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John Morris

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Everything posted by John Morris

  1. I've always said 74, we are an active small community of woodworkers, with a big heart. We may not have the following that the bigger forums have, but what we do have are wonderful folks like you stated. And truly, zero drama! Unless you count @Fred W. Hargis Jr and his lovely wife almost getting wiped off the face of the earth by a tornado a few weeks ago, now that was drama!
  2. Your free time has to be absolutely valuable, and you choose to spend a little bit of it here in our community, thanks for that 74.
  3. Awesome books, I purchased the Stick Chair Book, and love it! Along with some patterns. Also the Anarchist Tool Chest, now they are free to download, you can't beat that! But I do love books, specially these indy books folks like Chris and Mortise and Tenon Magazine are producing, their physical books are high quality bound with high quality paper. The downloads are a wonderful contribution to our woodworking community, thanks again Dan!
  4. Good Monday morning! Good Monday morning Patriot Woodworkers! What did you get done over the weekend, and what have you planned for the week ahead! Inquiring minds want to know. Please tell us what's happening in your shops, your life, and any events going on with you. Thank you for being here folks! Welcome new members To view our newest members and welcome them to our digs, please see our Members Page, you can "Sort" by join date and click on their names and be taken to their profile page where you can leave a message of welcome. Thank you for making our newest folks feel welcome. The Patriot Woodworker Glossary I have started to move our wiki project to our community here, the Glossary is the first to be migrated. Feel free to add your own definitions in our Glossary, please read the rules at the top of each Glossary for adding your own content and have fun editing! To access the glossary, a menu item named "Wiki" has been installed in the navigation buttons, click on it, and click on Glossary. For now here is the link. https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/glossary/ Featured Topic @Larry Buskirk found a very interesting piece of ARN swag from back in the day, very cool! Featured Video There is much controversy surrounding the Radial Arm Saw, some of the negative beliefs are founded which has led to the RAS to be known as the bad guy in the workshop. I've delved into the online rabbit hole of Radial Arm Saw use, and have explored commentary and How To's and I came away with a new fresh outlook on the RAS for the home shop. Many of us own one, and many of us grew up watching our dad, uncle, grandpa use one and possibly perform some crazy tasks on those machines. Here is a good video I feel that demonstrates safe and proper use of the RAS for ripping purposes. You can probably skip to around the 3:30 minute mark to get to the meat of the video, the first part of it has some thoughtful history and setup philosophy for the video. I'd like to thank @User74 for bringing this subject up in his own topic at My Saw Now. Enjoy!
  5. Wow very cool DanL. I bet that was really fun and engaging. Sure would be nice to have events like these on the west coast but they just don't come out our way. Happy for ya!
  6. I'll take that as a compliment John, I still got it, even at 58 yrs old.
  7. Wonderful gift from the giver and what a cool adventure you are on now Fred, we are never to old to learn new techniques, even for you Fred
  8. Hey Pat, welcome to our community. I have done a few wheel chair ramps in a theme park I used to work at in the carpenter maintenance shop. At first we were cutting the angles for where the ramps would meet the sidewalk or concrete, and we basically did a test cut and test fit, cutting a little at a time then following up with porta planner till the proper angle was met. We stopped building the ramps this way and instead went with a ramp transition piece, it was much easier and quicker to build, and much more durable. The old way we did it the edges where the ramp met the sidewalk, would eventually crumble. So here is what I would suggest, it'll make your life easier building the ramp, and it is more durable, there are several on the market these days. https://www.homedepot.com/p/EZ-ACCESS-TRANSITIONS-Aluminum-Threshold-Ramp-6-5-in-L-x-34-in-W-x-1-in-H-TMER-1/203265849 Just set this over your ramp lip at the bottom of the ramp where it meets the walkway, no need to cut an angle in the wood, keep it squared off and set the ramp plate over the bottom edge of the ramp. You could even make one yourself with a little creativity. Just a straight flat piece of durable metal will do. For the transition at the top of the ramp where it meets the landing, that can be filled in easily enough, or not at all depending on the gap.
  9. Pat welcome to our community. Thank you for joining!

  10. @Larry Buskirk, a full new version of our software is coming out soon, it will feature a light and dark mode, you'll love it.
  11. Here's an interesting video on the RAS subject and its effectiveness and safety. You can skip to around 3:30 into the video to get to the meat of the subject.
  12. By the way 74, I watched my dad do all those things yours did, he ripped boards all the time, and quite a few more things with his RAS, those molding heads sure looked scary to me but he loved em. I wouldn't recommend to my own kids to do what he used to do, thankfully we do have safer equipment to get the job done these days, and better. That being said, I've planned for sometime to have a good RAS for my own shop, to replace my CMS. I like them.
  13. My Dad's shop, Dewalt Home Shop RAS in the back ground, no blade guard at all, that's just the way he always rolled, since as long as I can remember him. He also never uses a fence on his table saw, he just free feeds the panel or board through the table saw, the only time he ever used the TS Fence was for accurate cutting of strips. Here's my dad and his shop, during better days, now he's in a nursing home as a stroke patient
  14. Looks like a good hearty craft table John! Thanks for sharing and good to see ya around here! By the way, I went ahead and moved this topic from the CNC Forum to the General Woodworking Forum since "No CNC Involed".
  15. A New Wiki As many of you may know, I have struggled to put together a wiki for our community, a wiki about all things woodworking and because of time constraints and frustration with the ever changing open source wiki software I have been using, I am ready to abandon the idea and start transferring what I have accomplished thus far to our community here. I am starting with our Glossaries, they are basic at this point. Once I have the wiki transferred to our community, you'll see the glossary items grow with links to other pages for that specific glossary item. Also, our Glossary here will be easily editable by you, our members. You'll be very familiar with the text editor we have and you'll feel more comfortable adding your own glossary entries into the existing glossary, after all that was my initial intention to have our members contribute to our wiki and grow it. But the existing wiki software's editor has been complicated for the average end user and zero contributions were made. As I said, I am starting by transferring the Glossaries, at this point the content can be found by the drop down menu item "Wiki", then at the bottom choose "Glossary". Here is the current glossary transferred to our community: The Patriot Woodworker Glossary Here is the glossary of old at the long standing wiki of old: Old Patriot Woodwiki Glossary More projects will be added and transferred over time from the old wiki to our community here. For now though, feel free to edit our glossaries, don't worry, if you make a mistake it can be reverted, or you can correct it! Happy Editing!
