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tool613

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Everything posted by tool613

  1. Some of the handles for the Machines I am working on are missing or worn out. I see this a lot on the older machines that have been worked hard that i bring home to restore. Since I am doing a full restore I needed a way to fix the handles on the cranks/locks or what ever had turn handles. Here is what I came up with before I got my wadkin Pattern lathe. I thought that it would help those with out a lathe. First I take a bolt that will tap into the crank and put it in the drill press. I use a file and round the head while it spins. I then drill a hole through a piece of wood with a counter bore for the new head.I leave the bolt head a little high in the wood. i am using rose wood for this.   With the hole and the length cut,I draw a circle around the wood to the rough size. I ruff it out on the band saw. I now put the wood back on the bolt and add nuts to cover the threads, this gives me protection for the threads in the drill chuck.   Now remember I left the bolt head high . This is so I can crank the table up tight to the handle to give it more support as I file the shape of the handle I want and to keep it nice and round.   I shape the handle as much as I can and then lower the table to do the end with the bolt head. you can see the bolt head hole left in the mdf table. I then shape the bottom with a bastard mill file and sand to a shine     all I do now is tap the crank and JB/locktite weld the threads in to the taped hole so the wood spins or is tight. Most handles are a press fit in the crank so i just tap it to the size bolt that i used. in most cases its a 7/16" bolt,but you get the idea.       
  2. "Back From The Archives" The Wadkin R family of machines were designed in the 1920's and built up until the mid 50's they were the first generation of machines made in England to be offered Line belt or motor drive. Most of the time you will see that the motors are just after thoughts. I have been on the look out for a few of these rare machines. I have an RS lathe and RD jointer but the Wadkin RM is a hard one to find. When you talk as much as I do about Wadkin, people start to contact you and give you the heads up on where machines can be had. It is in this cast that the RM makes it way to me. A friend and Wadkin lover (RD and RK owner) got this before the scrap man. He was going to keep it but called me up and said it needs to be in the Wadkin dream shop. I am never to sell it and he said he get's to try it out when I Jackifie it. I am beside myself. The Wadkin RM, 3200lbs of the best British Arn. The RM came with a manual it is hand written. My friend made a video of it for me here it is.
  3. I moved the 30 " Wadkin band saw to the mill shop today. I have had this saw in the bench shop for a year now. Today I put the table on and ran some wood through it. Its an old blade 6 point so it not cutting great I will order a new 16.5 foot 3 point. This is a DMD(direct motor drive) saw with a blade SFPM(surface feet per minite) of 6476. The high speed saws are a little louder too. The wadkin has solid steel pulleys and so it takes some time to come of to speed. look at the dime at the very begining and it does shack just a bit. Enjoy I did you sometimes wounder if theses machine will ever be done. here is a link to the rebuild for the answers to the machine specs. http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=86300&hilit jack English machine
  4. Lance Nothing wrong with hand tools. I like my hand tools too. But the big machines take the main work so my efforts are saved for the finale finish with hand tools. So for me its not a hand tool VS machine. A great place to start is with the VFD.  If you find a machine that is 240 volts 3 phase and no more  than 3 HP than you will find that the VFD is the cheepest way to go. the cost to covert this type of machine is $185.  I have picked up 14" RAS for $143 because it was 3 phase and just added a VFD. so for less than $350 i have a $7000 saw you wire the machine to the VFD(3 wires) and the VFD to a plug(3 wires) Done. You can go further and wire in control stations, speed controls reverse switch ,E stops and on and on and on. but you do not have to. The VFD give you machine contol that if you wish the switchs in the machine to control you  can be used them  just like it was pulged in to a 3 phase plug. here is what you need for a VFD  jack English machines  Lance The Dude Granum said:
