What I wouldn't give for a good piece of ash....

[ehbowen]

Let me preface this with the fact that I've never done any wood turning. Ever. I've actually done more metal turning; while I'm no machinist I can turn a piece of hex brass into a usable pipe fitting given a little time and a South Bend lathe with a 4-jaw chuck and taper attachment.

 

In my back yard stands...excuse me, stood...a towering ash tree. As in you could see it from orbit, more or less...well, if you look at Google Earth for my home address, it covered the entire back yard. I got my first big wake-up call in June of 2019 when the first limb fell...and it was a monster. Would have killed someone had it fallen on the house; as it was, it bent the metal supports for my back porch. My tenant who rents the garage apartment expressed extreme concern, and I had the limb over that structure removed shortly thereafter. But a combination of limited resources and having been out of work for most of a year forced a postponement. Now, with this years tax refund expected, I struck a deal with my neighbor to have the tree removed. He's cutting it down, piece by piece, right now.

 

I wanted to save some of the better chunks of wood to try turning on my Shopsmith, especially if I can work up the scratch to get a speed reducer (will drop low end RPMs from 700 to 100). So he's setting aside the sound limbs that are fairly straight and between, roughly, 6" and 12" diameter. I want to try working with them, but, as I said...I've never turned any wood before.

 

This is green, having just been cut down; how long should I let it season before I attempt to work with it? What are some simple items I can try to get started? And not necessarily with the ash; I don't mind working with, say, a pen blank or similar as practice while I'm waiting for the big stuff to dry out. Any resources to recommend for a newcomer? Thanks.

[RustyFN]

If you want it to dry your best bet would be to cut it into bowl blank size pieces, cut the heart out and seal the ends. You can turn a wet piece and leave it thick. Do a rough turn and leave it around one inch thick. Put it in a cardboard box surrounded by wood shavings. I leave mine in the box for three to four months. Then I will do the finish turn, sanding and finish for the bowl. Here is a green piece of walnut I rough turned and put in the box to dry last week. It is 12” in diameter and I left it around one inch thick.

[RustyFN]

One thing I forgot to warn you about. Once you start turning bowls it will hook you bad. It seems you just can’t get enough. I would start with some smaller pieces and just have some fun and learn.

[Gerald]

The best time to turn to prevent cracking is what Rusty said NOW. What you cannot turn today seal the ends of the logs with old latex paint (at least two heavy coats), or paraffin, or Anchorseal. Store it in a cool dry place out of direct sunlight.

 

Now as to what you can turn. Bowls may be what everyone turns to but there are many simple things you can turn. Cups, weed pots, boxes, plates. And yes pens are good for newbies.

 

As to places to look for how to AAW website is a great place to start. Also on our club website https://mwt.clubexpress.com/

look under the resources tab in How To there are many articles and links to videos. Watch the Wednesday posts Lew does also for some good videos.

 

You did not ask about tools or equipment so I will only suggest if you buy get quality stuff and avoid Harbor Freight for gouges.

[Artie]

Good to see another Shopsmith’er here. Please keep us posted as I’m hoping to try turning for the very first time soon.

[ehbowen]

7 hours ago, Gerald said:

You did not ask about tools or equipment so I will only suggest if you buy get quality stuff and avoid Harbor Freight for gouges.

I have five basic turning gouges/chisels which came with the Shopsmith, but they all need to be sharpened (standard tool steel). I'm hoping that I can at least get a feel for the art with them before I invest in additional equipment. I do have a drive center and a live center, as well as a drive plate which could be screwed into a blank.

 

Thanks for the advice on getting started right away.

[ehbowen]

I just thought of a good first project: A salt and pepper mill pair. I've got the wood; where's a good source for the metal parts?

 

Edit To Add: Never mind; I found some which looked good at Lee Valley. I ordered five; I can find good homes for all of them. I've sure got plenty of wood!

Edited January 24, 2021 by ehbowen
Add a thought.

[lew]

5 hours ago, ehbowen said:

I just thought of a good first project: A salt and pepper mill pair. I've got the wood; where's a good source for the metal parts?

 

Edit To Add: Never mind; I found some which looked good at Lee Valley. I ordered five; I can find good homes for all of them. I've sure got plenty of wood!

Here's another site that usually has some pretty nice kits-

https://chefwarekits.com/

[FlGatorwood]

The Shopsmith does start at 750 rpm, but that is a great starting speed for spindle work such as pepper mills and pens.  After you get it roughed in, you can  speed up to about E or F.  To sand, turn it back down to A, the starting speed.  If you plan on turning large bowls, you can feel safer with the speed reducer.  Continue to check on eBay and Etsy for an estate sale.  

[Gerald]

Now you just have to figure a way to sharpen those gouges. From what you said I am guessing they are carbon steel and not HSS. Carbon steel will lose temper if it gets too hot, so keep the water handy for cooling unless you have a slow speed grinder. Lew gave you one of the best places for kits

[ehbowen]

11 hours ago, Gerald said:

Now you just have to figure a way to sharpen those gouges. From what you said I am guessing they are carbon steel and not HSS. Carbon steel will lose temper if it gets too hot, so keep the water handy for cooling unless you have a slow speed grinder. Lew gave you one of the best places for kits

Actually, I have a WorkSharp 3000 that I haven't even finished setting up yet! Think that should do the trick?

They look to be the original set of lathe tools that came with the ShopSmith when it was new in 1980.

[Gerald]

That should do the sharpening with less heat. I am not familiar enough to tell you it can sharpen all gouges. I think it requires an extra jig for turning tools unless you plan on had sharpening without a jig which take a while to learn,

[lew]

A couple of ideas for what you can do with your sharpener. I have the original Tormek system and their accessories make for easy sharpening.

 

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/using-tormek-gigs-on-work-sharp-3000.39581/

 

http://www.stumpynubs.com/worksharp-accessories.html

[FlGatorwood]

For several decades, Shopsmith has suggested using 120 grit sandpaper on their sanding disk. Then they have a guide to use to sharpen the gouges on the turning sandpaper.  https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/sh_sharpeningguide.htm

 

I don't know if this has to do with the metal or convenience of unskilled users.  

[HandyDan]

Most use the Tormek bar with the Work Sharp 3000.