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I have been using a Woodworker II for quite a few years and it has served me well. Well almost. I returned it to the factory for sharpening and they blew it. I sent it back and they did it again. Each time they left silver solder bubbles on the teeth they replaced.  The saw blade has never been the same.

Any way my subject is;

If you was going to buy a good 10" combination table saw blade, what would it be?

Would it be thin or thick cerf?

I'd like to get it for a reasonable price too.

I paid $120 for the old one and I would like to get a nice one for a lot less. Since sharpening is costly and may not come back sharpened properly I'd rather just buy a new on

Your thoughts are appreciated

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Thin or standard kerf would depend on what type of table saw you have. If you are running a cabinet saw with 2+ HP motor, then go with a standard kerf. If you are running a contractor or hybrid saw with a motor that is less than 2 HP then go with the thin kerf. I have a Jet Contractor saw with a 1.5 HP motor and going from a full kerf blade down to a thin kerf blade made a really big different in the quality of cut, ease of cut, less burning and having to sharpen the blade less often.




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Don't buy Forrest products any more. Once not too long ago, the company was good, but since the old man passed the quality has gone to pieces. It's like there is no Quality Control the cat's away and the mice are playing

My advice is DON"T buy a thin kerf blade. They damage so easily and once warped it's all over for them. The only use for them is for the shop where thin strips are routinely cut like a Maloof style Chairmaker's shop.

But for general use thin kerfs will - of a certainty - suffer damage and your money is gone

Send your blades to Ridge Carbide for sharpening. They also produce and sell some very good blades dado etc., better than Ghudo IMO.


Blades I like include Tenru Ridge Ghudo and Felder

My favorite blades are Felder Silent Power but you probably can't use them on your machinery because the hole pattern is unique and for 30mm arbor.

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I've been using the same Shopsmith combination thin kerf for about 15 years with absolutely with no problem.  I have a few Craftsman blades and they are good too.  Shopsmith using Amana for their blades.  I have this one sharpened about 8+ years ago by a man in Texas, but I no longer have his contact information.  And, this blade that I use most often is carbide tooth.  It is very smooth finish.  

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I'm sorry that I mis-spoke.  It is not thin kerf, it is a thin blade with about 1/8" kerf.  So, the only thing touching the wood is the carbide tips as they pass through.  It really does reduce the friction.  Also, I use the plastic tubing for auto electrical wiring bundles to keep the teeth covered while not in use.  https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/holley-3913/accessories-16449/accessories---exterior-16767/exterior-lighting-16612/wire-conduit---looming-17509/8d6e1ffe96d1/holley-3-8-inch-black-convoluted-tubing/573107/5844038?q=wiring+harness+tubing&pos=47


It it something like this.  Of course, I can't find it as I can't remember the name, but it is easy to slip on and easy to remove.  And, it protects the tips when you are retrieving or storing the blade.  Of course, I also wax my blades to protect from rust and keeps off sap.  

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Good blades cost money. I just found a brand I could trust and just shop there. Usually you don't  have to ask for advice as the manufacturers state what blade does what. A little reading and understanding goes a long way...


If they offer a catalog like Amana, it specifies what does what for what..

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On 12/2/2019 at 12:22 AM, Gene Howe said:

The sharpening guy I use won't sharpen Freud blades anymore. He says their overall quality has gone downhill. Several years ago he recommended Tenryu. Great blades. 

That doesnt make sense. There blades are fine for the hobby woodworker.. I'd check with another sharpener....


I bought piranha  blades back in the day. That blade got me some funny looks from my sharpener....


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