  5. Lance you have to learn to walk befor you can run my pops used to say. 3 Phase motors are less $ to run, less $ to buy.  Three phase electiricty comes in either 3 wire or 4 wire power configurations 3 hot wires and no nuetral or 3 hot wires and a nuetral respectively. Each hot leg is 120 degrees out of phase with each other. Basically when looking at motors here are the advantages of 3 phase motors: They are more efficient than single phase motors They last longer and run smoother. 3 phase motors are smaller per unit of horsepower or Kilowatt than a single phase motor. The disadvantage of 3 phase motors is that they cant be used at most residential places because typical homes use single phase electricity. A phase converter can be used to convert single phase to 3 phase. There are static as well as rotary converters, and variable frequency drives(VFD). All these converters do a farily good job of converting single phase to 3 phase. The greatest part about getting three phase in the shop is cheep industral tools can be had for next to nothing. I just finished a system for my shop out of used industrial equipment and now have 208/240/and 600volt three phase off my residential single phase power VFDs are so easy to wire a monkey could do it. Here is a 1.5 hp 3phase Wadkin lathe  running off a VFD .
  6. Lance today there are mores ways to run "tree faze" off house hold then there ever was.  In my shop I am running 600volt 3 phase machine of household. way past the voltage thing. jack English machines
  7. sorry boys i am out there they say 135lbs motor mount. jesssssssssss. This Wadkin RM came with the special order pattern makers in feed table. What's a Pattern makers table? When making wood pattern for the foundry sand cast forms, the patterns had to have draft. What's draft? Draft is a small taper in the pattern forms so that it would release from the sand. So for a joiner to be a Pattern makers the front table has to tip side to side. The table will no longer be coplaner and the wood will be removed more on one side than the other. The under side of the table has a large pivot and a thread crank. The edge on the table is milled so that when it is lowered it will go back to co planer when the two machined surfaces meet. This thread crank sets in the table The first time I have ever seen this in a Wadkin piece. There is nickel weld in some of the cast to fill in a void in the sand cast. A war machine from 1941 and to wasteful to replace the casting is my guess. Next is the rise and fall ways. you can see the planed surfaces that mate the tables. Pined to the table When theses two surfaces meet the table is co-planer. A gauge to read draft. So fine is the machining in this table that even the gauge is flush with the front edge so as not to upset rabbiting. Don't let the short table foul you this is a finely tuned machine. All the ways have been scraped in. in machine building terms that is the hand tool marks of a craftsman fitting the parts, The other half of the rise and fall and the plate for moving the table in and away from the cutter block for molding. there are no gib plates to adjust for ware and fit to the side walls, just a hand scraped in fit. By the looks of the ways this 70 year old machine appears not to need them.could just be the size on the ways. The out feed table should be a breeze. jack English machines
  8. Ok looks like I got the drive side all work out as far as mechanical goes. I still need to find a cheep 600 volts VFD for speed control but as it stands I have the stock feed rates of 20/30/46 FPM. I got the 145 frame motor mounted on an old foot mount I had in the rat hole using a peace of 3/8 steel plate. So I have belt adjustment and the shaft height I needed to work with the guards. works just great with the wadkin motor mount.  Now I just have to get this mount Jackified:) And as you will notice my shoes are just worded in. I love old shoes. boy handle are the pits. 1 as is, 2 sponged,(what does that mean Larry?) 3 jackified. off with the tables jack English machines
  9. tool613