  16. Instructions Welcome to our Glossary of Woodworking Terms. Feel free to edit and add terminology to this research page. Please follow the general guidelines as outlined below. Add only woodworking terminology that is widely used in the crafts, arts, trades and industry of woodworking. Avoid entering terminology that is used locally, or regionally. Please research your own entries, before entering them here, and verify that they are indeed accurate and reliable. A Air dried - Lumber that is cured by air drying. Arbor - A shaft that is rotated at the axis of a motor, that typically would carry a cutting blade, such as may be found on a table saw. Architrave - An ornamental moulding around a door or window frame, covering the joint between the frame and plaster. Arris - A sharp edge between two faces. B Battenboard - A variation of laminboard with the core formed of strips. Baluster - One of a set of posts supporting a stair handrail. Balustrade - The protective barrier alongside a staircase or landing. Banister - See Balustrade. Batten - A narrow strip of wood. Beaded wood - A simple round moulding. Also see Moulded wood. Bench dog - A peg that stands taller than the workbench used as a stop for material movement as it's being worked on. Bevel - An angle but not a right angle. A sloping or canted surface. Biscuit joint - A joint formed by making corresponding slots in adjoining pieces and inserting a biscuit (aka plate), a football-shaped compressed piece of wood. Biscuit joiners are machines that make the slots with a circular blade. Bodging - Bodging is a traditional woodturning craft, using green wood to make chair legs and other cylindrical parts of chairs. The work was done close to where a tree was felled. The itinerant craftsman who made the chair legs was known as a bodger or chair-bodger. Bodger - "Bodgers" were skilled itinerant wood-turners, who worked in the beech woods on the chalk hills of the Chilterns. They cut and worked timber into roughly cylindrical blanks using hand tools; and then processed these blanks into chair legs, stretchers and rails by turning them on a pole-lathe. These components were then sold on for assembly in the furniture center of High Wycombe; established there because of the proximity of the beech woods. Bole - The tree trunk is sometimes also called the bole. After felling, the branches are removed, leaving the trunk - at this stage it's known as a log. Broad-leaved trees - Broad-leaved trees produce hardwood timber. Their seeds are in an enclosed case or ovary, such as an acorn or walnut. In temperate climates they're usually deciduous - they lose their leaves in winter. Blockboard - A variation of laminboard with a core formed of square wood strips glued together. Blush - White areas in a finish, usually lacquer or shellac, that happens when moisture is in the finish. This can be the result of applying the finish in humid environment or exposure to moisture in a cured finish. The latter is often the result of wet glasses or wet cloths on a finish. Box joint - A corner joint made by interlocking fingers. AKA finger joint, bee-hive joint. Burn in - See types below: A type of touch up repair where a resin stick is melted with a tool and then added to fill a dent or scratch. Sometimes called a shellac stick, lacquer stick or beaumontage. The property of a finish to partially dissolve or soften a lower layer and bond as a single layer. C Casing - The timber lining of a door opening. Carving - See types below Caricature - Chip - Chip carving or chip-carving, kerbschnitt in German, is a style of carving in which knives or chisels are used to remove small chips of the material from a flat surface in a single piece. The style became important in Migration Period metalwork, mainly animal style jewellery, where the faceted surfaces created caught the light to give a glinting appearance. This was very probably a transfer to metalworking of a technique already used in woodcarving, but no wooden examples have survived. Famous Anglo-Saxon examples include the jewellery from Sutton Hoo and the Tassilo Chalice, though the style originated in mainland Europe. In later British and Irish metalwork, the same style was imitated using casting, which is often called imitation chip-carving, or sometimes just chip carving (authors are not always careful to distinguish the two), a term also sometimes applied to pottery decorated in a similar way. Chainsaw - Relief - Whittling - Cellular wood panel - Similar to blockboard and battenboard panels but the battens and laths form the core and are spaced either parallel or in lattice form. Panels are relatively light but have some strength. Chamfered - The edges have been removed lengthwise at an angle. Composites - "Structural timber composites" is the collective name for engineered wood-based materials or components. Those currently available include: glued laminated timber or glulam laminated veneer lumber (LVL) parallel strand lumber (PSL) laminated strand lumber (LSL) Conifer or Softwood - Those classed as softwoods usually have needle-like or scale-like leaves and on all but the junipers, some cedars, yews, and a few others, the “fruit” is a “cone” or ball of woody, overlapping closed scales, beneath each scale of which is enfolded one or more seeds. The “cone” of the junipers and yews is a small berry-like fruit within the pulp of which one or more seeds are enveloped. Because the leaves or “needles” of most of the conifers, except the Baldcypress and larches, remain on the tree for several years, the name “evergreen” is given this group. The botanical name for these plants is Gymnosperm. The softwoods are technically designated as nonporous woods usually having resin canals, which include only the wood of Gymnospermae. Conversion - The process of cutting logs by sawing them into usable sections of timber, such as beams and planks. Counterbore - To cut a hole that allows the head of a bolt or screw to sit flush with or lie below the level of a surface. Countersink - To cut a tapered recess that allows the head of a screw to lie flush with a surface. Crosscut - Cutting wood perpendicular to the direction of the grain. Cup - To bend as a result of shrinkage, specifically across the width of a piece of wood. D Dado - 1. A channel cut in the face of a board, perpendicular to the grain. cf. groove 2. The lower part of an interior wall, usually defined with a moulded rail. Densification - A chemical or physical treatment - layers are bonded together with treatment in excess of that needed to ensure a good bond - to increase hardness and improve mechanical strength or resistance to chemical or electrical agencies. Density - The mass per unit volume of a substance, usually expressed in kilograms per cubic metre. Distortion - The change in the shape of a piece of timber or timber-based material brought about by shrinkage as the timber dries. It includes bowing, twisting and cupping. Domino - A type of loose tenon and corresponding machine made by Festool. Dovetail - A type of joint. One piece has a splayed shape - like a dove's tail - and fits into the socket or eye of the second piece. Doweling - Cylindrical piece or length of wood. Also known as rounded wood. Drip groove - A groove cut or moulded in the underside of a door or window sill to prevent rainwater running back to the wall. Dry board - See Wet processing. Dry rot - Decay in lumber/timber by fungal infection, typically in moist, humid, stagnant and poorly ventilated areas. Dye - A type of colorant that is dissolved in a solvent such as oil, alcohol, or water. Component of some stains and toners. See various types below: Concentrate - Liquid - Powder - E Earlywood - The less dense wood formed during the early stage of a growth season. Eaves - The edges of a roof that project beyond the walls. Edge and end spacing - Spacing's between fasteners and the edges and ends of the components that are being joined. Edge grain - The long grain side of a board, or also the long edge of a board, perpendicular to the end grain. A jointer plane is typically used to join the long grain, or edge grain of a board before gluing the two boards edge to edge in order to make wider board. End grain - The exposed face of timber produced when it's cut through a plane that's perpendicular to the grain. The end of a board where the open cells of the wood are exposed. End-jointed - See Finger-jointed. Engineered wood - Layers of hardwood compressed together. Extruded particle board - Particle board made using extrusion. This may have holes running internally from end to end. F Face - The show side or exposed side in a woodworking project. Face edge - In woodworking, the surface planed square to the face side. Face side - In woodworking, the flat planed surface from which other dimensions and angles are measured. Fairing stick - Typically a thin piece of wood, or strip, that can bend and flex in order to trace and draw a curve on a surface, usually an arc. Fascia board - A strip of wood that covers the ends of rafters and to which external guttering is fixed. Fiberboard - Wood chips bonded together by their own adhesive properties - lignin. Known as hardboard, mediumboard and softboard. Finger-jointed - Also called end-jointed. Shorter pieces of wood are joined to create a longer piece of wood. The joint looks like interlaced fingers. Floating Tenon - A separate piece of wood that is inserted into mortises on both sides to form a joint. Floor board - Material for forming the surface of floors. Foliage - Leaves. Frame and Panel - A type of construction of a door or carcase where a flat or raised panel is set into rails and stiles. Furring battens - Parallel strips of wood fixed to a wall or ceiling to provide a framework for attaching panels. G Glaze - A type of finish colorant added between layers of finish. Generally high in pigment and low in binder. Can be manipulated while wet for various effects. Glazing - Glass panel Glulam - Glulam or glued laminated timber is one of a range of structural timber composites. Glulam is made by gluing together strength graded laminates to produce large section structural components that can be straight or curved. Beams are manufactured in stock or bespoke sizes. Going - The horizontal measurement between the top and bottom risers of a stair or the depth of one stair tread. Grain - The general direction of wood fibres or the pattern produced on the surface of timber by cutting through the fibres. Also see End grain and Short grain. Green woodworking - The craft of working with wood that is unseasoned and not dried. Green woodworking is typically conducted with material either straight from a live tree or shortly after the material has been extracted from the tree. Green woodworking generally and famously includes the making of chairs, stools, smaller implements such as spoons and bowls. See "Bodging". The green woodworking community generally uses only hand tools and human powered lathes (pole lathes). Groove - A long narrow channel along the direction of the grain. cf. Dado. Also see Tongued and Grooved. H Hardboard - See Fiberboard. Hardwood - Timber produced from broad-leaved trees. Head - The top horizontal member of a wooden frame. Head plate - The top horizontal member of a stud partition. Heartwood - The inner area of a tree trunk or log that - when the tree was growing - had stopped containing living cells and reserve materials, such as starch. The heartwood may be darker in color than the outer sapwood though not all species show a clear difference between the two. The heartwood is often more durable than sapwood. Hide Glue - A type of glue made from bones, hooves and skins of animals. Often used in veneering and lutherie. Horns - Extended door or window stiles designed to protect the corners from damage while in storage. I Impact Driver - A power tool used to drive screws, nuts, or other fasteners. It features a hammer-like rotary motion to apply torque. Impregnation or injection - The injection and impregnation of wood are treatments to preserve the wood and give it durability, to make it fire resistant and protect against shrinkage. The treatment ensures the long-term preservation of poles of coniferous wood. The treatment involves soaking the timber for a long period in open vats of hot liquid in which the poles are left until the liquid cools down. Alternatively, they can be treated in an autoclave through a vacuum or under pressure or the wood can be deeply impregnated - usually with thermosetting plastics or molten metal. Impregnation with thermosetting plastics - for example amino-resins or phenolic resins - is often applied to very thin veneers that are built up into laminated wood but not to solid wood. Interlocking joint - Interlocking is a way of jointing timber. Each piece is cut to fit against or into another to prevent displacement and to transfer forces. The joint must either be in compression or pinned or keyed after assembly. J Jamb - The vertical side member of a door or window frame. Janka hardness test - The Janka hardness test measures the resistance of a sample of wood to denting and wear. It measures the force required to embed an 11.28 mm (.444 in) steel ball into wood to half the ball's diameter. This method leaves an indentation. A common use of Janka hardness ratings is to determine whether a species is suitable for use as flooring. Jointer - A power tool used to straighten the edge or face of a board. K Kerf - The groove cut by a saw. Knot - The remains of a branch in timber. A branch sawn off close to the trunk or shed naturally forms a sound or live knot. A broken branch stub that becomes surrounded by new growth produces a loose or dead knot in the timber. L Laminated veneer lumber (LVL) - LVL is a layered composite of wood veneers and adhesive and can be considered as a veneer based product. It's made up of parallel laminations of veneer, glued and processed together to form a material that's similar to sawn timber. Debarked spruce logs are soaked in hot water. Blocks are cut into a thick veneer and then cut into sheets and lengths. Veneers are dried to a moisture content below 5 per cent. The veneers are ultrasonically graded, with the higher grade placed on the outer faces of the plank. A scarf saw makes long chamfers in both ends of the veneers. Thermosetting phenolic resin glue is spread on the upper side of each sheet - except on the upper faces - and laid up so the grain direction is all the same. The veneers are pressed to spread the glue evenly before entering a hot-press. LVL is very similar to parallel strand lumber. Laminated wood - Several thin layers of wood and adhesives that are built up to make a single board. Laminboard - Thick compound board with a core that's usually made up of small strips, glued together at right angles and with a surface of other woods. Ligneous - Of wood or resembling wood, woody. Examples of ligneous materials other than wood are bagasse, bamboo, cereal straw, and flax or hemp shives. Lignin - The natural adhesive and bonding properties found in the cellular structure of wood and used for bonding together fibreboard and similar products. M Marquetry - A pattern of inlaid veneers that usually consists of thin pieces of wood or other material - such as base metal, shell or ivory - glued to a wooden backboard for decoration. Microporous - Used to describe a type of finish that allows timber to dry out while protecting it from rainwater. Mitre - Two pieces forming an angle, or a joint formed between two pieces of wood by cutting bevels of equal angles at the ends of each piece. Mediumboard - See Fiberboard. Mortise - A recess or hole, formed in one piece to receive a projection or tenon on the end of another piece. Moulded wood - Strips of wood - known as mouldings or beadings - shaped with contours for decoration or ornament. Movement - The swelling and shrinkage of wood as a result of changing moisture content. Movement in length is always negligible. Movement parallel with the growth rings is greater than at right angles to them. The degree of movement varies between species. Mullion - A vertical dividing member of a window frame. Muntin - A central vertical member of a panel door. N Newel - The post at the top or bottom of a staircase that supports the handrail. Nogging - A short horizontal wooden member between studs. Nosing - The front edge of a stair tread. O Oriented strand board (OSB) - To make OSB, logs are fed into a lathe-like machine where the bark is removed and the machine chews up the logs completely to produce flakes of wood. These flakes are sifted to eliminate the very tiny particles, then mixed thoroughly with a dust of waxes and heat-triggered resin glues. Layers of the fibres are placed in alternating directions - alternately at right angles - until the desired thickness is achieved. This is placed in a thermal press that activates and compresses the loose materials at the same time, causing the wax covered resin to activate and bond. The panels are trimmed and grade stamped. P Panel Saw - Entry needed Parallel strand lumber - This is a structural wood product made from softwood veneer that has been sized into long and narrow strips that are then glued into parallel laminations. It's very similar to laminated veneer lumber. Particle board - Woodchips, sawdust, wood residues and so on that are bound or glued together to form a flat board. Peeling - See Rotary cut. Permeability - The ease with which liquids - such as preservatives or flame retardants - can be impregnated into timber. Permeability varies with species, although the sapwood of all species is more permeable than the heartwood. Permeability ratings relate to the heartwood of the species. Pigment - A type of colorant consisting of particles that are suspended in the host product. Used in some stains, glazes, and toners Pitch - Pitch is a name for any of a number of viscoelastic polymers. Pitch can be natural or manufactured, derived from petroleum, coal tar or plants. Various forms of pitch may also be called tar, bitumen or asphalt. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Some products made from plant resin are also known as rosin. Pitch was traditionally used to help caulk the seams of wooden sailing vessels (see shipbuilding). Pitch may also be used to waterproof wooden containers and in the making of torches. Petroleum-derived pitch is black in color, hence the adjectival phrase, "pitch-black".4 Plane - A hand tool used to smooth and level a surface Planed - Smooth surfaced. Planer - A power tool used to smooth and reduce the thickness of a board. Planking - Planking is available in various widths and is available with tongue and groove in lengths or as plain square edged planks that simply butt up against one another. Plywood - To create plywood, the bark is removed from a log and the bare log is placed on a lathe-type machine that peels off thin layers of wood, usually after the wood has been steamed or soaked in hot water. The sheets of wood are sorted according to the number of knot holes, grain imperfections and so on. The best sheets become the outside - face sheet or veneer sheet - of the plywood. These layers are laid down edge to edge with their grain running perpendicular to the panel’s grain, then spliced, taped, stitched or glued together. The rough-edged panel then goes to the trimming area where it's cut to the appropriate size and grade stamped. Pocket Hole Joint - A type of joint made by drilling a hole at an angle through the face of one piece and screwing through it to another piece. Special jigs are available for drilling the pilot holes and special screws, called pocket hole screws, are available for use. Pointside - The piece of timber in a joint that receives the point of a nail or screw. The other section is known as the headside. Preservative treatment - The treatment of timber with chemicals to improve its resistance to attack by biological organisms, such as fungi, insects and marine borers. The chemicals can be brushed or sprayed onto the surface of the timber but treatment is more effective if the chemicals are impregnated into the timber under vacuum and/or pressure in special treatment vessels. Purlin - A horizontal beam that provides intermediate support for rafters or sheet roofing. Q Quarter-sawn - Lumber that is cut with annular rings 60-90 degrees from the face. The result is a straight grain pattern on the face of the board and in some woods like white oak, a lot of "ray fleck" figure from the medullary rays. R Rabbet or Rebated - A channel cut along the edge of a board, either with or across the grain. Rafter - One of a set of parallel sloping beams that form the main structural element of a roof. Rail - 1. The horizontal part of a door door or window frame. 