ehbowen Posted August 24, 2020 Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) I have two non-standard size door openings in the back of my garage, one into the garage itself and one into a storage space under a stairwell. For a number of reasons re-framing the doors to accommodate a standard size is a non-starter. I did find one company which promised to custom-fit a solid core door to the garage opening; I ordered it and installed it two years ago. The other opening, however, they said that they couldn't do anything about unless I wanted to order a hollow-core interior door. I said, "No, thanks"; it would never have held up. So that one is still open. Turns out, though, that being on the north side of the home ("blue northers", winter cold fronts/thunderstorms, are infamous in Texas) with no overhang whatsoever above it and a concrete walkway in front, it's been getting a lot of splash at the bottom. Enough to where, just two years later, the door is falling apart (and, BTW, I discovered in the process that this "solid core exterior door" is particle board surrounded on all six sides by a wrapper of hardboard ). I want to build my own doors. Nothing too fancy; I'm still new at this. What I have to work with is the Shopsmith, a Craftsman table saw, a 5x9 foot work table which once held a model railroad layout, and a few attachments for the Shopsmith including a molder head, dadoes (stacked and wobble), router chuck with a basic set of bits, and shaper chuck with (currently) three cutters. I've also got basic hand and power tools including a couple of circular saws, hand drills, reciprocating saw, etc. I'd like to build something which will hold up to weather (when properly preserved, of course) and last for a good long time. Suggestions as to where to turn to for information and instructions? Edit To Add: Forgot to mention two recent additions which could also be important assets: I have picked up the 4" jointer attachment for the Shopsmith and a Dewalt DW734 benchtop planer. Edited August 24, 2020 by ehbowen Cal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal Posted August 24, 2020 Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 What size are these doors Eric? I have not built any doors, so cannot help you on this. I (thought) that I had a similar situation with our back door. It was I think a 30" interior hollow core closet door. And of course it didn't hold up very well None of the big boxes carried a steel door in that size and I was about to give up and put another hc closet door back on when I asked my go-to lumber store. They had them, in steel clad, in stock. Give them a few days and they put in a lite for me and bingo, problem solved. Is there any way to put an awning up over the door to alleviate some of the water issues? HARO50 and Gunny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Howe Posted August 24, 2020 Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) First, figure what you want for an exterior surface. On my shop, I used 1/2" T-1-11. I did not put on an interior surface. I had the jamb space so, I used 2X4s for the frame and cross bucked them between the framework. One lateral in the middle and Xs top and bottom. I used lap joints for the frame and mitred the Xs to fit. The exterior panel was glued to the frame. Been there over 20 years. Still in good shape. The width of your jamb will dictate the thickness of your exterior surface and your frame materials. Finally, I gave the door a good coat of primer and a few coats of oil based color. BTW, you might consider a metal transom with a rubber seal. We get so little rain so, I didn't bother. Edited August 24, 2020 by Gene Howe Gunny, HARO50 and Cal 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunny Posted August 24, 2020 Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 Others will have different approach but here is something to chew on. I made two doors for a exterior closet on my deck. They are non standard height at 6 ft even and 31 inches wide. These are hollow core but with much more bracing than a typical store bought hollow core door. Those only have wood frame along outside edge and cardboard filler to keep the thin layers of plywood from collapsing. Below is a picture of both door frames. Notice the circled areas. These are where a door knob can be mounted. I made sure it didn't matter which door I used or which side those areas would have support for the handles. The rest is framed up and screwed together. Once this was done I glued a 1/8 sheet of plywood to front. Then flipped over and put insulate panels inside the hollow portions and glued the back on. Not a solid core door but much better than a hollow core and custom fit. You could route a channel inside the frame as circled below and insert a 3/4 plywood panel. Once I assembled this part I glued 1/4 inch pieces to the sides covering the screws and the edge of the plywood sealing it against weather. Once done I primed with oil base primer then painted. Did both inside and outside. HARO50, Cal and JimM 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post lew Posted August 24, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 Here's an episode of the New Yankee Workshop- Plans are available from- https://www.newyankee.com/product/entrance-door/ DuckSoup, Gunny, Cal and 2 others 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Howe Posted August 24, 2020 Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 