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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/06/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Cal

    One bedroom completed!

    Well, almost anyhow. I shared a couple pics of the dormer work done earlier in the spring. The rest of the job fought me every step of the way. The floor was very uneven, ceiling texture would not stick uniformly, even the paint would not roll on the walls in a good fashion. But I stuck with it. Herewith, a couple before and after pics. Hopefully you will be able to tell which is which! Cal
  2. 4 points
    Cal

    First attempt

    I like it Herb. I might suggest a smaller hand, though. This one doesn't point to the day of the week, it points to the open space border. Cal
  3. 3 points
    Dadio

    First attempt

    Here is the first attempt at the 7-day clock, this is the mock-up for the real thing ,this one is made of a cedar stud. what do you think? is the face OK? is there too much white around the face? Does the black hand look too clunky? Should it be a different color hand? Herb
  4. 3 points
    Stick486

    Wood Swimmer

    Found this on another forum... thought you may enjoy it...
  5. 3 points
    oldwoodie

    On that Dap free give away samples

    I got one, placed it with my other glues for about three weeks. Today, my daughter brought a spin mop that the handle had come apart, and it looked like a piece that fallen out. I used the Dap glue to put it back together. As I went to put the bottle back, I looked at the ingredients on the label. Low and behold, it is super glue! Isn't that what cynaoacralate is? So, now where are we with this stuff? Is it gonna be what we need for gluing long lasting joints?
  6. 3 points
    Gene Howe

    On that Dap free give away samples

    It's handy but won't replace TBII in my shop.
  7. 3 points
    PostalTom

    First attempt

    I especially like the way the grain wraps around on the frame. This attention to detail on what you described as an prototype tells me your "production" models will be spectacular. One question. Where did you get a seven day movement like that? Klockit maybe?
  8. 3 points
    Grandpadave52

    First attempt

    Since you asked Herb...I agree with Kelly & Cal...to me the hand just seems to be disproportional to the face and the lettering. A thinner body and shorter wold be less overwhelming IMO...if you could find one with a brass or bronze border &/or stripe in the center would complement the clock face too I think... The only other thing which seems out of place to me is all of those days...I just don't seem to recall all those days in one week. Anyways, very cool idea and great overall design. It's going to make great gifts this year!!
  9. 3 points
    lew

    What to do with a...

    Usually there are so many interruptions I can barely get a train of thought started. The only time I refuse to be bothered is when doing a glue-up. During that time even the "Rapture" can wait.
  10. 3 points
    steven newman

    What to do with a...

    Did you ever lose track of time in the shop? Next thing I knew, it was suppertime? Just the Highlights from today's shoptime follies.. Ok...had to shut down and restart the computer, and do a full scan....GrandBRAT been on it again...Grrrr As for that crooked joint? We have ways. . Just until the glue dries. I got the last of the web-frames done today... Stacked the two sides together,....hmmm Hmm, bandsaw to hog most of that extra off....clamp the two sides together again. Set the mess up in the vise at the bench. Planes to remove the saw marks.. Set one side off out of the way....and make a rebate for the plywood back to sit in.. Had to make this one a stopped rebate, used a mallet and chisel to get what the Stanley 45 could not. Got both rebates done, decided to start adding web-frames. Brought a Walnut plank down to the shop, to get the "set-back" needed for the front of the frames, then glue and screws.. Squares to make sure things go in square to the sides.. When I flipped this over onto the other side...not everything lined up.....clamps to pull tings back, cussing, a shim for the top frame..cussing....squares everywhere...cussing...finally got all the frames to where they needed to be....and then set this mess down on it's own four feet.. Had to glue and screw a shim at one end of the top frame ( compost happens) Decided to find out how long a piece of walnut to cut....to make trim pieces...Laid out two cut lines, and...how to cut this thing? The D-8 crosscut saw I had sent out to be sharpened a while back. ( couldn't get to the circular saw..) Had to joint a straight edge on one edge of the three boards...yes, I got three planks from two cuts.. Forgot how bad Walnut smells when cut...anyway, needed the straight edge because I needed to resaw these down a bit Will need to joint those edges, cut a dovetail on each end, once I figure out how long to make these face frame parts. I think these will wait for another day......almost 5 straight hours in the shop, today.....I think. Stopped for suppertime....and closed up the shop. Maybe I can get a little bit done, tomorrow? Stay tuned to this Batty Channel
  11. 2 points
    Fastback

    Today's tool buy

    Cal, I just wanted to see if you were paying attention Actually, I was born in 49 so..... I am almost afraid to look at that auction, I think that part of my problem with tool is I look at them and think I can fix that. I may as well put all my equipment to use. Paul
  12. 2 points
    HandyDan