2. A horizontal member of a staircase or wall (eg., chair rail, hand rail) Raised panel - Part of a door or carcase where a panel is set into a rail and stile. The panel is beveled on the edges on one or both faces to fit into grooves. This allows the panel to expand and contract in varying humidity. Ray - A narrow ribbon of cells that conducts and stores food in a tree. Rays run across the grain of timber. Reveal - The vertical side of an opening in a wall. Rift-sawn - Lumber that is cut with annular rings 30-60 degrees from the face. The result is a straight grain pattern on the face of the board. Ripcut - Cutting wood parallel with the grain. Riser - The vertical part of a step. Robertson - Trademark for a type of square drive used on screws and other fasteners. Rotary cut - The log is mounted in a large lathe and turned against the blade which peels the veneers in long sheets. Also called peeling or slicing. Rounded wood - See Doweling. S Sanded - Smooth surfaced - smoother than a planed surface. Sandwich construction - A warm roof construction where the insulation is located above the roof deck but below the weatherproof membrane. May also refer to composite panel products known as sandwich panels where panels are built up from layers of different materials. Sap - Liquid - mostly water - contained within cells in a tree or timber. Sap is the means by which dissolved food and salts are moved around the tree. Sapwood - The outer area of a tree trunk or log, which in the growing tree contains living cells and reserve materials such as starch. Sapwood is generally lighter in colour than the inner heartwood, although not all species show a clear difference between the two. The sapwood is more vulnerable to attack by biological organisms but is also usually more permeable than the heartwood - this makes it easier to treat with preservatives. Sash - A type of window or the opening part of a window. Screw - A cylindrical metal fastener with a helical thread and head made to accept a driver. Shake - Wood that's split to reveal its natural texture. Sheen - The "glossiness" of a finish. The true measure is on a 0-100 reading from a reflectometer with a light at a 60 degree incident angle. Manufacturers will assign various names with a range such as dead flat, flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, gloss, high-gloss. Shingle - Wood sawn lengthwise that's thicker at one end - the butt - and thinner at the other end - the tip. Short grain - When the general direction of wood fibers lies across a narrow section of timber. Sill - The lowest horizontal member of a stud partition or the lowest horizontal member of a door or window frame. Skirting or skirting board - A moulded base board or plinth to an inside wall. Also called a washboard. Slicing - See Rotary cut. Slöjd - Sloyd, also known as Educational sloyd, is a system of handicraft-based education started by Uno Cygnaeus in Finland in 1865. The system was further refined and promoted worldwide, and was taught in the United States until the early 20th Century. Soffit - The underside of a part of a building such as the eaves or archway. Softboard - See Fiberboard. Softwood - This is usually obtained from pine, fir, spruce or larch. Most structural timber used in the UK is softwood. Spandrel - The triangular infill below the outer string of a staircase. Species - The botanical classification of trees and timber. The Latin species name defines a timber more accurately than its common name as these are sometimes used for more than one species of timber. They may also vary between countries. Staff bead - The innermost strip of timber holding a sliding sash in a window frame. Stave - A planed plank - bent to some degree - pared or chamfered at one end at least, with a groove called a "croze" to assist with putting together casks and barrels. Stile - A vertical side member of a door or window sash. Stopper - A wood filler which matches the color of the timber. Strength grade - The strength of timber varies with the species and is also affected by characteristics like knots, slope of grain and splits. Each piece of timber used structurally has to be strength graded, either by visual inspection or by machine. The timber is marked with its grade and other information such as its species, whether the timber was graded wet or dry, the company responsible for the grading and the certification body responsible for overseeing the grading operation. String - A board that runs from one floor level to another, into which staircase treads and risers are jointed. The one on the open side of a staircase is the outer string, the one against the wall is the wall string. Structural timber composites - See Composites. Stud partition - An interior timber-framed dividing wall. Stud - A vertical member of a timber-framed wall. Swage - Entry needed T Tenon - The end of a piece of wood that's been reduced in section to fit in a recess or cavity of the same size or a projecting tongue on the end of a piece of wood which fits into a corresponding mortise. (not a tendon) Toner - A type of finish that has both a film finish and a color in it. Typically sprayed on. Tongue - A reduction of the thickness of the edge of a board. Also see Tongued and grooved. Tongued and grooved - Boards with one edge that's grooved and the other that's flanged with a tongue or extended edge. When assembled side by side the tongue fits into the groove. Touch-sanding - Used on the outer ply merely to deal with irregularities due to patching, plugging or filling. Transom - A horizontal dividing member of a window frame. Tread - The horizontal part of a step. Trunk - The trunk of a tree, sometimes also called the bole. After felling, the branches are removed, leaving the trunk - at this stage known as a log. U V V- jointed - Usually tongued and grooved wood with a V-shaped channel in the center of the board. Veneer - A thin or fine sheet of wood produced by rotary-cutting, peeling or slicing. W Waferboard - Thin wafers of wood that look like small pieces of veneer that are bonded together under heat and pressure with glue, resulting in a solid uniform panel that gives strength and water resistance. Wall plate - A horizontal timber member placed along the top of a wall to support joists and to spread their load. Wane - The original rounded surface of a log - with or without bark - on any face or edge of sawn timber. Waney edge - A natural wavy edge on a plank. It might still be covered by tree bark. Warp - To bend or twist as a result of dampness or heat. Wasting - The process of eliminating wood rapidly, as in using an adze to waste the wood quickly. Wet processing - Hardboard is produced by reducing wood to fibers, which gives the name fiberboard. With wet processing, the fibers are suspended in water, then laid out on a mat to dry. This releases the natural resins which bond the fibers together, instead of an artificial bonding agent - although some wet processed boards have additional bonding agents added to give them certain properties. It's generally possible to tell the difference between dry and wet processed hardboard as dry board is typically smooth on both sides. Wet board has one smooth side and one "mesh" side. The mesh finish is a result of water draining out of the mesh side after pressing. One exception is hardboard for furniture which has usually been sanded. This doesn't have a mesh finished side but there's still a noticeable difference as one side is polished and the other side has a matt finish. Wood-based board - Wood-based board materials are manufactured from layers, particles or fibers of wood that's glued or compressed together to produce a flat board. The most common examples include plywood, chipboard and various types of fiber building board, including hardboard and MDF. Wood block - Wood block is flooring made up from small strips or blocks of wood, around three inches wide and nine inches long, arranged in herringbone, basket-weave and other geometric patterns. Wood planks - Planks in long lengths with widths of four inches or more. Wood strip - Boards that are narrower and shorter than planks and have up to three strips of wood per board. X X-acto - A series of sharp precise knives and razor style cutting tools used for fine and exacting cuts in wood, veneers, and other work where a fine cut is needed. Y Z
