. I just clamp it to the band saw table with a couple of C-clamps and adjust it with a hammer. I agree with other posts- the blade probably needs replaced because it is dull. I've seen videos on how to re-sharpen band saw blades but honestly, I think you'd be better off with a new one. Looks like these are about $10. at Sears. Hope this helps. Lew Charles Nicholls said:
  5. Lay the plate on the blocks, against the bolts. Mark each bolt location on the plate, transfer the mark to the correct location on the plate, drill over sized hole at the mark. galvanized washer/nuts.
  6. Not sure if this will help, but, could this be what is called drift? Almost all band saws, regardless of how well they are tuned up don't actually cut a line parallel to the fence- like a table saw blade and the rip fence. The cut usually "drifts" off to one side or the other from fence parallel. There are two ways (maybe more) to overcome this problem. The first is to determine the saws characteristic drift, through experimentation, and then set the fence parallel to the line to which the saw naturally drifts. I have never had too much luck with this method. The second is to make/purchase a single point fence similar to this The stock only touches the "fence" at a single point. This allows the operator to adjust the stock right or left to follow a predetermined line.This can easily be made from a dowel cut in half lengthwise and mounter on your current fence. Â Again, I'm not sure if this is exactly what you are experienceing. Hope it helps, however. Lew
  7. I "appropriated" one of my wife's old electric candle warmers. The kind where you inserted the entire "Yankee" candle- glass container and all- into the warmer. It melted the wax candle without a flame. Works great for warming finish. Just set the opened can inside the warmer. It will hold up to quart sized cans.
  8. You Got It!! Slow and easy! SQ said:
  9. Bob, I sent a thank you note to the "contact" email from General Finishes web page. Received a nice note back from Sheryl Monahan. Lew Bob Kloes said:
  10. Bob, Received my sample this afternoon and tried it on a previously unfinished handle. This stuff is great! 5 coats in less than 1 hour and could have probably done it in 15 minutes but I was afraid to touch the surface to see if it was wet or dry. THis will become my new go-to finish on the lathe! Â Thanks for giving them my name. Â Lew
  11. I know there are expert turners who will tell you that you will need a myriad of tools. For your first attempts, get yourself a heavy bowl scraper. Here is a link to an example:Â http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005160/4113/Extra-HeavyDuty-Scraper-1-Bowl.aspx. Because your bowl will already have its' shape, this type of tool will give you nice results. When buying lathe bowl tools, don't skimp. These tools need to be "beefy-er" than regular turning tools because they are usually used in a position that puts the cutting point quite a distance from the tool rest, compared to spindle turning. Lew SQ said: Â It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.
  12. Woods with tight grains. Some folks say use only wood from trees that produce edible products. Maple and walnut are two acceptable choice.Â
  13. Actually, this is a very common way to make a bowl. Using various woods and alternating woods during the glue up will create the most interesting patterns and designs. Check out Sam Shakouri's work in the gallery at http://www.macarthurwoodturners.org.au/ Tightbond II or III will work fine. I use II for the rolling pins. As for your lathe appears to have plenty of power to do this. Because you are starting with a lot of the material already removed, the lathe will not have to work as hard. Keep in mind, however, the larger the diameter of the bowl, the easier it will be to load down the lathe- especially when working at the outer edges. Sharp tools will help lessen this effect. Looking forward to seeing your finished stuff. Lew Â
  14. Air circulation and dehumidifier but avoid having the fans blow air directly at the wet surface.
  15. Milling the stock takes the most time and there is a lot of watching the glue dry time. The main blank is 2" x2" x 22". The laminations are 2" x 11" x 1/8". It takes 4 Maple and 8 walnut laminations for a regular rolling pin. Then it is a matter of cutting, gluing laminations and trimming the main blank- 4 times, turning and sanding. Actual hands on time is probably only a couple of hours. I received an email from John Morris and he said it would be OK to re-post the blog on making these. I am in the middle of a couple of computer rebuilds/repairs so it might be a couple of days until I can get it done. Thanks for the interest in these. Lew SQ said:
  16. Thanks, SQ! I had a blog on this posted here but it disappeared. I'll check with John (site owner) and see if it is OK to post it again. Lew. SQ said:
  17. Thanks Doug!! Doug Morgan said:
  18. +1 for what Gene said. I do, however, like John's idea for the hinges!
  19. Does licking your finger and pressing the caulk into place count? I'm terrible at this regardless of which way I do it. Â Watched a professional widow replacement technician do it and he pulled the gun along. It was a perfect bead. Â So I guess it's about half and half.
  20. Thanks, Mike!! Mike Mathieu said:
  21. These are gorgeous, Mike. When I saw the first one, my initial reaction was " how did he cut the slots?" Thought you may have used a dado blade but there was nor saw/glue line. Â Lew
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