    Conundrum

    Conundrum The definition of the word Conundrum is: something that is puzzling or confusing. Free people are not equal. Equal people are not free. (Think this one over and over... makes sense!) "A gun is like a parachute. If you need one, and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.” Here are six Conundrums of socialism in the United States of America: 1. America is capitalist and greedy - yet half of the population is subsidized. 2. Half of the population is subsidized - yet they think they are victims. 3. They think they are victims - yet their representatives run the government. 4. Their representatives run the government - yet the poor keep getting poorer. 5. The poor keep getting poorer - yet they have things that people in other countries only dream about. 6. They have things that people in other countries only dream about - yet they want America to be more like those other countries. Think about it! And that, my friends, pretty much sums up the USA in the 21st Century. Makes you wonder who is doing the math.
  13. 2 points
    Ron Dudelston

    First attempt

    I wouldn't change a thing Herb. It looks great. I'm with Gene though. How did you get the tight miters?
  14. 2 points
    Grandpadave52

    What to do with a...

    Looking great so far and really taking shape. You've made some amazing things since I've been on-board here, but I think you're about to outdo yourself on this one... And you sure ain't been all thumbs on it either!
  15. 2 points
    Smallpatch

    First attempt

    Herb the most important part of you project is what did you think when you finished it...Hey when I finish something and I am pleased how it turned out...........Thats it right there. I have to please me first of all. Wife and everybody else don't know squat....And after looking things over I know if I did this and that and changed whatever it MIGHT look better or probably would look worse but I always consider the first one is the goat.
  16. 2 points
    Gene Howe

    First attempt

    No suggestions from here. I like it. Gee, how'd you get those tight miters?
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    DAB

    First attempt

    everyday is saturday to me. or sunday. whatever.
  19. 2 points
    Fastback

    Today's tool buy

    You guys are right I am a tool alcoholic and can't quit. Do they have a TAA? I really need it. I am starting to do it with everything. For example, I started playing a little guitar thinking that it would help my brain. Well I now own 14 and I also have 6 amps. I did sell a few and need to think about selling some more. I also have 4 garden tractors and 1 small loader/backhoe. As for space, I guess I do have more then average sometimes it is good and sometimes not. Hey anybody know of any good tool deals. Oh, I just remembered that I still have a Simplicity garden tractor I bought at age 16 (1965). The tractor was used a 1953 model. I am the second owner. I have been married going on 42 years, but only one wife and she has a lot of patients with me. Paul
  20. 1 point
    kmealy

