4 questions with 1 stone

[bradleyheathhays]

Hey fellas I'm at the point where I need to finish out some of my turning tools and figured I should stop by before making the investment.  I've got a Jet 1221 VS and am looking for both a bowl coring system and Longworth chuck appropriate for my lathe.  Far as the coring system goes I'm almost settled on the One Way 12" mini system.  If there's a better system out there for a beginner like myself please mention it, but I'm fairly sure this should be the best option for ease of use.  I see they offer replacement cutter heads.  If the kit doesn't come with a carbide cutter should I go ahead and order that as well?

 

As for the Longworth chuck, I already have a Nova G3 chuck and wondering what's the least expensive but capable option I should look at for a Longworth that's compatible with my Nova G3?  Also, not being that studied up on these kind of chucks, since my lathe swing is 12" I assume any Longworth described as 12" is appropriate for my Jet.

 

Last tool question...need advice on a good sanding system, drill, pads and disks.  I get emails from the Woodturners Wonders and they're advertising two of their systems.  One angle drill driven and the other friction driven.  I'm guessing the drill is the better option?  Only issue I have with that kit is Reed Gray talks about how the softer backed pads don't do well with the lower grits, so I guess I'll have to get more parts than this kit offers.  Are the Woodturners Wonders kits worth looking into or are there better options out there?

 

Sanding kit link

 

And last, I have absolutely lucked out and found 10 good sized Walnut trees that a guy needs cut down, so if it turns out I can get this very labor intensive job done I'll have wood for a good long time to come.  Brings me to the question, what's the best way / procedures / time of year to fell a tree with the idea of keeping it's bark on through storage / drying and the turning process?  Believe I've seen winter is the best time to fell but is say November weather in Kentucky good enough or should I wait more toward late Dec or Jan?

[forty_caliber]

Lots of meat in this post and I'm not really sure where to start.  Lathe accessories add up $$ quick and the lathe ends up being one of the less expensive items. 

 

I use a Woodcut coring system and have had good results from it.  The only thing that gives me pause is that your Jet 1221 is rated at 1hp and may be a little under powered for any coring system.  https://www.amazon.com/Bowlsaver-Coring-Blanks-Woodturning-Lathe/dp/B07W457XY3

 

Check out Ron Browns Best for the longworth chuck.  I've got one of these in 14" that is pretty much retired.  A less expensive option that might work for you would be Cole jaws for your Nova Chuck.  https://www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=2&pages=1-1#p855.  I've gone to a vacuum chuck and won't ever go back to mechanical jaws for bottom finishing. 

 

I use a very similar power sanding system as the one in the link to Wood Turners Wonders and it does a great job.  The foam pad is attached with velcro to the mandrel.  Easy enough to change when they wear out or for more aggressive cutting, take off the pad and attach the sanding disk to the mandrel.  I tried out one of the inertia sanders and would have to say, don't bother. 

 

Keep us posted on what you decide.

 

Just my two cents, 

 

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[lew]

I'm not an arborist, and don't even play one on TV. I think if your idea is to turn the walnut into bowls, with the bark intact, long term storage of the logs may have the bark loosen over time. 

 

@forty_caliber's comment on the coring system, I believe, is spot on. A 1hp lathe will probably bog down.

 

A Longworth chuck typically comes with the headstock mounting matched to your lathe threads, probably 1" x 8tpi. The are used independent of your Nova Chuck. Cole jaws pretty much need to be matched to your chuck manufacturer. So I'd be looking at Nova for the correct size to fit your lathe swing (12")

 

Maybe @Gerald can add to what @forty_caliber said about vacuum chucks.

 

I use Woodturners Wonders for most of my sanding supplies. Their right angle drill and sanding pads work good for me. I made an inertia sander from instructions and parts sold by Capt. Eddie. Worked OK until I dropped it and damaged the bronze sleeve. They take a little practice to learn to use. One nice thing about them is the sand paper doesn't seem to get as hot or clog up. 

[Gerald]

Ok to start I agree with @forty_caliber and @lew Your lathe is a bit under powered for coring . Then there is the why core a 11 inch blank (about the most a 12 inch lathe will allow to fit over the banjo , if that) and maybe get a 7 inch bowl, especially with the wood you will have. Too much work for a dime.

 

Longworth can be useful. I never cared for cole jaws and gave mine away, both sets. Now as has been stated a Vaccum chuck (from Frugal Chucks) is a much better option and when you get that larger lathe (and you will) you can move the vaccum to it and not miss a step. Please post separately when ready to talk.

 

Sanding I have this kit https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/ultimate-sanding-system/products/ultimate-2-and-3-inch-sanding-kit .

Yes you may need more of the roloc pads as I did buy extra.  I have 8 2 inch and 6 3 inch. As to what he said about lower grits you do not use soft backer (roloc pads are the basic and not soft) until you get to 180 or 220. I have the random orbit sander from Ken also, air powered. My go to sander is a Ridgid JobMax, corded, may get Ken's if this one ever died.

