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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About tool613

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  1. Hi There

    Is is possible to share your RM manual.  I am busy doing up a Wadkin RM 104 26"

    Thanks Kevin

  2. I moved the 30 " Wadkin band saw to the mill shop today. I have had this saw in the bench shop for a year now. Today I put the table on and ran some wood through it. Its an old blade 6 point so it not cutting great I will order a new 16.5 foot 3 point. This is a DMD(direct motor drive) saw with a blade SFPM(surface feet per minite) of 6476. The high speed saws are a little louder too. The wadkin has solid steel pulleys and so it takes some time to come of to speed. look at the dime at the very begining and it does shack just a bit. Enjoy I did you sometimes wounder if theses machine will ever be done. here is a link to the rebuild for the answers to the machine specs. http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=86300&hilit jack English machine
  3. Lance Nothing wrong with hand tools. I like my hand tools too. But the big machines take the main work so my efforts are saved for the finale finish with hand tools. So for me its not a hand tool VS machine. A great place to start is with the VFD.  If you find a machine that is 240 volts 3 phase and no more  than 3 HP than you will find that the VFD is the cheepest way to go. the cost to covert this type of machine is $185.  I have picked up 14" RAS for $143 because it was 3 phase and just added a VFD. so for less than $350 i have a $7000 saw you wire the machine to the VFD(3 wires) and the VFD to a plug(3 wires) Done. You can go further and wire in control stations, speed controls reverse switch ,E stops and on and on and on. but you do not have to. The VFD give you machine contol that if you wish the switchs in the machine to control you  can be used them  just like it was pulged in to a 3 phase plug. here is what you need for a VFD  jack English machines  Lance The Dude Granum said:
  4. Lance you have to learn to walk befor you can run my pops used to say. 3 Phase motors are less $ to run, less $ to buy.  Three phase electiricty comes in either 3 wire or 4 wire power configurations 3 hot wires and no nuetral or 3 hot wires and a nuetral respectively. Each hot leg is 120 degrees out of phase with each other. Basically when looking at motors here are the advantages of 3 phase motors: They are more efficient than single phase motors They last longer and run smoother. 3 phase motors are smaller per unit of horsepower or Kilowatt than a single phase motor. The disadvantage of 3 phase motors is that they cant be used at most residential places because typical homes use single phase electricity. A phase converter can be used to convert single phase to 3 phase. There are static as well as rotary converters, and variable frequency drives(VFD). All these converters do a farily good job of converting single phase to 3 phase. The greatest part about getting three phase in the shop is cheep industral tools can be had for next to nothing. I just finished a system for my shop out of used industrial equipment and now have 208/240/and 600volt three phase off my residential single phase power VFDs are so easy to wire a monkey could do it. Here is a 1.5 hp 3phase Wadkin lathe  running off a VFD .
  5. Lance today there are mores ways to run "tree faze" off house hold then there ever was.  In my shop I am running 600volt 3 phase machine of household. way past the voltage thing. jack English machines
  6. sorry boys i am out there they say 135lbs motor mount. jesssssssssss. This Wadkin RM came with the special order pattern makers in feed table. What's a Pattern makers table? When making wood pattern for the foundry sand cast forms, the patterns had to have draft. What's draft? Draft is a small taper in the pattern forms so that it would release from the sand. So for a joiner to be a Pattern makers the front table has to tip side to side. The table will no longer be coplaner and the wood will be removed more on one side than the other. The under side of the table has a large pivot and a thread crank. The edge on the table is milled so that when it is lowered it will go back to co planer when the two machined surfaces meet. This thread crank sets in the table The first time I have ever seen this in a Wadkin piece. There is nickel weld in some of the cast to fill in a void in the sand cast. A war machine from 1941 and to wasteful to replace the casting is my guess. Next is the rise and fall ways. you can see the planed surfaces that mate the tables. Pined to the table When theses two surfaces meet the table is co-planer. A gauge to read draft. So fine is the machining in this table that even the gauge is flush with the front edge so as not to upset rabbiting. Don't let the short table foul you this is a finely tuned machine. All the ways have been scraped in. in machine building terms that is the hand tool marks of a craftsman fitting the parts, The other half of the rise and fall and the plate for moving the table in and away from the cutter block for molding. there are no gib plates to adjust for ware and fit to the side walls, just a hand scraped in fit. By the looks of the ways this 70 year old machine appears not to need them.could just be the size on the ways. The out feed table should be a breeze. jack English machines
  7. Ok looks like I got the drive side all work out as far as mechanical goes. I still need to find a cheep 600 volts VFD for speed control but as it stands I have the stock feed rates of 20/30/46 FPM. I got the 145 frame motor mounted on an old foot mount I had in the rat hole using a peace of 3/8 steel plate. So I have belt adjustment and the shaft height I needed to work with the guards. works just great with the wadkin motor mount.  Now I just have to get this mount Jackified:) And as you will notice my shoes are just worded in. I love old shoes. boy handle are the pits. 1 as is, 2 sponged,(what does that mean Larry?) 3 jackified. off with the tables jack English machines
