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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Ace HoleInOne

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Everything posted by Ace HoleInOne

  1. Heinz 57 on makers of the bits...all 1/2 inch....only a few 1/4 for the trim router. Â -Ace-
  2. Niiiiice! love it!            -Ace-
  3. I know there are lot of ways to skin a cat. Just thought I'd ask... Â -Ace- Larry Jenkins said:
  4. Shouldn't denatured alcohol be mixed with the shellac to make a wash-coat?  -Ace- Larry Jenkins said:
  5. I wrote a little blog about Poplar.  Poplar  -Ace-  Â
  6. My little rubber contour sanding profiles, sometimes called Tadpoles. Â -Ace-
  7. Nice Bob...what is the wood for the case and drawer front? All the same? Bob Kloes said:
  8. I'll work for beer!   I agree, Bob is also a wealth of information on woodworking. Lots of ways to skin a cat and Bob knows most of them  -Ace-
  9. Is there a way to safe guard little fingers from pinching and closing on the fingers? I'm sure a "soft" close will help with the close. I'm thinking on the front corners, perhaps a riser block installed to allow room for fingers...just in case?  -Ace-
  10. Started cleaning the shop last night. Haven't been in all summer except for fooling around on the lathe a little. Have crud all over, even spiderwebs. Getting the woodworking itch, now that the kids are back in school and life isn't so hectic . Â -Ace-
  11. Aside from any special finishing technique. I would suspect the spray method was to get the poly to the wood, brush or spray, doesn't really matter. The brush was then used to level and even out the finish prior to it flowing out on it's own. Perhaps that explains the hurry method used. Now some finishes are formulated for spray only. However, let's think about this, if a brushing finish is loaded into a spray gun ( our case a spray can )and that finish is applied to the wood. You could certainly brush over it. The key would be spray heavy coats then brush it out. -Ace-
  12. Probably not. Starting light dark and going darker will more that likely "tone it out" and look all one color"ish" Guess it depends what you are trying to achieve. Or paint the dye on certain areas of grain, then blend in for that light to dark? Â -Ace-
  13. Justin....  First, it's all about the piece of wood you choose, the wood does all the work for you. Try to find a piece with tight intense figure.  Second, I sand the piece to 220 and began with blue water-based dye applied with a paper towel. After the first coat of blue dries. Sand off using 320 paper, leaving the blue dye that has soaked in (your goal is to remove only the surface color). I repeat about 2 more times, dye and sand, dye and sand.  Third, apply the yellow water-based dye sorta dry (let the dye have some "rest time" to pull into the paper towel) and buff in. Then sand back ever so softly with 320. The trick is not to sand to much. Leave some color on the wood.  Fourth, apply the orange water-based dye, sorta dry and buff in. Complete by buffing the piece with a clean paper towel, removing as much orange as you can.  Let the wood do the talking.  -Ace-  Justin Hughes said:
  14. Just a heads-up on porous woods. I recently found out to use General Finishes Enduro-Var as a grain filler under the Wood Turners Finish. Apply about 2 heavy coats and sand back, then finish off with the Wood Turners Finish.  Looking good John  -Ace-
  15. Hey Ron...just curious...was that the Varathane (spelling?) water-based in a spray can that cause you issues? Â -Ace-
  16. Yup no problem...I'll write something up. Right now I'm pressed for  -Ace-
  17.                                    General Finishes Wood Turners Finish – Over water-based dye and stain.                                                                    Curly Maple Wood                                      First, dye the wood yellow using a paper towel. Then applied some heat with a hair dryer to speed the dry. Sanded the yellow off with 320 paper and repeated 2 more times. This gets the dye down into the curl of the wood. Second, then apply the Black Cherry stain using toilet tissue directly over the yellow dye. Takes about 3 coats, then when dry, I buff with a paper towel. Should you experience any unevenness with the stain. I dampen the corner of the paper and go back over the surface to work it out. If necessary, get more stain on and wipe back to reactivate your stain.                    Third, apply the Wood Turners Finish directly to the wood with lathe speed set on low. I use toilet tissue under the piece to collect the finish and gently kiss the wood with the tissue to work the finish from left to right. With each application, use a fresh piece of toilet tissue. Fourth, after the 3rd application, I used 320 grit paper to de-nib (careful not to sand through) then wiped the wood clean of dust. Then applied 3 more coats and called it done.    Hint… I used a hair dryer between coats to accelerate the dry, don’t get too hot with the air, and switch between warm/cold air. (this step was not really necessary, because the finish dried fast on it own!) Fifth, I sanded the finish with 2000 grit Abralon pad, cleaned the surface than applied the wax and buffed using toilet tissue.                                                               Another piece of Curly Maple, playing with blue/yellow/orange water-based dye                                                                                                                                             Conclusion I found the product very easy to use. The more I used it, the better I became applying it, and actually found it was not necessary to sand or buff the finish.    Dries in minutes, even faster if you use the accelerator (a hair dryer   ) Was able to completely finish in less that 15 minutes.  General Finishes, I think found itself a real winner!  Next, I will spray the finish on the lathe, then test using it as a wiping finish for flat work, so I have read?????????  -Ace-
  18. Allen don't brush it.  At some point again you will have that spray gun in your hand again. Why not keep pushing through and get things worked out. Don't get disappointed, you can do it!  -Ace-
  19. You have to spray just wet enough before it will run. Takes lots of practice. For me, a raking light is key. If you can take a hanging shop light and hook it to the shop wall between shoulder and belt high where you spray. Then you will be better able to see how much finish is going down. Google a few automotive paint spray booths to see how they light their spray booths. Â .....ugh the runs!!!!! Â By spray the finish straight from the can without thinning as was suggested. The finish has more stick or hang time. Â -Ace-
  20. Very cool Mike thanks for showing! Â -Ace-
  21. I'm serious...the contrasting colors, the red of the building, old scruffy picnic table, the whole thing...just smacks you in the face....oh yeah nice use of the round-over bit on the face of the birds-eye piece. Â Must be all those art shows rubbing off on you....... Â -Ace-
  22. Geez Bob, in addition to the masterful work...those pic's are looking very professional with the lighting and everything! Â -Ace-
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