  17. Instructions Welcome to our Glossary of Woodworking Machinery. Feel free to edit and add terminology to this research page. Please follow the general guidelines as outlined below. Add only woodworking terminology that is widely used in the crafts, arts, trades and industry of woodworking. Avoid entering terminology that is used locally, or regionally. Please research your own entries before entering them here, and verify that they are indeed accurate and reliable. A B Bench grinder - A smaller machine typically small enough for a one person to lift, that fits on a bench top, usually outfitted with two grinding wheels on both sides of a single motor. The motors for this smaller grinding machine are usually in the 1/4hp to 1hp range. The bench top grinder can be used for grinding metal, sharpening cutting edges, and with a wire wheel to clean metal surfaces. Bench top grinders also come in various rpm ranges, the slow speed grinder is preferred for sharpening tools and metal edges, and for buffing metal as well. The slow speed is desired because the speed will not heat up the metal to the point of losing hardness when it comes to sharpening tools and implements. C Combination machine - Combination machines is one machine that could consist of two machines or more. A typical combination machine would have a surface planer and joiner planer, run by one motor. There are many different types of combination machines, other examples are multi use machines that may contain up to 5 or 7 operations such as one machine that can perform the following process: table saw, drill press, horizontal boring, lathe, and disc sand. The more popular machine that can run those tasks from one power source is the Shopsmith machine. D Drill press - Entry needed Dust collector - Entry needed E F G H Horizontal boring - Entry needed I J K L Lathe - Entry needed M Mortiser - Entry needed N O P Planer - See various types below: Double side planer - Four side planer - Jointer planer - A jointer or in some configurations, a jointer-planer is a woodworking machine used to produce a flat surface along a board's length. As a jointer, the machine operates on the narrow edge of boards, preparing them for use as butt joint or gluing into panels. A planer-jointer setup has the width that enables smoothing and leveling the faces of boards small enough to fit the tables. 1 Thickness planer - Pin router - Entry needed Q R S Saw - See various types below: Bandsaw - A bandsaw (also written band saw) is a saw with a long, sharp blade consisting of a continuous band of toothed metal stretched between two or more wheels to cut material. They are used principally in woodworking, metalworking, and lumbering, but may cut a variety of materials. Chop saw - Compound miter saw - Miter saw - Panel saw - Radial arm saw - 2 A radial arm saw is a cutting machine consisting of a circular saw mounted on a sliding horizontal arm. Invented by Raymond DeWalt in 1922, the radial arm saw was the primary tool used for cutting long pieces of stock to length until the introduction of the power miter saw in the 1970s. Scroll saw - Table saw - 3 A table saw is a woodworking tool, consisting of a circular saw blade, mounted on an arbor, that is driven by an electric motor. The blade protrudes through the top of a table, which provides support for the material, usually wood, being cut. Sander - See various entries below Combo - Drum - Edge - Oscillating - Wide belt - Shaper - Entry needed T Tenon machine - Entry needed U V W X Y Z
  18. Instructions Welcome to our Glossary of Woodworking Joints. Feel free to edit and add terminology to this research page. Please follow the general guidelines as outlined below. Add only woodworking terminology that is widely used in the crafts, arts, trades and industry of woodworking. Avoid entering terminology that is used locally, or regionally. Please research your own entries, before entering them here, and verify that they are indeed accurate and reliable. A B Box - A corner joint with interlocking square fingers. Receives pressure from two directions. Bridle - The bridle joint is often defined as the reverse of a mortise and tenon, and is chiefly used in the carpentry and joinery trades. The name probably originated from the fact that it bears some resemblance to the manner in which a bit slips into the horse's mouth and is fastened to the bridle. Butt - The end of a piece of wood is butted against another piece of wood. This is the simplest and weakest joint. Of those, there is the a) T-butt, b) end-to-end butt, c) Miter butt and d) edge-to-edge butt. C D Dovetail - See various types of Dovetail joinery below: Through - A Through joint is where the end grain is visible from both boards. Through dovetail joints are most commonly used on box construction and carcass (framework of the piece). This joint is also called a plain dovetail by many in the woodworking community. In the past the ends showing through would have been masked by a veneer. Today they are a sign of exceptional quality and are left showing with pride. Half-blind - A half-blind dovetail joint also known as the single-lap dovetail joint is exactly opposite of a through joint because the end grain is not visible on the boards. Sockets house the tails at the end of the boards so the dovetail ends are invisible. Half-blind dovetail joints are commonly used for attaching drawer fronts. Secret mitered - A secret mitred joint is also know as a full-blind mitred dovetail and full-blind dovetail joint. Secret mitered joints are used in box work and cabinet construction and offers the best strength out of all of the dovetail joints. These joints are used for box work or fine cabinet construction where strength is needed without a joint you can see. Secret double-lapped - The secret double-lapped dovetail joint is kind of the like the mitred joint but has a visible section of end grain on a single edge of the joint. similar to the secret mitred dovetail, but presents a very thin section of end grain on one edge of the joint. Secret double-lapped joints are used for box construction and carcass construction to hid the dovetails. Sliding - The sliding dovetail joint is created by joining two wood boards at 90 degree angles, where the they intersect different than other types of dovetail joints. They intersect by sliding the tail of one board into the middle socket of the other. Sliding dovetail joints are commonly referred to French Dovetail joints. Sliding joints are commonly used to joint cabinet sides to shelves, sides to cabinet bottoms, shelves to horizontal partitions, table frames to adjacent sections, sides to drawer fronts, cabinet sides to front rails, body and neck in guitars and violins. Doweling - Dowelling is the term generally given to the method of jointing timber and other materials by wooden or metal pegs, which are called dowels. For cabinet-making and similar work straight-grained beechwood dowels are mostly used; these may be bought by the gross, in lengths of about 36 ins., and of any desired diameter. Draw bore - The draw bore joint method of joinery is typically used in a mortise and tenon joint. Some times in order to add additional strength to a mortise and tenon joint the crafts-person will bore through the joint and add a pegs or dowels to secure the tenon to the mortise, going a step further, one would also bore a hole(s) in the mortised part, then bore a hole(s) in the tenoned part that are offset slightly, then insert and ram home a trenail or trunnel pin, the tenoned part will draw tightly into the mortise. E F G Glued - The glued joint is made by planing two pieces of timber so that when placed together they are in contact with each other at every point; they are then usually united with glue. Alternative names under which it is known are the butt joint, the rubbed joint, the slipped joint, whilst in certain localities it is known as the slaped (pronounced slayped) joint. H Halved - The halved joint is frequently known as half-lapping, and sometimes as checking and half-checking. In the majority of cases it is made by halving the two pieces, i.e., by cutting half the depth of the wood away. There are, however, exceptions to this rule, as in the case of "three-piece halving" (or, as it is sometimes called, "third lapping") and in the halving of timber with rebated or moulded edges. Halving is one of the simplest methods of connecting two pieces of timber, especially where it is desired to make frames and bracket supports for either inside or outside use. I J K L Lap - The end of a piece of wood is laid over and connected to another piece of wood. Due to a large surface area of long-grain to long-grain wood and glue surface coverage, this is a very strong joint. M Mitering - The term mitering is generally used to denote the type of joint used at the corner of a picture frame; or where two pieces of wood are bevelled away so as to fit each other, as the skirting or plinth mould. In these cases the timber is cut so that the joint is at 45 degrees to the face, and the two pieces, when placed together, form an angle of 90 degrees (a right angle). Mortise and Tenon - A mortise (or mortice) and tenon joint is a type of joint that connects two pieces of wood or other material. Woodworkers around the world have used it for thousands of years to join pieces of wood, mainly when the adjoining pieces connect at an angle of 90°. In its basic form, it is both simple and strong. Mortise Corner Stub - Foxtail - Haunch - Tenon Bare Faced - Feather - Pinned - Stubbed or Stump - N O P Pocket-hole - Q R S Saddle - The "saddle joint" is used for connecting upright posts to heads or sills of framing, and undoubtedly takes its name from its similarity to the way in which the saddle fits the horse. It does not weaken the framing as does a mortise and tenon joint, and shrinkage has little effect upon the joint. Scarf - The method known as "scarfing" is used for the joining of timber in the direction of its length, enabling the workman to produce a joint with a smooth or flush appearance on all its faces. One of the simplest forms of scarfed joint is known as the half lap, in which a portion is cut out at the end of each beam or joist, equal in depth to half the full depth of the beam, and of equal length to the required scarf. T Tongued and Grooved - The tongued and grooved joint is used in one form or another throughout the whole of the woodworking trades, covering, as it does, a great variety of work from the laying of flooring boards to the construction of dressers, bookcases and other cabinet work. As the name of the joint implies, one one board a groove is created, on the joining board a tongue is created, and the two are married or matched together. U V W X Y Z
