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Spence Bloom

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Everything posted by Spence Bloom

  1. Darndest thing! I'm in central time zone...email reminder about the raffle came to my email around noon... I saw it around 3:30pm and went to the site to participate in the raffle. What I got at the raffle site was: " As the raffle drawing is nearly here, online sales are now closed." IMHO, they should have said "This online raffle has closed early." Nothing else can explain it. I'm glad the goal was already reached.
  2. Yes, Charles, that could easily be routed with a pattern, 1-2 layers at a time...then the layers glued up. Then osc. spindle sander for the compartments. Then add the bottom and sand the outside. I vote for pattern routing as the way to go for easiest sanding of the compartments.
  3. I thought of drum sanding on the drill press as a reaction to your proposal to hog out the waste with drilling and chiseling from a solid glued-up block. A spindle sander or oscillating spindle sander makes more sense for the methods I described. The total height for internal sanding the projects in the pics looks to be 3/4" x 4 = 3" plus two thin veneers @ 1/16" or so each, for a total of 3 1/8".
  4. Thanks for posting the pic...I need to make one of those for myself! Rather than hogging out the spaces, I'd approach this as if it were a band saw box. I'd glue up the blank, then slice in at one corner, cut out the spaces, and clamp to reglue the cuts between spaces. I'd work out the cutting pathway on paper first. Alternatively, print multiples of the pattern and use the scroll saw to make the cutouts in each layer. (Pre-glue a thin layer to a thick layer and cut them as one.) If within the height limits of the scroll saw, I'd pre-glue 2 thick layers and cut as one. After all layers are cut out, I'd glue up the layers. With either method, I would then use sanding drums on the drill press to do the internal sanding. With either method, I'd glue the bottom on last and then sand the outside.
  5. Hey! I am thrilled to be chosen as winner. Sometimes making up answers that make seem to make sense works! I based the answers on one thing that I knew: that moisture makes wood swell. Thank you very much... I look forward to receiving Woodcraft Magazine.
  6. A indicates the wood has consistent moisture content throughout B indicates the wood was wetter on the inside, as if 'green'...the wetter part swells relative to the drier part and becomes convex. It was in relative balance before cutting. C indicates the board was wetter on the outsides, as if a dried board were stored in a humid room. It was in relative balance before cutting, D indicates the board was wetter on the left side, as if the left side sat on a damp surface. Again, the damper side swells and becomes convex. It looks like the slice taken from the right might have been as damp and kept it in balance until it was sliced off, making the current right side relatively dry compared to the left.
  7. Scott, Of course the Hawk can be used to cut fretwork, but removable blade holders, like Hawk and Hegner and some others, require more steps to change blades and are prone to require replacing the lower holder into its correct position should a blade slip out during cutting. I call that "not conducive" to fretwork... maybe I should say it is "less conducive" than saws with blade holders that don't detach. I don't really have an understanding why any machine has detachable blade holders. IMHO that factor is less relevant when cutting intarsia or segmentation or general scrolling for toys and things where the outline is all that is being cut. I've been using a Hawk for a couple of years and I'm still not able to get the efficient flow of motion I had when fretcutting with the DeWalt (or a Black&Decker before that). Spence
  8. Mike,  Thanks for the welcome... one thing that motivates me to use the scroll saw is the huge number of patterns available for a wide range of projects. The "Cat or Mouse" project is cute and that category of cutting (compound cutting) produces some nice things.  One great resource for free project patterns is Steve Good's blogsite... google it and find the catalog... it is awsome. Steve also has video tutorials on techniques and it should motivate you even more. Your scroll saw is supposed to create sawdust, not just collect sawdust!  Spence  Mike Dillen said:
  9. Thanks for the welcome, Ron. I appreciate it. Ron Dudelston said:
  10. John Morris,  Yes, in the end the DeWalt has some features that I miss on the other two... but none of the scroll saws I've used have satisfactory blade holders. I think the DeWalt is overpriced for what you get. The Hegner and RBI are just not conducive to fret work... and they are waaaaay overpriced for what you get (although the 26" capacity of the RBI is huge and is worth something... the Hegner has zero to justify its high price, IMHO.) (further commentary belongs in some other discussion area)  I posted some pics of some of my more recent projects.  Spence  John Morris said:
  11. Thanks for the welcome, John. I visited your website and I was impressed with the quality furniture you make. I've posted some pics of things I've made recently... all scroll saw works.  Spence  John Moody said:
  12. Allen,  I visited your website... you make some very nice cutting boards/trivets and I like the practicality of the "knock-down rocking chair".   Most of what I make is for gifts and donations for fundraisers... I intend to make some of the geometric patterned cutting boards this year... and I have 10 grandkids so I'm interested in a reference to find the rocking chair pattern.  Allen Worsham said:
  13. My name is Spence. I am a general dentist by day and I make sawdust as a hobby. I began about 8 yrs ago. My first project was a cradle for my first grandchild and, even though cradles aren't large, it convinced me that I need to focus on smaller projects. So I make things less than an arm's lenth in size. I have a small shop and benchtop tools: band saw, table saw, drill press, router table, scroll saw, and assorted sanders, flex-shaft tools, etc.  Since my band saw is too small to make band saw boxes, I began using the scroll saw as my main tool. I used a Black & Decker for a few years, then tried a Delta but it was defective and the store didn't have a replacement so I traded up to a DeWalt. I acquired a Hegner but didn't care for it at all, and I now use an RBI Hawk but I don't care for it much, either. One day soon I'll probably go back to the DeWalt... if I could, I'd design a better blade holding system for it. After many years of scrolling I got a little bored with "flat" projects but I'm not interested in intarsia... I've been into more 3D things lately. I made some shells and a seahorse. Both of those begin with the scroll saw and then involve a lot of power carving to shape them. The results are very different from what is being shown in the scrolling magazines. I belong to several forums as I enjoy seeing what others are doing in their shops and I'm always looking for ideas and tips. I couldn't enjoy this hobby as I do without the generosity of the many people who have shared their knowledge on the net. I hope I can make a contribution here.  Spence
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