Nice door, Lew! Cal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HandyDan Posted August 24, 2020 Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 Keeping the water off your exterior door with an awning or an aluminum storm door will make it last forever. The awning keeps you dryer too. HARO50, Cal, ehbowen and 1 other 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post HandyDan Posted August 24, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) Lap joints would make a strong frame. Take the frame down to a metal fab shop and get them to bend a sheet of aluminum into a pan for the outside skin. For sure you would have a life time door that could withstand the weather. Edited August 24, 2020 by HandyDan ehbowen, Gunny, Cal and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehbowen Posted August 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 6 hours ago, HandyDan said: Lap joints would make a strong frame. Take the frame down to a metal fab shop and get them to bend a sheet of aluminum into a pan for the outside skin. For sure you would have a life time door that could withstand the weather. That's an excellent idea. We have some long-time friends in the custom metal fabrication business. My biggest concern with that is making sure that the door is sized properly before the aluminum skin is added because it'll be difficult to plane or alter it afterwards. HARO50 and Cal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunny Posted August 25, 2020 Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 1 minute ago, ehbowen said: My biggest concern with that is making sure that the door is sized properly before the aluminum skin is added Do a complete dry fit. To include hinges installed and door handle with deadbolt if you are using one. Once you are happy with the dry fit take to get a skin made. Then all you have to do is drill out the holes for the handle and deadbolt. This is picture of dry fit to check level, and fit to frame. Once this was correct I added handles then on to finishing. HARO50, ehbowen, Cal and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehbowen Posted August 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 13 hours ago, Cal said: What size are these doors Eric? The storage area door under the stairs would need to be 32" wide by 79" high, opening to the outside. The door into the garage itself is 36" wide (actually, 36-1/4" would be better!) by 79" high. Gunny and Cal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Gunny Posted August 25, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 (edited) Another option is to put a thin skin of Diamond plate on either all or part of the doors. These doors are 24 years old and also custom size. Windows are stock from the borg, with a similar frame as the closet doors. Pressure treated lumber at the bottom. Had them off to install the diamond plate and paint them. Minor damage from wear and tear. Put the diamond plate on to protect against things getting bumped into them that can impale the 1/8 thick skin. Also added the cut offs as kick plates on inside. Lots of options. I came across the diamond plate while helping a friend move. Not hard to cut and a carbide blade and a circular saw. Just mark the blade as never to be used for anything but to cut metal. Edited August 25, 2020 by Gunny JimM, ehbowen, HARO50 and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal Posted August 25, 2020 Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 I am a little confused Eric. Both doors are standard size. This is from the current Therma Tru catalog, steel door section: HARO50 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimM Posted August 25, 2020 Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 54 minutes ago, Cal said: I am a little confused Eric. Both doors are standard size. This is from the current Therma Tru catalog, steel door section: I was wondering about that. In my time at the BORG millwork dept, the software could create a custom size door in many styles. Of course, they were pricey and, what fun is that? Cal, HARO50 and Gunny 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehbowen Posted August 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 With my current income level, "pricey" is a non-starter... Gunny, HARO50 and Cal 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehbowen Posted August 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 17 hours ago, Cal said: I am a little confused Eric. Both doors are standard size. This is from the current Therma Tru catalog, steel door section: 'Fraid I didn't see that catalog when I was searching for door replacements after Hurricane Harvey. Might consider it, but I still think I'd prefer to do it myself now just for the practice. Gunny, HARO50 and Cal 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tomp Posted October 21, 2020 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 21, 2020 The video by Norm is an excellent primer on building an exterior door without the use of fancy (expensive) rail and stile cutter sets. Regardless of the method of construction or materials used, weatherproofing the face and bottom is critical to long life. Here is an article from the UK showing methods of protecting the door bottom. Weatherproofing Exterior Door Gunny, lew, Cal and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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