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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/03/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    John Morris

    Surveyor's Crew Truck Equipment Box

    Started Truck Box number 2 today. I wish our company would get another lumber supplier account, we only have Home Depot, and the ply there, sucks. First box in OP I tried this crud called Sanded Ply from China. Upon close observation the stuff looked pretty tight, thin ply's, no voids, but when trying to screw into the end of the ply like a simple butt joint, you could hear the ply's separating just ripping apart, so I had to pre-drill every thing and take it really slow. The second box, I tried a different ply, 10 bucks more per sheet, appears ok at first, I don't like the few thick ply's it has, but hey, it looked pretty decent, until I started peeling the sheets off from the stack I have in my shop, then the voids and cracks became apparent, crap! This stuff is sold at Home Depot, and imported from Ecuador, it's crap, stay away from it for any type of finish work, and the stuff costs 40 bucks a sheet. Big thick ply's, I don't like this. You can just see the crappy veneer peeling away by just looking at it. Look at the porous ply's. Starting going through the stack, and some were like this, cracks and putty fills for voids. Just absolute crap. But, the stuff screwed together really well, surprisingly, no cracks upon screw entry, no pre-drilling needed, thank goodness. The stuff actually felt kind of rubbery, but held the screws really well. For this truck box I put my PC 690 away and brought out my big gun, my 7518 with my straight edge, went through it like butter, nice clean dado's. I have straightedges for my routers and my worm drive saw, zero clearance to the cut line, just set the edge on the line, and cut, no brainer. I had 12 sheets of ply in the back, I unloaded half and left the rest in and pulled them out as needed, each sheet was cut to 6' as that is the length of the box, I just cross cut in place and slid it to the bench for the dado's or the table saw. The straight edge, again is a zero set to line, I used this one for my doors when I was installing a ton of doors on the side, I had a 36" straight edge for cutting the door bottoms off, and a 48" for wider doors, I don't know where my 36" went, been awhile since I installed doors, but I still have my 48" handy, good thing. I started this box today around 12 noon, should finish it tomorrow by lunch, and I'll deliver to the job.
  2. 4 points
    Ron Dudelston

    An Update on Me

    But I still don't look good in spandex, John.
  3. 3 points
    Gene Howe

    An Update on Me

    Very few women and no man looks good in spandex.
  4. 3 points
    Fred W. Hargis Jr

    Virutex Biscuit joiner

    one of those "snooze you lose" things, huh?
  5. 3 points
    John Morris

    An Update on Me

    Ron, we've talked on and off about this and I am just absolutely thrilled for ya, this is unbelievable how you bounced back, and with just diet and exercise! So proud of ya ol codger, way to goooo!
  6. 3 points
    John Morris

    What's On Your Work Bench?

    Just a bunch of non sense. Making another truck box, and it's a nice 96 degrees in the old shop. I'm done! Time to drop my bags and roll it up!
  7. 2 points
    Gene Howe

    Surveyor's Crew Truck Equipment Box

    I'm baffled as to the market for the crappy plywood sold by the big box stores. Who buys the stuff?
  8. 2 points
    Fred W. Hargis Jr

    An Update on Me

    or Speedo s I would imagine.
  9. 2 points
    It Was Al B

    BIll Pentz Checking In

    Hi Bill, I don't believe I got to invite you aboard,so I'll belatedly say welcome aboard. I share your grief with the loss of an old friend. Getting older does have its negatives, as your friends pass on, and suddenly you find that your old friends are only memories. Sure, you make new friends along the road but those long time friendships from years past hold special memories.
  10. 2 points
    Snork! Snork, Snork! Snork, snork, snork! Quit it...my nose hurts!! Just curious John, overall how did you really feel about this plywood versus the previous stuff?Maybe should have been ground up and made into toilet paper?
  11. 2 points
    If you think carbide router bits are delicate creatures, check out this Youtube video from Tom Lipton, a machinist in the San Francisco area. The interesting part starts at about 8:45 and goes to the end. Yep, it grabbed me by the short hairs too! NOTE: NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART! But certainly educational. Jon-439 (from the WOOD Magazine forums)
  12. 2 points