  8. Myself I would run that head condition depending. It is only 6" long and the clam caps are smaller but the bolts are the same size. that is if you are keeping it as a sometimes user and not for resale. I like my little 6" bursgreen I slide it over to where I need it and I converted it to 110Volt from 550 volts so I could do it(i have more 110 volt plugs around the shop). In short the little joiners made by the big boys are really just little vertion of the real thing. jack English machines
  9.  i did find a Brooks feed motor for $30.  working the bed and what to most people looks bad just needs a shave. For old rusted tables I like to give them a shave.I buy my straight raisers in boxes of 100. took about an hour. i pulled the bed rollers and checked the bearing. they were gone and because they are not to easily serviced I replaced them with rubber sealed SKF. $100. the serrated infeed and smooth outfeed and bed rollers went to a metal lathe to bring them back in spec. I know the guy so $30 but a proshop should only charge an hours labor. the blocks that hold the cutter head and rollers/ pressure bars are all cleaned up and the plain bearings for the rollers were in great shape. Steel in cast "ARN" with oil channels cut in the bearing like in Babbitt. there is a hole left from the hold downs spring rod that leaves a hole for the bearings oil and the ways are cut from there. should I and a piece of felt? bearing were gone on the motor and new sealed SKF $30 bearing were instaled. it look like a rewind had be done. If you have never experienced how smooth a 3 phase motors run watch the video. jack English machines
  10. Well Larry I do not think they could have picked a better person as Forum Host. Jack English machines
  11. Sam cleaning rust is part of the job of any restoration. wire wheels and buffing wheel in a grinder. Lots of HP helps. I use T9 for the bare metal and topcaot a spray for cast tops.wax works good if you have the time. The motor I got for the Wadkin RM is Not a Wadkin Motor. I needed a footed motor to drive the head and This 3 phase 5 HP baby should do a fine job of it. It is most likely off an old band saw based on the bearings . It's got open deep grooved ball bearing set in the bells. One great features to these type motors is the grease bled at the bottom so you can't over grease and the old grease stays out of the motor winding. This motor should last forever for what I am using it for. They say it is wise to change the bearing when you got things apart ,but I have had good luck determining if bearing are good or not by running and looking in side. So far I have only been off once. I must have saved $2000 so far in the rebuild once I started checking the bearing in stead of just changing them because they were old. Most if not all the bearing I am talking about were open . I have never found good old sealed bearing. the motor after a test run on power. theses bearing looked a sound great and pressure on the shaft had no play. I cleaned the old grease out that was in general good looking . It was not hard or soapafied. The fan end bell of the motor had a neat mesh grill to keep shaving out of the motor. It was neat but not up to what I wanted and thought it looked not all that great. It got filed away under G. I made my own at the drill press with some scrap sheet stock.more on that later. So really all and all the rebuilding of this Motor was just maintenance and was ready to go to work.  For purely atheistic reasons I paint things at this point and like to add what i call an artistic licence. My restoration are what I think they should be and so I indulge myself. I find Machinery in it original state boring and drab and like to hot rod some things.If you like original look away:) The motor finished jack English machines  
  12. sorry boys  i have been busy with work. Is Larry in charge here Worked on the fence  . I just love the pattern work on the wadkin's. I strong guy will let a little gas out lifting it, but she moves like silk with that rack and pinion. there are two guards on a modern jointer. There is the stander pork chop and what I will call the back guard that covers the head when the fence is move over the table. Most old jointer don,t have the main and very little have a back guard.The wakin RM never had the back guard and so I made one. A safety guard has to do 3 things to be of any use. 1 The most important is protect the operator from the cutter head. 2 be easy to adjust and not be in the way of the machines function as it was designed to preform. 3 be easy to remove for assess to the cutter head. it can than look good if you want . i have 26" od head to cover and any given time and i wanted to be able to adjust while the machine is running. Most back guards are attached to the fence and so I designed mine to do the same. I simply welded a simple rod and bracket that screwed in taped holes to the fence base for my guard to attach. Because the table slide in and out to open the cutter block for moulding my guard needed this adjustment as-well. I made it from aluminum and copper to keep it light but strong. adjustment for sliding in and out fully extended to 26" i got a few other things done on it like the motors and the pattern makers table. i post those latter what do you think so far boys? jack English machines
  13. Â video httphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&list=UUI6jpIs2zjN9DmVvK2ZAWXA&v=zjP-5xQCHD8://
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