    TGIF: Waterborne Finishes August 1, 2017

    Today we look at one of the newer types of common finish – waterborne or water-based finishes. The Product Waterborne finishes are acrylic and maybe some urethane resins. Acrylic is a different resin than in oil, oil-based varnish, shellac, or lacquer. Flexner calls this a “soccer ball” finish. The (relatively) large droplets of resin are thinned with water and the surfaces are softened and get sticky with glycol ethers. As the finish dries/cures, first the water evaporates, then the glycol ethers. The droplets coalesce together and bond and harden as the thinner and solvent dry. Unfortunately, like many finishing products, the labels can be misleading. You will find them labeled water based polyurethane, Clear Wood Finish, small text indicating “water based” (instead of “oil-based”), water-based lacquer, water-based top coat, water-borne urethane, acrylic urethane, oil-modified urethane, ultimate polyurethane, no odor poly, or just some trade name (e.g., Polycrylic, Cabothane, and Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane, the water- but not the oil-based version, Valspar Zenith Waterborne Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer). They, as a class, are just different animals and the labels might lead you to think otherwise. About the only clue that some of them are a waterborne finish is “cleans up with water” in the directions See the difference here? (Hint: look for the fine print) . (photo credit: Popular Woodworking Magazine) (photo credit: Deft) When waterborne finishes first came out they were pretty awful. They have matured a lot in the last few decades, and they continue to improve. There are only a few manufacturers of the raw materials and more companies formulate them into finishes. So they do share improvements, but don’t all behave the same and you might have to try different brands to find one you like. Some work better for spraying and some for brushing. Some are KCMA certified for kitchen cabinets (resist damage from common kitchen substances). Waterborne finishes may be the only choice for you if you live in an area with strict VOC laws. Waterborne finishes have been slow to catch on in commercial work. But some manufacturers of furniture and cabinetry are moving to it. It’s become more common with wood floor finishes, even a version to refresh an existing finish, probably because it dries quicker and has less odor. The water does not dissolve anything, it merely thins the product and is miscible with glycol ethers. Characteristics Waterborne finishes fit in characteristics between shellac, lacquer and oil-based varnishes in several attributes. A little harder than varnishes, not quite as hard as lacquer and shellac. You can easily rub them out to change the sheen level, though. Less resistant to chemicals (solvents, water, acid, alkali) than varnishes, but more than lacquer and shellac. Faster drying than oil-based varnishes, but a bit slower than lacquer and shellac. Like some lacquers, may be pre-catalyzed. Bonds with fresh lower coats (“burns in” as the glycol ethers soften the surface a bit) less than lacquer and shellac, but better than varnishes. Like varnish, it won’t re-dissolve in its thinner, water, once cured; unlike shellac or lacquer that will re-dissolve in their solvent. While not totally “non-toxic” in the liquid state, they do have relatively low odor and are more suitable for spraying in a residence than lacquers. They are often called EF - environmental friendly. In the liquid state, these products are emulsions – things that don’t go together (resins and water) but are forced to. Sort of like fats and water in milk. When liquid they have a milky white appearance, but are clear when cured. A varnish, lacquer or shellac contains a few component products and for example, you can thin varnishes or shellac in any proportion you want, or even add linseed oil to a varnish to make an oil-varnish blend. Waterborne finishes contain up to 20 different products in a delicate balance and you can’t just add 25% more water without upsetting the balance and the product. Some manufacturers make a special additive if you need to thin the product. To get the product to emulsify, they add surfactants (what detergents do, break down surface tension to permit emulsification). When they do that, it causes them to foam, so they add anti-foaming agents, and so on. They lack the typical “amber” look that we have become familiar with varnishes, shellac, and lacquers. So they can look “cool” or even blue to our eyes. Some manufacturers add some dye to improve this, some do not. But they don’t tell you this. You can warm up the tone by buying a product with dye added, add a few drops of your own water-miscible dye, applying a coat or two of dewaxed shellac first, or staining the wood to begin with. General Finishes says you can just add their water-based dye stains directly into their water-based finish products. The clear color is an advantage if you are doing a lighter color such as a pickled finish or paint with glaze that you need to top coat. You don’t want either of them to yellow out. (photo credit: Minwax) Sorry about the misleading "some polys" (photo credit: Pinterest) Waterborne finishes work best over water-based stains (dyes or pigments). If you use an oil based stain, you may have compatibility/adhesion problems. If you must use them, allow lots of time for the oil-based stain to dry/cure and for insurance, apply a barrier coat of shellac. To be really sure, run a trial and to a scratch adhesion test on scrap.(1) Sometimes, the manufacturers will tell you if they are compatible with their oil-based stains. Because of the water content, these finishes will raise the grain. Some people “pre-raise” the grain by wetting, letting surface dry, then sanding. The grain may or may not raise again after application, so I just sand off the raised grain after the first coat. The finish raises and stiffens the grain, making it easy to sand smooth. Waterborne finishes are a bit more temperature sensitive than other finishes. You really need to have 65 degrees or warmer, both during application and for a while thereafter. So this might rule out garage finishing in the winter. The product, while dry and usable soon, continues to coalesce for about 3 weeks. (So do varnishes, BTW). So if you do run the heater in the garage or shop while applying, bring the pieces back in the house before turning the heat off. Don’t store these finishes where they will freeze. Pros: · Fast drying, 30-120 minutes or so, depending on temperature and humidity. Can usually do 3-4 coats in a day and be done. · Very fast application when spraying · Color usually clear (an advantage when you don't want to add amber) · No noxious fumes, contain much less solvent and VOC · Non-flammable · No lingering smell so perfect for insides of boxes and cabinets · Easy clean up, no solvents needed (well, water is technically a solvent, but you know what I mean) · Good abrasion resistance Cons · Lacks amber tone and adding depth to wood surface (when you want that) · Somewhat shorter shelf life, several years. · Temperature sensitive during curing · Raises grain first coat or two · Brands can behave differently – find one you like. Application I find the first coat will raise the grain a little bit. So I sand after it’s dried and has stiffened the fibers up (“burying the grain.”). You need to sand between the coats. I use a P400 stearated sandpaper (3M’s 216U, AKA Sandblaster) for cutting high spots and a ScotchBrite maroon or light gray pad to overall dull. Do not use steel wool or you can end with a finish polka-dotted with rust spots. Wipe off the dust with a rag dampened in water. The finish can get “globs” from around the edge of the can or just exposure. Stir the product well, then run through a finish strainer before use. Like varnish, put the product in a separate container that you spray or brush from. Stir, don’t shake, Mr. Bond. (photo credit: Popular Woodworking) Avoid getting the finish on too thick. The product’s “technical data sheet”, when available,will tell you the “wet mil” thickness (the wet finish’s thickness in 0.001”) (2) Like most finishes, there are three ways to apply waterborne finish. Spray Spray on coats overlapping half as you go. I will say, these finishes can look terrible right after application. Don’t be tempted to keep adding more. “Spray and go away.” They will flow out well and look great in a few minutes. You can leave the finish in the spray gun if you are going to add another coat in an hour or so. But do clean your gun, including disassembly when done for the day. Spraying is the way I like to do it, with an HVLP sprayer. Brush Condition your brush before using by wetting with water and shaking out the excess. Since the product is fast-drying, don’t keep going over the same spot or the finish tends to “tear” when partially cured. Get it on and get off it. There are several options with brushes. To use a bristle brush, choose a synthetic bristle as natural bristles get flabby when wet. Some people put the toe of a nylon stocking over the bristles to get it to flow on well. Put on in long strokes like you would any of the other finishes. You can also use a disposable foam brush. These tend to reduce some of the foaming. Another option is a painter’s pad like used for edge trimming. This works like a short-bristled, wide and long brush with a foam reservoir. Clean up any of these with soap and water after use, rinse well, and let dry. Cloth There are some waterborne finishes that are made for wiping but generally used in touch up business as they don’t build very fast. Mohawk’s “Finish Up” is one example. Some people say you can thin 10% with water and wipe. Might work, might not, depending on brand. Might upset the chemistry balance. Fixing Goofs Drips and runs - Let them harden, sand or scrape level and apply another application. Apply lighter, even coats. Brush marks – sand out and apply thinner coats, apply in a pass or two, then don’t keep brushing the same spots. Or change brands as the one you are using might work better for spraying. Bubbles - don’t shake the finish, stir it. Globs of finish in the surface or on your brush or gun– strain the finish before applying. In summary, I will say that when I was doing stripping and refinishing as part of my business, I used waterborne finishes in all cases of clear finishes. And in all but one case (because of its size only), I sprayed, even on-site kitchen cabinets and doors. A friend who runs a custom furniture shop also uses them to avoid issues with EPA, insurance, and OSHA. Further reading: (1) Scratch adhesion test - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_adhesion_testing#Test_Method_B (2) Wet mil gauge https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ch11gPhqiG8 https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/waterborne-finishes http://www.rockler.com/how-to/waterborne-wood-finish-basics/ https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&ved=0ahUKEwjT7a-K26zVAhXL4SYKHYNjBZUQFghPMAY&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ronbryze.com%2Fwaterborne%2FAllAboutWaterborne_C.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFV-2hHHrQuH1jiLcUZy_rFPvgzfw
  21. 1 point
    Smallpatch