    Are router bits delicate creatures?

    one thing about dry solid film lubricants is that when you apply them and think that you didn't apply enough you probably applied too much.. very very little goes a loooooooooooooooong way... wait till you do the arbor mechanism w/ dry lube.. you and your saw will never be the same... just thoroughly clean it before lubing.. great release agent too... extend the life of your tooling.. Dry Film Lubricants are high performance coatings made up of very fine particles of lubricating agents blended with binders and other special additives. Once cured, these lubricating agents bond to the part surface as a solid film which reduces galling, seizing and fretting and protects against corrosion. Through the combination of these properties, dry film lubricants greatly improve the wear life of coated parts. Dry film/solid film lubricants allow for operating pressures above the load-bearing capacity of normal greases and oils. They are also less prone to collecting soil particulates than greases and oils. In some applications, the coating is self-burnishing, leading to improved, rather than decreased, performance over time. Some blends of dry film/solid film lubricants are also temperature and chemical resistant allowing for their use in harsh environments such as jet engines where exposure to aviation fuel and extreme temperatures are the norm.
  13. 2 points

    Are router bits delicate creatures?

    WD is a mistake... it's a wet something that attracts all kinds of trash.. does more harm than good in the scheme of things... makes for a humongous mess and if it gets into the tool kiss the router goodby.. prone to flash fire and really doesn't work all that well but it's convenient... I am real partial to Triflow... most any dry lube will work providing it's has Teflon/PFTE... [higher percentage by volume is more gooder]... CRC, Tiolube, KG and DuPont have several most excellent industrial spec DRY SOLID FILM lubricants.. criteria - dries dry to the touch, high pressure load bearing, contains Teflon/PFTE, barrier forming. extreme temperature range, [usually -100 to +500F] isn't hygroscopic, does not collect dirt, not flammable in dry state, chemical resistant, no silicone, long list of compatibilities and is really long lasting.. or any or all of the features WD hasn't got....
  14. 2 points


