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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

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  2. ... Do like we do. Don't like one weather report switch the channel and watch another. Usually around here though none of them are correct, the only way to make sure is stick your head out the door.
  3. That is a lot of work, it took me quite some time to look through all those pictures and the details entailed in them. Excellent work and attention to the finest of details. I aspire to be this skilled one day, but today my friend is NOT that day.
  4. Yup, same here. All this technology for weather forecasting and your best bet is a rock tied to a string hanging in the garden.
  5. My only real experience with carving green wood was with a USMC issued K-Bar. It was sharp, the scary sharp kind. At the time I didn't get real fancy, I was kinda rushed for those particular projects and quality was not high on the list either. More of function over form was my mantra. Pictures, ummm, well, at the time pictures were, umm. Okay, okay, so I was sharpening the ends of sticks for some booby traps.
  6. It's time for the drawers. Once again there is a challenge. The design calls for drawer fronts that stretch across the front without being broken by drawer dividers. In other words, "lipped drawers". There are two ways to do this. The easy way is to used "planted fronts", that is, attached fronts to the front of a box ... The hard way is to make the drawer front a single piece. This requires rebating the drawer front and forming a half blind dovetail in the side of the rebate. Courtesy of Christian Becksvoort ... I've chosen the high road (sigh). Today I spent my time preparing for three drawers. Why three and not two, as in the original design? Simply because I can build them narrower, and this will make them less likely to rack. They'll end up somewhere around 280mm wide and 290mm deep. I anticipated that 375mm wide and 290mm deep would be a disaster waiting to happen. The only way drawers that dimension could work is on runners, which I do not do. The wood for the drawer front is more Fiddleback Jarrah (by request), while the remainder of the drawer is quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak (which is actually a Eucalyptus, and is quite unstable unless quarter sawn. I keep a stock for drawers). It is a lot like US White Oak in appearance and hardness. I have a bunch of narrower boards, which I re-sawed to make 7mm thick drawer sides, and glued together two to get the height needed ... No clamps, just blue painter's tape, which is stretched across. It pulls the edges together. This is enough for 4 drawer sides (one spare) ... The drawer bottoms will be 1/4" (6.35mm) thick ..... I cannot go metric here as my plough blade is imperial .... this is re-sawn from a wide board, which saves some effort as only two boards are needed for the bottoms (the grain runs across the drawer) ... Same trick with the blue tape, and cauls are also added to keep it flat. This will be sawn up at the time it is needed, and the panel will remain in the cauls until thn. The narrow drawer sides necessitate using drawer slips, which is a strip added to the sides with a groove for the drawer bottom. This also adds extra width as a runner. The slips are made with a plough plane. In this case, I used both a Veritas Small Plow (to plough the groove) and the Veritas Combination Plow (to plough a bead - the bead lies at the join of the slip and drawer bottom). Setting up both save time switching set ups back and forth, and once begun, making these slips was a quick process ... First plough the bead ... A tip on how to avoid over-planing the bead. This comes from David Charlesworth. Scribble pencil along the top of the bead, and when it is gone, the bead is complete ... Now flip the board around to plane the groove ... The first line is where the groove begins, which is 3mm below the bead. There will follow a 1/4" groove, and there will be 4mm below this to support the groove/drawer bottom. This makes the slip a smidgeon over 12mm high. It is 10mm deep, which allows for a 5mm deep groove. As mentioned, once set up, no further marking is necessary. Just plane ... ... and then rip off the slip on the table saw. This is a mock up: the bead at the top and the groove on the side ... I have a strategy to fit the drawer fronts, so that the edges align with each other. It is all about accurate marking out. This will hinge on getting the opening exact, and transferring the respective measurements to their drawer fronts. First order of the day was to fit (what will become) drawer backs to the front between the drawer dividers. This is what the result looked like ... The table saw can cross cut really close, but only a shooting board will get the final dimension ... On to the all-important drawer fronts! I was heartened that all the verticals were indeed vertical still ... well, except for one (if you look carefully, you will see light in the top half) ... This meant a slight adjustment of that side .. again a job for the shooting board. Set one, mark the angle with a small sliding bevel ... ... transfer this to the side of the board, and head for the shooting board. As the side is no longer square, a shim is used to create the needed angle ... A good result ... This is the join I need to manage ... These are the fronts fitted in sequence ... And here were are now, waiting for the next build day ... Regards from Perth Derek
  7. 10:35AM 44° headed towards 52° The SUN is shining Not looking forward to Tuesday/Wednesday forecast. Looks like we might get a few inches of SNLUSH.
  8. Midday update: they lied about it being sunny around here. The incoming front must have sped up, because it was quite cloudy at 9:00 A. Oh well, I did have that last 4 days of sun....
  9. Today
  10. ...Talked to a ASE certified GM dealer mechanic I know. Told him the codes, and he said the following. "Check to see if the distributer shaft bushings may have went south. He stated they went to plastic bushings, and it's a common problem on the GM products, and when they go it's not uncommon for this to trigger several codes due to the misfire condition it creates."
  11. Ok folks, it sounds like life is good here. Thank you all for being here. You all are the ones carrying this place, without you all, we have nothing. I can't think of a funner and more positive group of craftsmen, artists, and tradesmen to be around and I've seen quite a few forums in the last 10 years, and I can factually say, this forum has got to be the most mature of them all, rarely do I see an ego pop up, rarely if ever do I see a negative critique appear that is based on bad feelings, and everyone is very helpful. Not to say we have not had negativity here grounded in bad feelings, but we just didn't give that the energy it craved and it naturally left our presence. The old saying, ignore it and it'll go away, well in the forum communities, it really works. Thanks again guys, and gals, we need more gals! Thanks for being here.
  12. John Morris