    Never ever use gas

    Being an ex fire fighter I have seen many times people would just use a really small amount of gas, or else thats what they claimed. I only used this much, was their answer after they got out of the emergency room and went home to find something of value had burned. Many times it was their house or garage or their shop but using gas is a no no. And women sometimes use gas in their sink to clean greasy clothes before putting them in the washer, another no no. Just sitting here thinking about some of the dumb things that happened while being a fire fighter. Men pouring gas down the carburetor of their car trying to get it started after over hauling the motor but forgot and didn't reinstall the air breather before turning the starter over. Many times way too much gas was used and when the motor backfired it shot out flaming gas all over and burned lots of cars and garages and the guy holding the gas can.......Or kids walking home from school down the alleys and that happens to be where the dumpsters sit.... They run in dads garage and grabs a can full of gas and goes and dumps some in the dumpster and lights it. After they got fixed up at the emergency room and got home they told us the reasons why they did things like this, the biggest reason was they like to see the fire trucks put out fires or they just like to see things burn.. Another reason was to prove to their buddy they knew how their neighbors dumpster was all warped out of shape and rusty. If people would just think how small of a spark close to a very small amount of gasoline it takes to make a motor run, just might keep lots of fire trucks from running up and down the streets.
  22. 1 point
    Fastback

    Today's tool buy

    The weather is a bit unsettling right now we have high humidity and it has rained off and on. So I did work on the saw this afternoon. I also took some more pictures. Now I realize that this is not a machining site, but since the work is on tools I thought you folks would not mind. I am at the point that I need to do some boring so I can recess the the nut and bolt. Maybe I can do that tomorrow. Anyway her are a few additional pictures. As you can see in picture 2 the new part fits. I noticed a very slight crack in the housing when I was boring the table so I did not do too tight a fit with the part. Maybe the new part can be TIG welded. Paul
  23. 1 point
    Grandpadave52

    What to do with a...

    Whew! I can't imagine how much you'd get done if your thumb was banged up and you weren't documenting the build along the way! I thought I accomplished a lot today, but I think you still out did me... I gotta start drinking more Mountain Dew!
  24. 1 point
    Gene Howe

    Euro Hinges

    Over the years, I've built a good number of cabinets and like casework. Since the late eighties, Blum is all I've ever used. Even used their under mount drawer glides a few times. As easy as the hinges are to install, you'd think the glides would be a breeze. Not so! I found them to be a royal PITA. They sure are smooth, though. And, the self closing feature is a real plus.
  25. 1 point
    lew

    FEWTEL - sequence of stock preparation.

    I thought the same thing!

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