    1922 Oliver Model 133 6 inch jointer

    Myself I would run that head condition depending. It is only 6" long and the clam caps are smaller but the bolts are the same size. that is if you are keeping it as a sometimes user and not for resale. I like my little 6" bursgreen I slide it over to where I need it and I converted it to 110Volt from 550 volts so I could do it(i have more 110 volt plugs around the shop). In short the little joiners made by the big boys are really just little vertion of the real thing. jack English machines
  10.  i did find a Brooks feed motor for $30.  working the bed and what to most people looks bad just needs a shave. For old rusted tables I like to give them a shave.I buy my straight raisers in boxes of 100. took about an hour. i pulled the bed rollers and checked the bearing. they were gone and because they are not to easily serviced I replaced them with rubber sealed SKF. $100. the serrated infeed and smooth outfeed and bed rollers went to a metal lathe to bring them back in spec. I know the guy so $30 but a proshop should only charge an hours labor. the blocks that hold the cutter head and rollers/ pressure bars are all cleaned up and the plain bearings for the rollers were in great shape. Steel in cast "ARN" with oil channels cut in the bearing like in Babbitt. there is a hole left from the hold downs spring rod that leaves a hole for the bearings oil and the ways are cut from there. should I and a piece of felt? bearing were gone on the motor and new sealed SKF $30 bearing were instaled. it look like a rewind had be done. If you have never experienced how smooth a 3 phase motors run watch the video. jack English machines
  11. Well Larry I do not think they could have picked a better person as Forum Host. Jack English machines
  12. Sam cleaning rust is part of the job of any restoration. wire wheels and buffing wheel in a grinder. Lots of HP helps. I use T9 for the bare metal and topcaot a spray for cast tops.wax works good if you have the time. The motor I got for the Wadkin RM is Not a Wadkin Motor. I needed a footed motor to drive the head and This 3 phase 5 HP baby should do a fine job of it. It is most likely off an old band saw based on the bearings . It's got open deep grooved ball bearing set in the bells. One great features to these type motors is the grease bled at the bottom so you can't over grease and the old grease stays out of the motor winding. This motor should last forever for what I am using it for. They say it is wise to change the bearing when you got things apart ,but I have had good luck determining if bearing are good or not by running and looking in side. So far I have only been off once. I must have saved $2000 so far in the rebuild once I started checking the bearing in stead of just changing them because they were old. Most if not all the bearing I am talking about were open . I have never found good old sealed bearing. the motor after a test run on power. theses bearing looked a sound great and pressure on the shaft had no play. I cleaned the old grease out that was in general good looking . It was not hard or soapafied. The fan end bell of the motor had a neat mesh grill to keep shaving out of the motor. It was neat but not up to what I wanted and thought it looked not all that great. It got filed away under G. I made my own at the drill press with some scrap sheet stock.more on that later. So really all and all the rebuilding of this Motor was just maintenance and was ready to go to work.  For purely atheistic reasons I paint things at this point and like to add what i call an artistic licence. My restoration are what I think they should be and so I indulge myself. I find Machinery in it original state boring and drab and like to hot rod some things.If you like original look away:) The motor finished jack English machines  
  13. sorry boys  i have been busy with work. Is Larry in charge here Worked on the fence  . I just love the pattern work on the wadkin's. I strong guy will let a little gas out lifting it, but she moves like silk with that rack and pinion. there are two guards on a modern jointer. There is the stander pork chop and what I will call the back guard that covers the head when the fence is move over the table. Most old jointer don,t have the main and very little have a back guard.The wakin RM never had the back guard and so I made one. A safety guard has to do 3 things to be of any use. 1 The most important is protect the operator from the cutter head. 2 be easy to adjust and not be in the way of the machines function as it was designed to preform. 3 be easy to remove for assess to the cutter head. it can than look good if you want . i have 26" od head to cover and any given time and i wanted to be able to adjust while the machine is running. Most back guards are attached to the fence and so I designed mine to do the same. I simply welded a simple rod and bracket that screwed in taped holes to the fence base for my guard to attach. Because the table slide in and out to open the cutter block for moulding my guard needed this adjustment as-well. I made it from aluminum and copper to keep it light but strong. adjustment for sliding in and out fully extended to 26" i got a few other things done on it like the motors and the pattern makers table. i post those latter what do you think so far boys? jack English machines
  14. Thanks Larry jack English machines
  15. Took the Presures Bars out of The Wadkin RM . The infeed side was worn in the middle as is always the case. I want to get this thing tuned in when I get it all painted . I like to do the machinery side of thing first. I find it easy to work the with the small parts and after all the mechanical is repaired i jump in and jackifie. the chip breaker and pressures bars on ether side of the Wadkin RM head starting with the chip breaker its was out about 3/32" made a simple sled for the disk sander milled chip breaker  here is a Video If you don't have a disk sander I bet it on your list now:) jack English machines   Â
  16. Â video httphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&list=UUI6jpIs2zjN9DmVvK2ZAWXA&v=zjP-5xQCHD8://
  17. Got the head cleaned up and ready to store until I am ready to work the other parts. I wanted to clean the rust and look at the bearing any way. Here are some pics of the workings of the Wadkin plate/clam head Here you can see that the cutter block is tapered on the side the jointer knives plates/clam go on. The Wadkin head has keyed jacking/knife adjustment screws and you don't need the plates to hold the knives from slipping like the Oliver head. The stud hole is through the head and the stud bottom on a small rim on the top edge. A set of Wadkin spent knives(no life left) with the key slot at the back on the blade. Only half of the knives are useful in this design. The blades are about 1 1/2" wide when new. You are still able to get these from Wadkin. I have found regular knives placed in front of the key screw. this is very dangerous with this type head. You have a 12" section for moulding knives in the jointer head and it does not upset the straight knives. The hard wood side of the head is thinner than the softwood side of the head by about 5/8" this is what skews the knife. Hope you enjoyed the view of the Wadkin Plate type head. jack English machines
  18. tool613