  19. Instructions Welcome to our Glossary of Woodworking Hand Tools. Feel free to edit and add "Hand Tools" to this research page. Please follow the general guidelines as outlined below. Add only woodworking terminology that is widely used in the crafts, arts, trades and industry of woodworking. Avoid entering terminology that is used locally, or regionally. Please research your own entries, before entering them here, and verify that they are indeed accurate and reliable. A Adze - An adze is similar to an axe, imagine an axe with its blade at a right angle to its haft (helve or handle). See various types below See various types below: Adze, Carpenters - This adze similar to the standard adze, yet has a square back of the blade, that can be used for striking other object as in a hammer or maul action. Adze, Coopers - The coopers adze is held by one hand and has a curved blade, typically used by barrel makers, favored for its small and easy to use weight and size, and for the curved blade. Adze, Sculptors - The sculptors adze has a straighter blade quite the opposite of the coopers adze, it as well is used by one hand. Adze, Ship Carpenters - This specialty adze has a blade similar to the shape of a garden hoe, and is fitted with a spur on the back of the blade, the spur is used to set large nails or to punch holes or indentations into the wood. Axe - See various types below: Broad - The Broad Axe is suitable for squaring logs and planks, for example when building a log house. Broad Axes very greatly depending on the shape of the head and edge and the angle of the handle. Carpenters - Carpenter's Axe or Carpenter's Hatchet is a small axe, usually slightly larger than a hatchet, used in traditional woodwork, joinery and log-building. It has a pronounced beard and finger notch to allow a "choked" grip for precise control. The poll is generally designed for use as a hammer. Newer carpenter's hatchets will often have a groove for pulling nails as well.2 Carving - The carving axe is the smaller of the other axe types. Used for rough shaping of smaller timbers and logs. The handle of the carving axe is roughly the same length of most hammer handles, and may have a pronounced curve in the handle from the lug of the axe head to the knob of the handle. This type of axe is popular among green woodworkers for it's agility in shaping and even paring down wood for final shaping in skilled hands. Felling - Used for cutting down trees, the felling axe has an extremely sharp blade or (bit) with a slightly tapered head. The average head weight of a felling axe is between 2.5 to 3.5 lbs. The tapered head and sharp bit allow for cutting across the wood grain, and deeply with each strike by the user. Hand - To put it shortly, a hand axe is roughly twice the length and weight of a hatchet. The hand axe handle is typically at a 90 degree angle to the head. While the hatchet handle is generally curved. The hand axe is an all purpose axe popular at campsites and for general chopping and size reduction of wood. A true hand axe is used by the hand and has its origins in pre-historic time periods. The head of the hand axe is gripped directly by one or two hands. It is the longest-used tool in human history and was typically "made of flint, but rhyolites, phonolites, quartzites and other coarse rocks were used as well. Obsidian, natural volcanic glass, shatters easily and was rarely used." 3 Hatchet - Hatchets are used chiefly by carpenters in shingling and lathing. They have a short handle and can be used both for cutting and nailing. Mortising - Used for cutting mortise or tenon joints for log and timber housing and structures. Splitting - Splitting Axe can be used for splitting all types of firewood. It is forged and ground to a concave, quite thin blade at the bit. The axe cuts quickly and easily into the wood and then effectively splits it as the broader section pushes apart the wood. Awl - A tool used for puncturing a small hole in wood, typically used for a starting guide prior to drilling a hole in the wood. The drill bit will be guided by the small puncture the awl creates. B Bench - The bench is a tool or appliance of the utmost importance to the woodworker. The best type of bench has a top that is constructed of narrow strips of hard wood, glued and bolted together. It usually has a recess or trough in which tools may be placed while working. The top is bolted to a frame consisting of four legs braced securely with cross-pieces. This frame is often fitted with one or more drawers. See various types below. Danish - European - Roubo - The Roubo workbench is a design created and used by Andre Jacob Roubo who was a carpenter, designer, and author, born and died in Paris, France (1739 - 1791). The bench designed by Roubo has been copied for modern day use and woodworkers use design elements of his bench to incorporate into their own benches. An excellent example of a modern day Roubo Bench by woodworker Kari Hultman. Brace - See various types below: Bit brace extension - A bit-brace extension is a steel rod having a small chuck on one end and a square shank like a bit on the other. A bit, 5/8 in. or more in diameter, is inserted into the chuck of the extension, and this in turn into the chuck of the brace. The smallest hole that can be bored with this tool measures 5/8 in. Bit-brace extensions are made from 12 to 21 in. in length. The smallest hole that can be bored with the larger size measures 3/4 in. Plain brace - The plain brace is a tool used for holding a bit securely while boring a hole. At one end the brace has a chuck for clamping the bit, at the other, a knob. The handle of the brace is shaped like a crank. Ratchet brace - The ratchet brace is fitted with an attachment which permits boring in places where a complete turn cannot be made. The size of braces is given according to the sweep; i.e., the diameter of the circle that the handle makes in a complete revolution. Boring - See various types below: Auger bit - Auger bits are screw shaped tools consisting of two main parts, the twist and the shank. The twist ends in two sharp points, the nibs or spurs, which score the circle, and two cutting edges, the lips, which remove the shavings from within the scored circle. A small screw point, in the center of the cutting end, centers the bit and draws it into the wood. Auger bit gauge - Auger-bit gauges of different types can be fastened to auger bits, and adjusted so that only holes of certain depths are bored.. Dowel bit - Dowel bits are short auger bits 4 1/2 in. long over-all. Ordinary auger bits up to 1 in. diameter are from 7 to 9 in. long over-all. Car bit - Car bits and ship augers are auger bits from 18 to 24 in. in length. Expansion bit - Expansion bits have a movable cutter, which is adjustable to bore holes of different diameters. Expansion bits are made in two sizes. The largest size has three cutters, and bores holes up to 4 in. in diameter. Gimlet bit - A gimlet is a hand tool for drilling small holes, mainly in wood, without splitting. It was defined in Joseph Gwilt's Architecture (1859) as "a piece of steel of a semi-cylindrical form, hollow on one side, having a cross handle at one end and a worm or screw at the other". Gimlet bits are used for boring holes of small diameters such as are needed when inserting screws in hard wood. Their size, which varies from 1/16 to 3/8 in. by thirty-seconds, is stamped on the tang. Twist bit - Twist bits are shaped just like the familiar twist drill, except that they have a steeper cutting angle and a square tang. They range in size from 1/16 to 5/8 in. by thirty-seconds. Twist bits can be used for wood only, while twist drills can be used for both wood and metal. Forstner bit- Forstner bits have no twist and no spur. They cut with a sharp circular steel rim and two lips within this rim. They bore very accurately, and are especially useful for boring thin wood and for end-wood boring. Their sizes are stamped on the tangs in sixteenths of an inch. Brad Awl - The bradawl has the appearance of a small screw driver. It is used for making holes into wood for screws and nails. The hole is produced by forcing the awl into the wood with a twisting motion. It should not be used in thin wood nor too near the edge. Rose Countersink - The countersink is a small, cone-shaped tool used for widening the end of holes bored for flat-head screws. One type can be opened and sharpened on an oil-stone. C Calipers - See various types below: Calipers inside - The inside calipers are used to measure the internal size of an object. Calipers outside - The outside calipers are used to measure the external size of an object. Dial - Dial calipers are normally used for measuring the thickness of materials and small amounts of movement. They are especially popular for automotive and machining applications. There are two sets of graduations on a dial caliper. The main scale is marked in one-tenth (0.1) inch intervals. Digital - Digital calipers measure the outside dimensions of a work-piece or feature. They have adjustable jaws that slide along a beam with an LCD that displays measurements without requiring interpretation. Jenny - Fixed point 'Jenny' calipers are specifically designed to locate the center of a round or square section of material, and are also used for marking off a constant distance from an edge. One leg holds an adjustable point and the other leg features a locating lug. Spring joint - A caliper having legs fastened together with a spring and pivot at the top joint. Vernier - Similar to the Digital caliper except the reading is on a vernier sliding scale instead of a digital read. Chisel - According to their construction, chisels may be divided into two general classes: tang chisels, in which part of the chisel