    This is an area I know a bit about. Hopefully my post is not too late for this thread. What I have to share will probably anger many, it did me as well. First, most available woodworking respirator masks work poorly. I found my Trend Air Shield and Air Shield Pro, my Triton, and even my older Racal Pro all came with fine filters that freely passed the unhealthiest finest (less than 2-micron sized) particles. Only my better 3M units had ample filters. Only my Racal and 3M had good enough seals. None had very good batteries until I swapped out what they came with and built a new pack with high amperage hour removable separately chargeable cells. I only liked the 3M and Racal blowers, as the rest gave poor airflow especially as the filters dirtied. Second, fine wood dust lasts nearly forever unless it gets wet and with every 20 pounds of sawdust, we also make enough fine dust to cause 15,119 typical two-car garage sized shops to fail an EPA air quality test. This is why Cal-OSHA testing found most small shops that vent inside have so much built up fine invisible dust that just walking around without doing any more woodworking launches enough fine dust to fail an EPA air quality test. At the OSHA measured fine dust levels most small shop workers who vent inside breathe in more fine dust in a couple of hours than most full woodworkers who work in facilities that vent outside get in months. Third, I oversaw quite a bit of serious testing of almost every major brand of shop vacuum, air cleaner, dust collector and cyclone based dust collection system. That testing showed that the prior OSHA testing was pretty accurate in almost all come with far too open fine filters and lack the airflow needed for good collection. On average most small shop dust collectors and cyclone miss collecting over 15% of the fine dust we make. With woodworking making far too much fine dust this is bad news. Finally, good collection can be tough and expensive, but good protection is fairly easy and affordable. The best protection is to wear a good properly fit NIOSH approved respirator mask with dual HEPA quality cartridges and work outside or with our main doors open a bit and a strong fan blowing out a side door or window to create a good airflow through our shops to keep the fine dust from building. Our particle counters show for best protection we need to put on our respirator mask and start venting our shop before we start making fine dust and both the mask and fan need to stay on for about a half hour after we stop making fine dust.
  15. 1 point
    TGIF : Thank Goodness I’m Finishing Welcome to the inaugural issue of posts on finishing. Hoping to improve the 20:1 ratio of general to finishing posts here and share some good information. Why do people fear and avoid finishing? I think it’s because we don’t understand it. And after we’ve spent a good deal of time building a project, we just want to get it done.Three months building a project and we want to finish it in two days. What makes it so hard to understand? 1. It’s chemistry, not physics. You can tell if your wood is 6 inches wide, mortise and tenon joint is tight, a lump in your curve, or if there are gaps in your dovetails. It’s hard to tell what chemical reaction is happening when you apply a finish come back the next day and it's dry. Why some things are soluble in others or not. Why does alcohol thin shellac but later alcohol dissolves it. but mineral spirits thins varnish but not dissolve it? 2. The manufacturers, videos, and written information is either misleading, missing, wrong, or a persistent myth. Why can you buy five different products called “tung oil” yet none of them apply or behave the same? Because they are all different products. How can polyurethane and water-based polyurethane be and look so different? Yet, polyurethane and alkyd varnish be so similar? Why does spar urethane that’s supposed to be an outdoor finish perform so poorly? Why is a product called “Wood Finish” not a finish, but a stain, and why might it be a dye, a pigment, or even both, depending on color. What’s the difference between Antique Oil, Danish Oil, Velvet Oil, ValOil and Tung oil Finish. Why are the “wood conditioner” instructions entirely contrary to its effective use? So confusing. And we have not even gotten into effective coloring and color matching. Time involvement Some of my training was from people who worked in high-end furniture manufacturers’ finish rooms. Their comment was that as much labor went into finishing as construction. And this was in the 1970-2000 period. Probably even more so now with CNC equipment where the main task is having someone in the office download a design and people on the floor just moving parts from one machine to another. When others look a piece you've made, often the first thing that catches their eye is the finish. A smooth, finish that highlights the wood, has even color and great "hand" (touch factor). They don't really know or care that that chair you made gave your a challenge with angled mortise and tenons. The finish is worth getting it right. The path to enlightenment I’ll admit 30 years ago, I was there. Confused, frustrated, and bewildered, I tried different things until I found one that worked for me – then used it on everything. Bob Flexner’s book, “Understanding Wood Finishing” in 1994 was the epiphany that I needed. I am a huge fan of his, have read a lot of his stuff, taken a class from him, and occasionally e-mail each other. If you are familiar with his work, you’ll probably see his mentorship in my work. Bob ran a restoration shop and was equally confused and frustrated with finishing in the 1980s until he did a lot of research talked to finish chemists and became a myth-buster. When I met him a few years ago, he was still frustrated that after 20+ years, there was still a lot of confusion with products and usage, mostly promulgated by writers and manufacturers. Bob has what he calls the “Half-Right Rule.” Half what you read or hear about finishing is right. You just don’t know which half. So there we have it. Let’s go on a journey. I guy I used to work with in the software industry used to say, “Nobody is born knowing this stuff – we have to learn it somewhere along the line.” Where are you? So, what’s your biggest fear / frustration in finishing? Are you a one-trick pony? What's the one finish you use for everything? Once you have some basic understanding, you may come to love finishing like I do. Well, maybe not the sanding part, but the results.
  16. 1 point
    Our big box stores just don't have it here in So Cal. But our mom and pop outfits have excellent plywood, for my own work I typically go to our local Reel Lumber which carries hardwood and good ol fashioned full 3/4" grade AAA plywood. Just wish I could get our department to open an account there.
  17. 1 point
    use a corn cob...not as dangerous...
  18. 1 point
    Ron Dudelston

    An Update on Me

    That can't be repaired, Allen.
  19. 1 point
    It Was Al B

    MWTCA May 2017 "What's It" Project

    I think Dave might have hit it on the head. I'm thinking it is a male electrical plug but surely must have been used for industrial purposes because of the 1/2 " diam. hole for the wire and the heave duty steel plates on the plug. Probably a main plug where factory machinery was all driven by belts.
  20. 1 point
    Steve Krumanaker


