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Got a few minutes today.  The question now is how to transfer the pattern to the wood.  A few ways to do this. 

 

You can make a second paper copy and tape it down with double sided tape.

 

Or, you can draw this onto some very soft wood or cardboard which you tape to the face of the box with double sided tape 

 

Or, you can do an old transfer method that I learned in 1973 in my apprenticeship in Graphic Arts.  It has been used long before the founding of our dear country.  So, I'll show my training.  First, put some children's sidewalkl chalk on the back side of the pattern.  You want a color that will show up on the wood.  Here is the pattern.

 

 

pattern A.jpg

 

Turn it over and mark the major areas with the contrasting color chalk.

 

 

pattern chalked.jpg

 

Here it is transferred to the wood.

 

 

pattern transferred.jpg

 

Now, I'll trace this with a pencil so it will show during sawing.  Ready for the bandsaw.  

 

 

pattern redrawn.jpg

 

Maybe, the rain will play nice tomorrow and I'll show some progress.  I hope that this encourages you to give this a try.  

Edited by FlGatorwood

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WOW! Gonna be a fantastic project.

 

We have a dogwood tree in our back yard that I transplanted in 1969, from my parents mountain property. I hope that it will last as long as I do. Never realized they were susceptible to borers. I'll need to keep an eye on it just in case. Thanks for the warning. 

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Really gotta give you credit Steve, working with the reciprocating saw to cut the log has really got to be a challenge. My 14" bandsaw really makes things a lot easier all around. I found that using a spray glue to attach the paper pattern works for me as long as I'm working with a flat surface If it doesn't want to pull off later I sand it off with a ROS. When I print the patterns I normally print 3 copies, just for insurance. Looks like you salvaged a nice piece of the dogwood.

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Ok, got a couple hours yesterday.  Drats, foiled again.  It is too big to fit the Shopsmith bandsaw.  I had to remove 1/4" from the back, but how?  So, I set up the sanding disk that you have seen already.  So, we'll skip any boring pictures.  Gotta get a picture or two up.   

prepforbandsaw.jpg

 

And, now for the magical mystery tour.  Yep, it fits.  So, this will be a very slow cut so as not to break a blade.  We'll see.......

 

themagic starts.jpg

 

Will be back in a few days.  Have a palm tree downed in the back yard.  It needs to be pruned and moved to the front for garbage pickup.  

Edited by FlGatorwood

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Have run into that before and just changed blades.  Always fun.  For a long term fix I bought a 10 inch Rikon Bandsaw and put a smaller blade on it for such work.  Downside, the circle cutting jig I made for the Jet 14 inch Bandsaw in no way shape of form will fit to the 10 inch Rikon, so still have to change blades once and awhile.  Guess I need a another full size one.

 

Yeah right and where am I going to put that?????? Says the other half of my mind.  Never mind pay for it.  :o

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Gents, and ladies, I cheat.  Yep.  I have 2 machines and each came with a bandsaw.  I had to rework one, but it works great enough to do the work I need to do.  First one is the machine I got that was in excellent condition, barely used.  The second one had been mistreated.  Notice the tables and guards and you can tell these are 2 different machines.  Swap out, 10 seconds.  It takes almost that long to apply the tension to the band.  I always relax the tension on the blades as a weakness of the Shopsmith bandsaw is if the tension remains on the blade over a long period of time, the top tire gets a bit twisted and it won't apply the tension sufficiently.  

 

 

band saw A.jpg

 

Also, notice the blade sizes.  I used the bottom one for the next step.

 

 

band saw B.jpg

 

Al, I am sorry that I forgot to make a comment about the recip saw.  I use it so that the point/end of the blade never or rarely goes into the wood.  After angling it, the uncut wood is down to a diamond shape and then you can normally put the blade all the way in and get a nice cut.  Thank you for your support.  

 

 

back removed.jpg

 

Back is off.  1/4" thickness for the back board.  Now, it is time to change out the band saw again to the smaller blade.  In just a few seconds, I'll be back in business.  

 

 

 

ready to cut drawers.jpg

 

Another adventure in this magical mystery tour.  Here you have to ensure that the blade is lined up accurately for cutting out the drawers now that the back is removed.  

Edited by FlGatorwood

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The cedar has been drying for 16 years and the dogwood has been drying for 3 or 4 years.  I thought that most of the stress would be gone by now, but take a look at the kerf.  

 

kerfclosed.jpg

 

It closed so tightly on this little saw blade that I could not get it out.  You can see on the dogwood that I tried to pry it apart to ease the tension on the blade.  Not going to happen.  

 

 

bladeandboxremoved.jpg

 

Blade removed and finally got the blade back from the box.  It takes less time to put on a blade than to get this out.  Blade checked and still looks good.  Going to buy a couple more for back up.  

 

 

drawersremoved.jpg

 

Carcass after the drawers are cut out and removed.  Yep, we made it together.  

 

 

another angle of drawers.jpg

 

Next up will be sanding and putting the back onto the carcase.  After that we will play with drawers.  Then it will be sanding for a couple of days.  Hope this is not too boring.  

Edited by FlGatorwood

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