enters the handle, and socket chisels, in which the handle enters into a part of the chisel. See various types below: Bevel edge - Butt - The butt chisel differs from the others only in that it has a shorter blade and, therefore, can be used in more inaccessible places. Carving - Corner - Dovetail - Firmer - The firmer chisel which is said to get its name from the fact that it is firmer or stiffer than the paring-chisel. The firmer-chisel is a general utility tool, being suited for hand pressure or mallet pounding, for paring or for light mortising. Flooring - Framing - The framing chisel has a very heavy and strong blade, and is used in rough carpentry work and shipbuilding. Mortise - The mortise chisel, as its name implies, is used for chiseling mortises. It is, therefore, very thick just below the handle so that it will not break when it is used as a lever in forcing the shavings out of the mortise. Paring - The paring chisel, which has a slender blade, is used mainly for hand chiseling. This type of chisel usually is beveled along the sides, so that fine work can be done, such as reeding which requires an extra-thin blade. Skew - Socket - Socket mortise - Tang paring - Clamp - See various types below: Steel bar - Steel bar clamps consist of a steel beam or bar fitted with a screw and crank at one end, and a steel head which can be moved along the bar and fastened to it by means of slots cut into its lower edge at short intervals. Steel bar clamps are made in lengths of 2', 2' 6", 3', 4', 5', 6', 7', and 8 ft. C - C clamps, or screw clamps, sometimes called "carriage-maker's clamps," consist of a malleable-iron frame, bent in the shape of the letter C, and a steel screw with a swivel tip. They are made in sizes, which, when open, measure from 3 to 12 in. Column - Column clamps consist of a steel chain and a right and left screw. They are very useful when gluing together polygons, shaped columns, and any circular work such as the apron for a round table. Hand screw - Hand screws are most useful both in clamping up finished work and in holding work under construction. They consist of two jaws made of hard wood and two steel spindles, the end and middle spindles. They are opened or closed by grasping a handle in each hand and revolving the hand screw. The size of a hand screw is indicated by the length of the jaw in inches, the smallest being 6 in. and the largest 18 in. D Dividers/Compass - Entry needed Draw Knife - The drawknife is used for rough cutting, especially on edges, both straight and curved. It is a tool with a long blade whose cutting edge is on the side. At each end of the blade is a handle. The operator grips the handles and draws the knife toward him. E F File - See various types below: Flat - Half round - Round - Froe - A froe (or frow) or shake axe is a tool for cleaving wood by splitting it along the grain. It is an L-shaped tool, used by hammering one edge of its blade into the end of a piece of wood in the direction of the grain, then twisting the blade in the wood by rotating the haft (handle). G H Hammer - See various types below: Claw - The claw hammer is the type of hammer generally used by carpenters and woodworkers. The peen of this hammer is bent and shaped so that it can be used for pulling nails. The face of the hammer often is slightly convex, or bell-faced, so that it will not make a circular mark on the surface of the wood after striking the last blow on the head of a nail. It is important to keep the face of the hammer clean and free from grease or glue, so that it will not glance off the head of a nail and bend it. The size of the hammer is indicated by the weight of the head in pounds and ounces. Ball Pein - A ball-pein hammer, also known as a machinist's hammer, is a type of peening hammer used in metalworking. It is distinguished from a cross-peen hammer, diagonal-peen hammer, point-peen hammer, or chisel-peen hammer by having a hemispherical head. It is commonly used as a tool for metalworking. Cross and Straight Pein - These hammers have a wedge-shaped head instead of a ball-shaped head. This wedge shape spreads the metal perpendicular to the edge of the head. The straight-peen hammer has the wedge oriented parallel to the hammer's handle, while the cross-peen hammer's wedge is oriented perpendicular.5 Club - Sledge - Joiner's Mallet - Mallets are wooden hammers. As wood is more elastic than iron or steel, a mallet should always be used when driving on wood. The blows of a steel hammer would soon splinter a chisel handle and mar a joint to be driven together beyond repair. Soft-faced - Handsaw - See various types below: Ripsaw - The ripsaw is used for ripping or cutting with the grain along the straight line. Blades of ripsaws vary in length from 20 to 28 in. They are always wider at the handle than at the end, in order to prevent them from bending or buckling when they are pushed through the wood. Crosscut saw - The crosscut saw is similar in shape and appearance to the ripsaw. The only difference lies in the shape of the teeth, which are filed to a point instead of square across as on a ripsaw. The number of points to the inch varies from 8 to 12. Backsaw - The backsaw is a crosscut saw wtih a thin blade and fine teeth. A heavy piece of steel fitted over the back of the thin blade prevents it from buckling. The blades of backsaws are from 8 to 18 in. long. Backsaws are used for finer work such as cheek and shoulder cuts on tenons. Dovetail saw - The dovetail saw is shaped like a backsaw, but has thinner, narrower blade and finer teeth. The handle of a dovetail saw is shaped like a chisel handle. The length of the blade varies from 6 to 12 in. It is used for extremely fine work such as cutting of dovetails. Compass saw - shaped like a ripsaw, but its blade is so narrow that it can cut on curved line. It is particularly useful in cutting a section from within a board or panel. A hole is bored near the line to be cut and the pointed end of the saw inserted into this hole. Keyhole saw - is a smaller and finer compass saw. Tenon saw - The tenon saw has a higher blade body in the back-saw class of saws. It's stout and firm blade allows deep cuts for joinery and prevents binding in the material. The Tenon saw is often used as a carcass saw. Turning saw - consists of a very narrow blade, about 3/16 in. wide, which is held under tension in a frame. It has ripsaw teeth and is used for cutting curves, as the blade usually can be revolved in the frame. It can also be set in the frame so that it cuts either on the pulling or the pushing stroke. Hack saw - is not properly a woodworker's tool, but is often a very convenient tool to have in the shop. It has a narrow blade set in a long, narrow metal frame, and is used for cutting metals. Coping saw - is a very small turning saw usually having a metal frame. It is used for sawing fretwork patterns and coping moldings. I J K L Lathe - See various types below: Spring pole lathe - A reciprocating lathe that uses a springy pole to return the treadle and drive cord to the start position for the power stroke. Usually, the lathe consists of a track or "bed" that carries two movable "puppets" that support conical centers that poke into the ends of the turning wood and define the axis of rotation. The drive cord attaches to the free end of the spring pole, wraps around the work and then down to the foot treadle. The turner cuts the spinning wood on the down-stroke of the treadle and then allows the spring pole to lift it back up. Treadle lathe - Level - Used for checking vertical surfaces for plumb or horizontal surfaces for level. Typically a straight solid piece of wood or metal, or plastic, with one or multiple vials full of a liquid, and a bubble that will visually indicate if the surface is level or plumb. M Marking gauge - See various types below: Gauge butt - differs from a mortising gauge in that its spurs are at extreme ends of the beams. It can, therefore, be used in internal corners such as door jamb when gauging for the width of the hinges. It is made of steel and has three spurs. Gauge marking - made of wood or steel. The one most commonly used consists of a square, wooden bar or beam, about 8 in. long, on which a wooden block or head slides. This block can be fastened at any point of the bar by means of a brass set-screw bearing against a brass shoe. The block, on the best grade of gauge, is protected from wear by a piece of brass set flush with its surface. The bar is graduated in inches and provided with a steel point or spur fastened near the end with a screw. The spur must be filed to a fine point. This tool is used for marking or gauging widths on narrow pieces of wood, such as table legs, etc. When using it. move the gauge away from you, and tip is slightly forward, keeping the block in contact with the edge or face of the board at all times. Gauge mortising - is a marking gauge with two spurs, which can be spaced at different distances and mark two parallel lines at the same time. One type is made of rosewood and has and adjusting screw in the end of the beam, which moves one of the points up or down the as desired. The other side of the beam is fitted with a single point as an ordinary marking gauge. This gauge is used chiefly for layout out mortises and tenons. Other types are made entirely of metal and have two bars. Gauge slitting - is similar to the panel gauge, but has a handle in addition to the block. It has a knife instead of a spur and is used for cutting thin stock. Measuring tape - Used by carpenters, contractors, and architects. They are made of steel or cloth, and usually measure from 25 to 100 ft. in length. They are divided into inches and feet, or meters and centimeters. Miter box - Entry needed Miter and try-square - can be used at both 90 and 45 degrees. Miter squares can only be used for angles of 45 degrees. N Nail set - Nail sets are small steel bars about 4 to 5 in. long and 1/4" in