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John Moody

My First Piece of Vintage Equipment Update 5-25-13

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"Back From The Archives:OldManSmiley:"

 

Today I was at the local Sale Barn outdoor sale and spotted this old table saw still strapped to the trailer. After a short conversation with the owner I was off to get Larry's number to find out about this saw. After walking around and pondering on it I went back by. The gentleman told me it was his brothers and he was using it until just recently. I made him an offer that included delivering it to my house since I can't lift anything. Well he took and brought it by, but my help had to leave so he is bringing it back later.

 

Here it is a model TCS 203 Delta 10" tilt table saw with 6" joiner.

 

ning-img-0580-13250-87.jpg?width=750

 

The front of the joiner.

 

ning-img-0584-13250-28.jpg?width=750

 

The serial number of the joiner.

 

ning-img-0581-13250-75.jpg?width=750

 

The table saw labels.

 

ning-img-0582-13250-38.jpg?width=750ning-img-0583-13250-83.jpg?width=750

 

And the saw blade guard.

 

ning-img-0585-13250-91.jpg?width=750

 

It appears after a little looking that it was made somewhere between 1945 and 1952 but I could certainly be wrong.

 

I am looking forward to getting my shoulder back and getting started on the restoration. I am sure I will be bugging some of you for advice.

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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John,

 

We Finally Gotcha! Welcome to the Asylum!

What you have is a model number 37-595 combination unit from 1948.

Here's a link to a 1948 catalog, your combo is on page 14.

 

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=462

 

The upper blade guard (No. 1165) looks to be an earlier style model, but these were an accessory that didn't come with the saws. The saw is a model number 1160, the jointer is model number 654.

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Hey John,

 

About 30 years ago I was a proud owner of a jointer exactly like the one you just purchased. I lost it in a fire. OTHERWISE I would still be using it and have my Powermatic stuffed in storage.

 

It is a work of art. It is the only jointer I have ever used that can be set to any angle, make a cut and have it back to EXACTLY 90 degrees in less than three seconds.

 

New jointers  -  eat your collective hearts out!

 

Good buy my friend!

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Before you start disassembling it, take pictures, lots of pictures. They will aid in putting it all back together. Also, take pictures along the way as certain components are removed.

Get a GOOD penetrating oil, Kroil, PB Blaster, acetone/ATF all work well. Spray liberally and allow to soak. I use plastic zip-lock bags to keep parts organized as I remove them and label the contents with a permanent marker. It makes putting it all back together so much easier. If you go the electrolysis route to clean up the rust, remember to NOT place any non-ferrous metals in the solution. If you do, they will be gone when you return. As Larry mentioned the trunnions are pot metal and easily broken. The drive screws, little rivets holding the badges in place can be removed in a number of ways if desired. A quick search on OWWM will yield a lot of info. The paint on those badges will also wipe right off if you use acetone or lacquer thinner to clean the castings, be careful and don't ask me how I know this. You will have a lot of fun restoring the machine and welcome to the slope. 

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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Well I finally got the saw to the house and on a furniture dolly so I can roll it around. It is extremely heavy.

So the previous owner added a wood extension on the right side. I am only assuming that was not standard.

 

ning-img-0626-13282-39.jpg

 

He even left me his cross cut sled, but it was not in too good of shape. the plywood was split on the bottom.

He also had a cut out for a router in the wooden table extension.

 

ning-img-0627-13282-50.jpg

 

So I removed it today, but I did save it just in case.

 

ning-img-0639-13282-48.jpg

 

Best I could tell every thing underneath the table was in good shape. I was told a lot of these have the front trunnion cracked.

 

ning-img-0628-13282-39.jpg

 

It looked okay under the front and back. just some paint flakes or cracks on the back.

 

ning-img-0629-13282-94.jpg

 

And it looks like the table tilts good also.

 

ning-img-0631-13282-69.jpg

 

Next to check out the joiner.

 

ning-img-0633-13282-4.jpg

 

It has all three blades in it and they feel pretty sharp. But the cutter head is going to need some attention.

The fence tilts very easy and the stops seem good.

 

ning-img-0635-13282-25.jpg

 

At 45 degrees and then, the other direction.

 

ning-img-0637-13282-31.jpg

 

Back to 90 degrees and locked down.

 

ning-img-0638-13282-36.jpg

 

I'm not sure if this is the original motor. You can see there was a round logo on it at some point.

 

ning-img-0640-13282-73.jpg

 

And there is a tag on the back but I can't get down right now to look at it closely.

 

ning-img-0641-13282-52.jpgning-img-0634-13282-82.jpg

 

So there it is just waiting on me now. I have already found and acquired a few parts. I'll update and show them as they come in.

 

So you guys that have been redoing these for a long time I am open to your suggestions and your best advice on how to get started.

 

Not only did I get the rotator cuff bug, but I caught the Old Woodworking Machine bug too!

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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John,

 

It looks like your front trunnion is missing the 90 ( 0 ) degree stop, I see that quite often with these saws.

It does not affect using the saw other than having to check for 90 ( 0 ) degree alignment.

It's when the mounting ears for the table get broken that renders them unusable.

The motor you have is a Delta Milwaukee original, made for them buy Westinghouse.

Decal images are available on the VM Wiki. I also have a few that have not been posted.

(Different color schemes, motor tag numbers etc.)

The plywood table was an option, the saws shipped with the angle brackets so it could be added.

I intend to replace mine with a butcher block style table.

Don't worry the "Old Machinery" bug isn't fatal, except to maybe your wallet.

But deals can be found, and if these are bought as primary use machines can be much cheaper than buying new. They're just harder to find parts for.

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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John,

 

The stops are an integeral part of the trunnion casting, they often get cracked or snapped off.

 

Here are photos of mine, so you can see.

 

ning-100-0603-13276-9.jpg?width=721

ning-100-0604-13276-98.jpg?width=721

 

The trunnion is still usable without the stop, so it's up to you if you want to replace it.

Edited by Larry Buskirk

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