    Wow! If you had enough of that you could make a pecan bark canoe!!
  21. 1 point

    Wood burning

    As an update, I did a dilute vinegar rinse on the oak and and the red cedar and it seemed to work to remove the stain around the burn. But the whole thing has a slightly different color, a little less red on the cedar than the top, but it is so slight that it is not too noticeable. The Oak seems a little grayer. There must be something in the oak and cedar that reacts with the process. The maple and poplar don't seem to discolor. I did a light hand sand with 220 g. and it smoothed up nicely and didn't seem to remove any detail of the burn. On the maple and poplar I am sealing with shellac first ,then lightly sanding the nubs. Herb.
  22. 1 point
    I'm not exactly a one trick pony, and still prefer some of the old school stuff (read: solvent based finishes). But we are moving into a water borne finish world and I'm trying to adapt. The thing is that finish chemistry is seemingly moving quickly, and with the manufacturers trying to bamboozle us with the names they use it's even harder now to select a quality finish that's suited to the task at hand. It's also harder to figure some of this stuff out with the demise of the MSDS sheets, which at least offered a few clues. For example, in the past I always avoided urethane resin finishes (for my own reasons), but since Norm tuned "poly" into a magic finish the manufacturer's want to label their water borne acrylics with that magic word. Then there's the "modified oil" waterborne. I'm fairly certain that's a step up from normal acrylic waterborne finishes in durability, but trying to find what it is has been frustrating (I've seen GF Enduro Var referred to as a "modified oil" finish, and it's one I really like). I've been in touch with Flexner, who indicated the modified oil finishes aren't new, but the use is becoming more widespread, he did not tell me what exactly a modified oil finish is. Anyway, back to the question: if I had a go to finish it would be an alkyd resin varnish, preferably made with soya oil. I still have 3 unopened quarts in my stash; good thing since it's almost impossible to find anymore.
  23. 1 point

    MWTCA May 2017 "What's It" Project

    First guess it appears to be some very early form of a male electrical plug designed to "plug-in" to a receptacle; as noted maybe for a telegraph key, early telephone switch board, maybe even an electrical appliance of some sort or machine switch disconnect point. The large hole in the end would allow for a cord/cable entry with the threaded screw openings serving as termination points for stripped back wiring. Kinda' /sorta' like these...may not even be U.S. originated, but European or Australian?
  24. 1 point
    John Morris

    What's On Your Work Bench?

    I'm not sure what you mean by receipt Michael. But I can take a stab at it. You may be referring to a process used by many forums and websites, whereas a purchase is made by referral from the forum or website, and a commission is distributed to the forum or website. We do not make a commission on any referrals or clicks through this community. The reason why I contacted Laguna was to let them know you made a purchase via exposure of their brand within our community, and just to simply let them know that their sponsorship is appreciated, and their presence here is beneficial to them as well. I feel that is way more important than a commission. They love to hear that folks like yourself are viewing their product because of their presence here. And I personally appreciate your patronage to one of our sponsors. Thanks again @Michael Thuman!!
  25. 1 point
    John Morris

    What's On Your Work Bench?

    I'll respectfully disagree Stick, these rockers were production runs in the Shaker community, especially this rocker, it's a Transitional rocker because it is the first rocker they made mass produced by belt driven power, they made these chairs by the hundreds, they did not custom fit the rockers by moving them forward, or back, there was a set of templates they built from, and they did not deviate. I have looked in the chair building books I have for the Shaker rockers and I have yet to see anywhere where an author of any book states the rockers need to be custom placed, or tested before pinning. There is a set distance the nose of the rocker sits from the front of the leg bottom edge, there is no test placement, nor any question where the rocker goes. In my own experience with the Maloof style sculpted rockers I have built over the years, there is a fixed location that the rockers set to the bottom of the legs, as well with that design, I have yet to read where any author or builder states you need to test drive the chair for rocker placement. I never did test drive those rockers either and they all rocked fine and still do to this day with no complaints. Now, if you want to design a rocker, I'm with you, it has to be tested, and tried, before a final placement for the rocker can be determined, but once that rocker location is determined, the "sweet spot" as you say, does not change.

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