    More Walker Turner Progress

    OK John your hooked. welcome to the asylum looking good. jack English machines
  19. Happy New Year, boys hope you got what you want from Santa. With my time off for the holidays I thought I would pull the head out of the Wadkin RM and work on the cutter block. There was a stud and plate bolt missing in the head, and I did not like the looks of the others. The thing that got me the most was I needed a 48"cheater pipe to brake the nuts free of the heads, so they were way to tight. There is an old saying about molding head knife bolts, if you turn the nut over and it wont thread back on the threads are stretched. Most are that way and so here is were I need help. The forged steel plate type cutter-block is really a great head with its skewed knifes and is also able to take moulding knifes. I did get the tool(spanner wrench) for the head bolts that has a short handle. So I would think 60 to 100 lbs. of torque is all that is needed on the nuts. Anyone care to comment? Question, is there a source for the studs and nuts, and what is the grade of metal/thread etc.? The ones in there now appear to be mild steel. The plates are tapered, and so the studs lengths are long on one side and get shorter as you go across. Any old Wadkin Ex-Staff around here that can enlighten me on how the head was balanced? I hope this will be a discussion on the old plate type cutter-block, and do not want it to turn into the safety of these old heads. I restore old Wadkin kit and use it . Some pics here of the block with the missing bolt as I got the machine. The spanner wrench. Head removal. Nice bearings on this one 2 RM 12 self aligning double rowed brass cage on the drive side, with a 2308 SKF to the out board side. Hand scraped bearing retainer cap.
  20. I thought I read they were teamed up with Crescent. Looks good. Can you tell me where all the weight is? 2900 lbs has got to be the heavest saw I have seen that size. my Wadkin's got 3/4" casting and steel guards and is still 800lbs short of that tonnage. No pin strips? jack English machines
  21. Arthur, Can you cast one in bronze for me? I would love that, just tell me what you need. Opened the head this weekend and had to use a 4 foot pipe on the nuts. The PO was an idiot. One of the ways to tell if threads are stretched is to turn the nut over and see if it threads back on. I tried it and it does not thread on and binds ups. So I am going to change them all. I do not want bad bolts on this 6" head. I'm looking for a source of flat knife head bolts in the east. or any source. I will try Wadkin, you never know. I would a least like to know what the metal is.
  22. Arthur, The red paint is something . I will make it pop when I jackife this baby. Here are some more pics that I think you will find interesting. John, a grown man can not pick this motor up and I don't care how big you are.That's a tall boy can of beer for scale. I found this Wadkin motor with Wadkin pulley's the right size for the head on the machine. This never happens. And the good part is it was free, so I have the head motor. I've also got the electrics out of Dave's RM so I have a starter for a 15hp motor, the PO's rig was a joke. The head is missing a bolt for the clamshell and some of the bolts don't look Wadkin. This a Wadkin bolt. These are not but, they're there for balance. Just so you can get a sense of the size of the jointer I put a tall boy beer can on the table. Now Arthur may be the only one that will appreciate these next pics. The rack pinon handle is different from my older 16" RD's. Its ARN with more webs. It could be used as a dating tool. So I would think this machine was made after WW II, when Britain had many aluminum foundries for the war effort. The Wadkin head tool and the canting table. Jointer table crank handle. Dirty papers. (manual) Notice the 25 Cycles?
  23. John, this thing is big. It takes up about the space of 2 10" cabinet saws. A pump cart can move this so that's the best mobil base for it. For moving it from location to location you need the services of a rigger. (that's the name of the pros that do this type of work). You can do it your self like I did but I have a 7 ton trailer with drop axles with hydraulic dump, and drop ramps. Arthur has moved some crazy stuff and is a real pro. He's the one to tell you what it takes to move tonnage. In most case you don't need much, you can move a lot on pipe. Maybe Arthur will tell you all about a the 30,000 lb mill he moved this summer. jack

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