diameter. They have a cup-shaped point, and are used to set nails below the surface. The size of the point varies with the size of the nail to be set. O P Planes - See various types below: Jack plane - A jack plane is a general-purpose woodworking bench plane, used for dressing timber down to the correct size in preparation for truing and/or edge jointing. It is usually the first plane used on rough stock, but in exceptional cases can be preceded by the scrub plane. Fore plane - The fore plane is built exactly like a jack plane, but is 18 in. long and has a plane iron 2 in. wide. Jointer plane - The jointer is also like the jack plane, but is 22 to 24 in. long, and has a plane iron 2 3/8 in. or 2 5/8 in. wide. The latter two planes are used for leveling larger surfaces and for jointing the edges of boards to be glued. Smooth plane - The smooth plane is of the same construction as the above named planes, but it is shorter, being from 5 1/2 in. to 10 in. in length. Circular plane - The circular plane differs from the others in that it has a flexible bottom 10 in. long, which can be adjusted to either convex or concave curves. It is used on curved work, such as round table tops and aprons. Block plane - The block plane is a small plane from 4 to 8 in. long. It has only a single plane iron, which is placed at a very low angle with the beveled side up. The lever cap is generally curved so that it fits smoothly within the hollow of the hand. This plane is used for planing end wood and in places where an ordinary plane could not be used. Bullnose plane - The bullnose rabbet plane is about 4 in. long, and has the plane iron fastened to the extreme front of the body. Rabbet and Fillister plane - The rabbet and fillister plane is an iron plane used for planing grooves or rabbets on the edges of a board. It has both a depth and a width gauge, as well as a spur, which scores the wood in advance of the plane iron, thereby preventing splitting. Dado plane - A dado plane is similar to a rabbet plane, but is used for cutting across the grain. Match plane - A matching plane is used for matching boards; i.e., plowing a groove on the edge of one and a tongue on the edge of the other. It has two cutters, a plow and a tongue cutter. Router plane - The router plane is used for removing the wood between two sawed or chiseled edges such as dadoes or grooves. The plane iron is lowered after each cut. It is furnished with a 1/4 in., a 2 1/5 in., and a smoothing cutter. Universal plane - The universal plane is a very complicated piece of apparatus for planing moldings, dadoes, beads, flutes, etc. It is furnished with as many as 53 different cutters. Molding planes - Molding planes are wooden planes, having but one plane iron for one particular type of molding. Wooden planes of all types are still used a great deal, especially by European cabinetmakers and carpenters. The inexperienced worker finds them more difficult to adjust, but they have certain advantages over the iron planes. One of these is lighter weight, which is especially noticeable on jointer planes, and another is that shavings from resinous woods do not stick to their bottoms. Plane gauge - Plane gauges are made both for iron and wooden planes. They can be attached to the sides of smooth, jack, fore, or jointer planes, and enable the operator to plane bevels or chamfers of any angle on the edge of a board without the continuous use of a bevel or try-square. Plumb bob - A plumb bob, or plummet, is a weight, usually with a pointed tip on the bottom, suspended from a string and used as a vertical reference line, or plumb-line. It is essentially the vertical equivalent of a "water level". Q R Rasps - See various types below: Wood - Metal - Ceramic and Glass - Rifflers - See various types below: Die sinker - Silversmith - Rule - Rules are made in different lengths and of different materials. Those used by woodworkers are usually of the folding type, and measure from 2 to 8 feet in length. Rules are generally marked off on both sides in inches and subdivisions of an inch, but they are also made with such divisions on one side and metric divisions on the other. S Scraper - Scrapers are of two kinds; those sharpened like a plane iron and held in an iron frame or plane body, and those that have square edges and are held in the hand only. The first class is called ''cabinet scrapers" or "scraper planes," and the last type is called "hand scrapers." Hand scrapers having curved edges are called "molding scrapers." Scrapers are used for smoothing a surface after it has been planed. Cross-grained and highly figured woods must always be scraped. Card Scraper - A card scraper is a woodworking shaping and finishing tool. It is used to manually remove small amounts of material and excels in tricky grain areas where hand planes would cause tear out. Card scrapers are most suitable for working with hardwoods, and can be used instead of sandpaper. Scraping produces a cleaner surface than sanding; it does not clog the pores of the wood with dust, and does not leave a fuzz of torn fibers, as even the finest abrasives will do. Screwdriver - A screwdriver is a tool, manual or powered, for screwing and unscrewing screws. A typical simple screwdriver has a handle and a shaft, ending in a tip the user puts into the screw head before turning the handle. The shaft is usually made of tough steel to resist bending or twisting. The screwdriver, which began to appear regularly on the woodworker's bench after 1800, did not share the long evolution and tradition of other Anglo-American tool designs. The screwdriver in its early versions frequently had a scalloped blade for no other purpose than decoration. See various types below: Phillips - In the early 1930s, the Phillips head screw was invented by Henry Phillips. Automobile manufacturers now used car assembly lines. They needed screws that could take greater torque and could provide tighter fastenings. The Phillips head screw was compatible with the automated screwdrivers used in assembly line. Slotted - Around the first century CE, screw-shaped tools became common, however, historians do not know who invented the first. Early screws were made from wood and were used in wine presses, olive oil presses, and for pressing clothes. Metal screws and nuts used to fasten two objects together first appeared in the fifteenth century. The heads on these types of screws have one slot for the driver to engage. Shave horse - A shaving horse is a combination of vice and workbench, used for green woodworking. Typical usage of the shaving horse is to create a round profile along a square piece, such as for a chair leg or to prepare a work piece for the pole lathe. They are used in crafts such as coopering and bowery. Sliding T bevel - are similar to try-squares, but differ in that their blades are adjustable to any angle. They are used for laying out angles other than right angles, as for instance, corners braces, dovetails, or side rails for chairs. Spoke shave - The spokeshave is like a plane with a very short bottom. It is, therefore, suitable for smoothing curves that are too small for a circular spokeshave plane. Spokeshaves are made in many patterns, generally with an iron body. One type, the patternmaker's spokeshave, is made of wood. Saw - In woodworking and carpentry, hand saws are used to cut pieces of wood into different shapes. This is usually done in order to join the pieces together. They usually operate by having a series of sharp points of some substance that is harder than the wood being cut. See various types below: Back saw - A back saw is any saw that that thick metal rib on the opposing edge of the cutting edge. The purpose is to stiffen the blade and to provide better control of the cut. Bow saw - A modern bow saw is a metal-framed crosscut saw in the shape of a bow with a coarse wide blade. This type of saw is also known as a Swede saw, Finn saw or bucksaw. It is a rough tool that can be used for cross-cutting branches or firewood, up to six inches (150 mm) in diameter. The name 'Swede saw' probably derived from the ovate metal tubular frame version, invented in the 1920s by the Swedish company Sandvikens Jernverk, and additional patents by two Swedish immigrants to the US. Modern versions all share those common features. 11 Buck saw - Coping saw - Cross cut saw - Dovetail saw - Fret saw - Hacksaw - Japanese saw - Keyhole saw - Rip saw - Turning saw - Veneer saw - T Trammel points - Try-square - Used for testing the squareness of lumber, and in checking the squareness of work being assembled, especially in places where a framing square would be too large. Try-squares consist of two parts, the stock and the blade, which are firmly fastened together at right angles. The stock is thick and made of wood or iron. The blade, which is thin, is made of steel and has an inch scale stamped on it. Try-squares are made in sizes from 4 to 12 in., measured from the end of the blade to the stock. U V W X Y Z
  20. That's the same philosophy chair makers have, specifically Windsor makers, the wood can take away from the design of the Windsor and they are and were more often than not, painted.
  21. And that's my favorite one! Just goes to show ya Lew, in the eyes of the beholder. But I've always liked slender necks in the female human, long and graceful, so there is that I had not thought about it before now, but I would think wood selection should have much to do with how a shape or form is viewed, is there a shade of wood that is more forgiving to the eye, that would look more pleasing with certain forms, than other shades? For example, I dunno, the vase on the left for me would look very attractive if it was turned from Walnut, or some other dark lumber species. Just throwing that out there.
  22. I'm just trying to understand which part Keith is talking about, is it the long brass or the end caps?
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