    Candle Box And Holders

    I still come back to this set, just to gaze, it truly is a work of art, one of my favorites all time in the craft of woodworking, I think I have told you this before right Lew?
  13. Oh yes, I forgot to mention, your photography, wonderful work! I bet @Gerald , our resident photographer would approve of your set up and lighting. Speaking of which, what did you use to shoot this?
  14. Aaron, you are an artist with many facets, I really appreciate this work you are doing. I love history, I love our American history, and I love that powder horn. The writing on it looks dead on for the time period, the font is wonderful. And of course the actual work you put into it is too. Now that rifle, what a beaut! Hey Aaron, please stick around, don't go anywhere on us, you may be pleasantly surprised, for as my own interests expand, so do our forums. For the longest time I have wanted to be involved in Muzzle Loading and the building of those rifles, and all the events, and the crafts that surround that industry, such as all the accouterments that go along with the sport/craft. So I am seriously considering the start of a new forum here on The Patriot Woodworker for Guns, and then sub categories in that forum for Black Powder and Muzzle Loaders, Building, etc etc. And for the accessories and arts such as yours that surround it all. The two disciplines of woodworking and building the Muzzle Loaders, just seem such a great fit, and not too mention we after all are "The Patriot Woodworker!" So the Scrimshaw, on the horn, you mentioned it's ink. Can you tell us what the history is behind that? What would provoke someone to write on their powder horn? Did it come from our Revolutionary days and the soldier was bored and decided to start writing on his horn? And, did they or you carve on the horns? Thanks Aaron, love this type of work, thanks for sharing.
  15. Hey Keith, this is the third or fourth topic you have suggested that book, and within those topics I have actually displayed that book as one of my bibles for this art-form. I am thinking you are not reading my topic all the way through. In this topic, if you look above, you'll see my review of the book you talk about, just raise your eyeballs above my "Gallery Album" I embedded in this original topic here on this page. Yes! That book is wonderful! It's right by my bedside along with his son's Jogge's book. Thanks again Keith for the book recommendation, for about the 5th time now. I'm laughing with ya Keith, not at ya.
  16. That's not the first time that's happened to many of us Cal, just like picking up our very first hand plane and having a horrible experience with it, mainly because it wasn't set up right and not even sharp, and many of us just say the heck with it. If you had a beautifully sharp knife made for carving for your first experience, you'd probably be carving today. Try it again Cal! This time with good tooling.
  17. aaronc

    Candle Box And Holders

    These are top-shelf work.
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