        As to sandpaper I use Mirka Gold from TurningWood.com. It works the best and Steve has the best price of anyone.

 

Now as to the logs as Lew said the bark will usually not stay on past the next change of season. "If" you cut blanks and seal it "may" stay on. For walnut it keeps for up to 4 years best in log form, that is the wood . For natural edge just turn it soon and even then is a tossup. Even then you need to use CA on the cambium layer to help hold bark. Even years later the bark may still turn lose.  "If" you want to keep the white sapwood turn it in the first week after cutting. Oh and best time of year to cut is after the sap falls which in most areas would be late November to late February .

 

By the way this was long and for more readable answers I kinda like one question at a time. I get even more verbose then.

 

[lew]

Something else I thought of, from Woodturners Wonders. They sell a Velcro disc backer pad that can add life to your sanding pads. These are especially helpful if you are using sanding "screens" like Abranet or Wonder Weave

 

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/sanding-accessories/products/2-or-3-backer-pads-for-wonder-weave-sanding-discs

[Gerald]

@bradleyheathhays I see you also posted on AAW forum. Lots of suggestions there also. I see no response either there or here. We would like to know if we have helped and what decision you have come to.

[lew]

11 minutes ago, Gerald said:

We would like to know if we have helped and what decision you have come to.

Agreed!

[bradleyheathhays]

Forty you are absolutely not kidding on the cost of things.  Think about getting into this hobby for 2 grand....oh no no no!  I just keep praying I'm at the end of having to buy things and will see some income from this soon.

 

Yes I'm getting advice that the 1HP motor in my 1221 probably won't cut it with coring so I'll have to reconsider.  And thanks for the Ron's Best link.  I'm finding the prices there to be fairly competitive.  On the vacuum chuck option I just couldn't put out a grand for one, but Chuck TellicoTurning over at penturners.org just mentioned his home made version and estimates it cost him bt $250-300 to make.  I'm asking for more info and pictures so maybe I can duplicate what he's done.  I'd say $300 is a small price to pay for a great chuck like that.

 

lew thanks for your advice on the trees and etc.  Looks like I'm gonna have to get these down AS I can process them into bowls.  Any advice on treating logs for bugs using boron? boric acid?.  Just learning that this is an issue too when storing wood.  And I bet those backer pads you linked too would pay for themselves in no time.

 

Gerald...on the frugal vacuum chuck...enter sound of car tires screeching to a halt...Whaaaaaat?!?  A vacuum chuck for a tick above $300?  Man I thought these things were in the $1000 range.  This is a no brainer then.  Why spend $100 on a Longworth or Cole when you can add a couple hundred more (which you were gonna spend on tools anyway, right?) and get a bonafide vacuum chuck?  Are these Frugal Vac Chucks a decent quality?  I'll bet they are just sounds too good to be true.

 

Thank you for your sanding setup advice and thank you for your tree felling advice.  I'm still on a steep learning curve with all these subjects but I'm getting there one step at a time with all this great advice.  And yes without a doubt you and lew and a host of others have been a tremendous help in guiding me in all subjects wood related.  Concerning my most recent questions, I haven't made any equipment purchasing decision yet as I'm still processing all the feedback I've gotten.  A little embarassed on how many boards I post to.  Mostly I get the same kind of information from most people that respond, across different forums.  But then often I end up getting the best little snippets of advice from one forum that doesn't show up anywhere else, which is why I use this broadcast technique.  Being so new I'm soaking up all the information I can get.  Tend not to get on the net that often so I try to make the most of it when I do.  I'll keep in mind to ask questions one at a time as this was a lot to address.  Always appreciate you guys and everybody really.

[forty_caliber]

I'm running a Harrison vChuck.  Great quality and easy to setup. 

 

https://www.harrisonspecialties.com/vacuum-chucks-accessories/

 

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[lew]

4 hours ago, bradleyheathhays said:

Any advice on treating logs for bugs using boron? boric acid?

I don’t treat my turning wood but I do check for bugs before bringing into the basement. 
 

If I’m going to turn a natural edge bowl with the bark left on I’ll turn it as soon as possible after cutting. You’ll still probably need to use CA during turning to keep the bark on. 
 

For other bowls/turnings cut the tree into appropriate sized blanks and seal the end grain. I use old TiteBond glue. OR, if you are doing a lot of blanks, get a 55 gallon barrel, fill it with a 4:1 solution of water to dish washing soap (Dawn etc.) submerge the blanks in the barrel until ready to turn. 

[Gerald]

As far as treating logs if it is powder post beetles just burn it. The best way to avoid bugs is to process the logs right away. To process is to remove as much bark as you can and either turn the wood or make blanks of it. As to the soap in a barrel idea from Lew I am now experimenting with just water in a barrel. Think about all those sinker logs that have been under water for decades. 

 

By the way don't spend that money you think you will make from turning too soon. Maybe 1 in 1000 turners even make enough to pay for a good lathe (think PM at 4 to 5 k). In the last 3 years I have maybe paid for half of one of the 4 lathes I have bought , still have two.