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Follow up on sealant for turned mugs


Lissa Hall

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So a while back I asked the question, "what can seal turned mugs that is good to use for both hot and cold beverages?"  After quite a bit of research and asking around, I think I have found the answer. You guys feel free to correct me if I am wrong g or sharing wrong information. The answer actually came by a person who turns mugs for renfairs (probably didn't spell that right.) He said "Brewer's Pitch" I did more research to see if this was correct and everything I found said it was. ( we are talking about internet so... please feel free  to correct me.  I ordered a pound worth of this stuff from the specific site which was about 30 dollars. Turns out it is basically pine resin/pitch. So now  being me I am thinking self can't you just make your own as I am surrounded by pines. Lol maybe i will. I am all for  learning new things especially things that our ancestors practiced.

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The Brewers Pitch is made from pine resin and is supposed to add a woody flavor to beer stored in kegs lined with it.  Let us know about the drinking experience after you do a mag.  Pine scent can last a long time.  You wouldn't your drink to smell like Pine-sol cleaner.:P

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I am sensitive to foul odors..  Back when I was a firefighter in Lubbock I drove the lead out wagon with a wheel in the passengers seat for lots of years and a few blocks from the fire if the wind was pushing the smoke towards us, the passenger sitting over there with his white hat on would keep asking me what was burning, whats burning. Things like a pot of beans, red beans in texas talk, pinto beans to all the other states, left on the stove too long and all the water had boiled away the burnt beans would leave a terrible distinct odor and if that was all that was burning then he could radio the other fire stations to turn around and go back to the station... I don't know what that has to do with your post but I think I would use a wood that doesn't have a strong odor to start with... like maple...and maybe it would not need sealing except with some tong oil , whups that has an odor also, and thinking about pine, I think is has an odor to start with and I would not want a mug built with pine so no I would not want a mixture consisting of anything to do with pine. Your mixture might taste like taking a live pine needle and chewing it up so before you go  and turn something on the lathe,  at least grab a pine needle from somewhere  and chow down on it for a while. 

  This is my way of thinking so maybe thinking for a few minutes might save you extra work...

Lissa, how is your intarsia puppies coming along. I have more suggestions on saving time preparing the wood before scroll sawing it... 

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Hey Lissa, I'm not ready to buy the pine pitch idea, I can only imagine the after taste that would leave, perhaps not I don't know, since I have never used it, but I have gotten a mouth full of pine pitch and it's pretty nasty.

You are embarking on an area of Green Woodworking (I know you are not green woodworking but the finishing is the same) now as far as finishing for consumables, I have not turned or carved a cup or mug yet, (kuksa cup). But when I do I am going to use the advice of green woodworkers around the world and it involves flaxseed oil, or raw linseed oil, not BLO, but raw linseed oil, or walnut oil, or a mineral oil/bees wax solution.

For the spoons I have been carving (and a cup when I do) it's recommended to soak the spoon in flax seed oil for two weeks, let the oil soak in really nice, then let dry two weeks, but that is just too long for my patience, so I have purchased "Tried and True" and I've coated my spoons with it and it's wonderful. Wipe on wipe off, let cure for 12 hours or more, buff with 0000 wool, then repeat till you get the desired sheen. It's natural, and easy to apply.

 

Tried and True site at:

https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/danish-oil/

 

Tried and True would be great for cups and mugs too.

 

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Thank you for all the input. I do drink on is needle tea regularly now. It helps me from getting so sick from colds which usually turn into pneumonia. Pine needle tea has been great for me health wise and is one of the highest vitamin c levels there is including the good ole oj. My system can't fight them like others do. That being said I suppose I have gotten used to the taste. I am pretty sure the epoxy will work as well, but hey nothing tried nothing learned.  I turned a little mug to test it on and all I can say is we will see how it turns out. A friend of mine has a mug sealed with brewers pitch and though he has had it a while there is no smell or taste.. I will  post what I can as far as follow ups. The brewers pitch can withstand both hot and cold which what we were searching for. We will see. I do value all the input and will save in case experiment becomes a big flop lol.

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1 hour ago, Lissa Hall said:

Gerald can you share the link or whatever you were reading? I don't know how to tag people 

 

@Gerald

 

22 hours ago, Gerald said:

Looks like it is used for caulking barrels and hidebound tankards. Makes for some very interesting reading. On reading birch/pine pitch Brewers Pitch was removed from the market and now use a epoxy resin.

Hidebound

Lissa CLICK on hidebound  that is the link

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So  pine resin is  messy. Honestly not sure I will use it again. But due to determination I will finish experimental cup with it just to see how things work out. It is difficult to get smooth coating as it can not be brushed on in any manner and hardens quickly. Just posting my findings. Still stuck on if there is anything on market that can do both hot and cold beverages. There seems to be a product but sellers will not give up their secret..

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I would try to find something that is good at penetrating the wood fibers.  I use Minwax wipe on poly for a lot of things.  It is thin and I find that if I slathering the first coat on goes a long way for less additional coats.  I have seen the poly actually bleed through the piece from the inside to the outside through the end grain.  I try to get the piece to wet shine all over while doing the first coat.  It is hard to do since it so easily soaks into the wood.  Once I have a wet shine i just let it dry.  When dry there is usually no shine because the wood has soaked up the finish.  What I feel is that if you get a finish to soak deep into the wood and cure then the liquid should be repelled.  The only real cure would be to add a liner kit from Woodcraft of other dealer.

 

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Lissa, the reality is, there really is nothing suitable for finishing wood that will hold hot liquids. Any finish is going to impart a taste or flavor, however minute, from the heat of the liquid and the finish will break down faster than if the mug was used for cold liquids only.

All you can really do is look for a food safe finish, and use them, and maintain the cup or mug by wiping it with the finish every now and then.

Beeswax finish is ok, so is the finish I recommended above, Tried and True. I've heard of folks using that finish for butcher blocks you can by at your Home Depot or where ever, on turned mugs and cups.

My opinion is to finish the mugs with a food safe finish, and just maintain the mug, perhaps re-wipe every other month.

 

 

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The book I have been reading by Jogge Sundqvist mentions that he finishes all his spoons and knifes, and any wooden ware that he carves by soaking it in cold pressed flaxseed oil for two weeks, then let cure for two weeks. Just another way of doing things.

One of the areas of carving I want to do is the Kuksa Cup, it is carved for holding hot liquids, perhaps we do a search on how to finish a Kuksa Cup, I'll look around.

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