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Ace HoleInOne

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About Ace HoleInOne

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  • Birthday 07/27/1959

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  1. Heinz 57 on makers of the bits...all 1/2 inch....only a few 1/4 for the trim router. Â -Ace-
  2. Niiiiice! love it!            -Ace-
  3. I know there are lot of ways to skin a cat. Just thought I'd ask... Â -Ace- Larry Jenkins said:
  4. Shouldn't denatured alcohol be mixed with the shellac to make a wash-coat?  -Ace- Larry Jenkins said:
  5. I wrote a little blog about Poplar.  Poplar  -Ace-  Â
  6. My little rubber contour sanding profiles, sometimes called Tadpoles. Â -Ace-
  7. Nice Bob...what is the wood for the case and drawer front? All the same? Bob Kloes said:
  8. I'll work for beer!   I agree, Bob is also a wealth of information on woodworking. Lots of ways to skin a cat and Bob knows most of them  -Ace-
  9. Is there a way to safe guard little fingers from pinching and closing on the fingers? I'm sure a "soft" close will help with the close. I'm thinking on the front corners, perhaps a riser block installed to allow room for fingers...just in case?  -Ace-
  10. Started cleaning the shop last night. Haven't been in all summer except for fooling around on the lathe a little. Have crud all over, even spiderwebs. Getting the woodworking itch, now that the kids are back in school and life isn't so hectic . Â -Ace-
  11. Aside from any special finishing technique. I would suspect the spray method was to get the poly to the wood, brush or spray, doesn't really matter. The brush was then used to level and even out the finish prior to it flowing out on it's own. Perhaps that explains the hurry method used. Now some finishes are formulated for spray only. However, let's think about this, if a brushing finish is loaded into a spray gun ( our case a spray can )and that finish is applied to the wood. You could certainly brush over it. The key would be spray heavy coats then brush it out. -Ace-
  12. Probably not. Starting light dark and going darker will more that likely "tone it out" and look all one color"ish" Guess it depends what you are trying to achieve. Or paint the dye on certain areas of grain, then blend in for that light to dark? Â -Ace-
  13. Justin....  First, it's all about the piece of wood you choose, the wood does all the work for you. Try to find a piece with tight intense figure.  Second, I sand the piece to 220 and began with blue water-based dye applied with a paper towel. After the first coat of blue dries. Sand off using 320 paper, leaving the blue dye that has soaked in (your goal is to remove only the surface color). I repeat about 2 more times, dye and sand, dye and sand.  Third, apply the yellow water-based dye sorta dry (let the dye have some "rest time" to pull into the paper towel) and buff in. Then sand back ever so softly with 320. The trick is not to sand to much. Leave some color on the wood.  Fourth, apply the orange water-based dye, sorta dry and buff in. Complete by buffing the piece with a clean paper towel, removing as much orange as you can.  Let the wood do the talking.  -Ace-  Justin Hughes said:

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